One afternoon I found myself busy packing ready to hop on a plane. Mr NQN being Mr NQN had left me to pack his things. So far I’ve got black pants, black tops, black boots and a black coat. Guess where I’m headed with this wardrobe? Mr NQN and I were off for a weekend adventure in Melbourne!
I had first had a quick glimpse of the Crown Metropol when Nic and I had dined at Maze a month or so ago. It was a modern building, all sleek surfaces, glossy black glass and mirrors and large sculptures in the lobby. So when Mr NQN and I checked into the hotel a few weeks later I was intrigued to see what the rooms were like.
We are given an oversize room on the 12th floor with access to the 28th floor guest lounge. We settle in and unpacked. The room is spacious with a great view of the city and water with a good selection of Madame Flavour teas, a proper sized working desk (I hate small desks), an excellent magazine selection, an open plan bathroom with privacy screens and the most heavenly robes you could conjure up (and yes I contemplated buying them as I didn’t remove them the entire time I was in the room). No wonder we see fellow guests wandering the halls in these. Is it wrong to want to do everything in them? And is this how Hugh Hefner got started? I only wish that there were slippers (thongs are provided) and there was a bit more shower pressure and amenities.
We head to Hu Tong, a dumpling bar that is said to serve brilliant Xiao Long Bao (or Shao Long Baos as they call them). Housed down a laneway opposite the iconic Flower Drum restaurant that could be any laneway in Asia it looks promising. But you know I’m tough on XLB’s and a little bit obsessed 
It’s not at all what I expected. I was expecting something like Sydney’s Shanghai Night, all plastics and “don’t linger” vibes but this is funkier and with a host of men and women with ear pieces guiding us through to the second floor to our table. If anything it reminds us of a Surry Hills restaurant and there’s a definite buzz. The menu features a red stamp next to the signature dishes. Service is brisk and brusque with just one or two waitpeople offering a smile.
Shao Long Bao $10.80 for 8 (East china)
When you’re at a dumpling bar and when you’re with Mr NQN there is really no choice other than to order dumplings. We start with the Shao Long Baos. At first glance I’m a little crestfallen. Half of the little buggers seem deflated as soon as they set them down and sure enough they’re bereft of soup. Disappointing. We pick up a plump one that looks to be full of soup and that is much better, the lovely ginger flavour coming through. They’re very similar to the ones at Shanghai Night although the mince in a Shanghai Night dumpling is firmer whereas this mince is softer. Other than that they could be doppelgängers (down to the soupless ones which we’ve experienced at Shanghai Night too). They are also more expensive here though.
Wontons with hot chilli sauce $8.80 (Szechuan)
Mr NQN didn’t want to order these wontons as he isn’t a fan of chilli oil. Luckily I overruled him and we end up adoring these wontons. It’s the sauce that they’re in which is made up of soy sauce, chilli, vinegar, Szechuan peppercorns, sesame oil, dried chilli seeds and fresh spring onions and is absolutely moreish. In fact I keep the sauce for other dumplings and contemplate ordering more. I’m even drooling thinking about them now!
Steamed Shrimp Dumplings $6.50 for 4 pieces (East China)
We were less enamoured of these dumplings. The skin on these was very thick and rather than being prawn dumplings, they’re pork and prawn dumplings with a dominance of pork and not very good prawns.
Boiled pork dumplings $11.50 for 12 pieces (North China)
These are Mr NQN’s favourite dumplings and they’re ones I usually only have one of. He likes them as he can stuff himself silly on these for a relatively modest sum. The filling for these is delicious, much more flavoursome than any that we’ve had before but the pastry on some of these is too thick and some end up being raw doughy.
Pan fried dumplings $10.80 for 8 pieces (Shanghai)
These are similar to the pan fried dumplings that we get but the skin is completely different, more like a the steamed shrimp dumplings rather than the fluffy white bao type outer. They’re filled with soup and fried on a thin layer of egg white. They’re not bad at all though with the bottoms being nice and crispy.
Dong Po Square Soft Pork (Hangzhou) $7.80
I had to order this as the mere words “soft pork” are too hard to resist. It comes out cut in two with three pieces of soft bok choy. I pick one piece up and it almost falls apart making its journey to my plate. It’s wondrously, unctuously soft and delicious although it necessitates a bit more pouring of that mystery red sauce onto it for flavour. It reminds me of the lovely soft pork belly filling you get in the leaf wrapped glutinous rice dumplings.
Szechuan bean cud with minced pork $13.80
Our last dish is the Szechuan bean curd with minced pork. Even though there were two chillies next to this entry on the menu, the chilli barely registers on our tastebuds. We should have perhaps stuck with the original plan and had our dumpling fest and eaten it without peering at the rest of the menu. Viva la dumpling!
So tell me Dear Reader, what is your favourite dumpling joint?
NQN and Mr NQN travelled and explored Melbourne as a guest of Tourism Victoria. They stayed at the Crown Metropol as a guest of Crown Metropol and Tourism Victoria.
Hu Tong Dumpling Bar
14-16 Market Lane, Melbourne, Victoria
Tel: +61 (03) 9650 8128
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64 Comments | Add your own
It’s a dumpling heaven! I can’t wait to go to Melbourne, but I might want to wait for warmer weather…
The hotel looks very nice! Shame about the XLB – I agree that bad dumplings are such a disappointment. The best dumplings I’ve had in Sydney lately have been in a resto inside Chatswood Chase – can’t remember the name now, but my blogger friend Spice and More took me…
This restaurant got a write up in The Age this week, as they have just opened a Prahran branch as well – the review said that the original was the best. I am keen to try this out based on the reviewer’s praise. I like Oriental Tea House (I like Prahran the best, but Little Collins St is also good) for dumplings.
Not much choice in Canberra. Suggestions welcome!
ps the Hotel looks great!
my oh my – what fun!!!! I will have to remember this place next time I am in Melbourne!
I am currently planning my trip to the city (I am in Vic, but in the country) and looking for 3 things:
A hotel with a heavenly bed;
A high tea;
and a dumpling joint.
Was the Crown Metropol awesome or what. My partner and I hardly left the hotel when we were there. The facilities were to die for. We also indulged in room service dining. We were so pampered!
Ooooh dumplings … how I love thee! It’s nice to see a dumpling house go to some effort and make the surroundings much more appealing than the usual neon and plastic ensemble. The shao long bao look so deflated and sad!
Lucky you a trip to Melbourne – you have made me homesick – and craving XLB as well!
My favourite is HuTong! The XLB’s are usually fantastic, You must have just picked an unlucky night to go! They are usually so full of soup you need to be careful about it dripping down your chin! The State Dumpling and Brisket I think its called is my all time favourite though, give it a whirl next time your there!
Wow Crown Metropol looks awesome! I want to stay there now
Din Tai Fung in World Square is best – the shao long bao there are juicy and the chicken broth with noodles is a winter staple!
Frank and I are heading to Melbourne in August, and now are are DEFINITELY going there! We haven’t tried Shanghai Nights yet (as I’m on some silly wheat-free thing for my stomach) but we will soon…
I would highly recommend Mahjong in Fitzroy Street, St Kilda were they have delicious dumplings and a really good range of yum cha options. I went to Hu Tong last Friday night and I have tried the Prahran restaurant aswell, I was very disappointed and not very impressed by the quality of the dumplings. Next time you are in Melbourne, book yourself in for yum cha at Mahjong – I think its the number 1 place at the moment.
I’ll be there next time I visit Melbourne.
Hi…sorry to hear that you didn’t have an out-of-this-world XLB experience here in Melbourne. I too am a huge fan of the XLBs and have eaten them at Hu Tong many many times. They are usually sensational so I hope your readers will give them a go. Thanks for recommending the wontons with hot chilli sauce. I’ll definitely be trying these next week.
Hu Tong does seem to be a bit hit and miss – at both locations.
I like Oriental Tea House for dumplings and their great range of teas.
Crown Metropol is AMAZING. I hope you and Mr NQN checked out the infinity pool on the top floor….(that’s why you have thongs provided in your room) there is nothing better than swimming while watching the city bustle below.
I’m a local and I haven’t checked out Hu Tong yet, I will have to add it to my list pronto, looks divine!
I love to go to the South Melbourne Market and buy my own dumplings to cook at home. And no I’m not talking about the “Famous South Melbourne Market Pork Dim Sims” I actually think that they are not very good, too chewy.
The place to buy them is a shop in the food court located at the top of the meat and deli aisle. It’s opposite a pizza shop.
They have delicious pork buns, and pork dim sims, the dim sims are VERY peppery but I love pepper. There is also a prawn and water chestnut dumpling that is beautiful. I don’t like the vegetarian ones, they are a bit flavourless.
If you are looking for a quick snack on the spot, you can buy freshly steamed pork dim sim, and the vege spring roll (large) is actually very tasty.
You pack for Mr NQN? And he lets you? Very fancy looking place – but i’m of the opinion that dumplings shouldn’t be expensive. Cheap and cheerful (or not even cheerful) is the way to go.
Shanghai night. Got to be and with Din Tai Fung a close second. I prefer DTF in some cases because their menu is more extensive and I prefer their dumplings.
I can’t believe you pack for Mr.NQN. He is a very lucky man!
i really need to get out more.. especially for dumplings!!
These are a few of my favourite things.
I LOVE dumplings. Shanghai Nights is top of the list but I am happy to have them anywhere as long as the dough isnt chewy.
Just tried the Bamboo Dumpling in Balmain. Dont bother…
Must book that flight to Melbourne!
I cannot say I have had dumplings, pot stickers I have had and look similar to dumplings
with chicken and vegetables in them. Once again it would be nice to eat food through my computer screen. What a nice room you had. I would love that.
Wow, those soup dumplings look so depressing! You should definitely go to the Northern Dumpling Kitchen whenever you visit Toronto, Canada. Actually, the restaurant itself is just outside of the GTA.
I find that most dumpling restaurants make very greasy pan-fried dumplings. Were the ones you received heavy with grease?
I wish I hadn’t read this post- the dumplings in chilli oil look amazing and now I am craving- may tweet to see what Bris has to offer in the way of Dumpling Restaurants.. I fear it isn’t much.
Skip everything else. Bring on the HOT CHILE SAUCE aand the DAGOBA COCOA/CHILE Powder!
LORRAINE….LOVE YOUR recipes!
Am teaching my friends NEW
RECIPES rather than DRAB here
in Alerta…CANADA. WOW !!
MY Compliments to Mr.NQG. He has
got to be a most HUNGRY..Patient
Man. A REAL LOVE !!….V….
Ooh so jealous you got to stay at the new crown…I may live in Melbourne but I have been keen for a night there!
I have a favourite dumpling joint – but I never remember the name! Its in China town and every time I walk past it I go “thats the place!”
The Crown Metropol rooms look gorgeous! Quite similar to the Crown Promenade which I stayed at a few years ago.
The dumplings look so delicious. I know my boyfriend would be drooling at the site of the pan fried dumplings (his absolute favourite thing on the planet).
A and I would love a weekend like that *continues to dream* lol
Lorraine, next time you’re in Melbourne you have to try the Shanghai Dumpling House in Tattersals lane. Its one of those ‘brusque’ places you were talking about – tables packed in, plastic water cups etc. Not classy in the slightest but there’s a reason why there’s always a line out front (don’t worry you never have to wait more than 5 mins for a table!)
I love this place! Only been once, but it’s delicious and definitely nicer than some of the dirt-cheap dumpling bars in the city (Camy Shanghai etc.)
While I’ve only been once, and the food was great, the service was spotty and not great. Could have been the night though.
yum! We are goimg to melbourne next month so guess where I am going to eat?! I love anything dumpling-ish
A night of dumplings! Does it get any better than that? And if Mr. NQN doesn’t like the chilli oil wontons, I’d happily scarf up his share.
I’ve never had soup dumplings – yet another thing to add to my itinerary whenever I manage to make it to Sydney!
Those wontons in chili looks divine – I’d add chili to cookies if I could. Oh wait, I have
Have just come from a long lunch at Bamboo Basket a South Brisbane. Great dumpling joint, although I have to say I am no expert. They have a picture window out the front of the restaurant where you can watch the Chinese chefs making dumplings and noodles. Great fun and great food. Decor – quite gorgeous and service – excellent.
I been to Hu Tong 4 times. The first time, when it first open was amazing. The next three, very spotty service and inconsistent food.
The Dumpling sisters, Shanghai dumpling house & Oriental Tea House can be just as good.
And the mini crab cakes at Camy are so good.
I’m not a big fan of Hutong. Their dumplings are mediocre at best, and the skin! tough. =/
Shanghai dumplings as well, I’ve been a fair few times and the general hygiene (or lack thereof) of the place just puts me right off.
After hunting around for a fair bit, I gave up, so I just make my own now. At least if it sucks, I know it’s my own fault! There’s a little dumpling joint near my place out in the suburbs that is actually pretty darn good. So when I don’t make my own, I go there. =D
We go to a dimsum dumpling house in Belconnen that is all-you-can-eat for $16.80. It is always hot and fresh and they will cook to order if the dish you want isn’t on the trolley. You would think that perhaps there wouldn’t be much food….but you would be so,so,wrong. It’s not top-top end of course, but it’s still very yummy!
Ps. I have to pack for husband too.
I have wanted to go to Hu Tong and your post has only further enhanced that desire. Although I have to say it would take a lot to beat New Shanghai’s xiao long bao…
Those wontons in hot chilli sauce look wonderful@ ! Imagine eating them wrapped in the robe – ahhhhh, blisss.
I endorse the suggestion above of the Chinese place in Chatswood Chase (down the bottom in the revamped food court) – the dumplings are yummy and very good value. They have really spruced up the food court – it might be worthy of a blog post!
Lucky you! And all those dumplings… drool. Can’t wait to check out Hu TOng next time I’m in Melb
You were lucky to get a table. During the recent June long weekend, we tried 3 times and were rejected. The guy at the door was absolutely RUDE!
Daaim! I wish Tourism Victoria could fly me down to Melbourne to review the town
My favourite dumpling place at the moment is Daniang Dumpling – corner of Goulburn & Dixon Street in Haymarket. It’s cheap, quick and fantastic.
I tried Din Tai Fung at World Square once, and once I had a wisdom tooth extracted.
Needless to say I won’t be doing either again…ever.
Been to all the Sydney dumpling hotspots like Ashfield and Kingsford – and the best is still that little restaurant next to Menya at Haymarket, followed by New Shanghai at Chatswood Chase at second place.
Just make sure you go to the Chase one, not Lemon Grove.
I like the dumplings at Hutong. But there are still not really good enough especially after I returned from China… so I make my own…
I love the effort they put into the decor compared to the ones here in Sydney!
My fav XLB is at My Chow’s. Pricey but sooo good..
Yum, these dumplings look amazing! My boyfriend is a little obsessed with Chinese, and subsequently dumplings. We used to frequent the dumpling place in World Square, Sydney, but now live in NY and funnily enough, one of the best places in the city for soup dumplings is just down the road from us!
HuTong is okay, but only a few dishes really stand out to me and you’re right in saying the xiao long bao are hit and miss in terms of the soupiness.
If you’re ever down again, head out east to Box Hill and give D&C Dumplings (not be confused with the David and Camy’s across the road though!) a go. They are the most consistent xiao long bao around. Some of the other stuff there can be a little hit and miss, but those soupy little suckers are always brilliant there. The chef is a real character and if he’s not busy, he’ll often pop out and have a chat or help you to choose a new dish to try.
HuTong in Prahran is the goods. Have heard many reports this is better service and soup dumplings are delicious.
What a fun getaway! The food looks amazing, especially the wontons in hot chili sauce — I’m glad Mr NQN liked them too!
That’s so funny. Your dumpling bars are set up like our tortilla presses down here in Mexican restaurants! You can see these old ladies behind glass just making tortillas.
The good xiao long baos seem to look a bit deflated, think it’s the really thin skin. The place looks really nice!
I’m glad that some Asian restaurants have finally caught on that they don’t have to look like a fast food joint nor a cheap imitation of the Imperial Palace.
Man! I have gone to the city outlet too many times but tonight, I went to the recently opened South Yarra outley. JUst as amazing but a better fitout as well.
Two servings of their Shanghai Dumplings was mandatory and a perfect ending to a hectic week.
mmm xiao long baos!! i get so upset when the juice has escaped. i love them soupy. the soupier the better.
so you two were the ones dining in the hotel dressing gowns
seriously, sounds excellent – any vegetarian dumplings on offer should I ever have the opportunity to visit
Great food but we weren’t told when booking for 6.30pm that we were expected to be gone by 7.45! The staff brought all the food at once and kept refilling our wine glasses making no secret of their desire to see us gone. This was not dining in any shape or form. This was eating fast food. Very unimpressed!
I love Hutong Dumpling Bar, love their xiao long bao. How did you and Mr NQN manage to eat so much?!
After reading your review I made it an urgent goal to go to Hu Tong, and today I did! My partner and I were seated on the top floor and had no troubles with the service (as I had read in other reviews). We went there for lunch (around 12.30) and it was already quite packed. We ordered the Shao Long Bao (of course), pan fried dumplings, wontons with hot chilli sauce, szechuan pickled vegetables and hot and sour soup. Our favourite was by far the wontons with hot chilli sauce. The Shao Long Bao was our second favourite.
All in all, I have to agree with everyone else here that this place is amazing and I thank you a lot for your review on it!
P.S: my partner and I are going to Sydney at the end of the year and I have already gathered a loooooooong list of restaurants I want to go to from reading your blog! =)
- Bianca
My friend and I found a place in Melbourne called New Cum Den, which does nice dumplings. They also have a very tasty dish of rice wrapped in a lotus leaf, with meat in the centre of the rice. It’s not the best looking restaurant, but the food is really tasty. I’d definitely be open to other suggestions in Melbouren though!
or Melbourne. Sorry! lol
I only recently went to Hu Tong on a trip to Melbourne and despite being completely packed at dinner, we were asked to come back in half and hour (after a drink in a nearby bar)and were given a seat and lovely quick service. All our dumplings were great but the xiao long bao were the standout – I am now completely in love with them!
Went here recently and loved the dumplings!
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