I bet you barely knew that I was away for Christmas! I had left a whole lot of stories to publish while we were enjoying a combined family Christmas in the Blue Mountains with my family, my husband’s family with a visit from my husband’s aunt and her family. I adore the Blue Mountains,there are so many areas to see, lots of great food to eat and almost as importantly there are fabulous shops, just try and keep me out of the Leura shops.

But where oh where does one go after 5pm in Leura once the shopping is done and the arms and legs are weary? Apparently nowhere else but Cafe Bon Ton as everywhere else is shut! I was more than happy to revisit Cafe Bon Ton, having had a good meal here a few years ago and as fate would have it, its the only place open at 5.15pm. They’re setting up for dinner but coffee and cake are fine. Its cold, particularly outside considering the season, so we’re just happy to be inside.

I ask which cakes are made on the premises as I want to try something that can’t have elsewhere, the waitress is not quite sure so I choose the cake that looks vaguely homemade that I haven’t seen before, the Chocolate Cherry cake ($8.50) and a coffee ($3.30), and Blythe chooses a petite Manna from Heaven lemon polenta biscuit ($4.90) and a coffee ($3.30).

The service is a little abrupt as she is eager to get back to setting up but this means that our cakes, sliced in front of us and garnished with whipped cream and coffees come out in an instant.

Chocolate and cherry cake $8.50

The chocolate cake, not the most photogenic or alluring looking proves that substance triumphs over style. A rich gooey chocolate inner sits atop the hazelnut sponge base while a layer of sweet crunchy meringue like topping finishes it off. Its a huge slice and for $8.50 you’d really want it to be. I am not certain where the cherries come into play as I can’t taste any at all, perhaps they’re there just to provide moistness as I can vaguely see some cherry colour in the chocolate but nevertheless its good and big and rich enough to feed two.

Manna from Heaven lemon polenta cake $4.50

The Manna from Heaven lemon polenta cake is always a favourite for me. I buy these from DJ’s where I think they’re $3.50 each. Its for the lemon curd lovers who love their cakes moist, lemoney and petite which includes me. Blythe finds it too lemoney for her taste, she’s not a lemon curd lover after all. Strength returned we return to the lodge!

Cafe Bon Ton

192 The Mall, Leura, The Blue Mountains
Tel +61 (02) 4782-4377
http://www.bonton.com.au/
Breakfast and Lunch
7 Days a Week
8.30am - 4.00pm
Dinner 7 Nights
From 6.00pm

Ahh the humble sausage. Maligned for years for being a “poor person’s food” it enjoyed a resurgence in the last few years complete with a makeover with more exciting fillings (roast duck, chicken & camembert, venison & beetroot) along with the debut of the Chorizo, the debutante of the sausage world. The first time I tried these was years ago at a function where they served pan fried slices with a tangy tomato sauce. The chorizo is one of the reasons I could never become a vegetarian. So when a Croatian born brother in law requested some dry smoked Chorizo for a Christmas present, I knew that not just any kind would do, it would have to be from Eumundi Smokehouse which was raved about in the SMH and in the SBS eating Guide to Sydney.

With the oddest opening hours it took me a good three weeks before I could find a time to get there. Once you’re there, the sweet smokey smell draws you to the shop. Its a little touch of Europe in the middle of Dulwich Hill with sausages hanging from displays in every conceivable shape and form. The staff are very friendly and happy to discuss their products and patient when it comes to choosing. The dry smoked sausages are $4 each and there are a total of 26 different products from dry smoked sausages to fresh ones and many feature alcohol to help preserve them but also give them a distinctive taste.

We purchase 4 chorizos (pork, chili, basil, onion, mint and coriander), 2 Russian Farmers sausages (coarsely ground pork with dill, caraway, parsley, onion and vodka) 2 Kasana (lean pork with James Squire’s Porter) and 1 Polish Kielbasa (lean pork with garlic, marjoram and vodka). Fresh sausages have a variety of filling from venison & beetroot, lamb merguez, basil and garlic Italian, chicken and leek, chicken and white wine with tarragon. There are also fabulous looking double smoked bacon rashers (carved that day), smoked organic chickens with vodka and juniper berries, and smoked duck breast with a dijon and herb crust. We’re advised to keep our sausages in paper as plastic makes sausages sweat, affecting their flavour and shortening their lifespan.

Chorizos (pork, chili, basil, onion, mint and coriander) $4 each

From left to right: Kasana, Polish Kielbasa and Russian Farmers sausages

We can’t wait to get home and try these beauties. They are distinguished using different string and we slice up a Chorizo, Russian Farmers and a Kasana. Slicing them, its evident from the different herbs and grinds that each one is distinct. The grind in the Russian Farmers is indeed coarser than the other two and the fresh dill is evident in its green speckling.

Top to bottom: Chorizo, Russian Farmers and Kasana

Pan frying them up in a dry pan, we taste each one. The Chorizo is wonderfully smokey and my husband’s favourite with a touch of spice, although one would never call it spicy or hot. The Russian Farmers is my favourite, I adore dill and its heady in dill and caraway although my husband doesn’t like the coarse grind as much while it doesn’t bother me at all. The Kasana is the second favourite for both of us, if it was a girl at a party, it would be the cheerleader, not the most exotic or most unusual girl but with a flavour that almost everyone would enjoy, the one that everyone would be happy to have on their arm.

Left to right: Chorizo, Russian Farmers and Kasana

They’re incredibly meaty which may sound silly but at Eumundi, they say they never add water or fillers which a lot of sausages contain. Its pure unadulterated meat we’re talking about here. I fry up the sausages and improvise a creamy vodka penne, recipe following tomorrow, one of my husband’s favourite pasta dishes.

Eumundi Smokehouse Sydney

402 New Canterbury Road
Dulwich Hill
TEL: 95690205.
Open Thu-Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 7am-2pm.

Such subtle signage, such an awesome reputation. Claude’s fourth owner Chui Lee Luk, a former lawyer, is now at the helm of Claude’s. Counting down to the days, there was anticipation in the air but this was tempered by reading reviews prior to our visit. Reviews were mixed, with many diners complaining of over salting and other culinary crimes.

Its 7.30pm, the time of the first booking and we press the doorbell. Its like knocking on a friend’s house who has a function catered by staff. The room itself is small (there is another room upstairs) and rather like a blank canvas. Cream walls, dim lighting and Limoges plates with Napoleon’s crest line the two side walls. And aside from the chairs and tables that’s about it in the way of decor.

Service is friendly, deferential, polite and unpretentious. Soon after we’re sipping our very lightly carbonated imported Mineral water (Haddon from England) and perusing the menu. Its degustation only tonight so there isn’t much in the way of choosing which makes it all very easy. The menu is a tantalising sounding mix of French and Asian influences.

Amuse Bouche: walnut and mushroom tart

Our first morsel of the evening arrives, a small amuse bouche of walnut and mushroom tart. Petite and melt in the mouth buttery, its delicious and perfectly balanced.

Smoked Salmon consommé with chive and fennel pastry

Our first course surprising arrives very soon after, the Smoked Salmon consommé. I love smoked salmon and this frothy creamy consommé is very much like smoked salmon but its too heady in scent for me and I take a few sips and pass my espresso cup onto Blythe. It seems that they’ve taken the criticism of over-salting to heart as we need to add salt to the consommé. The light pastry with chive and fennel on top is delicious and paper thin.

Green Papaya salad with ocean trout

Our next course arrives, its simply described as Green Papaya Salad on the menu but its so much more than that. A slice of seared ocean trout sits next to pieces of Andoiue, which is a pork tripe sausage while the green papaya salad is sprinkled with finely chopped hazelnuts. Again this dish needs salt added to it and its interesting although the sausage is strong when compared to the subtle taste of the ocean trout perhaps overpowering it.

Deep fried soft shell crab, spannercrab custard with sago

Our next dish, soft shell crab in rose petal dressing arrives. Its sitting alongside a spanner crab custard which is topped with sago. The custard is peppery and eggy, much like a peppery Japanese chawanmushi. The soft shell crab is mixed with greens and the rose petal dressing, although delicious, isn’t particularly rose petal-ey.

As the restaurant fills the gaps between courses become larger and the rest of the courses come out with a larger space between them. Curiously, during the night, the lights become brighter and dimmer which is a little disorientating. The music is also very quiet but as we’re sitting beneath the speakers, we notice that the track “Thais” by Massnet is played on loop and repeated over and over again.

Blue eyed cod with deep fried squid and sorrel with a curry sauce

The next dish is described as “Whitefish, squid & sorrel”-more specifically, its Blue eyed cod with a spiced curry brandy sauce with deep fried squid. On the left, the finely ground green powder comprises of curry leaves and cashews pounded to a fine powder. The sauce is based on the Indian soup Mulligatwaney. Its good when the green crystallised powder is mixed in with the rest of the dish, doing a similar job to salt.

Aylesbury duck with kibbeh

Our second last savoury dish is the Aylesbury duck, a Queensland duck bred from the Aylesbury duck and Peking duck to give it a fatty layer. Accompanying this is a large kibbeh which is filled in the centre with dark duck meat and almonds and alongside this is a bitter braised endive. The seville orange sauce imparts a slight tart bitterness to the duck but the delectable kibbeh is soft, moist and flavoursome, the centre a concentration of the lovely duck flavour with some sweetness from the almonds. Its my favourite dish by far.

Fillet of Angus beef with cauliflower and horseradish puree

The last of the savoury dishes arrives, titled simply “Fillet of Angus Beef”. It is a slender cut of beef, cooked medium rare, folded over and filled with daikon, shimeji and king oyster mushrooms and intensely flavoured intercostals (the meat between the ribs) that have been marinated in red wine jus and resemble thinly sliced black truffles. The intercostals and king oyster mushrooms are particularly good, the mushrooms having an almost sashimi like texture. Its served with a creamy horseradish and cauliflower puree which is thankfully very mild on the horseradish. Its a little runnier than I might have liked, if it were less runny it would’ve been good to help soak up the lovely juices from the beef.

Avocado Blancmange with white cherries

Its 9.30pm and we’re asked whether we’d like a break before our desserts but time beckons and we throw caution to the wind and go straight for it. The Avocado blancmange is a soft quivering variation of creme caramel and is distinctly avocado flavoured. The one that I don’t photograph is actually falling to pieces its so soft and I am a little bewildered that they would have sent it out of the kitchen looking less than perfect. Indeed some of the dishes that we’ve received tonight are off centre on the plate or in need of a bit of a tidy up. In any case, the taste is delicious and the white cherries, soaked in a sugar and brandy syrup are also divine.

Pineapple soufflé with brandy cream and fresh mango

By now I’ve hit my wall and I don’t know if I can eat any more. But before I know it, the copper tinned pineapple soufflé hits the table, hot to the touch and I am asked to make a hole in the centre with my spoon where they pour in brandy cream and spoon over some diced fresh mango. The sugar on the top and sides has caramelised and is delicious, the inside of the soufflé is less sweet but beautifully airy and the pineapple flavour is very subtle.

Madeleines with lime tea syrup

After ordering tea with petit fours (icing sugar dusted madeleines with lime tea syrup), our friendly waiter having taken note of the relentless flash fires from my camera throughout the evening, asks if we would like to go upstairs to meet the chef, she is working but we could always go up and say hello. We venture up the narrow staircase where Chui is busy spooning souffles and warming up madeleines. We have a quick chat and she asks us which dishes we enjoyed. Blythe asks her about the mix of cultures along with the French cuisine but Chui strongly dislikes the term fusion as she says that it implies a fundamental lack of understanding of the cuisine. She’s busy and we feel like we’re intruding so we thank them for the meal and go back downstairs to the now dimly lit room to partake of the tea dipped madeleines and tea to the strains of what else but Thais by Massnet, of course. Its certainly an unusual space and an unusual chef.

Claude’s Restaurant

10 Oxford Street, Woollahra
+61 (02) 9331 2325
Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 7.30pm - late.
Three courses $135; tasting menu $165; wine flight $85; corkage $15 per bottle.

This has got to be one of my favourite cereals, not only for its gloriously nutty and crunchy taste but also for its nutritional benefits. Without meaning to bore you with the boring health details, the fact is that it is incredibly low in fat (the only fat being what is in the nuts and seeds), its also full of those fabulous seeds sunflower and sesame as well as being made up primarily of rolled oats which are also very good for your health. The most important part though, the taste, is more delicious than anything muesli you’ll ever buy (I always find the untoasted ones dry and the toasted ones are sprayed in oil). You can customise it to have the nuts and fruit of your desire (I sometimes add pepitas) or even make a chocolate and peanut version. It can also be made into breakfast muffins so there’s really no excuse not to try it.

NQN’s cranberry, macadamia and yogurt coated berry version

Nigella suggests using dried cherries but I would also recommend adding dried sweetened cranberries or craisins or even, for a real indulgence, some yogurt coated sultanas and macadamia nuts along with the dried cranberries. My husband loves this granola topped with thick yogurt and a drizzle of honey instead of milk. I couldn’t resist making this Christmas-ey looking granola for our big Christmas get together. Is there even such a thing as Christmas granola?

I find that buying the big 500g or 1kg bags of sesame or sunflower seeds makes it much easier to make this often. I also omit the oil completely, I don’t think it suffers from leaving it out at all and instead of using apple sauce, I use apple juice, just because we always have apple juice and it makes it crunchier whereas the apple sauce leaves it a little softer.

NQN’s cranberry, macadamia and yogurt coated berry version

Andy’s Fairfield Granola

This is an extraordinary bonus from my last book, in the sense that while I was on tour in the States to promote Forever Summer, I did a signing in a borders in Fairfield Connecticut and just behind the bookshop was a deli called The Pantry. Well I can never buy enough, don’t even know what that would mean: I always leave any food shop with about five shopping bags, even when I know I’m going on a transatlantic flight the next day. So I shlepped home with tags of good things to eat, including (and probably illegally, I’m afraid) several tons of their granola. I got so anxious about the prospect of finishing even that copious supply that I phone for the recipe-it happens to be only the best granola you’ll ever taste in your life-and Andy Rolleri supplied it, for which I am enormously grateful. Every time I’ve given this to people, they’ve asked for the recipe and have gone on to make it at home. That can only be a good sign.

You may think that making your own breakfast cereal is a strange way to go about life and certainly I’d never have thought I’d be the kind of person who does this, but the only big deal here is the shopping-the actual making is incredibly easy-and even there, don’t be daunted by the length of the ingredients list. It means one big sortie to a health food shop and then you’ve got the goods to make this again and again. I love having a big jar of it in the kitchen, to eat with milk for breakfast, over yogurt and frizzled with honey late at night, or as it is, by the grasped handful, any time I pass the jar.

Makes 2.5 litres

Ingredients

• 450g rolled oats
• 120g sunflower seeds
• 120g white sesame seeds
• 175ml apple sauce (I use apple juice)
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp ginger
• 120g brown rice syrup or rice malt syrup or failing that golden syrup (I use golden syrup)
• 4 tablespoons runny honey
• 100g light brown sugar
• 250g whole natural almonds
• 1 tsp. sea salt
• 2 tbsp. sunflower oil (I don’t bother adding this)
• 300grams raisins

1. Mix everything (except the raisins) together very well in a large mixing bowl. I use a couple of curved rigid spatulas; normally I’d be happy to use my hands but here it just leaves you covered with everything.
2. Spread this mixture on two baking tins (the sort that come with ovens and are about the width of a rack) and bake in a gas mark 3/170c oven turning over halfway through the baking and redistributing the granola evenly during the baking process. The object is to get it evenly golden without toasting too much in any one place. This should take anything from about 40 minutes. I use a gas oven, which doesn’t brown as fast as en electric one, so often leave it in up to an hour.4
3. Once its baked, allow to cool and mix together with the raisins. Store airtight

Note: I make a chocolate and peanut version of this, using 300g raw peanuts in place of the almonds, and adding 25g best quality cocoa powder along with the oats, sunflower seeds and sesame seeds, giving everything a good raking over with my hands so that the cocoa is evenly dispersed before I add the remaining ingredients. And I sometimes leave the raisins out of Andy’s granola, but I absolutely never include them in this version. You could however tinker with the idea of some dried cherries.

From Feast by Nigella Lawson

The lovely thing about Christmas, aside from Christmas itself, is that work tends to wind down and people get more relaxed and there is time made for leisurely lunches. Consulting work, although you forgo the work Christmas party, means that you will inevitably get invited out to a corporate lunch sometime before everyone goes on holidays. Bathers Pavilion was perfect for me as a) its literally down the road from where I live b)I had wrapped up all of my work for the year so I had nothing to do but enjoy and c) its one of the most fabulous restaurants in Sydney on one of the most gorgeous (if not particularly good for surfing) beaches.

Its less than a week until Christmas and the restaurant is full of diners, some business lunchers, some ladies who lunch and groups that are celebrating a pre Christmas get together. The cafe next to the restaurant is also incredibly busy drawing a steady stream of clientèle although the restaurant’s pace seems a little calmer than the cafe. The restaurant is full of cream and white and a lot of blue in fitting with the sandy beach outside and the stunning ocean view.

Cranberry and watermelon cocktail (non alcoholic)

Its a humid summer’s day and a round of sparkling mineral water and cranberry and watermelon cocktails are ordered to quench the thirst. A quick browse of the menu and I see instantly what I want for my entree, the Spring Bay abalone, seared scallop and prawn, 5 onion riso. M, N and A all order the Tuna Sashimi with crispy soft shell crab and wasabi flying fish roe . I’m having more trouble figuring out what to order for my main but I settle on the Assiette of Macleay Valley Rabbit crown, rillettes, loin and liver with potèe of confit leg. M orders the Casserole of Blue eye cod fillet, scampi and mussels, coconut shellfish bisque. N orders the Dry Aged Angus sirloin with braised Wagyu beef shin, endive, pomme puree, bone marrow sauce. A orders the Humpty Doo Barramundi with Baby octopus and calamari, saffron potato, Romesco sauce.

Sourdough bread with salted and unsalted butter

Our bread arrives shortly with salted (triangle) and unsalted (round) butter shapes. Its slightly warm diamond shaped sourdough is good but not as moreishly compelling as the sourdough at Bècasse which could make any bread hater into a lover.

Amuse Bouche-artichoke mousse with salmon and crab

The amouse bouche arrives, a small shotglass for everyone filled with artichoke mousse, shellfish oil, salmon sashimi pieces and crab meat. This is so fabulously rich and voluptuous, it needs to be eaten one small spoonful at a time to protract the experience as much as possible and has me wondering if its possible to order a big bowl of the amuse bouche.

Oysters naturel (with red onion vinaigrette and home made pumpernickel bread not pictured)

Our plate of oysters to share arrives alongside with home made pumpernickel bread and red onion vinaigrette. They lovely and fresh although not quite as ice cold and briney as the ones at Bècasse.

Spring Bay abalone, seared scallop and prawn, 5 onion riso

Our entrees arrive and I am doubly pleased at my choice once I see it, a large king prawn sits in the centre of a mound of herby, oniony risoni (rice shaped pasta), flanked by two gigantically fat seared scallops (scallops of my dreams!) and three thin slices of abalone. The seafood is perfection, fresh and firm yet toothsome and a lovely counterpoint to the risoni which is heady in savoury onioney sweetness with what tastes like a saffron cream emulsion. At first taste its a little bland but a sprinkle of salt turns it into a star dish.

Tuna Sashimi with crispy soft shell crab and wasabi flying fish roe

Everyone else has the tuna and it looks fabulous and I am assured that it is indeed as good as it looks.

There is a small break and our mains arrive. My assiette of Rabbit is artistically expressed and resembles a rambling painting with a dot of bean here, liver of rabbit there and a streak of carrot puree there. However I must confess now something that anguished me to no end. Once I had run around and taken photos of my patient dining partner’s meals, I had neglected to take a picture of my own! Once I had realised this, I looked around frantically to see whether anyone nearby was having their rabbit dish delivered to them so that I could accost them and get a photo of theirs but much to the relief of my dining companions, I was out of luck. So alas, there is no picture of it but you’ll have to put up with my description instead. The rabbit liver is seared on the outside and pink on the inside and quite mild in flavour, the proscuitto wrapped rillettes are firm and also fairly mild with the flavour coming mostly from the proscuitto. The main attraction on the plate is undoubtedly the rabbit confit leg. Crispy and unctuous the leg sits atop a circle of seasoned white meat strips which are incredibly tasty. The random scattered broad beans and streaks of carrot puree are an unusual pairing with the rabbit and not the most enjoyable accompaniment with the carrot reminding me of baby food. They do give me a mini La Creuset full of roasted vegetables and bacon which I would’ve enjoyed if I weren’t rapidly filling up with food.

Dry Aged Angus sirloin with braised Wagyu beef shin, endive, pomme puree, bone marrow sauce

I try some of the Wagyu beef shin which resembles a gruesome eyeball and its reminiscent of a tender slow cooked beef cut. Nothing gruesome about it at all. The pomme puree is smooth and buttery with a variety of sauteed mushrooms stirred through the copper pot.

Humpty Doo Barramundi with Baby octopus and calamari, saffron potato, Romesco sauce

The stunningly delicious looking Barramundi elicits signs from A of being incredibly good.

Casserole of Blue eye cod fillet, scampi and mussels, coconut shellfish bisque

M also enjoys her seafood stew with coconut shellfish bisque which is rich in a variety of seafood and topped with shaved fresh coconut.

Waiters walk past with some delicious looking desserts which sells us completely on the idea of having dessert. Sometimes I wish they were obliged to walk past tables with the dishes so I would know what to order. After much umming and aahing I order the Caramelised Pineapple and ginger tart with iced coconut terrine. M orders the Raspberries and berries with lemon curd ice cream, cassis sorbet and linzer biscuit and N & A order the Menage a trois des Chocolats, Vanilla Anglaise. We’re given a good 20 minutes to digest our mains before the desserts arrive.

Caramelised Pineapple and ginger tart with iced coconut terrine

My pineapple tart arrives with a gorgeous crème brûlèe type toffee crust which shatters satisfyingly. Its housed in a crisp buttery filo pastry shell and inside it sits a crème brûlèe with small sweet pineapple pieces. Its not particularly gingery but its sinfully good and rich but at the same time fresh with the sweet headily fragrant pineapple. The pyramid of coconut iced coconut terrine is refreshingly good with alternating layers of pineapple and coconut sitting atop a finely diced mound of sweetened fresh pineapple.

Menage a trois des Chocolats, Vanilla Anglaise

The menage a trois of chocolate is an exercise in chocolate indulgence with three types of chocolate: a rich earthy pudding, a delicate chocolate mousse in a semi circle with a rich centre and glossy and glazed on the outside and an elegant rectangle of chocolate which is similar to the semi circle. I try a little of these and they’re good in a verging onto almost too rich but can’t stop eating kind of way.

Raspberries and berries with lemon curd ice cream, cassis sorbet and linzer biscuit

The raspberry with lemon curd ice cream is the most arrestingly gorgeous architectural masterpiece with its square layer of toffee on top neat rows of fresh raspberries although I find the lemon curd and raspberries a bit too tangy a combination for me.

Our petit fours arrive and there are four to choose from, an eggy pandan raspberry pyramidal morsel; a dark round blackcurrant pastille, a dark chocolate truffle and a soft toasted coconut biscuit. As I am completely full I am not particularly taken with them and lose interest after sampling a corner of each as I continue dreaming about that luscious pineapple dessert and the incredible abalone entree.

Two courses for lunch $85
Three courses for lunch $100
Minimum 2 courses

Degustation menu also available $150, with wines $220

Market menu also available (5 courses) $125, with wines $185

The Bathers’ Pavilion Restaurant

4 The Esplanade
Balmoral 2088 NSW
Phone: (02) 9969 5050
www.batherspavilion.com.au
Open: Daily noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10pm
Seats: 78