It’s a cold, cold Winter’s night the evening we head across the bridge for Emmilou, a Tapas style restaurant in Surry Hills. It seems that no matter how many layers I wear (four), the wind penetrates to my core and when we see something floating down softly from the sky my husband and I say to each other in unison “It’s probably snow”.
When we reach the warmly lit Emmilou on Bourke Street, we rush straight past the covered outdoor section into the warm centre of the restaurant. Doors are closed to keep us warm and Chris and Joel from Emmilou are welcoming hosts. Chris Cranswick -Smith, the owner and head Chef had emailed me earlier extending an invitation to dine at Emmilou and having walked past this place only a few weeks ago I happily accepted. The difference between Chris and other Head Chefs? He spends a lot of the time on the floor getting to know the customers and seeing their reactions to meals.
Chris Cranswick-Smith
I have a quick browse of the cocktail menu and a couple of things catch my eye there including “Hot Buttered Rum” and “Vote for Pedro” which has Pedro Ximinez Sherry, Dark Cacao, Grand Marnier warmed & served with Turkish Coffee Ice Cream. I figure I’ll go for those at the end. For now though I leave myself in the hands of Chris, who you may have caught on Ready Steady Cook which plays on Channel 10 at 2pm on weekdays. He has just finished filming 29 episodes so no doubt he’ll be on again. He asks if I have any allergies or dislikes and I tell him that apart from kidneys and tripe, I am fine.
Before you leave, will you sleep with me? Somehow in French it doesn’t seem so sleazy…
The walls inside are scrawled with French sayings cataloging the propositions from one staff member to the other. One such phrase translates to “Before you leave, will you sleep with me?”. On one wall plays a black and white movie and above us, music plays although it’s still easy to talk. Diners sit in Philippe Starck Ghost chairs and I take this opportunity to convince my husband that we need some in our new place. They bring out a large bottle of Cabreiroa Spanish mineral water.
Amuse Bouche: Cauliflower beignet
We start with the amuse bouche, a delicate cauliflower beignet with mushroom foam. It’s a delicious start to the meal with the cauliflower aroma strong and the bite sized beignet is nice and crisp. Accompanying this is a soft, spongey house made raisin bread with a spicy tomato chutney – and it’s spicy with a nice kick. “I like chili” confesses Cranswick Smith says. His dishes are mostly Spanish, with many from the Basque region as well as having French influences as he has lived and worked in all areas.
Sliced Queso Manchego, Cherry Syrup and Croutons$18
The Pinchos y Picas part of the menu is the Basque section and from this we start with slices of Queso Manchego cheese with a sweet cherry syrup and crispy croutons. There’s also a streak of garlic alioli (similar to aioli) which provides a savoury contrast to the sweet cherry syrup.
Gilda: White Anchovy, Olive & Pickled Pepper (pic above) with Cured Wild Boar (pic below) and ‘Alioli’
“Curing is a bit of an obsession of mine” says Cranswick-Smith and indeed this Wild Boar takes 10 weeks in total to cure. It’s deliciously soft and smooth with the expectant saltiness. There’s a smidge of the tomato chutney and alioli and if I were to say anything negative it’s that I wish for more of these to spread on the little toasts with the cured Wild Boar. The White Anchovy is a creamier, milder version of the brown anchovy and combined with the pickled pepper it is salty, briney and crunchy.
Sardine on Toast with Sweet Chilli Salsa
I’m usually ambivalent about sardines, having had some previous bad experiences. Mr NQN is also not a great cooked fish eater, particularly of “fishy tasting” fish but we both agree that these small pop in the mouth morsels fall into the very good category. Not too fishy, it’s balanced by the sweetness that doesn’t become too sweet. If anything the sweetness just offers balance as opposed to a sweet taste.
Bacalao $11
The Bacalao is traditional Salted Cod, Roast Tomato Sauce and Sourdough Wafers. It’s thinly sliced instead of the usual mince and it’s salty (of course) and placing a little on the garlicky toast rounds with some of the tomato chutney and alioli (again I’d love more of these) it is a tasty, salty combination.
Pimiento y Queso de Cabra Warm Piquillo Pepper, Goats Cheese, Truffle Honey and Sweet & Spicy Almonds $18
One thing Mr NQN likes much more than me is sweet flavours in savoury dishes. I don’t dislike them but I’m not as taken. So he likes this goat’s cheese stuffed pepper. I like the creamy, almost souffle like goat’s cheese stuffing but for me there are a few too many flavours including the sweet and spicy almonds which I feel lend an almost Asian taste to the dish but my husband loves it.
Calamar Relleno $21
The item that I am in love with is the Stuffed Baby Squid with Sweet Breads, Pumpkin Puree and a Smoked Bacalao Sauce. The sweetbreads (pancreas) are dipped in a light gluten free Tempura batter and fried until light and crispy and then cut in half. It’s stuffed with a delicious pumpkin and raisin filling and the squid is so tender and soft, I’ve elbowed Mr NQN out of the way in a quick “You don’t want this do you? OK I’ll finish it…”
Chorizo Asado $22
The rich tomato based House Made Spiced Chorizo Sausage and Baby Octopus usually comes with mussels but they are out tonight. It’s a nice sauce to go along with the tender octopus and peppery chorizo although a piece of the soft bread would be great to mop up the sauce.
Ceviche de Salmón $23
The ceviche of Blackened Salmon, Spiced Beetroot and Apple Cider Vinaigrette is Mr NQN’s forte with the sweet pickled beetroot giving the dish a sweetness which is too sweet for me but just right for Mr NQN.
Carne Coccido con Castanas $27
The last item is the Braised Beef Brisket which is braised in a gorgeously rich sauce. With an Asian flavour to it courtesy of the Star Anise and Cinnamon, there are 3 fat pieces of delicious, unctuous beef brisket sitting atop a bed of shredded brussel sprouts, chestnuts and fried onion. It’s a great end to the savoury courses and ensures that the diner leaves with their belly stuffed to ward off the cold Winter winds.
Canutillos Rellenos $12
We didn’t think we had room but then the mention of Stuffed Cigars with Toffee Apple Foam and Burnt Orange immediately makes room via the emergency dessert tank. The stuffed cigars are filled with a pureed apple so foamy I can’t tell where the whipped cream ends and the apple begins. It’s soo appley (I have a particular love for apple desserts) and the entire time that I am eating it, I’m looking for the apple pieces which I don’t find of course as it’s been made into a foam.
We roll out of there, on this cold Wintry night happy and stuffed full and warmed up. And I didn’t even need a Vote for Pedro cocktail to help me!
So tell me Dear Reader, what’s your favourite taste? Sweet? Salty? Sour? Hot & Spicy or a combination of these? And why?
NQN and Mr NQN dined as guests of Emmilou Lounge and Tapas Bar.
Emmilou Lounge and Tapas Bar
413 Bourke Street, Surry Hills NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 9360 6991
Opening hours: Fridays and Saturdays Lunch from 12pm, Monday – Saturday 5pm to 1am
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42 Comments | Add your own
I’ve always wanted to try tapas. They look so cute!
I have a definate sweet tooth. I love sweet honey with my lamb, apple with pork, and apricot with chicken. Of course I love spices also, not too much chilli, though. My fav spices are Cumin and Cloves. The smells of them always make my mouthwater.
I also don’t mind crispy fresh herby flavours, mint is a particular favourite, and also basil. I am slowly educating my palate into more balanced foods.
WOW those stuffed cigars look amazing- a wonderful way to end the meal I’m sure.
I just went there too! haha some tasty flavours in that place; the chorizo is awesome – not exactly the cheapest place to eat though that’s for sure. Vote for Pedro was nice too; Irish coffee with that grand marnier kick – looking good!
The stuffed baby squid looks delicious! And oh, I love the sound of the dessert. I am a huge fan of apple desserts too!! Sometimes the combination of the sweet and salty can be amazing, but sometimes it can be a bit confusing. Depends, I guess!
I love the presentation. The stuffed cigars sound absolutely fantastic!
This place looks amazing! The food just looks so delicious – I want to go there now! And Chris is very cute
I can’t decide on my favourite taste – I love everything from sickeningly sweet, to intense saltiness!
Amazing food photography as always you’ve excellent photo skills!!
Queso manchego and cherry syrup..that’s my kind of meal
Cheers,
Gera
Nice post NQN – that place looks very cosy. At the moment I can’t get enough of the sweet/salty combination. The other night I experimented with chocolate and cheese and it was good!
Ooh I love tapas style food. The apple foam in the dessert sounds lovely. I like a Chef that has a real presence on the floor of his restaurant, I think it gives it more personality and makes it memorable.
I am definitely a sweet girl, but I have my savoury weak spots also…
I’ve heard about this place so great to get a review. The salmon ceviche looks really yum and Ilove the idea of cheese with a cherry syrup.
With regards to aioli – I thought garlic was one of the main ingredients along with olive oil, so I am curious as to what the difference between an aioli and a garlic aioli would be?
Hi Lorraine… Your website is my new morning obsession! I love reading it while I down my morning coffee. Your restaurant reviews are so entertaining and the cooking bits are inspiring (I’m a total kitchen hack).
I’m so pleased you reviewed Emmilou – I’ve love it not only for the yummy food and cool vibe, but also because they stock my fav. champagne (Ruinart).
Looking forward to tomorrow’s post!
Sarah x
Ooh it looks like you definitely sampled a good selection of the menu! I’m so glad that I’m booked in to enjoy some tasty tapas tomorrow night, so I don’t feel too jealous reading this post
I guess I’m more of a hot & spicy lover, even though it can makes my nose run unglamourously! I find the sweet/savoury combo interesting but not always totally enjoyable. I remember when I worked at Maccas, sometimes people would order a sundae and fries, and dip their salty fries in the sweet sundae.
looks great. nice interesting dishes and cute presentation. and that dessert – wow.
tapas….oh my, my favorite way to eat.
The white anchovie pickle caught my eye.
I’m drooling.
The desserts here look yum. I got won over by the cream! This place looks so homely and cosy. You lucky girl!
Great photos!
They look like great art on a plate( really great art!)
I cant wait to try your spanish food and tapas.
What a warm, inviting restaurant! And the dishes are presented so elegantly! In general, I have a real sweet tooth, but occassionally I’ll lean toward a sweet and salty combination (like salted caramel, or chocolate covered pretzels…yum!).
I have dined at this restaurant and the food is amazing.. I dont think the photography does the food justice! and the owner is HOT!
That Cauliflower beignet with mushroom foam looks really gooood! Actually, everything looks so freaking delicious!
My one pet peeve is sweet main dishes…if I want sweet I’ll have a dessert not a main…I just don’t feel as satisfied or full with a meal if it’s too sweet…
Great review, the food looks delectable!
Oh I love tapas!!! That salmon ceviche looks appetising (although I am not a big fan of uncooked stuff)… but I agree, the stuffed baby squid looks really gorgeous and tasty!
Ooh! The dishes look tasty and pretty innovative. But you had me at wild boar. Yum.
I love sweet and savoury together as well – especially when it comes to meats *yum*. It’s open on Mondays *yay*, will have to tell Dave.
Lucky you found room for dessert! That apple foam sounds incredible.
What a coincidence – my friends and I are in the process of organising a hen’s night at Emmilou! They do cocktail-making classes, and then we’ll have tapas dinner there afterwards.
If I had to choose, I guess I’d say sweet. But it really depends on the day – sometimes I want salty, sometimes hot and spicy.
The salmon ceviche and the braised beef with chestnuts look so tempting. The apple canutillos ~ oh, dear! I doubt if I’ll be able to get those out of my head! Like you, I’m a sucker for apple desserts!
yum, I really must try tapas soon!
PS. I’ve nominated you for an award, check my blog =)
x
Oooh the food here looks very interesting! I want to try
esp the sardines, ceviche and the cigars hee hee oh and the sweetbreads!
Astonishing and innovative food flavour combinations – will have to go on my list of “must try” places. Sweet, sour, salty, bitter – love ‘em all!
you know what? i think after a cauliflower beignet, i would’ve said “gimme more of these and skip the rest!” but that would’ve been a mistake–i would’ve missed out on a lot of other good stuff.
Love the look of that salmon ceviche and those apple cigars look really interesting! I’m getting hungry!
OH wow that’s what I call sexy pictures. When I take food pictures, I try to make food alive, yours are out of this world.
NotQuiteNigella you’ve done it again. So stylish, so sophistocated, amazing photos of fancy food! The Squid, the salmon, the braised beef are beautiful. I can’t believe the variety in one sitting. That must be something to coordinate the photography. You are so HOT!!!! Love,
Marilyn (inspired)
Hmm hmm! Looks so slick!! Not too far from my work either! I’m definitely going to visit!
Megan – aioli is garlic mayonnaise. I am guessing some people get confused between mayo and aioli, hence the tautology.
I love my sweet flavours, but a sweet/sour combination usually satisfies me too! I’m not a huge fan of salty foods, as I get really bad headaches from salt. In moderation, yes…a little goes a long way for me
That “Pimiento y Queso de Cabra” looks nice…and the “Carne Coccido con Castanas” sounds nice (although, I’m not a fan of brussel sprouts – but I’d be willing to give this a go! LOL)
And, of course, the “Canutillos Rellenos” looks (and sound) delish!!
If I had the money I’d be heading to Emmilou (I just lost my job, so no going out for meals for a while!)…thanks for the recommendation, Lorraine!
Hi Blond Duck -Oh you should if you get the chance!
Hi Tara -Mmm those spices aare so lovely and aromatic! That’s great that you’re making a concerted effort
Hi sandra -They were fantastic! I was so impressed by the magical missing apple
Hi Lex-hehe what a conicidnece! It’s a great place for Winter too as it’s nice and warm and so is the food. Ahh good to know! If only I had enough room
Hi Betty-That was amazing, definitely my favourite of the night. I can taste it now! Yes I think you’re right!
Hi Anita-It was very nice indeed and yes those cigars with that strong apple flavour were divine!
Hi Zam-Haha that’s a good reason to visit no?
I know, I think mine changes! 
Hi Gera-Thanks so much! That was hubby that night
Hi Sue -Thankyou!
It was ncie and cosy and just what we needed! Ooh that sounds like an interesting experiment! :O
Hi Steph-Yes it’s so unusual to have one on the floor most of the time!
Oh yes apple foam, something that I would like to experience again! 
Hi Megan-Ahh yes I know what you mean! I think aioli has garlic in it although from what I’ve read Spanish Alioli sometimes doesn’t have eggs in it whereas other aioli has eggs and is more like a mayonnaise
Hi Sarah -Oh that’s fabulous! So glad to hear that
Ahhh yes they really do take their cocktails and champagne seriously don’t they! That’s great 
x
Hi Conor -it was a great selection of food
Oh how did you find it? I admit I love hot and spicy too! But hmm I’ve never had fries in a sundae before!
Hi lindsey clare -It was a great night indeed
Hi Julianna-Oh yes hubby loved that one! Hehe I don’t blame you, the food there is great
Hi clekitty-Oh yes that apple foam cream-yum! Thanks!
Hi Jordan-hehe it was very artistically presented
Hi Faith -Yes I was very impressed by the presentation too
Oh yes salted caramel is a fantastic combo! 
Hi Lauren-Well I think my husband did a great job with the photography actually!
Hi Sophia-it was all really good
Hi Alexandra-One of my friends is like that too! I don’t mind it but not all the time
Hi Meg-Thankyou, it was!
Hi Trisha-Oh what I’d give for some more of that stuffed squid!
Hi Forager -Hehe I really perked up when I heard that too!
Hi Belinda-Yes so many places aren’t open on Mondays! It’s great to know a good place to go to on a Monday
Hi Arwen-I know! I always make room for apple desserts
Hi KT -Oh how very cool! I can imagine how much fun you’ll have!
Yes I know exactly what you mean 
Hi Midge-Yes funny thing is thatI don’t like uncooked apple but cooked apple is so delicious!
Hi Iron Chef Shellie -Yes you must!
Thankyou so much 
Hi FFichiban-Oh you should! You should!
Hi Moya-They certainly were
Hehe very cool!
Hi grace-Haha I was tempted but knew that there were much more goodies to come
Hi Jacq -hehe yes me too looking at the pics again!
Hi Jackie-Awww that’s such a nice thing to say!
Hi Marilyn-Thankyou so much Marilyn! You are too kind
Love, Lorraine xxx
Hi Yas-Hehe cool! Yes and they’re open until 1am!
Hi gobsmack’d-Yes I love the stuff!
Hi Liv-Ahh interesting about getting headaches from salt! Yes I’m not a great brussel sprouts eater too although these were much nicer that what I’ve had
Oh what a shame about your job! But perhaps once things get back on track 
You’re welcome!
I LOVE the squid here – amazing. Unfortunately when I went here the service was terrible, a sentiment that was echoed by many reviewers on Eatability (I was hoping to go to be proved wrong). However it was only a specific waiter, so maybe I will have to overcome the feeling of being treated so rudely just to try the wonderful squid dish.
Hi Nat-Me too! Sadly it is no longer on the menu as they’ve changed the menu over for the new season. What a shame as the squid was what dreams were made of. Oh dear, that is no good and just the one waiter is such a pity. Sorry to hear that!
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