Mr NQN and I are spoilt. We are used to relying on our GPS and our reliance on the stiff speaking male voice is apparent. We’re an hour late to our Maori Food Trail cooking class at the elegant Treetops Hunting Lodge (we quickly learn that “Lodge” is code for ultra  luxury hotel here in NZ). We’re embarrassed and ring a couple of times and finally find our way down the secluded track to Treetops lodge where two large metal deer hold sentry. The gates slide open and we drive up the 2.5km hill to reach the lodge itself passing several of the 300-400 deer that roam the 2500 acre property.

Eru Tutaki

A smiling face greets us in the kitchen and it’s Eru Tutaki the Maori chef that is going to show us some native Maori foods. We start with a coffee and a cookie while he gets to know us and we him. The 36 year old father of three grew up in a town which was so small the population there was 30 people. At 17 he moved to Wellington where he studied for a Bachelor of Visual Maori Arts. He then studied  sculpting creating figures in chocolate which then sparked an interest in food. Growing up, Eru wasn’t taught Maori so he rediscovered his roots when he started cooking. He learnt the Maori language and he uses it and his knowledge and research in his food to conduct these food trail tours which are based on Charles Royal’s tours but with an additional component of culture and language.

We were originally told that we’d be looking for native ingredients in the 800 year old forest and then coming back to the  kitchen here to cook it. “Not quite…” Eru says and shows us to the room where I am to change out of my leather boots into a pair of gum boots (and yes the only ones that fit were Zebra ones ). For not only are we going out for a trek among the forest but he is also going to cook the food that we pick out there. I squeeze Mr NQN’s hand in excitement.

We head off with several layers on as the temperature changes as we head towards our final destination, the Bridal Veil waterfall. The forest is quite young in terms of what it can produce so whilst he doesn’t use the ingredients in the cuisine at the lodge as they need more to keep up with the number of guests, he uses them in these tours. He expects that in 15 years, the forest will be able to produce what is necessary to serve at the lodge. Eru conducts 6-7 tours a month although some days he can conduct up to four tours as word spreads around the lodge about the tours.

Pikipiko fern

Eru tells us that Maori food and ingredients are said to be traditionally quite bland without a lot of seasoning but have a lot of medicinal properties. Seaweed was used as a replacement for salt when preserving fish. He shows us the Manuka fern that produces Pikopiko (the young fronds of the fern). There are over 350 ferns in New Zealand and we had eaten the trunk of the punga fern at the Hokitika Wild Foods Festival.  He turns over the fern and breaks it and then explains that the Maori tradition is to thank the fern by massaging or stroking it releasing the spores.

Tawa Berry

Read More

My friend Joan Holloway aka Tess sits in the cream leather chair facing the water. She’s wearing an elegant cream dress and tall black suede heels and a black swing coat. I’m not fortunate enough to resemble any of the Mad Men cast and I am late. So very unchic. After two well placed air kisses we heads towards the Harbour Kitchen and Bar. It’s early at 11am and we’re here for morning tea.

The Park Hyatt was where Mr NQN and I spent our wedding night and it always holds very fond memories for me. It’s the kind of place where people feel soothed and pampered. Except for when we sit down and are handed the menus. There is no high tea at this hour here and I am dejected at missing out on something I was looking forward to for days. The waitress is firm that there will be no high tea for us.

“Please excuse me, I’m just going to the ladies” Joan Holloway says. Using her best Joan Holloway powers of persuasion she somehow sweet talks the restaurant manager into letting us have High Tea. I think channelling Joan will just about get you anything from a seat in first class to the best table at a restaurant. We have to wait for an hour while they prepare everything fresh but when there’s good company and girly gossip to catch up an hour flies by.

$72 High Tea for two, $36 per person

Read More

Photo credit: The Travel Channel

I am holding Anthony Bourdain’s cell phone number. Three years ago, when I started my blog, never, ever did I think I would be in this position let alone interviewing Anthony Bourdain. I deliberately don’t have cable TV at home because when I have it I sit in the hotel room and just watch No Reservations.

When I read other reviews of his new book Medium Raw, I was a touch confused. I checked my copy of Medium Raw to see whether we received some bizarre edited version in Australia but no, it was all kosher. It seemed that I had a different interpretation of it to many of the other reviewers who had read it. I thought that it was a kinder, gentler Bourdain whereas they focused on his heroes and villains chapter. He is a provocateur of course but he also makes many very salient points and like Simon Cowell, you may think that he is a bit blunt but he may just be right about things and he makes you think. He also champions the unrecognised in the industry as well as bringing chefs like the wonderful Fergus Henderson into the spotlight.

I was intrigued to find out what he was like. I knew he gave good quote and that his opinions had changed over the years on various matters and that he himself has said that he likes being proved wrong. I also knew that his life had turned around from his previous novel. And without blathering on any more about what I thought, without any further ado, here is my interview with the intriguing Anthony Bourdain.

Photo credit: The Travel Channel

NQN: I’ve read Medium Raw, loved it, but I get the impression that after the anger in Kitchen Confidential that underneath it all you’re a decent and sensitive soul. Is that bad for your reputation?

Anthony Bourdain: I’m real glad you think so. I had hoped that that was the case and I was trying to write a book that was more like that than the other thing. Here it’s been received as a lot more vicious and out of control in a lot of ways I guess because I went after a lot of the more recognizable names in this part of the world, the elder statesmen of food writing. Yes I hope so. I thought I was writing a kinder and gentler book. I’m very aware of the fact that I’m not working in a kitchen its been years. Of course I’m aware every minute and every day that I’m the father of a three year old girl. That’s who I am now. I just wanted to write about it.

NQN: My favourite chapters were the first one which was pure food porn about the Ortolan and the one where you tell us about how you managed to convince your little girl that McDonalds was evil in a rather clever way. Did you ever think that you would be a father?

Anthony Bourdain: I was determined not to be one until just a few years ago. I suddenly had an epiphany and I realised I wanted to have a baby now and I want to have a baby with this woman. I’m old enough.

NQN: What was your reaction when you found out you were having a daughter rather than a son?

Anthony Bourdain: You know it’s funny I do not believe in this metaphysical mumbo jumbo but I was away shooting an episode and I came back and I looked at my wife’s face and I knew it was a girl. And a few minutes later we went to look for an ultrasound and they told us it was a girl. I was thrilled. It’s all about girls for me and quite frankly I’d like another one. I’m really really, really enjoying being the father of a little girl. I am the sun and the moon to this little lady and I’m enjoying that feeling.

Photo credit: The Travel Channel

NQN: I read somewhere that your daughter is growing up eating prosciutto flavoured baby food.

Anthony Bourdain: (Laughs) Well baby food in Italy is very different than baby food here. She’s eating real food but she has unusual taste. Most of the time she eats like every other little kid like hot dogs, macaroni and cheese, grilled cheese sandwiches but we’re in Italy a lot and her mother is Italian so she sees things on the dinner table that a lot of kids don’t see on a regular basis. She likes raw oysters and sardines and anchovies and pecorino. That’s kind of weird for a kid. I’m not trying to raise a foodie it’s just what she thinks looks good that mama and dada are eating.

NQN: You’re not going to put any raw oysters in her lunchbox at school?

Anthony Bourdain: Oh god no that’s just so wrong. Let her be a little girl. That’s just not my intention at all of course. I’m secretly very proud and happy when I see her reaching for something like an oyster I can’t help but think it’s cool but I think she’s like a normal Italian kid.

NQN: Will she ever get one of those evil chicken McNuggets?

Anthony Bourdain: She’s never had one and I will do my very, very best to keep her away.

“It’s like going to a mental hospital and picking on the patients”

NQN: What are your dreams for her?

Anthony Bourdain: All I can hope for is a happy, healthy kid with no self esteem issues who knows that she is loved. Weird would be good, if she’s a little weird then that’s good.

NQN: If she grows up to be a chef?

Anthony Bourdain: I would of course be mortified at the first mention of the possibility but then again secretly proud. Of course I’d be proud but I’ve lived that life. It’s a hard life. I would hope she would choose something else but I’m going to try to not steer one way or another. She’s going to make up her own mind no matter what I say so I just want her to be happy and feel good about herself.

Photo Credit: Royce Carlton

NQN: Does your wife Ottavia work in food?

Read More