The view during our drive to Orange
Our arrival to Orange was under the cover of darkness – not deliberately so but by the time we got ourselves together and made the 4 hour drive down to Orange (and there were the obligatory stops along the way), the sky was pitch black and out in the country away from the city lights, it gets very dark indeed. It was close to 10:30pm on the Friday night when we arrived in our borrowed Toyota Prado Kakadu 4WD thanks to the nice peeps at Toyota.
Our Toyota Prado Kakadu
I’m normally rather ambivalent about 4WD’s – you see I used to live in Mosman where I am sure that 99% of the 4WD’s there had never touched a speck of country dirt but for country driving, and particularly after this drive, I’d definitely rather go in one given the gravelly dirt roads. Apart from the suspension, from an amenity standpoint, it has a cool box to keep drinks and food chilled and the sound system in it is excellent (apparently the result of their sound engineer in Japan being somewhat of a sound aficionado) and if you happen to have children, it keeps them amused with DVD screens and headphones. And then there’s the lack of rattling and rocks hitting the car when driving on country dirt roads (it was so quiet and smooth I fell asleep several times).
The Black Sheep Inn: a converted shearing shed
We arrived at the Black Sheep Inn, an award winning Inn just a few minutes outside of the city of Orange. As planned, our key was waiting for us in the door and the other guests were close to retiring. So we did the same and awoke the next morning to a lush breakfast prepared by Helen, the owner of Black Sheep Inn.
Rhubarb and strawberry compote with Greek yogurt and pine nuts
Served on a converted old wool sorting table there were six other guests already enjoying breakfast. We were served fresh strawberry and watermelon juice, coffee, Ronnefeldt tea and our first course, a rhubarb and strawberry compote with Greek yogurt and pine nuts. The rhubarb and strawberry are slightly tart and enhance the creamy sweetness of the Greek yogurt and crunchy pine nuts. Helen tells us that the strawberries were sourced from a local farm as the focus here in Orange and the Black Sheep Inn is local produce. Although I’m not a yogurt in the morning kind of person, I eat everything on my plate.
Corn and coriander fritter with smoked salmon and a poached egg
Our next course is a corn and coriander fritter with a smoked salmon rose and a large poached egg with a lime twist. She explains that the eggs are local and come from a free range, organic farm. This dish is very good indeed and I finish it in no time due to both hunger and lust and look around and see that I’ve finished first (I hate it when I do that, it makes me look so greedy).
Home made preserves
Our last course is some freshly toasted sourdough squares with their home made raspberry jam, marmalade and honey. I’m too full to try this so I have a couple of bites – the raspberry jam is particularly good. And with a quick chat with our friendly American dining companions about food of course, we set off for Orange Markets.
Held on the second Saturday of the month, the Orange Farmers markets are housed in the centre of Orange. Entry is with a gold coin donation although this will also give you entry into the raffle. There is a decided emphasis on fresh produce and local produce at that. People drive up in their vans and set up their stands and proffer their fruit, vegetables, meats as well as baked goods, olive oils, jams etc.
Trunkey Creek nitrate free bacon
I see many around me clutching fragrant bacon and egg rolls and I make a mental note to come back. I see that they have nitrate free bacon which looks unusual-instead of being pink it’s a light grey shade, much like roast pork.
Budgi Werri Prunes
Orange Paling Yards stand
Jams, chutneys and sauces
We walk around and see stands with unusually flavoured jams (no samples though and I’m on a jam ban at the moment after bringing back 18 jars from Austria), Budgi Werri prunes which are lusciously soft, Huntley Berry Farms, Paling Yards Grove, and we bump into Gina Allen who catered the Toyota Prado launch. There are also some signs that state the altitude at which the fruit and vegetables are grown with the tagline “Produce with Altitude”.
Gina Allen’s Quince Jelly
Cherry season!
Berry Ice block $1
I buy some biscuits from her as well as a cheese and spinach roll as it smells so buttery good. We try the dressings at the Paling Yards Grove stall and they’re delicious, particularly the poppy seed and the lime and dill. We buy a berry ice block for $1 from Huntley Berry Farms (things in orange are very reasonably priced) but it tastes more like apple juice than berries to me.
Straniere Olive Oils
Jam flavours like Crabapple Jelly, Dumpie Dearie Jam and Tangelo
Guess what this is?
Garlic!
I spy some small, purple flowers. I ask what they are and he hands me a tiny morsel which looks like a seed. “Bite into it but you might want to spit it out” he says and I take a bite. The most pungent garlic aroma comes from this absolutely tiny seed. I buy a few bulbs of the organic, locally grown garlic in both the smaller and larger regular garlic head size and then buy some of the small garlic flower heads (5 for $1). I take them home to dry out as they’re still quite fresh.
Explaining the garlic taste
Bacon and egg roll (using nitrate free bacon) $6
We walk back past the meat stand and I enquire as to whether the bacon and egg rolls are using the nitrate free bacon. The young girl says that unfortunately they’re not but then her mum says “Why not, we can do one for you” which delights me as I really wanted to try it but knew that I couldn’t bring it home as there is no room fridge at the inn. They fry a packet up and then make me a bacon and egg roll with BBQ sauce but then make sure to put a plain piece of the nitrate free bacon on top so that I can taste it without the BBQ sauce. We try it and it’s fantastic. Not as smokey as bacon but oh so good. We finish of the whole roll happily.
The shop “A Slice of Orange” in the city centre of Orange sells most of the produce that is sold at the markets if you don’t happen to be in town when the markets are on.
Back in Orange’s city centre we stop by The Teahouse and the friendly owner greets us and asks us if we’d like to sample of the teas. I love Turkish Apple tea and so I ask to try that and she hands me a cup of Iced Turkish Apple tea. Clever strategy as it’s in my basket within the first few sips. She asks if I’d like some samples and then shows me the three earl grey tea varieties which she gives to me in generous sample sizes. We walk past a group of ladies that are partaking of an afternoon tea there and look wistfully.
We then go for a little drive that afternoon to the neighbouring areas and we stop at Millthorpe where we visited an Old Fashioned Sweets shop called Olde Tyme Delights where sweets can be purchased by the number or by weight. We spied all sorts of goodies including the following made into lolly form: chicken’s feet, ears, NZ Boysenberry & Creams, hats, giant Coke bottles, seafood cocktail and piglets!
That evening, we booked ourselves into Lolli Redini, said to be one of Orange’s best restaurants with a SMH Good Food Guide Chef’s hat. Most restaurants here have a two course minimum and here two courses is $60 and 3 courses is $75 not including wine. We walk into the restaurant and it’s buzzing inside with large tables of families and friends eating and drinking as well as couples. The interior is a warm red and larger tables have some banquette seating. We breathe a sigh of relief as it’s quite dimly lit but by pure coincidence they seat us at the table under the lights.
Complimentary nibblies: grissini wrapped in Spanish proscuitto
While we are deciding they bring out bread and an appetiser which is grissini wrapped in Spanish proscuitto. It’s lovely and garlicky with the grissini crunchy against the salty, delicious proscuitto. The small olives are the items that we both love and Mr NQN eyes me up making sure I don’t take more of my allotted share. The pips are large and the olives small but they’ve got a lovely flavour without being too overpoweringly salty.
Six Moonlight Flat “Clare de Lune Bouton” Rock Oysters served with Lemon & Lime Granita and cucumber spaghettini
The oysters are topped with a lemon and lime granita and cucumber noodles which is nice and refreshing but the granita is a little on the sweet side making it taste like a sweet sorbet.
Signature Twice baked Heidi Gruyere Cheese soufflé with shredded spinach salad and toasted walnuts
The cheese soufflé is rich and wobbly and turned out into a pool of rich creamy cheese sauce. It’s topped with red onion, greens and walnuts which is nice although the walnuts could perhaps do with a bit more of a toasting beforehand. It’s light and lovely in texture and I use the rest of Mr NQN’s bread roll to mop up the creamy cheese sauce.
Roasted Moisture Infused Pork and Crackle, Honey Roasted Pears, Paris Mash and Buttered Wombok Cabbage
I recall some happy memories of the Murray Valley moisture infused pork we were given at an Australian Pork dinner a while back. When I saw this I clapped once I saw the magic word “crackling. We had only discussed this dish that very morning with the fellow American guests at the Inn. In the U.S., pork belly isn’t seen to be a premium cut at all and they told us that it is mostly used to flavour soups whereas we have it appearing on our high end restaurant menus regularly. The pork it has to be said is wonderfully juicy and the crackling is good although it’s not that gorgeous earth shattering crackling as the moisture infused pork is soaked in brine which means that the crackling doesn’t crackle up so much (unless you dry it out for a day). The honey roasted pears are a nice complement to it (although some more pear would not go astray) and it’s a good alternative to roast apples. We also adore the super creamy Paris mash.
Veal Roasted Pancetta and Sage, grilled parmesan polenta, smoky pancetta speckled lentil sauce, Swiss brown mushrooms
The pancetta wrapped veal is good but needs a bit more seasoning. It’s paired with lentils and wilted, buttered spinach and soft shallots and whilst it’s a good dish, when you consider the juicy pork dish it’s hard to compare the two. We glance at the clock, we’re in and out in 1.5 hours and way too full to contemplate dessert.
We ask about who Lolli Redini is – certainly it’s not the chef’s name (which is Simmon Hawke) and they explain that Lolli Redini was the name of an artist, now 80 years old, who is called GraziaLolli Redini, from the Tuscan village of San Gimignano.
So tell me Dear Reader, if you were going to open up a restaurant, what name would you give it?
NQN and Mr NQN travelled to Orange as guests of Toyota Australia
Black Sheep Inn
91 Heifer Station Lane (off The Escort Way / Forbes Rd) Borenore-Orange NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 6369 0662
Orange Farmer’s Markets
Held every second Saturday of the month from 8am-12noon
http://www.orangefarmersmarket.org.au/orange/default.htm
The Tea House
215 Lords Place, Orange NSW
Open monday – friday 10.00am – 5.00pm, and saturday 10.00am – 1.00pm
Old Tyme Delights
7 Pym Street, Millthorpe
Open Friday-Monday 10am-4.30pm Cash Only
Lolli Redini
48 Sale St, Orange, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 6361 7748
A Slice of Orange
Shop 2, 200 Anson Street, Orange, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 6369 0396
Ppen 7 days a week. Mon – Fri: 9am to 5.30pm, Sat: 9am to 3pm and Sun: 10am to 3pm.
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52 Comments | Add your own
Wow awesome post! I never been to Orange before. Love the way the Black Sheep Inn looks, that’s super cool!
and dishes at Lolli Redini looks so good!
The name of my restaurant has been given by Richard, “meathouse.” It. says. all.
What is Greek yogart like? I’ve always been curious.
I’m so thrilled you did this Lorraine. My closest friend who just got married on the weekend is moving to Molong so Orange is going to become my new weekend destination. I’ll make the sure the first visit is on a farmers’ market weekend. We have markets in Wagga too….. maybe you could come here…..
Wow – have never wanted to travel to Orange before… Think if I go, then I’ll take elasticated trousers though
!
Loved this post. That’s my idea of a perfect getaway!
Jam, oh jam. I love making jam!
what a great review of orange lorraine loved it – i did a few similar things in new zealand, like exploring small towns and stuff so i’m gonna try and do a mini town review as well hehe
18 jars, you brought home from austria? thats too funny hehe
i love these kinds of markets i went to one in canberra and its so refreshing to see fresh local produce being sold, most organic, or home made baked goodies etc.
i think i’ve tried a turkish apple tea before, with rose petals and some sugar (i think) from t2 in the city but i thought it costed too much and that i’d get sick of it too soon (or actually i dont drink much tea i mostly just drink water)
i was meant to go to orange last yr but i couldnt make it (we were going to go to dubbo zoo) but its still on my to-travel list so ill keep this blogpost in mind for when i do plan to go again
Wow, such a nice trip to the farmer’s market…I enjoy seeing all the pictures, specially the food…they look so yummie
By the way, Happy New Year Lorraine!
you do take the most fun and interesting trips, lorraine! although i always enjoy a farmer’s market (especially if garlic is among the offerings), my favorite portion of this is that inn–i love little places like that!
Wow, sounds like a fantastic getaway, it’s on my list of things to do this year! And the Black Sheep Inn looks stunning…
I think you got me at the breakfast compote. Such a fan of a good b&b!
Shame about the jam ban! Looks like they were going off on the jams that weekend. I haven’t made it to Orange. One day!
Ooh it all looks so yummy! And I love the look of the market. There’s nothing like something like that. If I opened a restaurant … I really have no idea what I would call it. It would depend on the type of food I would be cooking as I love all types, from sushi to Irish stew to Canadian pancakes! I’d have to nail down some sort of genre and go from there …
Thanks for the great post!
That Inn is so cute =) I think I can see the sheep shearing equipment too. You pick the coolest places NQN =)
Haha, totally with you on being irked by the soccer Mum’s with their 4WD that never leave the tarmac of the north shore. Pretty awesome that you got to test one out though. I am drooling at that cheese souffle!
What a lovely sunrise on the way there!
I love Orange, the food is fantastic and we also went to a local rugny game which was great. Bloodwood winery is fantastic, I still order a case of their riesling twice a year.
Hi there…wow what an awesome post…I used to live near Orange and remember when Lolli Redini first opened up and went there often…Happy New Year to you♥x
Great post Lorraine! Brekky at the Black Sheep Inn looks amazing – I wish I had someone to make that for me every morning
The garlic flowers sound intriguing, it’d be interesting to taste such a strong garlic flavour coming out of a tiny seed!
Had an excellent meal at Lolli Redini many years ago. Good to be reminded of it and we may have to go again. It has been too long between visits.
Hey NQN:
What a fantastically beautiful place. Thanks for sharing it. Thanks for all that you write about and do. xxo from your new fan,
SAUCY
looks like a great trip – I love that hotel – fantastic place and great food – and I love being able to wander around the markets with you
Looks like you had a rather delicious trip, but I must say, after having myself spent the entire day on Greyhound buses eating packaged food, I would give anything for that luscious-looking and fresh dish of fruit compote and greek yoghurt!
Great post and very generous of those Toyota folk. And I do love Orange! It’s got such a great foodie atmosphere and appreciation.
The market looks like great fun, and I love the garlic, but I’m not sure you could have pulled me away from the Inn!
If I had a restaurant, I think I’d call is Alioop, the nickname my mother has for my niece. What name would you give yours?
I did a similar trip a few years back and was so impressed with the foodie culture in Orange, starting with the farmers markets and continuing on to numerous eateries.
Lolli Redini was booked when I went, but I can recommend Union Bank wine bar a few doors up the road, great for a sunny afternoon with a cheese plate and glass of wine in the courtyard.
I also stumbled upon a wonderful classical concert being held at the Conservatorium, by the Orange Regional Symphony Orchestra.
Orange is one of my favourite places in NSW…everyone should visit at least for a weekend!!
I want your life! you have the most amazing time, driving scenic paths and traveling to explore foodie cultures…I live vicariously through you!
I love the places you go to!u lucky girl!:)
I love farmers markets. So much local produce and everything just seems to taste better. Peoples passion for growing their produce shows in what they sell. I like 4wd but the reason I don’t own one is because it a little to big fo a shorty like me eheheh
What a grand post this is, Lorraine!! Beautiful pictures of the stalls, the garlic & the lovely plates of food!! Fine food too!
I too have been to Lolli Redini and LOVED it!! Beautiful food, served by lovely people in a wonderful atmosphere …
A breakfast that has multiple beautiful courses is a great breakfast indeed!
I’m so tempted to go to Orange now! Those garlic look divine…mmm roast garlic!
i would usually comment on the food but I have to say that the Black sheep Inn looks gorgeous!! did you drive at all? my dad has a 4wd which i’m too afraid to even reverse out of the garage.
Hmm I feel like I need to defend the the Australian Restaurant industry for there use of pork belly! What are those Americans saying! Both The French Laundry and Alinea have it on their menus, as do aloth of other top US restaurants, I’m sure! Nose to Tail eating is becomimg very popular now with pigs cheeks, ox tongue and oxtail coming back into vogue!
Look at that sunrise! Australia is definitely amazing, isn’t it?
What a wonderful start to 2010 Lorraine. Orange looks great, oh so many places, so little time. You’re very lucky that Mr.NQN is such a lovely,obliging husband who happily partakes in your foodie adventures.
Awesome trip.
Had to smile at your mention of being the first to finish your dish. Sometimes I have to force myself to slow down to prevent this from happening too often in one meal
No idea what I’d call my restaurant, but it certainly wouldn’t be the same name as my blog. Don’t want to scare off any beef lovers!
I like the part where you get to try out the flash Toyota just because you talk to foodies like me! Nice going Lorraine. I’ve only recently joined and really enjoy your blog. Cheers from sunny WA.
What a fantastic trip Lorraine. I’d heard so much about LolliRedini, really want to try it out, but no trips to Orange in the near future so reading this is the next best thing.
love all the pics, and er, am I the only one to see something a little rude in that ice-block?
Gorgeous as always. I would so love to be able to visit the places you do (that spa you went to has become my dream vacation).
Reading one of the comments above, are farmers’ markets not common there? Here in NY we have many of them, some year-round.
And I don’t know where those Americans were from, but pork belly is a very popular cut in restaurants here, and really throughout many fine dining restaurants across the country. Just David Chang and his Momofuku empire alone make great use of it!
What a wonderful trip! I love the rusticly streamlined look inside the Black Sheep Inn…it’s got so much character! I thought those little flowers were some kind of clover, I never would have guessed garlic!
Hey Lorraine, I’m Helen’s younger sister! i was so excited when i saw this blog its so cool that you went to the black sheep inn and hope you enjoyed your stay.
Hi Yas-It’s a cool little place and they seem to like their food which is great!
Haha you two! 
Hi Blond Duck-Oh it’s fabulous! It’s really thick and creamy with a slight tang-absolutely delicious, you should definitely try it Duckie!
Hi Amy-Oh fantastic! You’ll have a ball there! I’d love to one day!
Hi Claire-Haha I like you way of thinking!
Hi Liss-Hehe thankyou ma’am!
I know you do! 
Hi Betty-Thankyou! OH yes please do! Yes I am a jam addict
Oh cool! Well if you do, try and go when the markets are on! 
Hi Juliana-Thanks so much, you are too kind! Happy New Year Juliana!
Hi grace-Why thankyou ma’am!
I know, aren’t these places gorgeous!
Hi Myriam-OH fabulous! I’m sure you’ll have a wonderful time
It’s so unique!
Hi Fiona-I know, I love it when they take the breakfast up to another level!
I know, jam was everywhere! :lol;
Hi Jenn-Thankyou! Ooh the best of everything? I like it! You’re welcome!
Hi Brianna-Yes you can, well spotted! Aww thankyou
Hi Steph-I know! They so don’t need a 4WD! I have to say that they’re nice and smooth to drive though!
Oh that souffle was so good. I want to make one 
Hi Cakelaw-It was a sunset but agree it was amazing!
Hi Kel-Ahhh yes we saw the turn off for that winery! Good to know!
Hi Dzintra-Thankyou so much! I’d love to go back as the food was fabulous! Happy New Year darling! Xxx
Hi Jacq-Thanks so much! I know a 3 course breakfast at a B&B is a nice idea indeed
It was so concentrated, I’ve never tasted it that strong before!
Hi Mike-Ahh fabulous! Sounds like a grand idea!
Hi Saucy Smith-Thankyou so much! You are too kind darling!
xxx
Hi Johanna-Thanks so much! I think we really got lucky with all of those places
Hi Hannah-Ahh yes! You poor thing! Yes that should be at the end of every trip!
Hi Forager-I know, they’re so generous! Yes they take it quite seriously there
Hi MaryPoppinsinHeels-Haha yes it’s hard to leave! Aww that’s so cute! I haven’t really decided on one although I don’t know if I would do well if I owned a restaurant!
Hi Beck-Yes they’ve really built it up to be a food destination which is nice. Yes we were lucky to get in and we couldn’t get the time we wanted. Ahh cool thanks for the recs!
Hi sophia-Hehe you are so funny!
Hi zurin-Thankyou! I feel very lucky indeed!
Hi Katherine -You are so funny!
I love your comments!
Hi Sophie-Thankyou! You are so sweet! I can’t wait to use the garlic
Hi Jane-Yes I can see why it’s so booked up!
Hi mlle délicieuse-I completely agree! I wish all breakfasts were like that!
Hi Shirley-Oh you should!
I’ll definitely roast some and see how that goes! 
Hi Panda-Haha yes it’s so cute isn’t it! I didn’t drive as I can barely drive our Peugeot let alone a huge 4WD
Hi Vintage Macaroon-Ahh I think they meant the South in America as they were from Texas
Hi Trisha-It’s a gorgeous sunset isn’t it!
Hi matilda-Yes, so many wonderful places out there! I know, I’m very lucky
Hi Conor-Haha I know the feeling exactly! It’s hard too as I’m usually too busy enjoying it to notice! LOL good point!
Hi taxing woman-Hehe thankyou so much and welcome!
Hi shaz-Ahh yes if the bookings are any indication, it might be around for quite a while!
Haha you are too funny! 
Hi Sairis-Thankyou! Oh yes Wolgan Valley was such a treat!
They’re not that common, certainly they’re not on every day although Victoria has the Queen Victoria Markets which are on daily although I don’t know if they’re strictly farmer’s markets. You’re lucky! 
Ahh yes in Chinese restaurants I think it’s very popular. I can’t imagine Chinese cuisine without it 
I think they meant the South States of America like Texas 
Hi Faith-Yes it’s quite a striking combination isn’t it! I know, I’d never seen them before then!
Hi Aimee-Oh very cool! So nice to meet you
It was nice and cozy and I loved the breakfasts 
Your post made me so home sick! I love lolli’s and orange has become so foodie in the last 5 years – brilliant!
I LOVE the Orange farmers market. I live near Newcastle, and we have a local one, but it pales in comparison to Orange. That market should be held up as an example to what to do, and what to have, at other so-called farmers markets around the country, which are more often than not simply resellers, rather than farmers selling their produce, or food artisans selling their goodies. (Artisans. Wanky, but I mean real food made by real people with love and care!) Newcastle has a few good stalls, but could be vastly better.
Hi LexEat-It has hasn’t it! Such a good destination for food
Hi Carol-It’s great isn’t it and they have a really good range of produce. Yes some of them here aren’t really farmers markets! I’d love to see more of them
Hi NQN. I moved to orange nearly a year ago. So excited to see my new home given such a glowing review! I’ll definitely have to go to Lolli’s now. How good are the bacon & egg rolls at the markets?! If you ever visit again i recommend the Union Bank for long lazy afternoons, and stop by one of the orchards to pick cherries – $5/kg. Mmm…
Yum, sitting in snowy, cold Geneva salivating at the produce from the place of my birth…..
NQN – how did you manage to leave Orange without visiting any of the local wineries!?! And Mr NQN may be interested to know that over the next few months two micro breweries are establishing themselves in Orange also.
Hi QNQ,
Orange is definately a fantastic place to visit. They have such an array of food and wine. Just a reminder if your interested to visit Orange again, Food Week is coming up in April.A shame you didn’t come and visit a place called “Totally Local”, its a local produce shop that stock products that you can find in the farmer’s market as well as wide range range of local & regional wines.The shop supports a concept called the 100 mile diet, sourcing produce within the 100 mile radius. Majority of products are within this limit, if not the products are often Australian made and a family owned business. They have a unique “walk in coolroom” where you can find cheeses, dips, meat etc. And have I mentioned the wide range of wine-prices are often the same as what you would pay at the cellar door. Well hope you pop into this very unique store with fantastic friendly staff who go out of their way to certainly help you.
Carol, ignorance is no excuse for stupidity. In your case I think unless you know what your talking about you should keep your obviously stupid and ill informed mouth shut. I shop at the Newcastle farmers market and if you actually get of your high horse and talk to the stall holders you will find out that they are the farmers and producers. It is nice to see some photos of Orange Market some of the farmers who attend orange also can be seen at Newcastle. I will continue to shop there and talk to the farmers, probably because I am no so up myself as to have to think that I have to leave Newcastle to find something good. Typical Novacastrian always down on Newcastle looking to other places to show them the way.
Reading the NQN posts has become my new addiction, I’ve decided its the only way I can consume myself in luscious food & sometimes travel the world & not gain a single kg!!
When I saw your post on Orange I got quite excited – I went to school at Kinross – such great memories of my years in Orange but who would have thought that old cow town had blossomed into a foodie mekka! You make me want to go back & see this new improved Orange. Thanks Lorraine.
I was born in orange and was excited to see this post. Probably heading west next week and seeing if I could make it to the markets!
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