“You just don’t know how to hold the reservation and that’s really the most important part of the reservation, the holding. Anybody can just take them.” A quote from Seinfled is usually how I like to begin my days and on this sunny Winter’s Day on Woolloomooloo wharf, my dining companion Carbon Debit has called me while I am on my way to China Doll for our lunch with Soph. They seem to have lost our reservation. Thankfully, unlike Seinfeld, there is no issue getting us a table outside. We deduce that they probably misspelt it and possibly have it under the wrong name. Seinfeld moment over.
It’s a long time coming this visit to China Doll. It was spurred on by the recent apperance of the chef Frank Shek on the Australian version of Masterchef. I was not an instant convert to the show. I disliked the way they seemed to wring every bit of emotion or tears out of the contestants and play the sappy, emotional music to bring out what little emotion there was. Where was the cooking? Finally after the selection process, they started the real show and I’ve been glued ever since (did anyone catch the appearance of the Brad Pitt of the foodie world Adriano Zumbo the other week?). I’ve even gotten used to George Calombaris’s comments like “make the food look as if it had fallen on the plate like autumn leaves” and now find them endearing. Then there’s Matt Preston’s incongruous pleasure face – you know the one where when he eats his facial expression looks as though he’s repulsed by the food, only for him to say how wonderful it is.
I disgress, we’re back to China Doll on Woolloomooloo Wharf and for the Russell Crowe fans, yes Woolloomooloo Wharf is where his apartment lies (although we miss out on any Russ sightings). This is one of Sydney’s nicer looking Chinese restaurants and when I sit down I see familiar blue and white plates that just happen to be the exact ones that we use at home every day. This blue and white plate pattern is echoed throughout the whole restaurant with a wall in the same pattern and the small version of the plates on the toilet doors.
Our waiter is friendly and comes back a few times for our order as we’re busy catching up. We ask him for the specialties and he gives us about half a dozen and we choose among them. The menu is a pan Asian one with Japanese and Malaysian influences but since it’s supposed to be a Cantonese restaurant we try and go for the Cantonese dishes (with the exception of the sashimi). Service is good throughout the day from him although there is one waitress who seems determined to follow the Chinese waiter’s version of service and without finesse, dumps the plates on the table wordlessly.
Hiramasa Kingfish & Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi w Blackened Chilli Dressing $25
The dishes don’t take long to arrive. The Hiramasa Kingfish & Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi with Blackened Chilli Dressing is simply but beautifully plated. The rich, spicy sauce is drizzled on top and it lies on a bed of thinner than matschstick thin batons of crisp green apple. I particularly like the Kingfish.
Kurobuta Pork & Peanut San Choy Bao 4 pieces for $18
The Kurobuta Pork & Peanut San Choy Bao is an interesting take on San Choy Bao. The pork is almost entirely glistening cubes of fat and as expected is very rich and the peanut gives it an interesting twist on the normal duck and water chestnut San Choy Bao filling.
Steamed Half Shell Scallops with Ginger, Shallots & Sesame$4 each
The Steamed Half Shell Scallops with Ginger, Shallots & Sesame are delicious and subtly flavoured with the ginger, shallot and sesame (although Carbon Debit and I prefer very fat scallops).
Tea Smoked Free Range Thirlmere Duck with Plum & Tamarind Sauce$38
The Tea Smoked Free Range Thirlmere Duck with Plum & Tamarind Sauce could be a more plentiful doppelganger in looks with Kylie Kwong’s duck dish but with sliced cumquats instead of mandarin or plum. The flavour, particularly in some pieces, is very strong with star anise, a flavour I like but in moderation and overall it’s not too bad.
Wok Fried Blue Swimmer Crab & Chinese Mushroom Omlette with XO sauce $40
Our last main is a very impressive looking omelette stuffed with crab and mushroom. The portion of this is quite large and it’s delicious, packed full of delicate blue swimmer crab, bean sprouts and mushrooms and a touch of XO in the sauce (although I would have preferred more XO).
We have a quick look at the dessert menu-it’s a moot point as we’re also full and we know that the dessert menu is never the highlight on a Chinese menu. The sun disappears and on this afternoon so do we. I join Mr NQN and we go to see the Vivid light show held on the Harbour from the 26th of May until the 14th of June. There are some amazing shows and displays of light and the crowd favourite judging by the numbers was the Fire Water display where they re-enacted a scene in which a convict ship was burnt down -very convincingly I might add!
Another favourite display was the patterns of light projected on the MCA including a Yayoi Kusama print.
The Opera House also got the same treatment with changing patterns.
And we finished off the evening with a Kransky from Playfair cafe in the Rocks (eaten in haste so no photos were taken) and an ice cream from Gelatissimo (the green apple being the favourite).
So tell me Dear Reader, who is your favourite to win on Masterchef? Or who do you not want to win? And what do you think of the judges?
China Doll
Shop 4, 6 Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo NSW
Phone: 02 9380 6744
Lunch Monday to Saturday: 12 – 3pm
Dinner Monday to Saturday: 6 – 10:30pm
Sunday: 6 – 8:45pm
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47 Comments | Add your own
What fanatastic photos as usual. that buildings are really nice. wish to see them. Ha I ve got plates just like those
Not happy about the girls up for elimination tonight: I want either of them to win. I do NOT want Chris to win (smug little so and so) or Andre (doesn’t know what star anise is?)
Out of the judges, Gary is my fav, Matt is growing on me, but his bobble heading is annoying. George I knew of before Masterchef from Ready Steady Cook, but he has become my least fav now. Talk with your hands much?
My top pick is julie.
Great now that i’ve said that, i bet she will be eliminated tonight.
I totally agree with you on Masterchef, I thought it was awful at first but now I’m watching it every night. I can’t stand Sam though, what a teacher’s pet. Oh wow I love the Yayoi Kusama prints on the MCA, how cool!
Geez – Matt Preston is everywhere today. The SMH, youtube (if you haven’t already, search on youtube for “Crikey Matt Preston”) and now NQN. Julia to win.
Cheers
md
What beautiful plates! Yummy – the shallots and the duck are mine. The Vivid light show photos are gorgeous – thanks for sharing these.
My Great Auntie Bea used to use Willow Pattern, too. If I were a millionnaire, I’d have a room dedicated to tableware, and I’d have to include some of this! Those light shows look spectacular. Can’t see Masterchef here…
Ooooh you missed dessert. I’m a big fan of their sago pudding and black sticky rice there!
The duck is incredible, i’m a big fan of anise so i think the flavours are lovely
Do we really want to get into the Masterchef debate? Yes we do! Go Julie. Andre is a dork. And Matt Preston is great. Have you seen the tribute to him on YouTube?
I remember well that episode of Seinfeld. I had an Elaine moment on the DC Metro. You eat on some beautiful plates everyday! Wish I could have seen the Sydney lights!
My daughter Gabriella and I are glued to Masterchef every night,(we record it and fast forwards the ads lol ), we just love it and it’s getting so intense and exciting now that there are only a few remaining. Too hard to pick the winner at this stage because just when you think you have an idea ,they stuff up and fall back of the pack. However, I’ve always thought that Julia and Lucas were the quiet achievers, so let’s see. The judges are so different, they bring their own personalities to the show but I like Matt , he’s so Suave, and you can tell he eats,lives,breathes food !!
As for China Doll that’s definitely a must go, we dined at Manta last year which was excellent.
Perfect timing with the post. I have a generous voucher for China Doll squirreled away for a special occasion and it’s nice to know beforehand what’s good and what’s not. The kingfish and crab sure look yummy.
As for Masterchef I’m in a similar baot to you. It’s growing on me although the use of hyperboles like “you’re cooking for your life” almost incite bouts of domestic violence on my poor bf.
the duck does look very much like Kylie Kwong’s. i liked your Seinfeld reference hehe
I love masterchef and its the only non-cartoon that my 6yr old is glued to! Its become a family activity for us. I knew any child of mine cannot help being a foodie.
I like Matt. I think Gary is a very knowledgeable chef. I find George to be pretentious with nothing but a cheap repertoire of the most inane cliches that I want to hurl something at the TV when he opens his mouth.
Whoa…that tirade aside, I don’t think Sam or Julie deserve to win. I am reserving judgement on who should win, until I see the finalists in action because we haven’t really seen much of the guys that went straight thru to the finals.
oooooh. i missed the light show
masterchef masterchef…hrm…..
i think i’d like julia or justine to win. lucas’s performance is always up and down, and i really dont wish to see andre win this (sorry!)
i loveeeee all the judges. i think they are very supportive towards the contestants, unlike most of the reality show nowadays. i spotted all three of them and manu feildel at l’etoile, but i didn’t bring my camera at that time. what a shame!
We had those plates too! I think my mum bought them from Woolies haha.
The sashimi looks really amazing!
the name of the restaurant is a it icky, lol!
And the same pattern even on toilet doors? wahaha! Great observation!
Man…Sydney is truly beautiful. I love all your pictures…but the omelet one calls out to me most!
Hopelessy addicted to Masterchef. Not the same as the UK version, but good all the same. One of the J girlies to win. Please get rid of Sam. Love all the judges, except when they talk about ‘canopies’. I actually found an old Gourmet Traveller at work with a story on an “extraordinarily technically proficient and youthfully curious’ chef called George Colombaris. I didn’t recognise him in the photo becasue he had HAIR.
China Doll is favourite with management at work. That omelette looks divine!
I want Julie or Chris to win! And of course I don’t want Julie to be out tonight!!!
The omelette looks really good. I missed out on seeing the fire water, I had planned to go… but running late to dinner reservations + too much sangria got in the way of those plans!
I want Justine to win! For a 23 year old she’s so mature and talented. I think either Chris or Justine will win!
As for the judges, I can’t stand Matt!
Yum – scallops!
Chris has been my favourite since the top 10-14 or so. I know he appears quite arrogant but he’s probably the best so it doesn’t bother me – I want him to win. Julie is my second favourite – since she’s gotten most of her nerves under control when under pressure! I think Gary & Matt are great – not a huge fan of George though, he’s so aggressive when he speaks!
I love the pattern on the MCA, and it’s good to hear Mr NQN is back in action.
My partner and I are totally addicted to Masterchef, I was up till one last night watching the recorded episode and really tired today!! Can’t stand George, his tablemanners leave a lot to be desired and ‘taking things to another level’ repeated every time is boring. I would like one of the girls to win, definitely not Sam, Andre, Chris or Lucas so that leaves…..the girls! We have tried some of the recipes too – stuffed squid was lovely and prawns Saganaki delicious.
I once made a booking at a restaurant and went in to find they didn’t have this booking. The restaurant was fabulous about it – they didn’t miss a beat and put us in a table all the same.
After I finished the meal, I came to the realization that the restaurant I was in was NOT the place I had booked! I had for some reason, got names and locations mixed up and I had booked the ADJACENT restaurant.
Very confusing. Very embarrassing. But it was such a great meal – worth it in the end
.
Love your website. The photos are always so crisp and clear.
Masterchef – we are all addicted in my family! Even husband and eldest son want to learn to cook because of this show. That has to be good! I think the girls were ripped off last night. They should not be at elimination tonight. It will be sad to see one of them go as I don’t think either deserve to be there. My family all love Justine, but as a mother Julie gets my vote.
So glad to hear your husband is up and about again and survived Manly Hospital.
Regards and keep up your good work.
Linda
LOL Yes Matt Preston’s facial expressions are so fuuny! The more it looks like he’s in pain the more wonderful he declares the food. The stuffed omelette looks so good!All the stuffing is nice and parallel! hehe
and I say go JULIE!
I got to Vivid on the last day of Fire Water only to be told the boat burning just finished!
Thanks for the photo!
The Vivid lighting was great, wasn’t it?
As for Master Chef, go Julia and Julie!
The san choy bau looks amazing! So funny, when I saw the pic of the duck I thought ‘that looks like Kylie Kwong’s orange duck at Billy Kwong’ – great mnds think alike
(I suppose it helps we eat out alot!)
I’ve eaten at China Doll a few times over the years and never had a bad meal or moment there. It’s always consistent.
As for Masterchef…I only started getting into it the last month. Initially I found it too “put on”. I’m hoping for julie to win but I can see they really like Chris. The biggest surprise for me has been Matt Preston…I quite like his commentary. I just wished they got rid of that cravat!
Is that chanel nail polish I spy? Did you manage to get the Rouge Noir when it came out. Back to food our Masterchef in the uk we have to put up with Lloyd Grossman , and he really lives up to his name.
Hi snooky doodle-Thankyou! It was a great display. Hehe how funny!
Hi Tara-Yes I was shocked when Justine got eliminated tonight. I was sure that she’d be a finalist!
Haha yes it’s funny how the judges grow on you!
Hi Steph-Yes the first few episodes were totally awful. Sam is my hubby’s least fave and I have to say he doesn’t
seem to be in the same calibre as the rest. Isn’t it the coolest?
Hi md-Haha yes I saw that on youtube-hilarious! I think you might be right!
Hi Cakelaw -Thankyou! It’s quite strange being at a restaurant and eating off the same plates you have at home
You’re welcome!
Hi Angela-Ahh cool! Yes me too, I love to buy it although I don’t have the room. Ah yes what a shame! Although there
might be some episodes on youtube butit’s probably not the same.
Hi sarah-Yeah that was a a lot of food for lunch for 3 girls!
Hi Belle-Yes we do!
Yes, it’s funny and I’m not surprised they did one!
Hi Barbara-Oh really? Which Elaine moment did you have?
Thankyou! 
Hi Matilda-Ahh good idea
Yes like tonight’s episode. What a surprise that Justine got kicked out! 
My friend
listens to Matt Preston on the radio and says that he sounds like a nice guy.OH yes Manta looks fantastic!
Hi Forager-Oh cool! Well a sunny Winter’s Day is a gorgeous time to lunch outside. The sashimi was gorgeous, if not really Cantonese
ROFL yes “Cook as if your life depends on it” 
Hi Simon-Yes although I think there was more here. Elaine and Jerry’s voices were going through my head when my friend rang
Hi Shants-Oh that’s very cool!
I felt that way about George but I thought it was more overenthusiastic passion?
Yes I haven’t seen much of Julia or Lucas but Julia does seem quite solid.
Hi ange-What a shame!
Yes I’m not a huge Andre follower. Oh wow, that’s amazing. What a great star spot! 
Hi Mr Taste-Woolies? Really?
It was fantastic-so lovely and fresh 
Hi Sophia-Oh really? Why is that? Yep the omelet is right up your alley
Maybe you could do your own version of it? 
Hi Megan-Yes it’s really not like the UK version at all. OH yes canopies! It’s so jarring. Whenever he says it
there’s an alarm in my head
LOL the exact same thing happened to me when I was in a waiting room. He had heaps of hair and it wasn’t that long ago!
Hi isLa-Hey you were right!
Hi Betty-Haha yes it was so crowded and sangria wouldn’t have helped negotiate those crowds!
Hi Min Ai-What a shame she was eliminated. I agree she’s very together and organised. Haha too much cravat?
Hi Zam-The funny thing is that I don’t think Chris comes across as arrogant, more confident and I liked the fact
that he helped out others. Haha poor George he’s not so popular!
Hi Arwen-They were gorgeous! This was a few weeks ago before he got sick
Hi sally-Hehe I totally understand! I think the girls are particularly good. I admit I am not quite feeling the Sam or Andre vibe though. How wonderful, good on you for trying the recipes!
Hi Cora-Hehe that is so funny! It happens to the best of us. In fact it happened to one of my intrepid dining companions Queen Viv so you are in great company
Sounds like it was meant to be if the food was great!
Hi Linda-Thankyou so much!
That is absolutely wonderful news 
Yes I agree, neither of them should have left.
Thanks, this story was a couple of weeks ago but I picked him up from hospital this afternoon
Thankyou!
Hi K-I know! It must scare the contestants watching his expression as he eats
Yes they did it very expertly!
Hi Vivz-Aww what a shame! Did you catch the rest of it though? It was great! You’re welcome
Hi Sarah-It was fabulous and I like how they’ve staged things for Winter to make people go out. Looks like they might both be finalists after tonight!
Hi Christie-Haha yes great minds indeed darling
Perhaps too much? 
Hi Peter-That’s good to hear-it’s so important in a restaurant. Yes it was very forced at the beginning. Oh yes the cravats, I wonder how many he has!
Hi DeLaCour-Yes you have an eagle eye! It’s Chanel’s Kaleidoscope and yep I got Rouge Noir (along with practically all the dark polishes
) Oh no, that sounds terrible!
I’ve got the willow pattern china from Woolies too! The photos are fantastic, particularly the buildings lit up on the harbour. Like you, I wasn’t too keen on Masterchef at the beginning but now we are down to a handful, it is getting addictive. Very sorry to see Justine go tonight, she was extremely mature and talented for her age, will have to back Julie now. The boys should NOT have won the extreme HK challenge!
everytime i hear about china doll, it does make me curious because it’s hard to imagine a modern chinese restaurant! growing up in a chinese household, you almost becoming immune to chinese food!
first of all, “woolloomooloo” is just plain fun. secondly, green apple ice cream? yes please, and yes again! my tastebuds are so deprived.
Awesome Vivid Sydney piccies – especially the burning Three Bees! And that crab rolled omelette sounds really innovative – I can almost taste it… mmm
Wooo duck looks very good – though I’m not a big fan of star anise (Ugh, how un-asian of me on this.) the restaurant looks like a very cool place!
I’ve got to confess – due to late nights @ work, I only managed to watch Masterchef once… missing out!! (but luckily it was the day with Adriano Zumbo!)
Ooh the duck does look good though… Do you recommend China Doll or Billy Kwong?
Do you remember the Seinfeld episode when Elaine is hurrying to get somewhere on the crowded subway and you can hear her thoughts.
Hi Moya-It seems like so many people have it! Such a nice pattern though
Thankyou! Yes I think they knew that they shouldn’t have won too! 
Hi Panda-Yes that is true! But then again I get a craving for it if I don’t have it for a while
Hi grace-Haha yes we have some truly amazing names here. How about Bellimbopinni? That’s a place in Northern NSW
Hi Tina-Thankyou! It was hard to get a good shot of that! That was really so good
Hi Yas-Haha no really?
I like it in moderation but not too heavy-handed. It was pretty nice to have lunch on the water 
Aww no, only one episode! But you made it a good one! 
Hi FFichiban-Hmmn that’s a hard one. Oh so hard.. well China Doll for the ambience for sure, I did not like the ambience/crowded tables/having to queue and eat at 6pm at Billy Kwong. Food wise Billy Kwong’s is perhaps a bit better but China Doll has other asian food as well and the sashimi was divine. I preferred the BK duck though.
Hi Barbara-Haha oh yes! Here’s to having Seinfeld moments in real life!
Have not been to China Doll, as I wasn’t too impressed by Frank from his Limeleaves days in Melb. His boss from there (and perhaps current one too, judging by the duck) is to trawl the restaurants du jour and be ‘inspired’ by the dishes tried. As for Masterchef, it was ironic for the judges to pan molecular gastronomy considering George used to own and cook at Reserve (which failed miserably but that was perhaps Melbourne is not quite the food capital it likes to think it is!) which was entirely molecular! As for Mr Preston, hmm, drama queen extraordinaire. Gary, I’m given to believe according to very reliable sources, is quite the gentleman. George’s ‘westie’ (Fountaingate perhaps, given he’s Melburnian!!) roots surfaces each episode without fail, not least his routine use of hideously clichéd phrases.
Ok, enough vitriol. My vote? As long as its not Chris (smug and evil) or Sam (too too ignorant to be ‘masterchef’).
Gobsmack’d
My family are sick of me being addicted to this show. I hear they are in the making of having a celebrity version. Julie is from the Central Coast where I live so I’m kind of going for her. I thought Justine would win but sadly not. I think Chris has a chance as he works well under pressure, I think Andre and Sam don’t cut it and Lucas has never done anything for me. I was shocked when he won the challenge. Julia we don’t see much of but she will have an advantage. I love cooking with a passion but I wouldn’t have even got through the first episode with the pressure these people are put under. About the judges – George annoys me as I think he tries too hard to be like Jamie Oliver when he tags “yeh??” on the end of every sentence. I really like Gary and think he speaks well and is very fair.
Anyway, just wanted to say that I’m taking my 2 kids to Fort Dennison Cafe tomorrow (after reading your review) and I’m using the Enliven card which I didn’t know about. I love eating at unusual venues.
Hi gobsmack’d-Ahh interesting! Hmm the duck is very much like the KK one! Hehe well at least Gary is a nice guy!
I would feel rather disappointed otherwise.
Hi Connie-Hehe are they now! But it’s getting to the interesting bit now so you can’t switch off now!
Yes George’s mannerisms are very Gordon Ramsay. I wonder if it is put on or whether he was always like that. Oh that’s wonderful! I hope you liked it and you had some beautiful weather to match 
Just had to say Lorraine that the heavens turned on the most perfect weather for our wonderful lunch at Fort Dennison Cafe. We had the first of a change of menu for the new season. (No fish pie which I was hoping for but I wasn’t disappointed).The food was to die for but the only criticism I had was that there was no bread with the meals or vegetables. The only “sides” were chips @ $8 or garden salad @ $8. I would have liked bread with the meals and another 1/2 portion added to the meal to fill us up. The wine was very expensive and we had a 10% surcharge but I was prepared for all that and with the Enliven Card it certainly helped. Thanks for the recommendation. I will certainly recommend and go back myself. Would love to go for New Year (in my dreams).
Hi Connie-That’s great to hear!
Interesting, I wonder how often they change the menu? Yes that is true, there wasn’t any bread which would have been nice. How did you find the meals in terms of taste? Shame about the wine! You’re more than welcome and I’m glad you got some beautiful Winter Sun. Hehe yes wouldn’t that be nice to go there on NYE!
To answer your question Lorraine about Fort Dennison Cafe. I could not fault the meals as far as taste – they were a taste sensation. my daughter had pumpkin ravioli with sage butter – yum. My adventurous son had pork belly on mash for the first time and loved it. In fact, he phoned me today to say he has had it since somewhere else. I had salt cured salmon with an interesting salsa which was to die for. I have since replicated the salmon and I am dying to try the salsa.
Hi Connie-Oh that’s good to knwo thatthe new menu is good
And great to know that your son is an adventurous eater too! It’s great when restaurants meals give you inspiration to cook things at home too!
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