The Magical Austrian Christmas Markets!

salzburg christmas markets ornament

Salzburg Christmas Markets

There are times when food blogging is quite the most fun thing on earth to do. It makes up for the times writing at all hours and never having a day off. One of these times was when I was invited to a media famil trip by the Austrian National Tourist Office  which was sponsored by Emirates Airlines. When I was first asked if I’d be interested in coming along to see the Austrian Christmas Markets in Salzburg and Vienna along with partaking of some gourmet goodies, I must have looked rather comically disbelieving. I may have even stammered in disbelief and after recovering briefly, I started packing my bag mentally in preparation. And a few weeks later when I saw the itinerary I was even more delighted. I may have squealed. And settle in for this story as it’s a long story (but I promise a goodie!).

vienna christmas markets decorations

Decorations at Vienna Christmas Markets

This was my first time to Austria. Of course I have my friend M who is Austrian who has made me all manner of Austrian food from Pancake Soup to Malakoff Torte but to actually visit Austria was a thrill and not only was I going to participate in Austria’s culinary and shopping tour, I was also going by Emirates Business Class and trying out the A380! My fellow travellers are Alison formerly of Vogue who now writes freelance for Get Up And Go magazine among others, Mike from the Daily Telegraph and Gerard from the Sydney Morning Herald along with Astrid from the Austrian National Tourism Office.

After a quick unpacking and refreshing, we all set off to check out the Christmas markets. Advent or the Pre Christmas season is very important to Austrians and starts four weeks before Christmas. There is a candle holder wreath with 4 candles inside and on each Sunday one candle is lit until 4 weeks later and all 4 candles are lit. There are many Christmas markets throughout Austria with a general rule that only good quality hand made items can be sold. Each market has its own personality and they each have special items that you don’t see at other markets. The Christmas Markets also serve as a gathering place for locals where they can shop for Christmas presents and ornaments and also rather importantly, drink cups of hot Glühwein and Punsch to help ward off the chills and eat Christmas Cookies. During our visit it’s unseasonably warm (which I’m rather happy about but we were all hoping for snow for some true winter photos) but the effect of the Glühwein and Punsch isn’t lost on us. It’s fabulously warming and even after we’ve left Austria I still have a hankering for a cup of Punsch at around 5pm (when we typically had it). So without further ado, here is your guide to some of the amazing Christmas Markets that we visited during our time in Salzburg and Vienna!

You can also skip through to the Christmas Market that takes your fancy from the list below.

Christmas Market at Salzburg Cathedral Square

salzburg christmas markets

salzburg christmas markets scented bunches

Our first Christmas Market and a truly lovely one at that. These markets are housed at Cathedral Square in the centre of Salzburg. They’re very large with stalls selling all manner of items from beautiful glass ornaments, gorgeous wooden Christmas decorations as well as wooden children’s toys (there was even talk of banning plastic items here). The prices are reasonable but depend on the stalls. Buying from the stalls here will inevitably save you about 20%-50% from buying from a regular store, particularly if it’s a touristy store.

girls wings

The Christkind

Whilst wandering around Salzburg we spotted these girls. They are the Christkind who are the child like bearers of gifts as opposed to Santa which is more an American or British tradition (and there is some opposition with Austrian traditionalists who don’t want Santa to intrude or overtake on their Christkind). Every year the Christkind is chosen in a competition and they dress up in gorgeous outfits and parade around the city centre wishing everyone a Merry Christmas. One is the Christkind (in the gold dress) while the others are angelic types that surround her. The Chriskind usually has blonde hair and wears angel wings.

salzburg christmas markets marroni stall

The Hot Chestnut Stall

salzburg christmas markets morefruit krampus

Can you see the Krampus demons on the left made out of dried fruit?

salzburg christmas markets array fruit

Fresh fruit display

salzburg christmas markets wooden toys

Adorable wooden toys

We’re given an adorable walking wooden toy with our name on it as a gift from Gunda at Salzburg Tourism, the stallholder also stocks other great kid’s toys all in wood. He will personalise them all at no extra cost which is a nice touch. There are amazing fruit and vegetables including fat white asparagus, berries and Krampus (the Christmas devil) made in dried fruit. Chestnuts, gingerbread, stuffed roast potatoes are also sold to help ward off the cold as well as Glühwein which is served in ceramic cups (no plastic here!). You simply return the cup when you’re finished to get your deposit back.

salzburg cathedral fat asparagus

Fat white asparagus spears

salzburg christmas markets pretzel chocs

Chocolates, chocolates and more chocolates!

salzburg christmas markets toys

Reindeer ornaments

We have our first Glühwein and Punsch. There are a few varieties to choose from as well as a non alcoholic version. I choose the non alcoholic version (Kinder Punsch aka Child’s Punsch). By all reports the Glühwein packed a punch with many of our grouop reeling and feeling like we’ve just had a hot toddy and wanting to curl up in bed. The Kinderpunsch is delicious and we sip from the cups warming ourselves up. It’s a lovely introduction to our first night in Austria.

salzburg cathedral gluwein

Hellbrunn Palace Christmas Markets

leopold castle

Leopold’s Castle, Salzburg

hellbrun christmas markets markets

Hellbrunn Palace Christmas Markets

hellbrun christmas markets stall5

Our trip to Hellbrunn Palace was during a day in which I knew we had a lot on. We were visiting Hellbrunn Palace for their Christmas Market and to see the famous pavillion from The Sound of Music. Originally the pavillion sat at Leopold’s Castle but avid The Sound Of Music lovers were so eager to see the pavillion that they used to jump the fence. The security risk required it to be moved to another location and it was then donated to the city of Salzburg by three Harvard Alumni on behalf of the Salzburg Global Seminar who purchased Leopold’s Palace and now use it as a seminar and conference centre.

hellbrun christmas markets stall6

The pavillion is the one where Liesl sang Sixteen Going on Seventeen and also features a scene between Maria and Captain Von Trapp. One used to be able to go into the glass walled pavillion until an 82 year old woman who was pretending to be 16 going on 17 lost her footing and crashed into the glass! The Sound of Music children are still great friends and Nicholas Hammond who played the eldest boy lives in Australia. Astrid tells us of how he talks about the still enduring bond between all of the children and in a crisis his fellow cast mates are the first people that he turns to.

hellbrun christmas markets stall2

hellbrun christmas markets stall 3

hellbrun christmas markets stall

We’re given some time to wander through the markets and I marvel at the beautiful decorations and buy a few for myself and for gifts. Prices are amazingly good and I purchase two large wooden soldiers for €5 and €6 each and little wooden Christmas tree decorations for €1.50 and a set of 6 angels for €2.50. There are pine cone animals, knitted clothes, wooden birds, suspended Christmas decorations that jiggle up and down and red porcelain bells. One can even buy antlers! And what do you use an antler for? As a coat rack of course!

hellbrun christmas markets antlers

Antler anyone?

hellbrun christmas markets antler hook

hellbrun christmas markets stall4

hellbrun christmas markets sausages

Cured sausages

hellbrun christmas markets smoked

Cured fish

There’s all sorts of food from the omnipresent roasted chestnuts, marzipan shaped like potatoes, smoked sausages and some absolutely divine smoked fish. A man with a huge sword lures me over with some smoked tuna which is lovely. He then slices off some smoked salmon which is incredible and then lastly some smoked South African butter mackerel which tops them all. Soft and with the consistency of butter it is hard to describe and unlike any other smoked fish I’ve tried. These were my favourite markets of all with the beautiful setting, beautiful range of unique handicrafts and fabulously low prices.

hellbrun christmas markets fish

Smoked fish

hellbrun christmas markets marzipan potato

Marzipan potatoes

hellbrun christmas markets hearts

Gingerbread hearts

St Gilgen and St Wolfgang (the Lakes District) Christmas Markets

st gilgen

A view just before we reach St Gilgen

We’re venturing out to the Lakes District today, a picturesque area about 30 minutes outside of Salzburg city and one where many Austrians holiday during Summer. Many years ago the Lakes District was made all the more popular as the Emperor Franz Joseph declared it his holiday place and wherever the emperor went, people followed. In the past few years they’ve started holding Christmas Markets in 3 of the areas, St Gilgen, St Wolfgang and Strobl and these attract masses of visitors from Austria and nearby countries with about 300,000 visiting during the pre Christmas advent season. There are 57 lakes in total in the Lakes District although some of the lakes are closer in size to a swimming pool.

st gilgen post office

Former Post Office where horses used to rest

st gilgen dallmann molds

Inside Dallman’s-with vintage baking molds on the walls

st gilgen dallman chocs

The Mozartkugeln being made

After a short drive we arrive at St Gilgen which is one of the first areas in the lakes district to hold a Christmas Market. We walk past a huge building which used to be a Post Station and used to be the place where they changed horses but it’s now a hotel. We go straight to Dallman which is a coffee and cake shop open since 1954 where Franz Mayrhofer shows us his handmade Mozartkugeln which are the special chocolates that are available all throughout Austria. He tells us of the history of the Mozartkugeln which started when Fürst the chocolatier first invented the sweet in 1890. In 1904 he went to the world exhibition in Paris where he won the Gold Medal but in his excitement he forgot to register it and now everyone can make them.

st gilgen dallmann mozartkuglen

Mozartkugeln

At the turn of the century an item such as pistachio was exotic, today they mix 10% pistachio paste with marzipan. They then enrobe it with hazelnut nougat and then coat it with 56% cocoa dark chocolate by spearing it on a skewer so that it becomes perfectly round. They’ve been making them here since 1991 when Franz took over the tourism for this area and he brought in tours of Japanese who were eager to learn how to make these delicious little balls from scratch. For €28 they would get a lesson, hat, apron and a box of Mozart’s travel cake as well as a diploma that certifies them to make Mozartkugeln, even 3 star Michelin chefs have signed up for this experience.

st gilgen travel cake

Mozart’s Travelling Cake

And what is Mozart’s travel cake? It is a cake rich in nuts, orange flavour, coated in marzipan and chocolate. It comes in a wooden box which was used to help transport the cake while Mozart and his sister were travelling through Europe. The cake was one that would last and the box would aid in that endeavour.

st gilgen rocking horse

Cinnamon quill porcelain rocking horses

st gilgen cinnamon curls

Cinnamon curl bells

We then stroll through the markets which are open on Thursdays to Sundays and see the various items on offer. There are soaps made from sheep’s milk, a salt stand with cooking and therapeutic salts, a grilled open cheese stand with what looks like raclette. Alison and I look around and smell the strong scent of cinnamon and lo and behold there are cinnamon Christmas ornaments. There are rocking horses with cinnamon quills and gold bells decorated with cinnamon curls.

st gilgen cribs

There is also an exhibition of cribs and nativity scenes and all are available for purchase.

st gilgen dog

Getting attention – you’re doing it right

We end off St Gilgen with a visit to the Mozart Museum which is interesting because of its focus on Maria Anna (or Nannerl as was her nickname) Mozart. She was his older sister and also a gifted pianist but her talent was put in the background when compared to Wolfgang’s. The building was built by Mozart’s grandfather and Nannerl lived there for 12-13 years. Sadly there were no notes kept of hers as they suppose that they were all thrown away as women’s work was not valued at that time although there is plenty of correspondence from Wolfgang complimenting her on her musical compositions.

st gilgen sausage sunday

Sausages, bratwurst and pretzels for “Bratwurst Sunday”

Luckily we’re here on the first day of advent which is called “Bratwurst Sonntag” or Bratwurst Sunday where people eat Bratwurst and sauerkraut to celebrate the beginning of advent. The sausages and bratwurst are filling and the pretzel is fresh. I particularly love the speck dotted sauerkraut which we eat standing up at a table.

We then board a boat for a scenic ride across to St Wolfgang, riding on the top level would be a great idea if the wind weren’t arctic and beating furiously. After a quick photo I go downstairs and wait in the warmth of the below cabin. It’s packed and Eva explains that sometimes you cannot even move on the boat. She points out the deepest part of the lake where the Red Bull cliff diving takes place (Red Bull was invented by Austrian billionaire Dietrich Mateschitz).

st wolfgang statues

Eva shows us these statues which a local artist produces every year. The town of St Wolfgang buy these statues from him and exhibit them at events like these.

st wolfgang soups

Suppenkaspar stall

st wolfgang strudel

Dumpling and suppenstrudel stand

We arrive at St Wolfgang where the markets are huge with a massive variety of food. There’s Suppenstrudel which is a strudel that you slice up and place in a bowl of soup, leberknodel and kaspress knodel (dumplings), a stand entirely devoted to venison and venison products. Also there’s a suppenkaspar stall which sells soup in hollowed out bread rolls. The name Suppenkaspar is a joke as it is a story about a child that didn’t like soup so he starved to death. They have three flavours: garlic, pea and sausage and potato. All are rich, hearty soups.

st wolfgang horseshoe

Horseshoe maker

We pass a horseshoe maker who stops and poses for photos. It turns out he has lived in Australia and when we ask him where he replies “Albury Wodonga” in a perfect Australian accent. There’s an automated dumpling and sauerkraut stall which has everyone transfixed. You put in the coins and a couple of minutes later a bell rings and a drawer pushes out and your dumplings are ready! We walk past the oldest gingerbread maker in Austria that has been making gingerbread since 1429. The drawings on the outside of the building are Bavarian in style because the owner married a Bavarian woman.

st wolfgang gingerbread

The oldest Gingerbread maker

st wolfgang venison

Venison stall

st wolfgang kids stand

Children’s stall

There is a cute stall staffed by children itself a smaller version of the adult’s stalls where they sell the Kinder Punsch and Glühwein for kids as well as icing sugar dusted donuts. We stop off at St Wolfganger Lebkuchen which is a gingerbread store where we get the chance to decorate our own cookies and buy some goodies. We stop at the Kasspatzel stand and Astrid buys some kasspatzel for us to try. It is similar to a macaroni cheese with fried onions on top, spatzel being a pasta gnocchi type of noodle. We leave during the beautiful “Blue Hour” (when everything looks blue) exhausted with lots of goodies.

st wolfgang kass spatzel

Kassspatzel

st wolfgang blue hour

The divine Blue Hour

Vienna Christmas Markets – the largest in Austria

vienna christmas markets front

vienna christmas markets balls

vienna christmas markets tissues

Tissue box decorating

With over 140 stalls, this is the largest Christmas Market in Austria. After arriving in Vienna from Salzburg we take a scenic walk around the city. It’s quite different from the chocolate box beauty of Salzburg but still not without its charm. We reach the Vienna Christmas Markets which is situated in front of the Vienna Town Hall. Our guide Linda shows us one of the unique features of this market: the Christmas workshops. Children in Austria are encouraged to make gifts for Christmas but parents nowadays don’t have time to make these with them so they can take them here to make items. For €3 they can buy a voucher and the child can choose which item they want to make: candle decorating, necklace making, tissue box decorating, vase making, picture frames or my favourite the cookie decorating.

vienna christmas markets waffles

Waffle stand

vienna christmas markets punsch

The famous Punsch stall

Everyone’s favourite part of the Christmas markets is the Punsch or Glühwein and the stall here is said to have invented Glühwein and every year makes a different flavour. This year’s is Chocolate, rum and coconut which I try and it’s absolutely delicious. I don’t even feel the headache and cheek flushing that I normally do when drinking alcohol.

vienna christmas markets gingerbread

Gingerbread

vienna christmas markets donuts

Donuts

As this is the largest Christmas Markets in Austria it is inevitably more commercial but it also means that the range is larger including a lot of food. Despite the fact that we have a dinner to go out to soon, some of us wistfully look at the food available and easily imagine going here to meet with friends, shop and eat. That’s when the secondary stomach would come in handy of course. The range of filled donuts is larger and I spy this rather interesting looking concotion – 6 donuts on a large stick with pieces of apple in between and dusted with icing sugar. And you better believe that I bought it and yes it’s so very, very good despite being a day’s worth of calories on a stick.

vienna christmas markets donuts 6

Donuts on a stick 2.80

vienna christmas markets pastries

I longingly look past the pastries, cakes and gingerbread and immediately know what I’ll wish for this Christmas.

A second stomach.

vienna christmas markets pastries

Pastries Galore!

Schoenbrunn Palace Christmas Markets

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets markets

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets cinnamon

Last but not least is the Schoenbrunn Christmas Markets which is only a few stops away from the city centre by metro. Schoenbrunn which means “Beautiful well” is one of the most picturesque markets due to the setting right in front of the Palace. With breathtaking manicured gardens we take a stroll through the Palace and visit the Imperial Apartments. Photography isn’t allowed but you can see some photos on Schoennbrunn Palace’s website which show the lavishness of the apartments (although seeing them up close is much more wowing). In the gardens, our guide Alexa tells us that in March to October there are train rides that go through the grounds, she also points out the area in which they give Apple Strudel baking classes. During the Spring and summer months there is a maze for you to get lost in.

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets baubles

Christmas baubles

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets wooden

Wooden angels and nativity figures

It’s night-time (which falls at about 4pm during Winter) by the time we head outside. The lights are on and they look spectacular, particularly with the palace in the background. I buy some adorable gingerbreads. There are also blue and white porcelain decorations as well as cinnamon curl decorated bells, hand painted baubles and interesting spiky glass ornaments.

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets glass baubles

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets blue porcelain

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets donuts

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets cones

Food wise there are custom filled donuts with a choice of filling such as chocolate, vanilla and apricot. There is freshly made crepes stall and a stall which is flooded with customers and 4 people deep. I manage to squeeze my way through the crowd as I am curious to see what is so popular and see that they sell ice cream cones topped with marshmallow and chocolate (Schaumbecher). The chocolate marshmallows are wonderful here and very freshly whipped and unlike the ones that sit on a supermarket shelf. I buy a Punschkrapfen which I adore as they’re icing coated sponge cakes with a rum soaked layer in the centre. There are huge pretzels in a variety of flavours and roasted chestnuts.

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets punschkrapfen

Punschkrapfen

Despite seeing so many Christmas Markets, I still got a thrill when we visited a new one as I knew the shopping would be different, the food would be different and of course there was the insatiable urge come nightfall and below 10°C weather to get a mug of Gluhwein or Punsch.

schoenbrunn palace christmas markets pretzels

The Christmas Markets are held throughout Austria in the 4 weeks prior to Christmas Eve.

schoenbrunn gingerbread

NQN was a guest of the Austrian National Tourist Office and Emirates Airlines

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87 Comments | Add your own

  • 1. Faith | December 10th, 2009 at 6:28 am | #

    What a lovely post, Lorraine! Those Christmas markets, the views, the food…it’s all stunning…I want to go! :) I enjoyed reading about the Christkind since I’ve never heard of that before…I love learning different traditions!

  • 2. joey@FoodiePop | December 10th, 2009 at 7:59 am | #

    Wunderbar! So Christmasey as you’d expect in a place like Austria. Amazing decorations too! Love those cute owls! Thanks for the fab post!

  • 3. Julia @ Mélanger | December 10th, 2009 at 8:04 am | #

    Lorraine, what a fabulous experience. It truly is a different world at Christmas time in Europe, isn’t it? All the gorgeous little bits and pieces that you can come across at these markets – which would be a very rare find indeed here in Australia. I regularly follow market stories from some of my favourite bloggers in Europe (have you read mykugelhopf.ch at all?) for a dose of market cheer. Sometimes (well, maybe more than sometimes) I get very tempting to move overseas, yet again! :)

  • 4. Lisa | December 10th, 2009 at 8:04 am | #

    oh my I am lost for words! Everything looks so amazing :) What a beautiful experience for you – and one I am sure you will never forget :)

  • 5. Gera @ SweetsFoods | December 10th, 2009 at 8:10 am | #

    This is a magical post!
    So wonderful pics! You know that the chocolate and more chocolate is my slogan well donuts, marzipan also and and….drooling :)

    Cheers!

    Gera

  • 6. romaverona | December 10th, 2009 at 8:19 am | #

    Lorraine – what beautiful photos. Thanks for sharing your holiday. I feel so Christmasy!!

  • 7. sandra | December 10th, 2009 at 8:29 am | #

    OH MY GOODNESS!!! What a wonderful experience. It looks like such a magical place to visit especially in the lead up to Christmas. Thankyou for sharing- it is definitely on my bucket list.

  • 8. Amy@takentopieces | December 10th, 2009 at 8:33 am | #

    Flying off to Austria for Christmas markets, as you do! I almost feel like I’ve had a little trip too, thanks Lorraine.

  • 9. Steph | December 10th, 2009 at 8:38 am | #

    Wow what an epic post! Austria looks so beautiful, I’ve always wanted to visit. It was great reading about all the Sound of Music stories, especially the poor woman who was pretending to be 16 going on 17! I watched that movie over and over so much as a child my parents were so sick of it!

  • 10. Sarah M | December 10th, 2009 at 8:57 am | #

    wowww – I am so jealous right now! The markets look gorgeous and certainly put you in the christmas spirit!

  • 11. Betty @ The Hungry Girl | December 10th, 2009 at 8:58 am | #

    WOW!! I don’t even know where to start. They all look amazing, love the pic of the blue hour – so beautiful! And donut & apple on a stick – so genius! Now I want to go to Austria! lol.

  • 12. Katherine | December 10th, 2009 at 9:01 am | #

    Waffle Stands, Hot Chestnuts and Donuts on Sticks. This is why I love travelling. What an amazing experience for you Lorraine. Such a great post, it was like you were my personal tour guide.

  • 13. snooky doodle | December 10th, 2009 at 9:09 am | #

    wow what a nice place to visit. Wish to spend Christmas there :)

  • 14. Cakelaw | December 10th, 2009 at 9:09 am | #

    I was in Salzburg in early December about 7 years ago, and found it the most magical place I have ever been. I absolutely adore it, and feel that if life was a fairytale, I would live in Salzburg. These photos are wonderful and take me back – wish I was there now! Christmas in Europe is is different to Christmas here – it’s magic.

  • 15. Vita | December 10th, 2009 at 9:20 am | #

    FANTASTIC! You are a lucky girl. Thanks for sharing. Even though I was just in Europe I would love to go back for Christmas one year!

  • 16. Kim | December 10th, 2009 at 9:20 am | #

    thank you for sharing this! it is beautiful

  • 17. Iron Chef Shellie | December 10th, 2009 at 9:23 am | #

    I think I gained 10kg looking at all those food pictures :P

    Oh how I love a good European market!
    x

  • 18. tuulia | December 10th, 2009 at 9:30 am | #

    Welcome back home Lorraine after your amazing adventures! Your pictures are lovely and it is almost as being there with you. Thank you for insight into Austrian wondrous Christmas!

  • 19. Norman | December 10th, 2009 at 9:31 am | #

    A splendid post. Did you take photos of the meals on board Emirates A380 Business Class? I am not sure how aircraft food fits into food blogging but I would be interested to hear your reflections.

  • 20. Rose | December 10th, 2009 at 9:39 am | #

    Oh my gosh, this is amazing. I’ve always been a bit bah humbug about Christmas but damn if this doesn’t make me feel slightly jolly!

  • 21. Sian | December 10th, 2009 at 9:42 am | #

    I love Christmas markets – they appeal to my fabulous sense of Christmas kitchness!! Have sent your post to the husband demanding to be taken one year. But given he hates the cold I think I might just have to turn down the air con at home, bake my own gingerbread and dream about them!

  • 22. lisaiscooking | December 10th, 2009 at 9:46 am | #

    I wasn’t familiar with the Christkind tradition. So interesting! The markets look amazing. You must have had a fantastic time!

  • 23. Mike | December 10th, 2009 at 9:52 am | #

    Incredible post NQN. Wife and I are getting 99% close to booking a stop in Austria now on our upcoming European Christmas trip. Had little idea that all of this went on so thank you.

  • 24. Angela | December 10th, 2009 at 10:06 am | #

    This trip is like a fairytale come true! This surely must be the most magical time of year to visit – and what a way to go!

  • 25. Belle@OohLook | December 10th, 2009 at 10:25 am | #

    Ooh, I would have squealed for DAYS if given such an opportunity! And just how many photos did you take, they all look fantastic!
    It’s a dream of mine to visit the Christmas markets in Europe, so thanks for doing it for us this year.

  • 26. Esz | December 10th, 2009 at 10:29 am | #

    Holy crap thats so amazing!! WOW. I would LOVE to go to Austria again. Really really loved that place. Yum at all that food!!!

  • 27. Su-Lin | December 10th, 2009 at 10:33 am | #

    Oh, what a brilliant trip! I’ve been meaning to finally visit Vienna these past few years but never got round to it. When we did visit Salzburg though, we made it a point to buy Mozartkugeln from each of the makers…to try them all! Thanks for the information on the Mozartkugeln course too – I’d love to take that!

  • 28. Bev Malzard | December 10th, 2009 at 10:38 am | #

    Ahh, Lorraine, I’m very envious and sorry that I couldn’t make it. But so happy that you loved it – how could you not love Austria, the romance, the lights, the CAKE! Nice story too.
    Cheers
    Bev

  • 29. Amanda N | December 10th, 2009 at 10:49 am | #

    Wonderful post, beautiful photos (as usual!). It really does look like fairy land! It would be lovely to experience the Christmas of the colder climates and all the differences that would mean from the heat of an Aussie christmas!

  • 30. Kirsty | December 10th, 2009 at 11:35 am | #

    Oh, how magical! And all the shopping would have been fantastic. Did you come home with heaps of new Christmas decorations? In which case, shall we be looking for a picture of your decorated tree soon?

    I like Norman’s idea of a food review on the A380. Any chance of that happening?

  • 31. Lilia | December 10th, 2009 at 11:38 am | #

    Sound so goooood. What a once in a lifetime travel it must be!
    Hope they do offer a giveaway for your readers.
    My mom is a fan of Sound of Music, even she doesn’t speak English, she adores the movie since its released date. She must have seen the movie, video and DVD thousand times and dreaming on Austria if she read your blog.
    The markets are really sound so good. I feel like one day I’ll come there and visiting all markets for 4 weeks (if I could).
    How was the people in there? Are they very kind, happy and smiling all day? From your pictures it seems they are always look bright despite the cold.

  • 32. Theresa | December 10th, 2009 at 11:45 am | #

    Beautiful post.

  • 33. Big M | December 10th, 2009 at 11:48 am | #

    Dearest NQN – welcome back! You’ve made me homesick :-)
    Maybe after all this you see me in a different light. Now you know why I don’t like sauce on my Schnitzel… xoxoxox M

  • 34. mlle délicieuse | December 10th, 2009 at 12:01 pm | #

    A string of sugar-dusted donuts? Oh, yes please! Looks like you had a wonderful, magical time =)

  • 35. Anita | December 10th, 2009 at 12:10 pm | #

    How absolutely awesome! You must have had the most amazing time Lorraine. Everything looks so lovely – I was quite interested in hearing about the Christkind tradition of theirs.

  • 36. MIKE SMITH | December 10th, 2009 at 12:15 pm | #

    Lorraine, Loved your mix of photographs from our recent trip to Austria. If only it snowed – it would have capped off a great foodies journey through Salzburg and Vienna. Tune into radio station 2UE (Sydney) on Sunday around 1.15pm for a review from yours truly.
    Mike Smith

  • 37. spice and more | December 10th, 2009 at 12:23 pm | #

    Lucky Lorraine! Sounds like a fab experience. Certainly different from the sweltering hot days back home here…

  • 38. Lisa Smith | December 10th, 2009 at 12:29 pm | #

    Thanks for the armchair trip and virtual feast, Lorraine! I think we readers should organise a trip there for Christmas 2010! I’m a Virgo, so put me on the planning committee;) Gorgeous photos and text as always. Now off to find my gingerbread recipe!

  • 39. shaz | December 10th, 2009 at 12:41 pm | #

    Beautiful post Lorraine! Such breathtaking photos, could almost feel the cold (don’t care how warm you say it was, it looks cold!). The fruit “demons” are too cute. Well done, glad you had such an awesome trip.

  • 40. Beau | December 10th, 2009 at 12:44 pm | #

    Wauwww,,,,soooooooooooooooooo nice and pretty and everything,,totaly love this psot,,gives such a christmas feeling. I immediately believe that you must have had a blast!

  • 41. Trisha | December 10th, 2009 at 12:46 pm | #

    Oooohh Lorraine, every bit of this post tugs my heartstrings! Its just giving me this warm cozy feeling of Christmas!!! The photos look AMAZING, the food and places are beautiful and I’m sure you’ve had a fantastic time in Austria, Dubai and everywhere else you’ve been during this trip!

  • 42. kathy s | December 10th, 2009 at 1:13 pm | #

    Lucky you – those stalls look fantastic- maybe we should consider having areas that ban plastic in any form for toys etc- throughout the whole year not just Christmas, and those The Christkind children look divine- hope you enjoy your stay and don’t eat too much of that tempting food- where in Australia would we find such delicate and beautiful work in toys and decorations.

  • 43. Liv | December 10th, 2009 at 2:49 pm | #

    Oh wow…Lorraine, I am insanely jealous of you right now! LOL
    The Christmas markets look amazing, well – Austria as a whole looks amazing!! :)

    Just wondering, do you need an assistant?!? :P Just kidding… looks like you had fun in Austria! (I’m going to look at those photos again…I’m wanting a gingerbread heart or some marzipan now!!! Not fair!!! LOL (Actually, some sauerkraut would be nice! Argh…I’m hungry now! Thanks! LOL)

  • 44. Jacinta | December 10th, 2009 at 2:54 pm | #

    Oh what a fantastic time you must have had. This would bring Christmas mojo back to any jaded grinch.

  • 45. Katie | December 10th, 2009 at 3:02 pm | #

    Wow, I could have spent a LONG time there, looks like you had fun. I liked the ChristKind story – very interesting to see different cultures celebrating Christmas.

  • 46. Kathy | December 10th, 2009 at 3:04 pm | #

    This is Brilliant! YOU are Brilliant! What a fantastic opportunity. And now I feel the urge to spend Christmas in Austria next year… haha

  • 47. Brenda | December 10th, 2009 at 3:42 pm | #

    How lucky are you to be part of this?! Each market is so beautiful and spectacular in it’s own way. Truely a wonderful experience to be part of. Thanks for sharing

  • 48. Chris | December 10th, 2009 at 4:12 pm | #

    How beautiful
    Thank you for reminding me
    Many years ago I attended a formal dinner in the Schoenbrunn
    Palace,with music provided by a string quartet
    Just Magic !!

  • 49. YW | December 10th, 2009 at 4:13 pm | #

    Welcome back! Looks like you had an AWESOME trip!! :)

  • 50. Carolyn Jung | December 10th, 2009 at 4:13 pm | #

    Truly magical! I have always wanted to visit Europe at Christmas time, but have never managed it yet. I have only been there in January. It’s still lovely, as so many of the holiday lights are still up. But I so wish I could see those incredible markets some day.

  • 51. Midge | December 10th, 2009 at 4:15 pm | #

    Oh, how I envy you! I’ve long dreamed of going to Austria for the Holidays, but have never really had the time for it. And you actually saw how Mozartkugeln are made!

  • 52. Barbara | December 10th, 2009 at 4:24 pm | #

    It really does look magical! How wonderful that you got this opportunity! I would have loved every minute of it too!

  • 53. Monica | December 10th, 2009 at 4:45 pm | #

    what a special magical trip you had …… :)

  • 54. Disha | December 10th, 2009 at 4:49 pm | #

    What great pictures Lorraine! Im sure had a great time on ur trip! All the stalls look so fun! :D Lucky you get to be the at Christmas and see all this!

  • 55. Paula | December 10th, 2009 at 5:37 pm | #

    How fabulous! This was a great read and your photos made me want to be there now!
    Tell me, how much did you buy to bring home?

  • 56. Arwen from Hoglet K | December 10th, 2009 at 5:48 pm | #

    Sounds like a fabulous trip! I love all the handmade things, and it’s brilliant that they’ve eliminated plastic cups.

  • 57. Barbara Harris | December 10th, 2009 at 6:09 pm | #

    Wow what a fabulous experience. I have never visited the Austrian Christmas markets but have heard so much about them. I really enjoyed seeing them through your eyes.

  • 58. Ellen | December 10th, 2009 at 6:18 pm | #

    Lucky you! What a wonderful trip. Makes you want to have a white Christmas!

  • 59. Jetlagmama | December 10th, 2009 at 7:53 pm | #

    Oh Lorraine! I have wurst envy and so much more. How beautiful. Imagine the smell of those cinnamon decorations on a real tree. What a delicious trip.

  • 60. buggy | December 10th, 2009 at 8:40 pm | #

    oh this looks so beautiful!
    I was in Germany just before christmas last year and the christmas markets were my absolute favourite part of the holiday!
    this post really makes me want to go back there!

  • 61. \/B | December 10th, 2009 at 9:05 pm | #

    I am SO envious!! Salzburg is one of places we absolutely enjoyed during our trip! Hope you managed to try the Salzburg Bosna, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bosna_%28sausage%29 they are sooooo good. Looking at all the food photos brought back wonderful foodie memories! Sounds like you’re absolutely enjoying the trip.

  • 62. jane doe | December 10th, 2009 at 9:55 pm | #

    Thank you, thank you, thank you for writing this beautiful post. It brought back a lot of fond memories – very wonderful and very evocative.

  • 63. matilda | December 10th, 2009 at 10:15 pm | #

    Well, that is just amazing! I think I want to start my own food blog so I can receive such fantastic trips travelling Business Class ( uhum pardon me for breathing , lol).
    It’s hard for Australians to imagine a Christmas without the heat waves, the beach or spent around a bbq with a very cold beer. This really portrays what the Northern Hemisphere dwellers know as a White Christmas. It looks like one of those old world Christmas cards only with real people. I could blissfully spend days, nay weeks at those market stalls and the chocolate and marzipan factories. Beautiful photos. Did you have to pay excess baggage on your return flight? hehehe

  • 64. Moya | December 10th, 2009 at 10:38 pm | #

    I got so excited when I saw your post thinking it was an Austrian market in Sydney and then on reading found out it was in the real Austria, wow! Thanks for sharing such a fabulous experience.

  • 65. Amy | December 11th, 2009 at 12:01 am | #

    Epic blog entry. Looks amazing! As always, amazing pics!

  • 66. grace | December 11th, 2009 at 12:17 am | #

    gadzooks! boy, some people really know how to celebrate christmas. i, of course, am smitten by the cinnamon horses and bells. what a find!

  • 67. Pam | December 11th, 2009 at 12:17 am | #

    Lorraine, I just LUV traveling through you or could I say with you…so beautiful!

    Thank you!

    Enjoy!

  • 68. BowsNHearts | December 11th, 2009 at 12:20 am | #

    What beautiful items they have for sale at the markets! What a big difference as compared to the markets in Melbourne!

    I have never given much thought to Austria as being a holiday destination but your post certainly changed my mind!

  • 69. Vicky | December 11th, 2009 at 1:34 am | #

    oh wow! How gorgeous does everything look? heh, The angel outfits are pretty cool!

  • 70. MaryPoppinsinHeels | December 11th, 2009 at 1:58 am | #

    Oh, NQN, I thoroughly enjoyed every word and photograph! I feel like I’ve just returned from the perfect Christmas trip!

  • 71. Mardi @eatlivetravelwrite | December 11th, 2009 at 6:39 am | #

    What a wonderful post – almost like being there myself!

  • 72. Heavenly Housewife | December 11th, 2009 at 7:25 am | #

    HOw lovely, I’ve been to vienna but not during christmas time. Seems like I missed out on something really cool.

  • 73. mica | December 11th, 2009 at 1:14 pm | #

    oh my…the hot chestnut stall does look cosy and all geared up to spread the x’mas love by warming up the heart with yummy chestnuts!

    the austrian x’mas market looks so so pretty i wish im there!

  • 74. Alex | December 11th, 2009 at 3:58 pm | #

    I loved reading this story so much – the markets look incredible – what a treat! The photos are all great – love those little hedgehogs, so cute!

  • 75. Renate | December 11th, 2009 at 6:37 pm | #

    I was born in Salzburg but have never been back for Christmas. It looks beautiful and I love the look of the food as well. I must go back in winter.

  • 76. Sylvia | December 11th, 2009 at 8:14 pm | #

    What a fantastic adventure for you Lorraine and a fascinating insight for us. How divine would those cinnamon curl bells make the house smell especially in our climate when the house has been locked up all day and the aroma has been building with the heat of the day!

  • 77. Natalie | December 13th, 2009 at 9:11 pm | #

    With every year that goes by I adore Christmas more and more and the Austrians know a thing or 2 about getting it right. This was a lovely post Lorraine. I’m only in the UK and I really want to do this next year! It’s too beautiful not to. Thanks again for all your efforts in sharing the magic :-)

  • 78. Johanna | December 14th, 2009 at 6:08 am | #

    ooh you lucky thing to go to these markets – I have just returned from Edinburgh where they have german christmas markets but nothing on the scale of those wonderful markets you describe – I would have rolled home from there as all the food looked so amazing – thanks to your beautiful photography

  • 79. Forager | December 14th, 2009 at 5:40 pm | #

    Woah! What an amazing write up. The photos are amazing and really show off the beautiful colours of a European winter. Makes me want to travel!

  • 80. Svila | December 24th, 2009 at 1:28 pm | #

    I am Austrian, living in Thailand at the moment. While searching for a Malakoff Torte recipe, I found your wonderful blog. Not only do I love the recipe, which I am going to make for my husband today, I found this post – today on the 24. December. Which was such a treat because I miss the Austrian Christmas atmosphere. Thank you for this post and the gorgeous photos.

  • 81. Linda Markus | December 28th, 2009 at 12:35 am | #

    Just loved the post and would love to go someday. Do you know of any web site that sells the ornaments, especially the round glass handpainted with the houses and snowmen?
    Thank you,
    Linda

  • 82. MaidInAustralia | July 5th, 2010 at 1:44 am | #

    OMG, it all looks so delicious! They would have to roll me onto the plain after all that!

  • 83. Joy | November 20th, 2010 at 7:51 am | #

    Wonderful,just wonderful. Lived in germany for 23 yrs and have been away for 7………far too long. You made me home sick, so next Christmas 2011, here I come. Your web site is truly beautiful and very informative. So homesick now and Hungry !!!

4 Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  • [...] means “mish mash”. I have become rather fiaxated on Austrian food ever since my trip to Austria. Of course like many things with a history, there are many legends about it and one of them has [...]

  • [...] cooled, we filled it with stiffly beaten cream and a fantastic Elderflower jam that I bought in Austria recently (yes one of the many jams I brought back with me). We sunk our forks into it and were [...]

  • [...] my adopted blogging daughter from Australia sent her “Mum” some fabulous treats from the Austrian Christmas Markets. Lorraine was in Austria on a media familiarization trip arranged by the Austrian National Tourist [...]

  • [...] my visit to Austria but it still remains a fond memory. I had gone over primarily to visit the Christmas Markets but while we were there I got to try some of Austrian food, not a particularly well known cuisine [...]

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