Let me start off by saying that I’m not really the person for loud, rowdy restaurants where people are bellowing across the floor at each other, no matter how good naturedly it may be. Witness my discomfort at the Italian Bowl. So when I’m told that Bertoni’s in Balmain is a home style Italian cafe I’m a little nervous at the idea of a repeat Italian Bowl episode. I’m comforted by Bertoni’s being voted Sydney’s Favourite Cafe in the SMH Good Food Guide and NSW’s Best Cafe in Delicious. I also notice that they have a branch at Mosman which I’ve failed to notice completely.

It’s Balmain Rozelle’s Food Week and some establishments are having more luck than other fulfiling their programs. Indeed, I went to Victoire on Friday to be told that everything had sold out except for the pissaladiere and when I went to the church on Sunday for their afternoon tea, there was not a single soul there so we figured they must have called it off. A tad inconvenient for those of us that have traveled for the experience *grumble grumble*.

We walked past Bertoni’s on Friday and it was packed to the rafters with a line and people on milk crates outside and a long communal table balancing a crowd with elbows touching. And on this Sunday there was a huge crowd too. But after a little boutique browsing we walk back past there and the whole communal table has cleared. Ahhh luck! We grab a seat as fast as we can and I go to the counter to order. There is a special deal on for Food Week with a special panini filled with Italian sausage, cheese, caponota and topped with spicy sausage along with a coffee for $10. I order that with Bert or is it Tony? In any case, he’s a very genial and friendly guy who just oozes genuine Italian charm. Not over the top but just sincerely lovely. I ask what else is good and he goes through the pasta selection with me which features beef tortellini with ragu, ravioli with pumpkin and cheese and baby spinach leaves, meatballs and penne. Unfortunately they’re out of the Osso Buco, one of my favourite items and an absolute steal at $10 with a side.

I ask about the sweets and he tells me that they’re bought in as they tried to make them themselves but found that they just weren’t as good as the ones that they bought in from the Italian company who had been making Italian sweets for 50 years and I like his honesty. However all of the sauces and pastas are made in the kitchen in the back by their mother and they also sell their bottled sauces like the Sugo del Giardino made for generations, as well as EVO Olio Di Campagna, Balsamic Del Modeno, pasta, crostini and coffee.

Our coffee arrives and it’s fantastic, strong but well rounded in flavour. My husband particularly likes the coffee. Our special Panini arrives next in a paper boat looking like a hot dog with everything but of course tasting much better. It’s a soft white long panini roll filled with melted cheese at the bottom and 2 Italian sausages fragrant with fennel, garlic and chili. On top of this is the most gorgeously soft caponata, devoid of that vinegary taste that some have, just the softest most delicious eggplant and capsicum and on top of that are small but copious twigs of salami. I sink my teeth in and am instantly rewarded with sunshine and bliss.

We’re waiting for about 10 minutes for our pasta and by now, the girl next to us who entered after we did has hers. I enquire with our friendly waitress (it seems everyone here is uniformly lovely) and we are issued with a replacement at a larger size with bread.

The spaghetti and meatballs arrives in a black plastic takeaway container (we were warned that there were no plates here) and features 6 beef meatballs on top of a tangle of lightly tomato coated spaghetti. I like the meatballs, they’re soft and flavoursome but the spaghetti isn’t as al dente as I’d like and I do like a lot of sauce. My husband doesn’t seem bothered, he finishes it all.

When we leave, there’s still a huge queue waiting for coffee, pasta and our table so we make haste and leave where our spots are instantly snatched up. It’s that popular you see.

Bertoni Casalinga

281 Darling St Balmain 2041
Tel: +61 (02) 9818 5845
Open 7 days
Mon-Fri 6.30am-6.30pm
Sat 6.30am-6.30pm
Sun 7.30am-6.30pm
Cash Only
http://www.bertoni.com.au/

I’ll start off with an embarrassing incident. We were walking to the Hong Kong Cake Shop on busy Victoria Avenue Chatswood as I wanted to buy some bread and cakes (what’s new you might say). I saw a sign saying “Come in and try our fish balls”. Not being one to refuse a food invitation I walked in and helped myself to a toothpicked morsel from a plate of several on the counter. There was a loud gasp from the staff. Apparently I had helped myself to a paying customer’s plate that just happened to be sitting on the counter. I apologised profusely. I obviously had no idea and the owner apologised to me for scaring me. In my defence, your Honour, sample plates are usually on the counter with toothpicks and this customer’s order of 20 or so fish balls had a toothpick in every fish ball and of course they were small sample sized I naturally assumed….

I’m babbling of course. I recovered from my embarrassment and bought some goodies. Armed with a tray and tongs, the first thing to catch me eye was a Corrugated loaf ($2)-it was a good 15cms long and indeed corrugated in shape and flexible. It smells sweet and buttery and is interspersed with sultanas. My husband likes this bread sliced, with jam for breakfast.

The next thing I purchased was a lotus seed cake with preserved vegetable $1.80. I adore Lotus seed, it’s my version of chocolate flavour. If I see something lotus seed flavoured, I’ll order it above all other flavours. The pastry is fairly layered and the lotus seed paste thick. What I hadn’t counted on was the preserved vegetable. It had a strong aroma and a firm texture and if I could pinpoint an aroma it would be spicy ginger.

Another flavour that I particularly like is Chestnut (don’t leave me alone with a can of chestnut puree) and at $1.40 for the cake, it’s a steal. It’s a plain but soft vanilla sponge with a thin smearing of that Chinese mock cream that Chinese bakeries often have and then a squiggle of chestnut puree on top of mock cream at the top.

The last item was a red bean jelly ($1.10). They dislodged it from the bowl with a skewer for me to take away. She mentioned that there was rice in it so I thought that there would be sticky rice but it appears that it’s either rice flour in the jelly or something else entirely that I can’t see or taste or something was lost in the translation. In any case, it’s not the most flavoursome of jellies and I give to my husband, a jelly loving fanatic who gobbles it down.

The prices are typical of Chinese bakeries, amazingly good. Just don’t help yourself to the toothpicked balls on the counter!

Hong Kong Cake Shop

Shop B3 Victoria Plaza 369 Victoria Ave, Chatswood
Tel: +61 (02) 9419 2204

As someone that cooks for every occasion, I thought that today would be fitting to take a Rosemary Loaf cake in that it is Anzac Day. For those who have never heard of it, the Wikipedia link I’ve given will tell you a bit about it. In Australia we use sprigs of Rosemary as it’s associated with remembrance and commemoration. Whether one is for or against war, is another matter, it’s sad when people lose their lives and my instinct whenever dealing with any sort of sadness or grief is of course to bake.

Nigella’s Rosemary loaf recipe was in remembrance for her maternal grandmother Rosemary. I’ve never really used rosemary for a sweet cake, only savouries such as roasted potatoes and lamb so I was intrigued to try this. Nigella has another slightly different recipe for this in Feast with grated apple but since I didn’t have any apple at the time, I made this one. She does suggest serving this with stewed sweetened apples. It’s similar to a Madeira cake but with an exoticness from the rosemary. And don’t skimp on the sugar crusted top, try and get the sugar up the the sides as it gives such a delicious crust. Trust me on this.

Rosemary Loaf cake

• 250 g soft unsalted butter
• 200 g golden caster sugar (I used regular caster sugar)
• 3 large eggs
• 210 g self raising flour
• 90g plain flour
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• needles from a 10cm stalk of rosemary chopped small, but not too fine (about 2 teaspoons)
• 4 tablespoons milk
• 1-2 tablespoons rosemary sugar or caster sugar
• 23 x 13 x 7cm loaf tin, buttered and lined

1. Preheat the oven to 170 C/gas mark 3

2. Now cream the butter, adding the sugar when it’s really soft, and creaming both together till pale and smooth and light. Beat in the eggs one at a time, folding in a spoonful of the flour after each addition, then add the vanilla. Fold in the rest of the flour - I find a rubber spatula the best tool for the job - and finally add the rosemary.

3. Thin the batter with the milk - you’re after a soft, dropping consistency - and pour, with some helpful prodding and scraping with your spatula, into the waiting tin. Sprinkle the top with a little sugar before putting it in the oven, and cook for 1 hour, or until a cake-tester comes out clean.

4. Leave to cool on a wire rack in its tin, and when completely cold, unmould and wrap well in foil till you need to eat it. Like all these sorts of cakes, it keeps well.

From How To Be A Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson

I was reminded of Pie in the Sky by a NQN reader Maria who also has her own great food blog Foodie Wanderings. She spoke of a Pie in the Sky near her in Melbourne which made me recall the one in Sydney, well the outskirts of Sydney, in Cowan. With a gorgeous view, we had driven past it on our way back from the Hunter Valley and various other excursions, always meaning to go in but never quite making it there.

This weekend, we thought we’d take a drive to Cowan for a change of scenery and a sample of some pie and view. It’s a day where the sun interchanges with rain and we hope that when we get there that we’ll have some sun.

We’re in luck today and whilst it’s not gloriously sunny, it’s still pleasant enough outside to sit outdoors and enjoy the view. There is a front kiosk as well as an inside area where you can order more substantial meals (pies with chips, Devonshire teas). There are 18 savoury pie flavours on offer today ranging from Steak & Kidney, Beef, bacon & Cheese, Curried Beef, Chicken & Asparagus, Chicken & Corn, Chicken Satay, Lamb & Pea and Lamb, Chili and Garlic as well as sausage rolls. They appear to be out of vegetable pies although their flyer does include them. The pies are all $4.50 and the sausage rolls $2.30. I choose a Lamb, Honey & Rosemary pie as well as a Beef Burgundy pie.

Behind the counter are fruit pies (all $2.20) in Apple, Apricot, Blueberry and Peach flavours as well as a new flavour, Apple & Rhubarb. I choose a Peach pie and a Blueberry pie.

Lamb, Honey & Rosemary pie $4.50

We bring our precious haul to an outdoor table, and after some careful photo taking in which one of the young staff inquires “Wow, you like the pies that much?” to our photo taking and when we explain he seems pleased and says “Cool thanks!”. I try the Lamb, Honey and Rosemary first. Inside are chunks of tender lamb and a sweetish sauce courtesy of the honey which is not overdone, just right. The Rosemary flavour isn’t particularly strong but the filling is delicious and the pie welcomingly warm.

Beef Burgundy pie $4.50

The Beef Burgundy pie is next and it’s rich and hearty with a deep dark brown and burgundy sauce. The beef is in thick soft chunks and the burgundy wine gives it an extra richness. The base of the pastry for this is very soft, indeed the filling has gone all the way through to the bottom. It’s a change from the harder bases that one can get in pies.

I discover that my husband and I like the exact same part of the pie best-the part of the puff pastry lid where the filling meets the pastry, you know the layer of pastry that is still white and thin but plastered with sauce and deliciously pliable whilst the layers above it are golden. We need a name for this delicious part and we wonder if there is one for this layer.

It’s time for the fruit pies, the small rounds of sugar topped sweetness. The pastry here is thicker sweet shortcrust and it reminds me of pies I had when I was young. There isn’t a great deal of filling in these but the blueberry is particularly good, it’s not too sweet but there is no tartness to the berries at all. Ideal if you don’t like your fruit pies too sweet. The peach pie is a bit of a disappointment for me, it seems like it is made out of tinned peaches which doesn’t bother my husband but I would prefer fresh peaches.

We brush off our pie crumbs and look around-we’ve been too busy eating and attending to our pies to notice our surrounding-yes when I’m around food I tend to get tunnel vision. The view is lovely and the place has filled up with all sorts of motorcycle riders as well as the Rural Bush Fire Service workers enjoying a coffee, pie and the intermittent warmth from the sunshine.

Pie In the Sky

1296 Pacific Hwy, Cowan NSW 2081
Tel: +61 (02) 9985 7018
Fax: + 61 (02) 9985 7018
Open 7 days
Monday to Friday 9am-5pm
Saturday to Sunday 8am-5pm
Visa and Mastercard accepted

We’ve been waiting for months to go to La Mesa in Dee Why. Philippine cuisine is one of those cuisines that you don’t often see a lot of although we’ve heard it’s absolutely delicious so when we discover that there is a restaurant within 15 minute’s drive, dishing up authentic Philippino favourites we thought that our intrepid Hooter’s pals Queen Viv and Miss America would be more than up to the visit so we venture to La Mesa one howling, rainy Saturday night.

The small room is full with customers and warm lighting and numerous paintings and artifacts adorn the walls and counters. We’re shown to our table and I’m glad we booked, to be sent outside again into the howling wind is not something I’d relish.

Calamansi juice $3

We’ve started off with drinks, Calamansi juice ($3) to be exact as I’ve only heard of the name, never tried the drink and of course the well loved young coconut juice. The citrus Calamansi juice is like a cross between pineapple and other tropical juices. It’s light and sweet and unusual.

Young Coconut juice $3.50

The young coconut juice is mildly sweet but not overpowering so, and filled with slices of young coconut, Queen Viv’s favourite which she happily scoops up.

Mixed entree $7.80

Miss America, my husband and I order the mixed entree ($7.80) to share as Queen Viv is detoxing. There is a spring roll, pork/chicken skewer, prawn cake, fried quail egg and beef tapa with a vinegary dipping sauce and a sweeter chili dipping sauce. The spring roll is fresh and crispy; the pork/chicken skewer is tender and smokily flavoured from the grill; the fried quail egg is nice if not wowing as it’s a boiled quail’s egg with a bit of batter; the beef tapa is delicious and richly flavoured. The star is the shrimp cake, made of prawns, sweet potato and pumpkin it is deliciously squeaky and tasty. Next time I’ll order 4 of these and be quite happy.

Chicken Adobo $12.90

We’re waiting about 20 minutes for our mains and when our hosts, the owners I presume, notice that we’re looking around for our food, it appears gratefully a few minutes later. The Adobo chicken ($12.90) is the first to arrive, in a fish shaped bowl which holds the pieces of simmered chicken. The flavours are delicious yet slightly unusual with sugar cane vinegar, soy, garlic and black pepper. It’s everyone’s favourite at the table and every drop of the sauce is eaten once the chicken disappears.

Crispy Pata $17.90

The Crispy Pata ($17.90) is a gigantic dish, a prehistoric looking relic of Flintstonian proportions. There are some huge pork bones and lots of soft, tender pork meat and delicious pork crackling. It’s fall apart good and despite knowing how bad for your health pork crackling is for you to eat, you just do and do and do.

Caldereta $13.90

Rice $2.50 per person unlimited

The Beef Caldereta ($13.90) arrives next, it’s a bright red sauce with smallish chunks of beef, strips of red capcisum and olives. The unusual flavour in it is from most surprisingly, liver pate combined with tomato paste and bay leaves. As we chose hot upon the waiter’s recommendation, it is indeed fairly fiery but never too much so. I have a major, unabating craving for this the next day.

Tinolang Yaman ng Karagatan $19.90

The Tinolang Yaman ng Karagatan ($19.90) is the last main to arrive and it is a huge cavernous bowl on a stand filled with an excellent variety of seafood including half a crab, prawns, mussels, calamari, salmon and white fish in a delicately fragrant broth strong with ginger, garlic and lemongrass. It’s not powerful, but it’s delicately perfumed and the soup is restorative.

We take a bit of a break as we need to rest our stomachs but as your eye tends to do, it wandered over to the dessert menu which showed an interesting range of sweets.

Halo Halo $7.50

The Halo Halo ($7.50) is a milkshake glass full of shaved ice, milk and ice cream with delicious morsels of fruit and beans at the bottom. It’s a little difficult to eat and would have been better served in a bowl where you can scoop up the deliciously sweet morsels of unknown fruit and jellies. It’s like a more delicious version of Ice Kacang and I abandon all loyalty to the Ice Kacang in favour of this new dessert. The little squares of sweetneed exotic fruit are delicious and trying to get to these at the bottom is hard but a rewarding task. Even the vanilla ice cream is delicious with more creaminess than the normal icy generic vanilla ice cream that places will give. I want this waiting for me when I die and go to wherever it is that I will go.

Special Biko $3.80

I try the Special Biko ($3.80) with young coconut and jackfruit. Unfortunately I can’t actually see any jackfruit on tonight’s version, only young coconut. It’s a warmed rice cake made of black sticky rice enriched with coconut milk. It’s good and comforting if not spectacular but then nothing can really follow the Halo Halo.

Turon $4.50

Lastly we try the Turon ($4.50), a fried banana ladyfinger with the appearance of a spring roll. We asked for ice cream with this ($1 extra) which it really needs as the ladyfinger is starchy and floury. I should think that regular bananas would be better in this if the lady fingers are as starchy as these were. It would have been lovely otherwise with the super crackly pastry and ice cream.

We exit, our stomachs full, into the howling cold night. But for once we don’t notice, as we’re too busy talking about the food we just ate.

La Mesa Phillipine Cuisine

Shop 2, 874 Pittwater Road (corner of Oaks Avenue) Dee Why Sydney
Tel +61 (02) 9972-9877
Lunch: 11:00-3:00pm
Dinner: Sun-Thurs 5:00-9:00pm; Fri-Sat 5:00-10:00pm
Surcharge for credit cards 2.5%. Corkage $2

I thought that the Crispy Pata deserved another close up food pornographic look don’t you?