Camel Pie?
It was Day 2 of our Sydney to Melbourne Coast drive tour and we had just left Paperbark Camp in Jervis Bay. After a bit of a time we drove through to Mollymook in the hope of having lunch at Rick Stein at Bannisters. Sadly the restaurant wasn’t open for lunch today so we had to keep going and before long eagle, eyed Mr NQN spots a sign proclaiming “Camel pies” from Hayden’s Pies. We have to stop and try one, after all how often is one offered a camel pie?
Yes Camel Pie!
We chuckle – the address is “166 Princes Pieway” according to the sign. We walk in and service is friendly and we get a square camel, coriander and chickpea pie to eat outside and tomato sauce is from a giant pump dispenser (don’t you love free sauce? It’s always extra in Sydney). The camel meat (from the camel rump) is similar to a beef or lamb, although slightly more sinewy and the filling is soft and tender with a tomato-ey base with whole chickpeas and ground coriander and it’s a very good pie indeed with is a buttery shortcrust pastry. Apparently the camel appears often on the menu and if it doesn’t, there is usually a game option such as venison, rabbit or kangaroo.
The Bodalla Dairy Shed
The shop display inside
After a long drive and a quick nap from me, we drive through the town of Bodalla. At the same time Mr NQN and I ask each other the same question “Isn’t there a cheese called Bodalla?” and before we know it, we’ve happened upon a very cute converted dairy shed. It’s pure retro country charm and the perfect place to rewater ourselves with an icecream and coffee. Inside is gorgeous with retro chairs, a jukebox, a shop at the front that sells dairy themed items including a milk soap, creamed honey.
We choose a double scoop of ice cream in blueberry cheesecake and passionfruit which is made by the Pure Gelato company and a coffee which comes with a buttery biscuit. Service is very friendly and the gelato is most welcome on this sweltering day. The passionfruit is refreshingly good and just the right amount of sweetness but the boysenberry cheesecake is what we both like as it’s pure sweet boysenberry and cheesecake.
Passionfruit ice cream and Boysenbery Cheesecake ice cream
The view in Narooma
Spot the Pelican!
We then check into our room at The Whale Inn at Narooma. Since I was young I’ve always had a lover of whales and I used to always draw sperm whales as they were so distinctive and easy to draw so I squealed when I heard that we were staying at the Whale Inn. Now I’m not usually a Motel or Motor Inn kind of gal you understand so I’m a little wary when we pull up. The room however is well appointed and with free wifi, and LCD TV and it looks modern and renovated. Mr NQN goes down to nearby Narooma beach for a surf.
That evening, we go downstairs to The Whale Restaurant which has a mesmerising view of Narooma and the water. the inlet to the left is said to set the benchmark for the cleanest water in NSW and when we drove past it, we remarked at how blue it was. Service is very professional and friendly. Sadly as there has been some flooding, the local oysters aren’t available which is a pity as Narooma and neighbouring Batemans Bay are known for their oysters. The menu is modern Australian with some local specialities and there are cute details explaining things such as baklava to diners. The opening page tells us how they support the Slow food movement and that they have Whale Garden and that they try to use as much local produce as possible although we do see a New Zealand salmon dish which is said to be their signature. There’s also a two course set menu for $29.
There is an appetiser of eggplant cubes in herbed oil with crispy croutons which is delicious with the soft egglant cubes going well against the crunchy oily croutons. The cheese puff pastry twists are good too especially when dipped in the oil.
Crispy risotto balls with South Coast pecorino with a finger lime glaze $12.50
The crispy risotto balls are satisfying crunchy on the outside with a stringy pecorino cheese interior. There is a balsamic glaze and a finger lime glaze which give it a bit of added dimension which is something I find often lacking in plain arancini balls.
Chick pea, green bean and smoked fish salad $14.50
There are three different types of fish in this fish salad: Mahi Mahi, conger eel and mullet, all sourced either locally or along the South coast and these are filled and hot smoked by the chef. It’s a fresh , tasty salad with fresh herbs, tiny cherry tomatoes and the delicately smoked fish although the green beans are a bit too crunchy. In each corner is a thick balsamic glaze.
Palate cleanser: red wine granita
We then have a palate cleanser in the form of red wine granita which is best described to us as frozen Gluwein. It’s true and full of sweetness and aromatics from cloves and cinnamon which give it that Gluwein touch.
Roast NZ organic salmon $28.50
Said to be the chef’s signature dish is the New Zealand roasted organic salmon which is coated with a kelp crust served with a finger lime beurre blanc. The salmon with the sauce is fantastic-the kind of dish that you insist that your dining companion try and even though Mr NQN and I are to swap I am reluctant to do so. The saffron jasmine rice isn’t really needed but I do like the pickled seaweed and a deep fried spinach dumpling although Mr NQN feels that only the fish is needed in the dish.
Rabbit and mushroom pie $28.50
The piping hot rabbit and mushroom pie comes out with roast potatoes and salad. The pie is made with local rabbit from Bega and it is strong in white wine (perhaps too strong for me). Given that I prefer the salmon and he prefers the pie we agree to taste but then swap back.
Baklava with apple and rhubarb bavarois $12.50
The baklava we’re warned is not like a traditional crispy baklava. Mr NQN likes this although I do hanker for a traditional baklava. The bavarois is like a firmer version of pannacotta made with whipped cream and creme anglaise although this doesn’t taste very strongly of apple or rhubarb.
Selection of Australian cheeses $16.50
We’re a bit floored at the huge portions here (don’t you just love going to country areas where sauce is free and servings are generous?). There are four sizeable wedges of cheese where $16.50 is likely to net you one portion in Sydney. The four cheeses are Maffra Cheddar from Victoria, Meredith Blue from Vic, A South Coast, Brie from Bodalla and a Raclette from Northern NSW. Accompanying it are water crackers, soft cuts of bread, dried apple, peach, prunes as well as house made quince paste. Quince paste and water crackers are my favourite way to eat cheese so I’m in Little Miss Piggy heaven here. The brie, blue and cheddar are lovely although we are less enamoured with the raclette which we’re used to having melted rather than fresh.
The next morning I have a quick potter around the Whale Garden where fresh herbs and other goodies are grown.
I then sit down to a huge country sized breakfast which I can barely make a dent into no matter how hard I try! Ahh country sized servings, how we appreciate it!
So tell me Dear Reader, what’s your favourite thing about the country area to you?
NQN and Mr NQN travelled from Sydney to Melbourne as a guest of Sydney To Melbourne Touring.
Hayden’s Pies
166 Princes Highway, Ulladulla
Bodalla Dairy Shed
52 Princes Highway, Bodalla, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 4473 555
The Whale Inn
104 Wagonga St ( Princes Hwy), Narooma, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 4476 2411
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49 Comments | Add your own
And your epic trip continues. You have tried some great looking food. I really like the look of that salmon dish. It really embraces the taste of the sea and features the star ingredient.
i’ll be honest–i have NEVER considered the possibility of eating camel. i didn’t know it was done. how interesting.
now, on to more important things–BAKLAVA! meh, methinks i’d prefer the traditional as well.
What wonderful photos, Lorraine! Sounds like you had a great time, and agree completely, love the country-sized generous servings! What I love about holidays in the country is the pace – everything is so much more relaxed..
it’s not often you see fried eggs coming out of rings these days. i love the fresh air of the country
There are lots of things I love about the country, seeing as I choose to live here. Slower lifestyle, no traffic, friendly people, affordable housing, fresh air, I could go on
There are lots of things I love about the city too so I enjoy them when I go to Sydney for work or to visit friends and family. We coming after Easter and I really want to go to Adriano Zumbo’s patisserie AND café…..
Ahh m country area? A little rural town called Canberra. We all went out last night to sit by the lake and watch fireworks.
Your trip sounded great – food and views superb ! The salmon a highlight for me. Thanks for sharing another great post
Yay! We spent summers at Narooma when I was growing up- we even stayed at the whale inn sometimes – it was VERY different then!
A highlight for me was always the Bodalla cheese factory – looks like it has had a much needed revamp. My parents have now retired down there – it’s a beautiful town and it’s great to see the small towns starting to appreciate good food. I hear there’s even a proper coffee shop there now! Go Narooma!
Thanks for reminding me of such wonderful times Lorraine!
We also recently had an ‘interesting’ family experience with local ‘butterfish’ down there. Have you heard much about this fish? delicious, but there are consequences!
Wow, you have impeccable timing Lorraine! You’re posts always seem to co-incide with my cravings
We’re planning a trip down south but after seeing the moo merchandise, camel pie and that cheese plate we’ll definitely have to get ourselves down there asap!
Its a shame you missed out on Rick Steins, we’re hoping to give it a try.
Look forward to the remainder of your trip!
I LOVE the breakfast… whoa.. you know, you get to eat out all the time,so jealous.. I’m budgeting right now, after the house.. I’m poor!
If I didn’t know better, I’d think these photos were in Cali or Florida….I have to be or live near palm trees…but despise the Japanese hot summer..
The Wife and I had a romantic mid week stress break , only for one night at Echoes Resort in the Blue Mountains which is about a 2 hour drive from Sydney . The place is very swish and newly renovated with views from the restaurant across the Jameison Valley . Good to spoil yourself sometimes .
The dairy shed is so quaint and pretty, I’d love to dine there! And camel pie? I’m intrigued.
I am just loving these pies, Lorraine… they are really wonderful to look at and must have tasted soooo good!
PLEASE tell me you stopped off at the Bodalla Bakery, a few doors down from the dairy shed? They make THE BEST strawberry tarts and eclairs and EVERYTHING, ever! with fresh, and I mean fresh cream from local dairys. We don’t bother with the dairy shed when we go down south, its straight to the bakery all the time! And hayden’s is always a must stop
I love the divinely bovine decor!!
Good on you for trying camel pie.
SSG xxx
I love finger limes. Did you find them to have the same flavour as ‘normal’ limes? I’m a bit upset that their wonderful unique shape is taken away when they are cooked though ha.
Gosh I am so jealous! This looks like such a beautiful trip – I would love to try all three of these places. I am from the Blue Mountains – not quite country and not quite city, which is probably why I love it. I love that you see people you know every time you go to the shops, and it’s a nice relaxed atmosphere, but it’s also close enough to Sydney there’s plenty of yummy food, great cafes and quirky shops.
Rabbit pie, yes. Camel pie, well I don’t know. Last I checked, we have no camels here, except the kind you smoke. hehe
I absolutely love driving along the coastal route from Melbourne to Sydney and just stop at all the small cafes and try their local favourites! Beautiful scenery with yummy food, nothing beats that! oh wait! there is! traveling with loved ones of course! (:
Love hearing about your adventures. I love going for a good road trip in the county. Nothing makes me happier than stopping for a meal and eating local produce. My favourite place to visit for a meal is Victoria’S Yarra Valley where at the local wineries the meals are a foodies dream and the local wine is fabulous.
Camel pie sounds most interesting indeed and I know I’d have to give it a try if I came across it too!
I find country service friendlier, although the husband and I did scare an elderly lady in a country supermarket queue once – possibly because we were the only Asians around for miles!
I love the shots of the garden – it looks to be thriving!
The pleasures of the slower pace and fresh air of a country life are not to be underestimated!
When you first said camel pie, I thought it was just a name, like grasshopper pie which isn’t really made with grasshopper….and then I see that it’s REAL camel! Whoa! I had no idea this existed! Wicked cool!
Hi Lorraine, thanks for the post we are driving down to Melbourne on Saturday….will make note of your stops and see how it pans out for us!!! Can’t wait…..
Camel pies, you had me worried for a minute…thought they were going to be the same as cow pies, if you catch my drift.
hahahaha
I did spot the pelican, sleeping atop the lamp post! There’s another interesting-looking bird on one of the other lamp posts, but I can’t quite tell what it is. Possibly a bird of prey.
My dad hails from Narooma and we will be down there soon for the school holidays….will definataley be trying these establishments…especially the pie shop….love a good pie
I’ve been reading recently about the camel meat industry. It’s quite interesting and good to see a problem animal being used for food! I’d like to try the pie, oh yes I would!
I love the smell and the sounds of the country. I can close my eyes and imagine them now, and it makes me calm and peaceful
What a pity you missed out on the oysters Lorraine. I had half a dozen of fresh Narooma oysters last night (my mum just came back from there) and they have such a exquisite creamy saltiness when they are very fresh.
If you ever venture that way again I recommend going further south to Bermagui. I grew up there and it is very beautiful.
I love the country area for its generosity of spirit and complete lack of pretension. The fact that I invariably on holiday whilst I’m there also helps!
Hayden’s Pies are pretty scrummy, though I must say I’ve not yet sampled the camel! The chicken pies deserve a special thumbs up, because it’s rare to get a tasty, tender, chunky chicken pie that’s not all gravy, sinew and unidentifiable protein.
If you venture back Mollymook way for Rick Stein’s, you may also want to wander over to Cupitt’s Winery for some slow food. Mmmmm – slow food.
I love the use of the local ingredients in all the dishes, have never been to Australia, but everyone seems to take such pride in their produce, wonderful to see! We get camel burgers here in Morocco….but never seen a camel pie! Lovely post!
The Engineer and I have yet to venture on a road trip from Sydney to Melbourne. But we would love to do it one day. Looking forward to the next installment!
I wonder where they source the camel meat from? I would give it a try, all the food looks great and isn’t it wonderful to drive around our beautiful country discovering these quaint little country towns. I live in a rural area and just love the fresh, unpolluted air, the stillness of the night, the music of the birds and insects, there is so much to love . Then again, I also relish a trip into the city and apart from the pollution there are so many sights to see, festivals, events and great places to indulge in the finest food. Each has it’s own forte.
I too am keen to try Bannister’s and definitely will do so when I head South. How coincidental that I was reading about the Pure Gelato company just the other day and read about it today in your story, it looks mouth-watering!
Funny how the pies you ordered are all square – is that a country trend, LOL! Lovely photos, I really love the smell of the fresh air, you can’t smell traffic in the country!
Oh, Lorraine, you eat at the best places! I want to travel with you! Fantastic! The pies look and sound scrumptious – and I must say, as weird as it is, camel is to someone what beef is to us, so not so weird I guess. That gelato looks to delish and the meal at The Whale in fabulous! And that ain’t bad for a motel! Beautiful room. So, where are we going now?
And some of it does indeed remind me of traveling in the country in New England (USA), cute, airy places, cute boutiques, big portions of yummy food made with fresh local products. Fab!
Woo that salmon looks really nice. I wouldn’t normally eat it but that does look good. Country sizes are also very awesome!
This looks like a fantastic getaway, Lorraine! I love these hearty, rustic dishes…I would never have thought of camel pie but it sounds really delicious! My favorite thing about the country are the farmers’ markets…I can’t get enough shopping, even in the country!
We did a road trip years ago from Brisbane to Eden ( and then another time to Melbourne) all along the coast. It was incredible scenery, beautiful towns, but the thing we still talk about were some home made “Wagon Wheel” type biscuits from a bakery in Berry. We had bought them, stashed them and ate them later in the trip. Unfortunate, because they were the best we’ve ever tasted, and would have driven back for more, if we weren’t so far down the track! Next time maybe…..
Lorraine,
Camel pie … hmm looks interesting, very very different in deed.
We had croc and roo burger in Melb, they were nice.
The thing I love about the coutry area is the atmosphere. It’s just the feeling you get, more laid back and relax which I always enjoy very much. I like travelling to country area, I always look forward to it.
Please do more posting about it!!! so then we can enjoy the same expirience that you’ve had. THANKS!!!
These places look gorgeous! Last time we went to the South Coast, we only got as far as the Ulla Dulla. We did have breakfast at Bannisters though and highly recommend it. Your post, is giving me a hankering for another road trip down South.
I love the inside of the Bodalla Dairy so cute!! Camel pie – hmm, interesting.
your photos make me hungry!
Camel pie sounds intriguing… I ate kangaroo once and liked it very much but you don’t see it on menus here very often!!
I’m so intrigued by the camel meat – I’ve tried kangaroo although it’s hardly native, but camel’s a new one!
i wish we had places like that around here, for the pies that is. i could do without the kangaroo though!
Honey roasted pumpkin, spinach, and feta? Yum!! Hey, why are they spelling feta with two Ts?
Thanks for coming to visit our part of the world. You’ve really done us proud with your comments and gorgeous photos. Wow. Thanks again, Jane – Bodalla Dairy Shed, x
I never even knew that camel meat was available!
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