“The Spice Girls” writes Gourmet Traveller’s Pat Nourse
A name is very important. It can make or break a person or an item. Think of the person who was called Tony Esticles, Hugh Jarse or Vijay Jay. So when Christie, Y and I are seated at the swish dark wood panelled and red accented Spice Temple, Neil Perry’s latest venture, and we’re staring at the extremely tempting sounding yet unusually named dishes we realise we have a big task ahead choosing dishes. Spice Temple has enjoyed mostly positive reviews but with some sceptics, but we’re interested in trying Neil Perry’s take on Chinese cuisine ourselves. If anything he seems to understand the basics of Chinese numerology where the number 8 is considered an especially lucky number – it’s no coincidence that the restaurant phone number is 8078 1888.
The sometime door
It’s a strange sort of entrance downstairs to Spice Temple. A subtly signposted door which, at times, shows a computerised image of a door with curtains blowing. However when Christie and I get there it looks like a regular door. We accidentally go upstairs to his Rockpool Bar and Grill (and there’s no sign of any sort of recession there, it is full to the brim) and when we go down the windy stairs to the restaurant we’re greeted with a serene, glowing scene. Panels of rough hewn wood are placed to resemble bamboo and there are photos of stunning asian women on the wall dotted throughout the room. Their presence carries through to the menu and the cocktails, a heady and inviting mix of flavours with home made syrups sound intriguing and are named after creatures of the Chinese Horoscope.
Menus
Cocktails
The menu features items with intriguing names such as “Three shot chicken”, Beef fillet in fire water” and “Hot and numbing white cut chicken”. The hotter menu items are in red typeface and we ask the waitress what she recommends and she’s knowledgeable, polite and friendly. Interestingly, they are the dishes that we were leaning towards so our task is over. We choose 1 item from the “red” i.e. hot range and the rest from a mix of items. Our waitress does warn us that the fish we have chosen because of the name “Fish Drowned in dried chili and Sichuan peppercorns” is actually one of the hottest items on the menu. We consider ourselves warned!
Steamed Eggplant with three flavours: garlic, coriander and sweet pork prior to being mixed $18
We’re not kept waiting for long, despite the fairly full restaurant. It’s a Thursday lunchtime and there are all sorts of groups, mainly male business types enjoying the food. Our first dish arrives and it’s in three sections. There is the pork mince, the eggplant in soft slices, chopped coriander and the garlic, yes the garlic is the pale plentifully doled out item on the plate.
And before you think that we’re off to battle rogue Vampires in our very own Twilight moment, they assure us that the garlic has been blanched three times so that it is relatively mild. I hope so as I have a trip to the dentist later that afternoon. It’s ambrosial and very strongly flavoured, so much so that we ask for our rice at the same time to help balance out the strong flavour. The pork mince is reminiscent of the Mapo Tofu pork mince with strong black bean tones.
Cat’s Ear noodles with pork, peppers and chili sauce $14
Our second dish, from the Northern Chinese region is the Cats Ears Noodles made from potato and whilst being square shaped, they are indeed reminiscent of a flat spongy gnocchi. They’re silky smooth and delicious and the pork is tender and flavourful. I had a similar dish at Uighur Cuisine and whilst it was huge, spicy and filling, this one is more refined.
Hunan Style crispy pork belly with fresh and dried chillies and mushroom soy $26
Our third dish, and by now I am feeling impending satiety, is the Hunan Style crispy pork belly with fresh and dried chillies and mushroom soy with little cubes of pork belly. There are some batons of garlic chives and dried chillies on top (the chilies are fairly mild and delicious to chew on) and underneath there are lots of finely chopped garlic chives. The pork is lovely and soft although after too many pieces it can be a touch dry and the tiny garlic chives bits are a little difficult to pick up with chopsticks so they get largely left behind.
Fish drowned in dried chili and Sichuan peppercorns $29
The last dish, the Fish Drowned in dried chili and Sichuan peppercorns arrives in a huge bowl. All we can see is literally a sea of those dried chillies. There are oodles of them in fact. Our waitress offers to take some out for us and we let her know that we can do it ourselves as I wanted to capture how many chillies there were. We spent some time fishing out the chillies and Sichuan peppercorns, of which there are many, a whole bowlful’s worth, until we get to the fish.
It’s sitting in a soup that is very light in flavour and we take a piece of fish, cognizant of the warning we were given. Gingerly we take a bite expecting an extreme chili hit but…nothing. An ever so slight tingle from the peppercorns but we’re certainly not the fire breathing dragons we expected to be. In fact if anything it’s quite bland, particuarly when preceded with the other flavoursome dishes. It’s mostly left behind although Y likes the fish.
Four dishes for three girls is probably a bit too ambitious but we were amazed at the serving sizes – they’re indeed generous so we all make mental notes to take our menfolk, happy in the knowledge that they won’t starve. And if you can figure out how the toilet locks work, you’re smarter than the three of us!
Spice Temple
10 Bligh Street, Sydney, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 8078 1888
Open: Monday-Friday noon-3pm
Monday-Saturday from 6pm
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36 Comments | Add your own
That’s a bummer that the fish was bland. The other dishes look pretty good though. How would you rate this restaurant to the Chinese restaurants you usually frequent?
What an intriguing restaurant—the Cat’s Ear noodles with pork, pepper and chili sauce definitely caught my attention. I could devour a plateful right now!
Nice choice of dishes, pity about the fish – it looked like it would be very hot!
Love the decor. My pick is the prok belly. Hope your dentist visit went OK with all that garlic!
What a great review. How authentic do you think the dishes are? The value seems ok? And the decor looks a bit ‘Asian fantasy’, if you know what I mean (it’s probably not that bad!).
It’s a shame the fish was boring with all the spectacular chillis on top.
i’m always so curious about upmarket asian restaurants. there’s a part of me that cries out “but what about…(insert name of ridiculously cheap and tasty chinese restaurant just two blocks away)” every time. i have been curious about spice temple though, given the coverage, so am very glad i’ve gotten to see a bit more of it
It all looks wonderful!
I can’t help but wonder though, how spicy the fish would have been if you *hadn’t* taken out all the chili and peppercorns.
I’m still not terribly keen on those girls. I prefer the beauty to be on the plate. That said, the room would have probably looked too boring without them as a talking point. The eggplant was definitely the highlight. Too bad you two didn’t like the fish dish. No mention of the orgasmic noises Christie was making while eating the pork belly?
Thanks for the review, Im off to spice temple Tuesday night….now I know what to order…mmmmm pork belly
There’s something disturbing about those girl’s faces everywhere…
Oh, I wish I could get into pork! just can’t do it. The muslim background prevails, especially sad in light of the delicious eggplant dish..do you reckon they could do it with chicken or beef?
This looks like a great restaurant. I’d love to try that pork belly!
Why am I not surprised to see a pork belly dish in front of you lol! Um not sure about “The Spice Girls” cos they’re stunning. I’d be sitting there feeling um less than stunning LOL.
The pork belly looks wonderfully crisp…and the eggplant, garlic, pork mince looks great…especially for someone like me who is a garlic lover
I’m not sure if I like the concept of having those asian girls on the walls and on the menu though… 
I’m intrigued to go just to check out those toilet door locks
Right now I wish I lived in Sydney! That pork belly is killing me, in a lustful way. Great review and photos!
Aha. I actually ate here last night!
I was actually planning on avoiding this restaurant when I first heard about it, wondering what on earth possessed him to open a Chinese restaurant. I was a bit concerned that he wouldn’t pull it off. But I caved in after all of the good reviews it good.
Rather than choose dishes I went with the banquet option. I found them all excellent dishes. I’d struggle to pick a highlight, but the three shot chicken was probably close. The numbing beef was incredibly hot though. I enjoyed it, but I enjoyed it VERY CAREFULLY.
I don’t know how authentic it is (not too knowledgeable on Chinese food), but I thought the flavours used were excellent. All of the dishes were refined and balanced. The “crispy” squid was really interesting. Kind of like squid covered in a dukkah made of Chinese spices. Really nice.
They had a little sign next to the door locks with instructions so maybe they’ve fixed it.
Staff was great on the night. Knowledgeable, fun, poised, offered the right things at the right times, etc.
Value was good. Not cheap, but not expensive. Although the wine list was marked up a bit (but it’s quite extensive so I can forgive them slightly).
Cocktail list looks great. I’d love to go back and try some.
Y!!! Don’t tell everyone
It was lovely to hang out with you again darling Lorraine!
ps. You forgot the bit where I offered to give myself up for a taste of our table neighbours lobster. All in the name of food! And for you…
I went for dinner a few weeks ago and we loved it. Sorry that the fish did not meet expectations – I thought everything was fantastic (although we didn’t order that dish….)
Hi Kathy-Hmm that’s tough because value wise the regular Chinese restaurants are always better value but they don’t usually look this good or have good service so I find it hard to compare the two directly but I really enjoyed the food!
Hi Sandie-Me too! I’m getting hungry remembering my meal
Hi Anita-Yes it looks ferociously hot!
Hi Cakelaw-thankfully they were right and it wasn’t very pungent! I had some mints just in case though
Hi belle-Thankyou!
I think they’re pretty good, the noodles were just like the Uighur noodles except a bit finer. Haha yes I think the decor is certainly a talking point! 
Hi Arwen-Yes, we were really expecting something fierce the erupt out of there!
Hi shez-Yes I think the value is probably where some chinese patrons might think that it doesn’t compare as favourably but as for the food, it’s great and I have never gotten this good service at a typical chinese restaurant where it’s more matter of fact
Hi Katy-I don’t think it would have been that much spicier as the chilis were the milder ones. We asked the waitress and she said they typically leave 1/3 of the chillies in the dish. It was a touch spicy but there wasn’t much depth to the flavour from other elements.
Hi Y-I quite like the girls. I don’t mind them on the walls at all. But it’s all a talking point I suppose. I tried to forget those noises!
Hi Julie-Oh fantastic! Let us know what you order and how you found it
Hi justJENN-You see I don’t find it that weird! Then again I love looking at people’s faces and I always have fashion magazines on the coffee table so perhaps I’m used to it.
Hi Reemski-I’m sure your mum would be proud though! I’m sure they could, they’re very accommodating!
Hi Sara-It is, I want to go back and try some other dishes!
Hi Karen-Haha pork belly is food of the gods! Aww don’t be like that, I’m sure you’d compare favourably!
Hi Alexandra-OOoh yes the eggplant dish is definitely for garlic lovers although it’s not overwhelmingly so. Haha well I suppose it depends on where you sit. In the centre part you don’t really see them.
Hi Lisbeth-Haha just watch! You’ll be able to figure out out in a matter of seconds
Hi Lisa-Thanks! Hey perhaps a visit to Sydney is in order?
Hi Jobe-Ah we just ate there yesterday afternoon! I think he has always had a very good understanding of Asian food. Considering everything, it was done very well and the only thing I think some people might perhaps comment on is that the price for something similar is lower in Chinatown if you wanted to pinpoint anything. but then again I don’t think the prices were unreasonable at all, given the atmosphere, serving size and service.If I wanted a glamorous night out or wanted to impress I’d choose to eat here. Authenticity, well I don’t know if I could even begin to discuss what’s authentic in a cuisine as vast as Chinese.
Great to know that the 3 shot chicken and the beef were good. We saw them bring out the 3 shot chicken and it did look good.
Hi Christie-Haha Y is so naughty! It’s always fun darling. I didn’t think you’d want that revealed!
Hi Suzie-Excellent! What did you order? We saw so much that we wanted to order
That looks like a really cool place. What unusual menus!
I found your blog and all that I can say is FANTASTIC!!
I love this and will definately be back. I’m a caterer and am always looking for something yummy to cook and I will definately be trying some of these recipes
If you have a moment or two of your life that you’d care to waste, please visit me at my blog and say hello.
Hope your weekend is filled with much love, joy and laughter and……
Steady On
Reggie Girl
“Considering everything, it was done very well and the only thing I think some people might perhaps comment on is that the price for something similar is lower in Chinatown if you wanted to pinpoint anything. but then again I don’t think the prices were unreasonable at all, given the atmosphere, serving size and service.If I wanted a glamorous night out or wanted to impress I’d choose to eat here. ”
Couldn’t agree more on all points!
“We saw them bring out the 3 shot chicken and it did look good.”
I’m making a pot of it at the moment actually. I enjoyed it so much I had to have a shot at it!
Hi Blond Duck-They are such talking points aren’t they!
Hi Reggie Girl-Thanks very much Reggie Girl!
Hi Jobe-Great stuff! So perhaps I can have a chance to recreate that dish at home
Oooh, the pork belly looks fantastic!! And I can understand why you were disappointed with the fish… you’d expect so many chillis to transfer their heat to the fish. I’d probably have added a few chillis back to my plate.
Not sure about the ‘Spice Girls’ but it is certainly a very stylish restaurant!
Does this place offer DOG on the menu? What do the RSVP think of this??
Why didn’t you try it?
What a great review. Here in Miami, the Chinese food is pretty lame. I miss *good* Chinese. This place sounds so great!
LOL. YOu didn’t know how to lock the door? Aww, I hope no one popped their head in to see if someone had occupied it during your use. You should have taken a picture of the lock too.
But seriously. The food look soo wonderfully amazing… My mouth is watering.. I miss delectale chinese food, as there aren’t any good ones over here. -sigh-
Hi Angela-It was really good although it’s rare to meet a pork belly I didn’t like
Yes we tried that but to no taste avail! Hehe it seems people are definitely divided on the Spice Girls! 
Hi Ridves-lol no the Dog is the name of a cocktail. Do you mean the RSPCA? I’m sure they’d be fine with them naming a cocktail after a dog
Hi Carolyn-Thankyou so much! Aww no, is there a Chinatown area there? They usually yield some decent choices. It was!
Hi ArtemisIII-Yup none of us did! It said to turn the loc to the left but the lock would only go to the 6 o’clock position which wasn’t left. Luckily a man outside saw that I was having issues so he offered to mind the door
Everyone should hope for a nice man outside their toilet door.
I think we’re quite lucky here as I have heard that a lot about people in other areas.
Thanks again for a great review. We had the banquet for dinner last night and the pig cocktails. Had a great night.
By the way, there are signs on the toilet doors now saying that they are in the process of being repaired and also another advising to turn the locks fully to the left.
Sorry I forgot to bring my camera to the loo to take a pic
Hi romaverona-You’re welcome! Sounds like you had a fantastic night there
Hmm toilets being repaired! I promise we didn’t break them
We went a month ago. There were 6 of us we had drinks upstairs two of us had beers and the others had wine by the glass $90 for the round. Went downstairs had the set menu thing. It was nice – well served tasty and I enjoyed them all. Then we got the bill. $120 a head from memory. The food was no better that Spice I am and it was a really expensive night. Way over the top.
I’m a Spice Temple junkie, and can highly recommend the Stir-Fried Quail (unbelievable flavours and texures – and it all sits on a savoury egg custard), the hot sweet sour and numbing pork (on some days it’s hotter than others), the shredded lamb shoulder and the roast pork belly. Mmmmm.
I agree – the fish drowned in heavenly facing chillies is awful.
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[...] more Summery foods into the diet in the hopes that the weather should stick around. At our visit to Spice Temple several months ago, Christie recommended me a recipe for Neil Perry’s Cucumber with smashed [...]
[...] my Inner Burmese (no road sense) had struck again and I promptly got lost and I meant to walk into Spice Temple. I felt like a child walking into an adult’s domain. Everything was incredibly tall and [...]
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