Monthly Archives: April, 2009

The Sultan’s Table, Enmore

For anyone inclined to grab some delicious Turkish food at The Sultan’s Table, let this review serve as a warning to avoid the fate that has plagued many visiting, including us, of being turned away without a reservation on a Saturday night. Looking like a takeaway joint from the outside, it is deceptively large with tables to dine in towards the back and a loyal and numerous clientele that already know the score. If you want to eat here on a Friday or Saturday night, it’s a good idea to book ahead by a few days.

This Saturday night we are in possession of a reservation. And a good thing too, for even as we’re dining early at 6pm, we watch a steady stream of people being turned away. For those of you that do find yourselves in the same situation, there are tables outside where you can eat your takeaway but of course it’s not quite the same.

Prices for dine in are mostly $1-2 more than for takeaway except for the plates of dips which are double the price. We presume this is to discourage people from ordering a plate of dips and sitting there for an hour. We start off with a plate of the colourful dips with Turkish bread and then order an eggplant fritter, the Sultans Kebab, Iskender Kebab, Guvec and a Kusabilli Pide all topped off with a baklava.

Service it has to be said is very charming and friendly. It seems the gruffer types are behind the counter dealing with the takeaway customers (and even then they aren’t that gruff it should be said) and the friendly ones are taking care of the restaurant. We muse that they probably split themselves up beforehand and said “Ok you like people, you deal with them, I don’t so I’ll just cook and do takeaway orders.”

Mixed dips (medium) $14 with Turkish bread $3 Clockwise from top left: carrot dip, jajik, spinach, babaganoush, chili, hummous, beetroot and spinach dip with eggplant in the centre.

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Wasabi Ice Cream

Please don’t think I am one of those nutters that eats wasabi like avocado. I can’t really tolerate the stuff as I find it the equivalent of getting a a gigantic vacuum cleaner on my sinuses. In fact I usually request my sushi sans wasabi so much is my loathing of the innocuous looking stuff. However a visit to Samurai cafe in Balmain a while ago brought us face to face with wasabi ice cream. I didn’t want to try it but I did and it was so mild with only a small tingle at the end that I actually liked it.

Wasabi ice cream

I’ve used a cream based crème anglaise base -I do have an ice cream maker but with the insane amount of baking and freezing I’ve been doing, it would take a minor miracle to clear the necessary space in my freezer for the mixing bowl to freeze.

Wasabi ice cream

And of course I love my Nigella measuring spoons which are so beautifully crafted and ergonomic that using them makes me endlessly happy (ok I’m easily satisfied). The spoon measurement that I’ve used is the “pinch” size. I’ve given a recipe for a half portion as I do realise that it’s not to everyone’s taste. I don’t want people asking me what on earth to do with a sinus clearing ice cream to which I wouldn’t have the faintest idea as I usually give it to my wasabi loving husband.

Wasabi ice cream

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Nepalese Food and Cultural Festival

Being invited to the Opening of the Nepalese Food and Cultural Festival is an exciting thing indeed, especially where are people with Ambassador titles also in attendance. This evening, Mr NQN and I are excited to be in attendance of the launch of the Nepalese Food and Cultural festival at the Grove restaurant in the Sydney Stamford Airport.

Nepalese dancers

Why at this hotel? Well apparently there are quite a few Nepalese staff members including a chef working here – in fact there are about 40,000-50,000 Nepalese in Australia. Flawed or unflawed, I usually measure how big a community is based on the number of restaurants there are and I only know of two in Sydney. This rule is promptly thrown out as I realise that it doesn’t apply here. The Nepalese community has their own newspaper and this day is the start of 2066 according to their calender.

After the speeches from the H.E Ambassador of Nepal, Mr Yogendra Dhakal and the Hon. Minster Verginia Judge MP and other dignitaries we’re led downstairs to the Grove restaurant. The Nepalese chef Sher shows us the dishes along with the spices used in traditional Nepalese cuisine. Typical spices used are cumin seed, coriander seed, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, mustard seeds and tamarind paste.

Steamed Momos with spicy sauce

He shows us the Steamed Momo’s which are Nepalese dumplings made with chicken and traditional Nepalese spices with a black sesame sauce. These are said to be the first things that visitors are served. The sauce is deceptively fiery and tingly with the tongue and lips quivering for some time afterward which I have to admit is a new sensation for me as I’ve never experienced it when eating.

Kashiko Masu or Male goat meat curry braised with onions, cumin, coriander, chillies and flavoured with Himalayan spices

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Almond, Cinnamon & Maple Brittle

A while back I made a Crema Catalana, a Spanish version of Creme Brulee that I was over the moon in raptures with. I adored the way that the cinnamon spoke to the orange zest and how they played so well with the cream and toffee. Now that I have a sugar thermometer I feel like I should make use of it and the one thing I had been dying to make was a candy. Not the American sense of candy, where candy means chocolate but candy as in lollies. Problem is that I don’t go much for lollies as such (owing to a looming trip to the dentist). But what I do adore is Peanut Brittle.

I don’t know anyone that doesn’t love Maple Syrup. Whether you’ve grown up on the fake stuff and then grown to love the real stuff or had discerning enough parents to always buy you the real stuff it’s simply magic.

I will admit that life, or at least this recipe, is a lot easier if you do have a sugar thermometer as you will need to reach the hard crack stage and dipping your pinkie in to ferocious 300F temperatures is simply not an option. Otherwise you can test for the hard crack stage by dropping a little into a bowl of cold water and after waiting for a couple of minutes (it’s very, very hot, even for those with asbestos hands) it will form hard threads and will break like you want your brittle to when you snap it. It’s also important to make sure that you use a heavy based saucepan for the job and if you have cast iron use that instead of aluminium as aluminium tends to have hot spots. However out of the two pieces of pan advice you definitely want to use a heavy based saucepan. I learned the hard way when I stepped away and I had a frightening mess that my steel wool wielding husband had to clean up. Upon reflection it was probably not the wisest decision to make these just before my trip to the dentist but logic plays little part in greed.

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Piccolo Bar: a Kings Cross icon

On our way to meet Queen Viv at Piccolo Bar in Kings Cross (said to be the oldest cafe in Kings Cross), Queen Viv calls my mobile to tell me to switch Radio FBI on. For who else is being interview but Vittorio, the face of Piccolo Bar, the tiny, cozy little cafe which has taken up residence in Kings Cross since 1950. Unfortunately just as the interview is starting we go through the tunnel and miss most of it. Ah well, it only makes us more interested in meeting up there. It’s been about 15 years since my last visit.

We walk past the tables and Vittorio is outside giving me a good look up and down as if I’ve fallen from a spaceship. I learn that this is how he looks at all new customers and that he is certainly a character. There’s a $3 minimum (how these things charm me) and when my husband comes in, he does the same looking at him closely from the side, head cocked horizontally. It’s a tiny space, much like the name suggests and in its heydey they crammed 25 people into the inner cafe, which if you’ve visited, you’ll see that it’s quite a feat.

Vittorio’s eccentric charm isn’t lost on us and he floats about collecting plates and taking orders. He playfully and dramatically scolds a young girl on a mobile phone telling her to get off the “devil’s tool” and proudly says that he doesn’t own one. I ask him about the numerous Cate Blanchett pictures dotting the landscape and he clasps his hands together and assumes a dreamy countenance “Oh I Looooove her! I adore her, she’s like an angel” he trills. And no she hasn’t visited ;)

Books offered to us by Vittorio

We make our order and the chef cooks everything one at a time. Regulars file in and get a familiar greeting. A Matthew McConaughey lookalike says that he feels like soup so the chef gives him some soup to taste. Vittoria stops by our table and in an avuncular gesture, plonks down some second hand books for us and asks us if we’d like to take some books home with us. His charm offensive is taking effect.

Queen Viv orders a toasted turkish bread with artichokes,avocado, mushroom and cheese.

Omelette with up to 3 filling $8.50

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