I hope you’ll forgive the culinary traversing across the globe. I still haven’t finished with my New Zealand stories and now I confuse matters by putting up a Tokyo story? I wish I could say that I jetted off to Tokyo briefly but not so. This visit to Sakata Udon was my last Japan story so I thought that I should “get it out” before things became irrelevant or changed.
Having lost my faith somewhat in my Lonely Planet Tokyo edition (hopeless maps getting us lost most of the time) we had originally tried to go to Sakata Udon in Ginza only to find ourselves in front of a demolished building. Granted the fact that it had been demolished at the end of last year wasn’t Lonely Planet’s fault as they scarcely had time to update their book but the fact was we wandered around for ages trying to find the pre-demolition spot that they had given directions to. We finally found it after a bit of research and a helpful hotel concierge who had given us a proper map.
Finding restaurants in Tokyo tends to mean that you often have to look up. Literally. A lot of the great find restaurants are housed not just on the ground floor but upper floors of a grey building. Sakata Udon is on the 3rd floor or a building and it doesn’t have an English sign, just script in Japanese. It was recommended by Lonely Planet with this praise “If you eat only one meal out, you’d do well to eat it here.”
We enter and it’s all brown woods and soothing tones – we had almost expected a place like a ramen joint, a bit rough and ready but this is much nicer. We sit down and receive some refreshing chilled tea while we peruse the menu (they have an English menu although this might be abbreviated). A friend of mine recommended “Bukkake Udon” which had me almost splattering my drink in all directions when I heard the name. For those of you including my parents who don’t know what Bukkake Udon might suggest, don’t worry and don’t google it (especially if you’re my parents!). For those of you who do, it’s not what you think. Bukkake is a colloquial expression that means “throw something at/in/on” so the udon is just that.
We can see the making of the udon through a window (as well as a small window when you step out of the elevator) and before long our bukkake udon arrives (we ordered one dish cold as it’s a hot day) as well as a hot Tempura udon soup. I also get my husband a serve of Nattō, the Japanese version of Australian Vegemite that the Japanese love but I personally find repulsive but I want to hear what my husband thinks of it.
Nattō Y150
I can see that while he is chewing it, he desperately wants to like it (being a boy he wants to say that he likes really grotesque sounding food) but it’s only one mouthfull for him and the remaining Nattō goes untouched.
Bukkake Udon Y700
Our bowls of noodles are brought out on trays with raised ribbed plastic patterns to ensure that the bowls do not slip during transportation – clever! The udon is springy and a perfect consistency, garnished simply with a huge mound of grated daikon radish and ginger and sesame seeds. I would have preferred a more varied topping with some meat but this shows off the simplicity and texture of the udon well.
Tempura Udon Y900
The hot Tempura udon comes with a tempura shiso leaf, round of sweet potato, eggplant and prawn. The broth is very light and again the udon a lovely texture. I should have asked for the tempura on the side as by the time it got to me after my husband had had some, it was soggy. Still, I find this hot soup and udon sustaining and readying me for the hot weather outside.
Slurping every last drop
Since this was our last meal in Tokyo, I thought I should offer some of my tips for eating in Tokyo based on my years living there and subsequent holidays.
NQN’s tips for eating through Tokyo
- If you want an easy time of it, book a hotel with a concierge. We made full use of our hotel’s Concierge who booked the restaurants for us and gave us maps with clear directions. Do ask them to ring ahead to check whether a restaurant is open too even if they don’t take bookings.
- Addresses are next to impossible to find as the numbering system makes no sense – most places will have a website with a map on how to get there.
- Look up! Seriously, a lot of excellent restaurants are housed in tall buildings.
- The subway/trains are clean and efficient. There are three companies that service Tokyo (the Subway, Toei lines and JR) and they do not share ticketing systems so you cannot buy a pass that covers all three. You can get day passes for the subway (best if you’re seeing things just in Tokyo) and you can also get a 1 week JR rail pass but this is best for someone that wants to explore outside of Tokyo as it can be costly (Y37800). If you’re unsure of the price of the ticket you need to buy, buy the smallest amount (Y160 for subway) and when you get to your destination, use the Fare Adjustment machines (signposted in English), located near the ticket exits. They have English text button with instructions but basically put in your ticket into the Fare Adjustment Machine and if you need to add any more money to it, it will tell you and you drop the coins into the slot. Y500 coins are not accepted at the ticket machines.
- Be sure to take the correct exit, a restaurant will usually give you the best exit to leave from and unlike other cities, leaving by the best exit will really save you a lot of time and confusion as some stations have an inordinate number of exits that branch out.
- When catching taxis, the taxi driver will open the door for you from the inside. These can be a life saver if you can’t find an address, as long as you have the address written down. Taxis are clean and efficient (and Taxi drivers wear white gloves) but avoid these when traffic is bad or you’ll end up with a hefty bill.
- When dining out, you may get hit with extra charges (depending on the establishment) be it for service, tax and sometimes the Amuse Bouches!
- Cash is always best in Japan. Credit cards aren’t always accepted. If you have an overseas bank card, you can only use machines with Cirrus signs i.e. Citibank machines. You will no doubt fall upon these with much relief when you find them. Even when I lived in Japan and had a Japanese bank account, I’d feel the compulsion to take money out of my Cirrus account just in case as they’re not often easy to find. Or, best bet, withdraw your money from Narita airport to save on headaches, there are Cirrus machines there.
- Do head to a Department store food hall. You will think you have died and gone to heaven. There are so many delicious cakes and savories, ready to be packed up for you to eat at home or to give as a gift.
- Re. hotels, if you have a lot of luggage, find a hotel on the Airport Limousine Bus route. They will load your bags on and off the bus both ways and it certainly beats fighting your way through the crowded train system and the numerous stairs. Although it’s called Limousine, it’s not an actual Limousine, merely a bus that it clean and fairly comfortable.
And of course some photos from a Japanese convenience store – some of the choicest items.
Crunky ice cream-similar to Almond magnum. Love the name – I shall save that name for a particularly cranky or cantankerous person.
Sushi
Array of Pocky
Homo Sausage
Inside the Homo sausage
Ice box flavoured ice chips in a cup-a lifesaver if it’s hot!
My Pocky, Fran and Kit Kat haul
Dry Curry flavour
Sakata Udon
3rd Floor, 1-6-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: 03-3563-7400
Nearest station is Hibiya station, use Exit A4 and it is literally around the corner in the Daiyo building (I think it is Daiyo)
Vegetarian options: some
Address shown on Google map below is not accurate
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28 Comments | Add your own
Hooray for a quick visit down memory lane. Some great tips there, and I’d have to agree with most of them too. Especially getting the hotel concierge to make restaurant bookings for you (since I don’t speak the language).
Call me immature but bukkake udon makes me giggle every time =P =P
Really good Tokyo tips by the way!
OMG! This got me scurrying over to your blog to have a look!
I’m almost a little sad that this is your last Japan post, it’s so much fun seeing all the great stuff you had over there! And the tips are awesome, I will be sure to use them when I eventually visit Tokyo.
That’s a really great guide. Thanks for that! Always good to have some insider tips especially to places like Japan where things are so different. I really want to go one day
The advice for visiting Tokyo was so helpful. I’ve only been to Japan once on a short stopover and found the transport so confusing. When I decide to visit again, for a full holiday, I’ll definitely be taking your advice into account. Thanks for sharing your holiday!
Totally agree about the department stores food hall. We probably spent about half of time in Japan in these food halls, wondering up and down, buying bits and pieces, sampling, etc! They are just great. I also cannot get over how there would be great long queues to buy certain products, like a cake!?
I found that google maps for Tokyo a bit problematic. Seem to be a little off, so don’t trust them absolutely!
PS- love your blog!
I am going to have to breakdown and buy some Pocky. I see it all the time at the market and in a lot of blogs. I enjoyed your reading your post, especially all the great tips.
Unfortunately, I do know what the other meanings of bukkake is. Urr. Still interested in trying that out, though.
Hee hee bukkake udon ^^! There is a restaurant here in Sydney that has it as well… I think it is Sapporo in Crowies.. but not 100% sure. Ahhhh miss Japan so muuucchhh!!
lol at homo sausage hhahaha and we saw Ice box as well and we suddenly broke out into song (and prob scared all the ppl off haha). Lucky we didnt see the Crunky one haha! Ooh we did see a Booby Crepe though haha
Also is that an Udon movie?
The Post Office ATMs are also Cirrus, and are far more commonplace! That and Visa Debit is gaining traction, which a few Australian banks are providing now.
Ooh can’t wait to go to Japan and eat and shop for groceries and instant noodles! What an experience that must’ve been for you! I also can’t wait to try Natto, just to see what the fuss is about
Natto – yuck! Just looking at that photo alone is enough to make me feel queasy. DH loves it though, I have to leave the room when he eats it!
Bukkake… I had no idea…h
Thanks for all the tips for travelling in Japan. A mango Kit Kat – hmm, that’s one souvenir I’d like to try.
Great tips! I’d love to visit Japan one day.
bukakke
mI can’t believe that..At least the Udon looks like it was in the middle of a…oops! haha.
But I desperately love udon, and there aren’t any good Japanese places around here
That’s a small section of pocky though. Back in T.O., where I am from, there is a store dedicated to purely pocky!
Hi Y-I can’t go to Tokyo without having a good concierge, if only to help me with maps and getting around!
Hi Kathy-haha me too!
thankyou! 
Hi Steph-Aww thanks! I loved visiting Japan, I need to stop myself going back again and again! Thankyou so much!
Hi Esz-Thanks, you’re welcome! It’s such an amazing country. I love going back
Hi Cora-It can be hard to fugure out especially NY when the signs aren’t in English. Although the NY subway system totally threw me!
You’re welcome, thanks! 
Hi pojaya-Oh aren’t they great? So many goo d things to try and so fresh and some stands are so wonderfully merchandised!Haha yes, although I was very tempted to join those queues as that usually meant good food!
figure out Yes google maps are hard to figure out too. Thankyou so much! 
Hi Bethie-Oh cool! I love the stuff
If you see a Peach Decorer that’s my favourite flavour ever 
Thankyou!
Hi Jude-Hehe yes despite the fact that I knew and my husband knew we were both eager to try out the udon version
Hi FFichiban-Oh cool! And that’s closeby too! Me too, I keep wanting to go back. Ice boxes saved me during summer when it was soooo hot! haha booby crepe-what is that?
I think it was an Udon movie!
Hi karan-Really? That must be something that has happened in the last few years although I don’t think that as a tourist I went to the PO. Good to know.
Hi Karen-Convenience stores were one of my favorite haunts! I’d buy so much to snack on or take home! oh hmmm well good luck! I am not a huge fan although plenty of Japanese are! It’s very…slimey!
Hi Angela-Haha I hear you! Nothing can make me like it! Best not look up bukkake
You might have the same reaction as the natto!
Hi Cakelaw-You’re welcome!
they do some fantastic Kit Kat flavours!
Hi Bria-Thankyou! It’s a fascinating place
Hi ArtemisIII-Hahah! I love udon too although I am fussy about the texture, I don’t like it too soggy or soft. A whole store dedicated to Pocky? :O :O :O I so want to visit!
that natto looks so sticky and yummy…but I was fooled. when I tried it, I thought it was darn disgusting!
I looove the pocky sticks! I hope you got to try the green tea flavored!
I would love to visit Tokyo some day! How fun! The udon noodles are delicious.
The story of bukkake starts in ancient japan. legend has it that an unfaithful woman was taken to a secluded spot, a cave or forest glade, bound, and forced to kneel…. *comment edited by NQN as we can guess the rest…*
I’m afraid that I couldn’t resist chortling over bukkake, too. I’m just relieved that it looked tasty!
I love, love, love that you could see into the kitchen. I always feel so reassured when a restaurant lets you see what is going on. It keeps them honest.
Hi Sophia-Haha yes! It looks innocent enough…until you taste it
Yep they were great!
Hi 5 Star Foodie-It’s one of my favourite cities
They were fantastic, the nicest udon I’ve had!
Hi Muffler Man-Ha ok thanks for your comment, we could figure out the rest
Hi Angela-Haha me too. I’m sure the Japanese would just wonder why we were laughing! Yes me too, I love open kitchens too for the very same reason
OMG natto makes me gag. AND I don’t eat sushi.>worst japanese person ever<
Hi justJENN-I know, me too! I can’t like it no matter how hard I try
Very nice guide! Do they have special ramen?
Really enjoyed your sites! I frequent The Lockup in Kyoto (close to Shijo-Kawaramachi) so it was fun to see the Tokyo site.
I have lots of pics/info on my site as well, but a handy tip for something above: *every* 7-11 in the entire country now houses an International ATM. This addition to 7-11 has made them invaluable, since even in the smallest town there is a 7-11 *somewhere*. I think their ATMs are open 24 hours as well. Finding a Citibank used to be a chore. Now it’s way easier!
Happy traveling!
Marc
Hi Love Gifts-I don’t think they have ramen, only udon
Hi Marc-Thankyou! Ahh cool-how does it compare?
That is such great news! I didn’t see it when we went in one but I remember it being SUCH a pain! Thankyou! 
Thanks for the tips…I am going to Tokyo this mid-Nov. I am sure this will be very helpful. It is always good to know I can count on NQN for some advise on good food and restaurants to go and try in and outside Australia. By the way, thanks for the lovely night at the 360 bar. My husband and I had a good time with good company and good food. It was really nice to meet you in person as well. Thanks Ferrero Rondnoir and Tobie Puttock for a beautiful night to remember.
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