Aggy’s Fish & Chips Shack & Paradise, Queenstown, New Zealand

I first heard of Aggy’s Fish and chips shack right on the esplanade of Queenstown beach from a fellow tourist who asks Nathan the ever helpful Crowne Plaza Queenstown Concierge whether it’s safe to eat there. He nods says that it indeed safe to eat there and the tourist breathes a sigh of relief as he’s eager to have some freshly cooked New Zealand green lipped mussels. We walk past the little black painted shack and see the queues outside. Aggy the cook is inside busily taking orders and cooking them to order all within the confines of his tiny shack. We make a mental note to come back when we have a quick look a the menu. Not only is there fish and chips but there is also a Wild NZ menu full of unusual items, the most interesting being the muttonbird meal (or Titti bird as it’s also known here or sooty Shearwater). Aggy has been here for 3 years and before that he had a stand in Wanaka and one in Cromwell but when he gets tired of his surroundings he moves. Aggy’s son also works there. I later ask Nathan about this shack and he tells me that it had previously been an ice cream shop, and a sushi shop.

We come back one lunchtime. Aggy is friendly, one of those characters that you feel instantly resembles a Popeye cartoon character.  I order a mutton bird meal $20NZD and the Green Lipped mussels $10NZD and a Sea Scallop fritter $2NZD (yes, $2!). I watch him make the orders, he’s organised, well you have to be to make food in such a small surroundings, and I watch him steam the mussels by putting them in a metal mixing bowl and flipping it upside down onto the hot plate leaving the bowl on top to steam them in their juices.

Mutton Bird Meal $20NZD

After about 5-10 minutes we’re given our food. He’s a big fan of the mutton bird and tells us how rich in Omega 3’s it is. We’re fascinated by the dish, the mutton bird being incredibly fatty and tasting intriguingly of fish. He tells us that mutton birds need to learn how to feed very quickly and well as they need to pack on the fat to survive the South Atlantic ocean temperatures in which they survive. He tells us of a particularly bad year when they weren’t able to do this and a whole lot of them washed ashore dead, unable to survive. When they’re able to, he shows us with his hands how big they are when he receives them. The flesh is dark, darker than duck meat and softer than soft, very much like a confer and the fatty skin is plentiful all over the bird.

Biting into it is interesting. It tastes strongly of fish  because that is what the birds themselves eat which explains why it is so high in Omega 3. Later my husband confesses to me that he was burping mutton bird burps which reminded him of cod liver oil (but don’t let that put you off, it is quite nice indeed although I can imagine some might be wary given that description).

Green lipped mussels 14 for $10NZD

I try the green lipped mussels which are gorgeous especially with the sweet chili sauce.

Scallop fritter $1.80NZD each

And scallop fritter? A gorgeously soft scallop combined with a light batter. I couldn’t ask for more than eating it in front of the Queenstown view.

Later we drive to “Paradise” an area past Glenorchy where some of the Lord of the Rings movie was shot (we see a LOTR tour showing fans the view). You can see why, the drive is gorgeously scenic although at times of rain and subsequent flooding not advised unless you have a 4WD. When you reach Paradise sadly there is no sign signifying “Welcome to Paradise” (how perfect would that sign be?). In fact Paradise is actually the start of a river.

Sheep, sheep and more sheep!

A stoic looking bull

On our way we drove past the deceptively unassuming looking entrance to Blanket Bay Lodge where international celebrities flock for privacy and luxury. The gate looks like a regular gate and when we stop we notice that it’s an electronic gate where there is a woman in a car waiting for it to close. We assume that it’s an employee ensuring that the gates close and that no stray interlopers enter. Let’s save that for another holiday shall we?

Aggy’s Fish & Chips Shack

Marine Parade, Queenstown, New Zealand
Open 7 days

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19 Comments | Add your own

  • 1. Arwen from Hoglet K | March 21, 2009 at 8:18 am | #

    Wow, you ate mutton bird! You’re like a true Antarctic adventurer now. You know mutton birds used to be harvested for their oil. Just like there were sealers and whalers in the sub-Antarctic islands there were mutton birders in Tasmania.

  • 2. The Duo Dishes | March 21, 2009 at 8:33 am | #

    Hmmm the mutton bird may not be down our alley…but the scallop fritter. Totally!

  • 3. BethieofVA | March 21, 2009 at 8:58 am | #

    That scallop fritter looks OMG delicious. I have never heard of a mutton bird, sounds intriguing. I would give it a try. Also, the scenery is just gorgeous.

  • 4. Forager | March 21, 2009 at 11:24 am | #

    Wow – interesting flavours you described in the mutton bird. I’d definitely try it but fish flavoured game bird does sound funky..

  • 5. Kathy | March 21, 2009 at 1:04 pm | #

    I’m glad you enjoyed the drive to Paradise. The afternoon we went it was cloudy & a little rainy but still a very scenic & beautiful drive.

    The mutton bird looks really interesting. I wonder what they look like um… not cooked =P

  • 6. foodie-central | March 21, 2009 at 2:05 pm | #

    The picture of the mutton bird looks good. I wouldn’t mind giving it a go :) and the scallop fritter WOW!

  • 7. Y | March 21, 2009 at 4:06 pm | #

    Mutton bird sounds interesting! Barry had possum pie when we were last in NZ. Can’t remember what he thought of it though.

  • 8. Brianna | March 21, 2009 at 4:56 pm | #

    I’ve only heard of mutton bird but its very cool how you have tried it. And a bird that tastes like fish-cool!

  • 9. Cakelaw | March 21, 2009 at 11:10 pm | #

    I am curious abouth the muttonbird – I have never heard of it being eaten. What beautiful photos of the NZ countryside – and the number of sheep is astounding!

  • 10. Cappucino | March 21, 2009 at 11:32 pm | #

    The sound of the mutton bird sounds interesting, I’m sure I’d give it a go :-D

    Lovely views!

  • 11. Aubrey | March 21, 2009 at 11:34 pm | #

    Never heard of mutton bird before but Id love to try it! Can u get it outside New Zealand?

  • 12. Sophie | March 22, 2009 at 12:29 am | #

    MMMMMMMM….The fishy dishies look fantastic! I think that I can not choose!! Beautiful pictures of the nature & sheep, Lorraine!!

  • 13. Angela | March 22, 2009 at 8:23 am | #

    I am intrigued by the mutton bird. I’d never heard of it, but I’m always up for trying new poultry.

    The scallop fritter is what really catches my eye, though. The batter looks as light as a cloud!

  • 14. Not Quite Nigella | March 22, 2009 at 9:19 pm | #

    Hi Arwen-Hehe thankyou! I felt like it was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up! :) Yes I read that, it ’s quite itneresting and yes the birds are very, very fatty!

    Hi The Duo Dishes-Oh that scallop fritter was light as a feather! :)

    Hi Bethie-It was delicious and I can’t believe how cheap it was! Eating in front of that scenery is very nice indeed :)

    Hi Forager-Hehe well I can’t imagine it;s everyone’s cup of tea but surprisingly my husband really liked it. I s did not expect him to! :lol:

    Hi Kathy-We’re so glad we drove there, there is some really spectacular scenery on that drive! Yes true, I suspect fat and feathery? :lol:

    Hi foodie-central-Good to know that you’d give it a go! :) Yes I cold have a half dozen of the scallop fritters easily!

    Hi Y-Ah yes they consider possums to be pests there! Although I never saw possum pie on the menu…

    Hi Brianna-To be honest I never thought that I’d ever see it on a menu so it was nice to discover it there! :)

    Hi Cakelaw-It’s not bad although yes it does taste of fish. Yes I can really believe that they have 20 million sheep! :lol:

    Hi Cappucino-Grwat to know, you’ve always got to try things once I say! :)

    Hi Aubrey-Hmm you know I don’t think I’ve ever seen it. I think in very cold areas. I don’t know if that includes Tasmania or other cold areas?

    Hi Sophie-Hehe it was hard to choose! We stood there for a while trying to decided :lol: Thankyou! :)

    Hi Angela-It’s definitely different and if I needed sustenance I’d definitely eat it although for those dieting not such a great idea! It was so delicate and light-so lovely! :)

  • 15. FFichiban | March 22, 2009 at 9:36 pm | #

    Ahhh NZ is so beautiful isn’t it?! Love the scenery shots and the bull hee hee.

    Oh wow the mutton bird looks tasty and high in Omega 3 is win!

  • 16. tammy | March 23, 2009 at 7:28 am | #

    You were brave eating mutton bird. I think you either love it or hate it. I love it!! But havent had it for years. It is very salty and oily but totally yummy!

  • 17. Red Neon Hearts | March 23, 2009 at 12:37 pm | #

    I don’t think I’d be brave enough to eat the mutton bird!

    How beautiful is the scenery? I could stare at those photos for hours!

  • 18. Not Quite Nigella | March 23, 2009 at 9:34 pm | #

    Hi Ffichiban-It is indeed! Yeah who knew it was so good for you? Although I wonder if we would taste like what we eat? :P

    Hi tammy-I don’t mind it but it is very oily so I think I’d eat it but in small doses. Hubby loved it though!

    Hi Red Neon Hearts-Hehe well it looks sort of like a small duck at first sight? But tastes nothing like it I guess :) It’s a breathtaking country! :D

  • 19. Rosemary | December 27, 2009 at 3:42 pm | #

    LOL, I dragged my husband to Aggy’s late one night in mid-winter and “made” him have the mutton-bird (and a taste of all the Queenstown treats)…he claims to have been scarred for life by the freezing cold and mutton-bird flavour. I found it interesting and edible on wintry night, though I might not rush it in summer. Aggy himself is a delight, and we had an interesting chat with him about local fish produce.

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