It’s a cold, cold Winter’s night the evening we head across the bridge for Emmilou, a Tapas style restaurant in Surry Hills. It seems that no matter how many layers I wear (four), the wind penetrates to my core and when we see something floating down softly from the sky my husband and I say to each other in unison “It’s probably snow”.
When we reach the warmly lit Emmilou on Bourke Street, we rush straight past the covered outdoor section into the warm centre of the restaurant. Doors are closed to keep us warm and Chris and Joel from Emmilou are welcoming hosts. Chris Cranswick -Smith, the owner and head Chef had emailed me earlier extending an invitation to dine at Emmilou and having walked past this place only a few weeks ago I happily accepted. The difference between Chris and other Head Chefs? He spends a lot of the time on the floor getting to know the customers and seeing their reactions to meals.
Chris Cranswick-Smith
I have a quick browse of the cocktail menu and a couple of things catch my eye there including “Hot Buttered Rum” and “Vote for Pedro” which has Pedro Ximinez Sherry, Dark Cacao, Grand Marnier warmed & served with Turkish Coffee Ice Cream. I figure I’ll go for those at the end. For now though I leave myself in the hands of Chris, who you may have caught on Ready Steady Cook which plays on Channel 10 at 2pm on weekdays. He has just finished filming 29 episodes so no doubt he’ll be on again. He asks if I have any allergies or dislikes and I tell him that apart from kidneys and tripe, I am fine.
Before you leave, will you sleep with me? Somehow in French it doesn’t seem so sleazy…
The walls inside are scrawled with French sayings cataloging the propositions from one staff member to the other. One such phrase translates to “Before you leave, will you sleep with me?”. On one wall plays a black and white movie and above us, music plays although it’s still easy to talk. Diners sit in Philippe Starck Ghost chairs and I take this opportunity to convince my husband that we need some in our new place. They bring out a large bottle of Cabreiroa Spanish mineral water.
Amuse Bouche: Cauliflower beignet
We start with the amuse bouche, a delicate cauliflower beignet with mushroom foam. It’s a delicious start to the meal with the cauliflower aroma strong and the bite sized beignet is nice and crisp. Accompanying this is a soft, spongey house made raisin bread with a spicy tomato chutney – and it’s spicy with a nice kick. “I like chili” confesses Cranswick Smith says. His dishes are mostly Spanish, with many from the Basque region as well as having French influences as he has lived and worked in all areas.
Sliced Queso Manchego, Cherry Syrup and Croutons$18
The Pinchos y Picas part of the menu is the Basque section and from this we start with slices of Queso Manchego cheese with a sweet cherry syrup and crispy croutons. There’s also a streak of garlic alioli (similar to aioli) which provides a savoury contrast to the sweet cherry syrup.
Gilda: White Anchovy, Olive & Pickled Pepper (pic above) with Cured Wild Boar (pic below) and ‘Alioli’
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