“Flemington Markets?” the cab driver says looking at me dubiously like I’ve landed from another planet. It’s 5:30am and I guess my half asleep state makes him question my destination (or perhaps I mumbled incoherently). It was my second 4am rise in 2 days. And like the Breakfast on the Bridge, it was something that I gladly rose for. When I was invited to experience a Day In the Life of Justin North, I had an idea that it would be busy (he owns four establishments after all) and full of good food. Little did I know, just how exhausted I would be by the end of it and still no closer to solving the mystery about how he has the energy to do it all.
It’s pouring today – only yesterday, rains had pounded Sydney furiously and they had continued throughout the night into the next day. I’m waiting in the main office at Flemington Markets with a few other people including four competition winners, two from Melbourne and two from Brisbane who had entered a competition to experience “A Day in the Life of Justin” and dine at his restaurants Becasse and Etch.
Justin and his lovely PA Victoria arrive and he explains that there are three large sheds at Flemington Markets and that he and James his Head Chef at Etch head to Flemington markets 2-3 times a week to stock up on fruit and vegetables. The reason why they don’t use a buying agent is so they can get to see the produce themselves and the price fluctuations are so varied that it makes sense to make the decision themselves then and there whether to purchase or not based on what they want to put on the menu. “Watch out for the forklifts” he warns us a couple of times. I’m ready for them having experienced something like this at Tsukiji Markets in Tokyo.
Justin picks up a trolley and explains that today’s list is a relatively small one as they just need to top up supplies. The items on the list have “B” for Becasse or “E” for Etch next to them as that is where they’ll end up and he buys for all four places: Becasse, Etch, Plan B and Le Grand Cafe. We’re starting in the grower’s shed where the actual growers sell their produce. Before we can start, a man comes up to him and poses for photos. He then passes out some Corella pears to us to sample. They’re a friendly lot here and they love a camera.
Justin samples some pears and purchases them. Sampling is common here so that people can try before buying large box. He shows us a box of a dozen eggplants for $15 and give us one to handle. It’s heavy and firm, in fact I don’t think I’ve ever held an eggplant that heavy before. He explains that as they age, they get lighter. Dare I say that most of the eggplants in the supermarket have never been this light (or as reasonably priced). He asks the grower where his farm is and it’s in Windsor as he likes to know where the produce originates from.
Broad beans
There are broad beans that look a little mottled on the outside and when asked why he would buy them, he answers that looks can be deceiving. Sometimes they may look perfect on the outside but they aren’t as sweet and they’re dry on the inside. He buys a tray of beans and cites the beans as an example of how pricing fluctuates week on week. A week or two ago, the same box of beans cost $120, this week it’s $40. The straighter beans are more sought after and command better prices whereas the curved beans less.
Artichokes and zucchini flowers
He then stops by a stand with zucchini flowers. They’re in perfect condition with the petals unwilted and fresh. And how much for a box of these 80 zucchini flowers? $30. Yes if you’ve ever tried to buy these you’ll know how expensive they can be and that a box of 80 of them for $30 is a steal along with a nearby box of artichokes that is $10. He buys the zucchini flowers and then moves onto the next stand. I ask if he has his favourite sellers and he says that he knows where he can usually find good thing and there are some sellers that sell very unique things which he seeks out.
Tamarind Root
Apple Mint
Holding a Golden Beetroot
We stop by a stand where a Tony herb grower from Dural sells some amazing herbs. There’s Apple Mint, Pineapple Mint, Chocolate Mint which all smell distinctly just like the names suggest and Lemon Thyme which are all beautifully fragrant. He tries grape tomatoes which he’ll smoke and shows me a fresh tamarind root and shows us a golden beetroot where he explains that he plays with the minds and tastebuds of diners by doing n orange and beetroot gel with golden beetroot which is orange in colour and a blood orange which is a purple colour. Everyone seems to know him and they call out greetings.
Golden tomatoes
Trying radish sprouts
We then head off to the agent’s stand which is different with items neatly packed in boxes. These are the people that deal with the larger supermarkets etc. Justin buys some golden yellow tomatoes which he’ll use in a tomato sorbet and the seller shows him some radish sprouts which we all sample.
He holds out a punnet of blueberries and tells us that we are to take three blueberries. This will give you the best indication of the punnet as blueberries can vary so much within a punnet and just trying one may mean that you dismiss the punnet because one may not be sweet. One of the agents Donna hands out a punnet of strawberries and she explains to us that they aim to get as much for the growers as possible. If they don’t, the growers won’t send them anything and the growers have an idea as to how much a box of produce can fetch. They certainly rise early: she has three kids and she sleeps between 6:30pm to midnight.
The cart gets bigger and more is stacked on (they key is to stack the heavier items like onions and potatoes towards the bottom) and he explains that on days where they stock up more they will buy up to 3 of these carts and load them into a van which will then get allocated to each restaurant and he then divides it up for each restaurant and gives them the total for their produce.
No it’s not Matt Moran…
Lemon balm
He then purchases a 5kg tray of figs for $40 (at other times they are $80-$100) and we finish off in this shed at Export Fresh stall where we sample an amazing array of micro herbs called “Pocket Herbs” like lemon balm and Greek basil as well as mizuna and mesclun lettuces. The name “Pocket Herb” is because it comes from Pocket Valley although it seems to suit the product as it is pocket sized too. The grower explains that these products will go into the stores for consumers to buy eventually but they initially place these in the restaurants to help to introduce it to the consumer market (also because they only have enough to supply to restaurants). The items then become popular and are then stocked in more stores.
In the classroom of the Sydney Seafood School
Our next stop is the Fish Markets in Pyrmont. Traffic is bad during peak hour and it’s made worse with the rain. We’re running a little late but we arrive there and grab a quick bite to eat before heading up to see the new Seafood Cooking School. The walls are lined with salmon skin (yes truly) and he shows us the demonstration “classroom”, the cooking area and where participants will dine.
Auction area
Red Scorpion Fish
He shows us the auction area where agents go to buy fish (see my story on the behind the scenes of the Fish Market auctions here) and all through the night trucks back up to the entrance and unload the fish and then he takes us downstairs to Claudio’s where he goes through the fish varieties with us. Fish such as the red scorpion fish or gurnard are great for bouillabaisse and fish such as skate is expensive in Europe but very reasonable here at $4.99 a kilo.
We then head to Etch where we’ll spend some time in the kitchen although as it’s a small kitchen (it’s quite seriously small) there’s no opportunity for us to do prep or help out in there. Justin sits down and explains how Etch works and about his commitment to supporting the industry and educating and training up chefs. James his Head Chef at Etch started at Becasse when they were a 30 seat restaurant located in Surry Hills 8-9 years ago and worked his way up from Chef de Partie to Sous chef to the Becasse Head Chef and then to the Licensee at Etch. He leaves the menu writing to James and Tristan and gives them freedom whilst balancing this with supporting them without crowding them or stifling them and the same goes for Becasse where he tries to support the apprentices as much as possible.
He explains why all the baking has been done in house. The kitchen is one that isn’t used between midnight and 7am which is essentially time in which they’re paying rent but the kitchen isn’t working. To rectify this, they then employed a baker who comes in at 2am and bakes for all of the restaurants as well as Plan B and Le Grand Cafe. The next stage? A cookery school and retail stock.
Someone asks him how he got started and he tells us that he left school after finishing 6th form and getting his school certificate. For him the most enjoyable part of school were friends and the arts subjects. He and his friend joined a cooking school in the hope of meeting more girls (which they didn’t) and he liked the way that working in kitchen linked up to the art world. He moved from New Zealand’s Blenheim to Nelson and then up to Wellington in the North Island where he finished his apprenticeship at age 19. It was 1992 and Liam Tomlin and Dietmar Sawyere had just opened Brasserie Cassis.
“Liam is like Gordon Ramsay times ten” says Justin and who realised that Tomlin was a man absolutely obsessed with food. At 5:30am they’d be making the sixteen sauces from scratch for the day and Tomlin would be there showing them how to do it. He tells us that Tomlin felt that there were three motivators in life: Money, Sex and Fear and that he would say to them that he wasn’t going to pay them, he wasn’t going to f**k them so he was going to scare them. He saw that Tomlin was grooming him to be successful and he was encouraging yet did not allow him to get away with anything.
He then went to work with Raymond Blanc who experimented with food and showed him a different attitude towards food and he finds that the two sides, the discipline from Tomlin and the creativity from Blanc still carries through in his cooking today. He was scheduled to work in New York but had to wait a few months and during that time he returned to Sydney to work at Banc with Tomlin. That evening, he went to have a drink at Wine Banc Bar and there he met his wife Georgia. And the rest they say is history as he never made it to New York and they opened up Becasse.
We all get into our personallised, embroidered Etch chef’s jackets which we get to keep (YAY!) and we go into the kitchen. He explains that they lease the space from the company that owns the Inter Continental. They have modified the menu to suit the kitchen and he introduces us to James. I spy the produce that was purchased this morning being used in today’s dishes.
Hiramasa Kingfish with avocado and toasted lime and wasabi mayo
We sit down to lunch with a matching wines and our first course is a gorgeous Hiramasa Kingfish marinated with wet salt, sugar, coriander, star anise, garlic, thyme and chili. It’s rubbed all over the fillet and left to infuse overnight. In the centre there’s lightly toasted lime segments, a mayonnaise based wasabi and a dressed sliced avocado with baby coriander (from this morning). It’s heavenly, the thin slices of kingfish pairing expertly with the creamy avocado and toasted lime and wasabi mayo. Just very well balanced with a lovely Asian influence but not overtly so. The wine is a lovely Austrian wine called Gobelsburger. We notice that he only sips it and he explains that he doesn’t drink much any more. He now practices Pilates and yoga as he realised that his stressful work and constant sampling saw him climb to 120 kilos and this combined with smoking meant that he was a classic heart attack waiting to happen. We learn that he is also allergic to crustaceans or any sea creatures with legs.
Roast rump of Riverina lamb with Royal Blue Crushed potatoes. Served with Chateau Saint Marie.
Our main then arrives and I’m excited to see it’s the dish that caught my eye in the kitchen. It’s a roast rump of Riverina lamb with Royal Blue Crushed potatoes (steamed rather than boiled so that the goodness doesn’t get lost in the water), a gremolata puree and a candied olive gel. He explains that he uses agar agar instead of gelatine as it is more stable at warmer temperatures and prefers to use items in a gel form as it maintains their true flavour. Reducing them down is fine but it concentrates the flavour and for an item like olive that may be too strong. The dish is delicious-the lamb is perfectly tender and I’m a big fan of the gremolata and black olive gel. They’re served with proscuitto topped potatoes which are beautifully crisp and golden and some steamed broccoli with toasted almonds which are simple but satisfying.
Proscuitto topped roasted potatoes
Only last weekend he mentioned going to the Blue Mountains with his wife Georgia (who works at the front of house at Becasse and Etch) and two kids, 3 year old Sophia and 1 year old Charlie where they were sampling some produce. We ask him how he handles it with 2 young kids and both of them working such long hours and he says that they make us of the child care centre in the Building complex next door and that either he or Georgia will pick the kids up from there, take them home and feed them and bath them and then he will return to the restaurant later to cook. I’m exhausted just thinking about it.
So tell me Dear Reader, do you buy your fresh produce mostly from markets or supermarkets?
Etch Dining
Intercontinental Hotel
62 Bridge Street, Sydney CBD, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 9247 4777
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38 Comments | Add your own
Wow that is an exhausting day! But you know what they say, do what you love and you’ll never work a day in your life. I’m so jealous you got to keep the chef’s jacket!
That was my most favourite piece you’ve ever written!! How do you get an invitation to go buy like that? Oh how I would love that!! Produce direct, at its’ freshest – you can’t ask for more than that!!
Justin North is also so inspirational about his preservation of local produce too – you lucky duck!
I buy from the Hawkesbury Harvest Trail for our monthly bulk shop this goes for Meat and Vege. M & A Butchery, and Riverview produce. It’s fresher, lasts longer and seeing where your food is grown is so cool.
This summer though we have a bumper crop in our vege garden and we’re eating a lot of our own – it’s therapy (gardening) turned into food – what more can you ask for ?
That does sound very exhausting. He does accomplish a lot in a day though – I don’t think he could fit anything more in! I think I need a rest after reading it
I would love to say that I make the time to shop at the markets but sadly I dont. I mostly buy fruit and veg from a fruit shop, my meat from the butcher, and seafood from a fish shop, and pantry items from the supermarket, but once again it depends how much time I have.
Wow, you’re so lucky, this looks like a great experience. And you got to keep your chef jacket!!! That’s really clever that they get the baker in during the time that the kitchen isn’t it use! I’m still dying to try Etch, hopefully I will soon.
Fascinating post Lorraine. That kingfish looks amazing.
Wow. That must’ve been an exhausting day! And to think that this is just a regular day for Justin North – crazy! How cool that you got to keep the chef’s jackets
wow, how is that man still standing?! i’d be a walking zombie.
what a fantastic experience!
wow hes so great. i think im inlove haha
wow Lorraine, what an amazing experience. I was just reflecting last night that I have not been to a supermarket in probably over a month. I do have to go there to grab staples like cleaning products etc but other times I am much happier going to Farmer’s Markets!
i’ve only just joined this site and i must say that i found this story most enjoyable. what a busy man!
Ive said it before and Ill say it again. The man is amaaaazing! Swoon! =)
You have such wonderful experiences! In the summer I can buy produce from a farmers market, but mostly I am limited to the supermarket! xoxo Mum
Looks like fun! Love the chef’s jackets.
I’ve always had a crush on Justin North. *teeheehee!* But ohmygoodness can’t believe you (and him!) were in my neighbourhood!!!!
Even more reason to never become a chef! I like to sleep in too much, though it does sound like a cool excursion you got to go on.
I’d be up with you at the crack of dawn to go to a place like this… woohoo! Love the fun you are having Lorraine!
The Wife has a crush on him. I’d best not show her this article or it would only intensify it. Pity she’s an avid reader. Might have to take her out to Etch again.
It’s very true, I do have a crush on him. But YOU are the one that takes me out to dinner sweetheart.
Mel (aka Mike’s wife)
x
First time commenter but long time reader here. I just have to say that you have the coolest job in the world!
I ate at Etch a few weeks ago at a large table of friends and we all ordered something different (I spose we are food bloggers without the cameras and blog). Astounding to think that all of those courses could come out seamlessly from a small kitchen.
Isn’t it great that Justin North gave up so much of his time to this? Really fascinating stuff!
By the way, I just received a survey email from a supermarket wanting to know about my ‘experience’ with them. I slagged off my local store’s crappy ‘fresh’ produce!
Gosh! What an epic adventure! But always a fascinating insight into the busy lifestyle of a chef. Great story – loved every word!
Oh my God that does sound horribly exhausting! I am so impressed with him and his wife’s juggling act! I love Justin North because he doesn’t only do super fancy restaurants. I mean, I like them sometimes, but I also love delicious sandwiches for lunch from Plan B
Great story, you really help put us in the moment with you.
Wow, what a great day! Sounds like a really interesting insight into the workings of a restaurant.
I have really started to branch out my purchasing. Some things just have to be found in the supermarket, but more often, I am hitting the fishmongers for my fish, and the butchers for my meat. And it pays off. A good relationship with the butcher has meant that he really looks after me on quality and price. Worth driving or walking that little bit further for quality!
What an experience! How exhausting but rewarding. If I had to wake up at 4am, my focus would be on the food to come.
Love tasting fresh produce before buying. All market stalls should offer this! hehe
I would wake up everyday at this un-godly hour to do what you have just done but sadly no-one in my family share my level of love and enthusiasm (or madness)for food. lol
I would love to live closer to places that have really amazing farmer’s produce markets but I don’t and have to rely on what’s close. I do visit my butcher, deli and fishmonger and know them by their first names, so I’m treated differently,eg my deli owner Oscar makes me an expresso as soon as I walk in and when he stocks new items gives me a sample and asks my opinion.
However, when I do get the chance to visit a market such as Pyrmont , I’m walking around in a contented trance and always end up buying waaaaaaay too much.
Everything you post is fascinating!
I wonder how he does it everyday! That is so exhausting and still producing lovely plates of food.
I will shop usually at the markest and possible, farmers market. It is seldom that I will get fresh ingredients from supermarkets.
I luv markets like this one..such an adventure all by itself…yum!
Wonderful post, as usual..thank you!
Bee Happy!
What an excellent post. Most people think being a chef is what celebrity chefs do – all glamourous and what not, but it is one of the hardest, most exhausting jobs out there.
I really enjoyed the bit on what motivates people in life (Money, Sex, or Fear) – I have never thought about life in that way. Fascinating.
ps: sadly, I buy most of my produce at the supermarket because i’m always in a rush and the farmer’s market is nowhere near where I live in NYC!
Wow NQN that was such a lovely and insightful piece to read! I’m a big fan of Justin North and I can’t wait to get to Flemington Markets myself. It’s definitely on the To do list in 2010. By the way, can any one go?
Thanks
Heidi
Great story Lorraine. You’re so lucky to be invited for all these cool outings!
I usually buy fresh groceries from Harris Farm but since Coles opened 5 mins walked from here and I’ve been so busy with work we’ve just been buying them from Coles
Great story! Sounds like a fascinating but utterly exhausting day!
I wasn’t familiar with Justin North before, but this was a wonderful introduction. How fun to go even further behind the scenes…and to come out with some sweet chef whites!
I’m exhausted just reading about these days- I buy most of my produce from a local market that tries to only have local produce if it can- I have done some comparesons? with the local supermarkets just to see how fresh the produce is and the market stuff lasted about a week or more longer than the other-the goodness may not have been there as much but it didn’t go mouldy or shrivel like the supermarket produce- the only catch is the markets only open wednesday through to Saturday afternoon so you have to know what you want for the week before hand. sounds like you had a great time though.
Hi Faith-I know, I was exhausted by 4pm!
Thanks, it was so exciting that I got my own 
Hi Liss-Aww shucks thankyou darlin! I was very lucky indeed. Yes you can’t ask for more than that! He’s a very nice guy I have to say. You are a great buyer I have to say! I think I’d like to grow things and do it like that-if I could
Hi Anita-Yes he does so much! I needa lie down after that
Hi sandra-Yes it’s quite hard to do so nowadays. I try where I can and I think that’s great where people can do what they can
Hi Steph-It was a great experience indeed! Yes I’m so proud of that (even though I didn’t do any actual cheffing
) 
Ooh you should, it’s so girly in there!
HI Syrie-Thankyou so much! Oh that was heaven!
Hi Betty-It so was!
I know, I have to say I love it and they got the right size too! 
Hi A Girl Called E-I know! I was by the end of the day!
Hi miss mellie-Haha you may have to take a number for him!
Hi Gastronomy Gal-Wow, you’re a great shopper! I wish I was more like that
Hi J-Thankyou very much!
Hi Brianna-I know, I don’t know how he does it!
Hi Barbara-Thanks, I feel like I really am lucky to experience these things! Yes if there’s a good market nearby that helps enormously! Xxx
Hi Cakelaw-I love mine!
Hi Trisha-Haha I think so many girls do!
You are too cute 
Oh really? Which one?
Hi Tim-LOL yes well there’s that too!
Hi deeba-Thankyou so much! Yes life is a ball at the moment!
Hi Mike-Hehe she may have to take a number judging from the declarations of crushes in this post
Hi Mel-Aww that’s so nice!
x
Hi Kendra- Thanks and welcome!
Hehe it feels like it on days like this! 
Hi Maria-Yes you’d be amazed at the size of the kitchen if you saw it!
Hi Belle-Yes so lovely!
Haha good on you for being honest! 
Hi Forager-Thankyou so much! It did feel like an epic adventure come to think of it
Hi Alex-Yes it must be hard with 2 kids! Yes he seems to have covered all the bases!
Thankyou so much, that’s what I aim to do so that’s such a lovely compliment!
Hi orla-It was! Yes I had no idea about a lot of it and how much work went into a restaurant! Yes I definitely agree with the butcher sentiment!
Hi Adrian-Yes exhausted and rewarding is just how I’d describe it
I agree! I’d buy so much more that way!
Hi matilda-Hehe same here! OH what a lovely relationship you have! That’s amazing!
You sound just like me at the markets 
Hi Blond Duck-Aww thanks sugar!
Hi penny-I know! I so couldn’t
You guys are so lucky too having the Queen Victoria markets! 
Hi Pam-Thankyou so much! You are too kind
Hi La Pastry Chef-Yes most don’t realise (myself included) how much hard work there is! Hey that’s fair enough, sometimes life doesn’t allow for it!
I thought the money, sex or fear comment was hilarious!
Hi Heidi-Thankyou so much! Yes it was my first time there but such great buys! Yes anyone can go to Flemington markets
Hi foodie-central-Thankyou! Yes I feel so privileged!
I know what you mean, sometimes it’s a battle with time! 
Hi Jacq-Thanks so much! I agree, I was exhausted by the end of it!
Hi Brittany-He was chef of the year 2009 here
Yes I was so happy when they said we could keep them!
Hi kathy-Hehe me too!
Yes it always seems to doesn’t it! Yeah we don’t have a huge produce market here that is open every day which is a shame! I did have a great time thanks 
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