The Burlington, Crows Nest

The Burlington, Matthew Kemp and Lela Radojkovic’s One Hatted North side restaurant is one that we are grateful for. Growing up in the East I took if for granted that there were lots of good restaurants around but when I moved North I found it was a little harder to find these gems. Prices are more reasonable here than the already reasonable-for-the-standard-of-food at Restaurant Balzac and this Saturday night my husband are scheduled for a romantic dinner, just the two of us, and of course the omnipresent camera.

Looks rather spooky upstairs no?

From the outside, it doesn’t look like anything much, quite plain with unadorned windows but the interior is warm, reminiscent of Balzac with a little less fancy in the front room, with a middle room and large back room for a large private table with a huge chandelier atop. My husband swears that it used to be one of those Haunted or Host a Murder party venues and indeed, looking at the top floor from the outside it looks a bit spooky. We’re given our menus but I already know what I want having scoured the website already on several separate occasions (yes I am obsessed). I order two entree sizes meals while my husband orders an entree and a main. We’ve asked about the Eton Mess, his famed dessert but it’s not on the menu tonight. Like Balzac, the service is friendly and informal except for our main waitress who lacks the warmth of the rest of the staff and is instead cooly polite.

The bread arrives, 2 slices of a rye sourdough loaf with butter, at a little too soft a temperature. The bread is very good however with a good crust on the outside.

Terrine of smoked ham hock and pork cheek, ear beignets and remoulade $12 (small size)

We’re not waiting long before our entrees arrive, mine is the Terrine of smoked ham hock and pork cheek, ear beignets and remoulade. I’ve ordered the entree size which is 1 slice of the terrine. On the website there are 4 slices pictured so I expected 2 slices with 4 slices being the main size. It’s wonderfully good, reportedly taking two days to make, the brawn consisting of soft meat melding together with the carrots, celery and herbs and bound together and suspended in gelatine.

The thin crunchy toast slivers are indeed very crunchy and the little pig’s ear beignets are crispily good. And remoulade is one of my favourite accompaniments and it goes oh so perfectly with the rest of this dish.

Veloute of baby garden peas with scallops $10 (small size)

My husband’s Veloute of baby garden peas with scallops has him reluctantly surrendering half his plate to me. It’s resoundingly heady with peas and smooth as silk, the barely cooked scallops a nice foil to the soup. I have my half and he takes the plate back and proceeds to scoop and scoop as much as he can from the plate.

Croquettes of salt cod and pimento $14

It’s a short break before our mains arrive, I’ve ordered the Croquettes of salt cod and pimento, three fat freshly cooked, hot and crispy fish croquettes, perfectly seasoned and paired with a pimento tinged mayonnaise, small fried garlic slivers and deep fried parsley shards. Delicious.

Mustard selection

Grain fed sirloin with hand cut chips and sauce Bearnaise 250gm $32

My husband’s main of Grain fed sirloin with hand cut chips, beef jus and sauce Bearnaise comes out and they offer him a choice of 4 mustards, each housed in a cute little copper pot. The horseradish is made on the premises every day so he opts for this being a wasabi lover and loves its pungent quality.

Me I’m the opposite and steer clear of it preferring the perfectly medium rare steak with the Bernaise sauce and fat hand cut chips (although a bit more tarragon in the Bernaise would suit me).

Creme Catalan $12

We don’t have a lot of room left so we opt to share a dessert, the Creme Catalan, a Spanish version of the Creme Brulee with cinnamon and a touch of orange zest unless I am mistaken. The top has a great toffee crunch (a must). It’s my favourite part of a creme so if it doesn’t come with this, I am very disappointed. I didn’t realise that my husband was so used to my obsession with the toffee crust that when I asked him why he wasn’t eating, he said (surprised at the question) that he thought that I was getting the whole toffee top and he was getting the bottom half. I feel guilty for being a toffee hog. Momentarily of course.

The Burlington

6 Burlington Street Crows Nest 2065 Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9439 7888
Email: admin@burlingtonbardining.com.au
Open: Monday to Friday for lunch from 12.00pm
Monday to Saturday for dinner from 6.00pm
http://www.burlingtonbardining.com.au/

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16 Comments | Add your own

  • 1. Amanda | October 9, 2008 at 10:37 am | #

    I like The Burlington, and it’s conveniently within walking distance for us, which is another plus. However, I was really surprised to see it get a hat this year. We’ve had some fantastic dishes there, but we’ve also had some real misses. Every meal we’ve had there has been a bit inconsistent. Some things are guaranteed winners: the terrine, the bread and butter pudding etc. . . But we’ve some quite disappointing dishes as well. I’m sure they’ll workout the kinks in time, bit it’s a great value, and they’re still a fantastic addition to the neighbourhood (which has quite a few hidden gems- no mater what people on the other side of the bridge think :) ).

  • 2. flapflap | October 9, 2008 at 12:24 pm | #

    The toffee crust on creme brulees is definitely the best part! Where have you had good creme brulee?? I’m needing to expand my horizons beyond La Renaissance at the Rocks and Pattison’s Chatswood…

  • 3. SydneyGal | October 9, 2008 at 1:44 pm | #

    Many many moons ago this was a trattoria. I can’t remember the name exactly but I had my engagement dinner party there. I thought it was fabulous Italian food back then (we’re talking 1992) but I now realise it was bog standard big bowls of pasta etc. This looks like vast improvement – and the prices seem extremely reasonable. Pity the fact of it having been a place I went to celebrate my engagement to such an absolute …. as my ex-husband means I can never set foot in it. Ah well …

  • 4. snooky doodle | October 9, 2008 at 3:25 pm | #

    nice food yummy

  • 5. Teresa | October 9, 2008 at 4:08 pm | #

    What’s that “Eton Mess” dessert you speak of? I’m going here in a few weeks time… and hopefully it’ll be available!

  • 6. Y | October 9, 2008 at 6:17 pm | #

    Looks like you really scored with the dishes you ordered, Lorraine! That terrine …!

  • 7. FFichiban | October 9, 2008 at 7:52 pm | #

    Oohh very close by indeed. Shall try it out when I get the chance :) and the creme catalan is glisteneing :D

  • 8. Mmmfood | October 9, 2008 at 8:34 pm | #

    Hey – I was just there the Saturday that just past and ordered the steak (medium) as well – which was just yummo!

    I was looking forward to the Eton Mess as well, which unfortunately didn’t appear on the menu.

    Agree on the comment about the service.

  • 9. Not Quite Nigella | October 9, 2008 at 9:58 pm | #

    Hi Amanda-Interesting, a friend also had some disappointing dishes there too. Which dishes disappointed? Just so I can avoid them if I go back :) Haha ok there are some hidden gems but I am yet to find a lot of them yet!

    Hi flapflap -I adore the creme brulee at Sel et Poivre in Darlinghurst. it comes in a shallow long oval dish so maximum toffee crunch. Sadly the owner from there passed away this recently but I believe that it is still continuing.

    Hi SydneyGal-Oh no! Tainted by bad company or memories :( Maybe bring someone spectacular there and exorcise the ghosts or romances past?

    Hi snooky doodle-Yes indeed!

    Hi Teresa-Eton Mess is a creamy dessert with meringue in it and fruit (like a pavlova in a glass). Apparently he switches the fruit month by month when its on. I was so disappointed that I missed it as I love pavlova.

    Hi Y-I know! We were very lucky, if only the terrine had 1 more slice… :P

    Hi FFichiban-Yes good reason to visit if you’re local! :) The toffee is so important isn’t it!

    Hi Mmmfood-I was there this past Saturday too! I think the Eton Mess ought to be a staple, it’s not like now isn’t a good time for fruit! :)

  • 10. SoRMuiJAi | October 9, 2008 at 11:02 pm | #

    Hmmm I worked at Crows Nest for a number of years and never noticed this place?? Has it been open for long? But then so, I was mainly only interested in quick lunch places anyway.

  • 11. Angela | October 9, 2008 at 11:32 pm | #

    The pig’s ear beignets sound amazing! I’ve never had a chance to try the more interesting offal (although I was offered a trotter the other day). The creme Catalan also sounds very good.

    One day I’ll be brave enough to visit Sydney and eat at all these wonderful places. I’m just waiting for the spiders to sign a peace treaty with me!

  • 12. grace | October 10, 2008 at 12:51 am | #

    that building does look kinda eerie, but anywhere that offers four types of mustard is okay in my book. :)

  • 13. Amanda | October 10, 2008 at 12:10 pm | #

    Disappointing dishes: We had a very dry and flavourless Roasted Spatchcock with Green Olives, Lemon and Thyme; a Bream with a Potato and Rosemary ‘pizza’ which was a disaster. It really fell short in execution. The main problem being that a slice of pizza is generally eaten with your hands, while the probably-thicker-than-they-should-have-been sheets of potato were near impossible to cut through, yet the rest of the components of the dish made it impossible to eat with your hands. It made for a frustrating eat.

    If you’re interested in some of the hidden gems, I’ll have a think and email a few. :)

  • 14. Not Quite Nigella | October 10, 2008 at 9:53 pm | #

    Hi SoRMuiJAi-I don’t know exactly how long it has been open but I think only this year (someone else may know better).

    Hi Angela-They were great :) I am skittish about offal, liver is ok though. But I love trotters and marrow and the other bits. The creme catalan was delicious with the perfect amount of toffee to it.

    Hehe in the city, there aren’t so many deadly creatures-honest! :)

    Hi grace-My husband was really impressed by the mustards as was I. I love having too much choice!

    Hi Amanda-Thanks for the names, I shall avoid those if I go back if they’re still on the menu. There was bream with the rosemary and potato pizza?

    Thankyou for the list! :)

  • 15. Maria | November 3, 2008 at 11:37 am | #

    This looks like a nice place to eat! I loved your terrine entree. I’m endlessly fascinated with terrines and I ‘eye’ them off in gourmet deli’s, but never fork-out the $8 or so for a small slice! I’ve got to make one, one day.

    Love a good croquette. Was it overly salty? I’ve never had it before but I know what it is and how it’s prepared.

    Your hubby’s steak and chips meal looked so ‘neat’ and tidy. Also, looking at the piece of beef I can’t help but think of his vegan upbringing and “Oh how far you’ve come” :lol: !

    Love the little copper pots too :)

  • 16. Not Quite Nigella | November 3, 2008 at 10:31 pm | #

    Hi Maria-I think that if they’re that good it’s worth making although this one sounds like a bit of a production to make at home!

    The croquette was perfectly salted, I was worried it might be too salty but no, it was crispy, crunchy hot and very good.

    Haha yes his first instinct is not to order a big piece of meat but he enjoys eating it that’s for sure :lol: I love the mini copper pots too, I want some!

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