Monthly Archives: September, 2010

Meet My Suburb: Auburn Food Tour

auburn food tour

When I receive an offer by email from Somer Sivrioglu from Balmain’s Efendy restaurant I am giggling with glee. For a tour by one of Sydney’s top Turkish chefs to the Turkish rich area of Auburn is like getting a local’s tour with an inside track on Turkish cuisine! Auburn is a suburb in Sydney’s West with a lot of Turkish and Asian cuisine. Some friends have found it slightly intimidating to go there from the distance to the shops with unfamiliar ingredients but others have revelled in the other worldly atmosphere – not unlike being on a holiday. Auburn is also home of the largest Mosque in Australia so this has meant that the people that live in the area has now changed. It used to be mostly Turkish but now there are people from Africa and Morocco as well as Asia.

As we drive to Auburn Somer tells me a bit about himself,  the Turkish food scene in Sydney and his restaurant Efendy (which means “gentleman” in old Turkish). Turkey is a country that focuses very much on regional cuisine and that is why it can be hard to replicate it outside of Turkey. Certain areas are known for excelling in certain products and people will buy the products from there. There are also regions that are known for being gastronomic regions.  Turkey also occupies an area between the Middle East and Europe and in fact Istanbul is partly in Asia and partly in Europe.

auburn food tour

Somer visits Auburn once every two weeks to get inspired and to shop for produce. His speciality is mezze and his changes day on day according to what is available. Even though it is a predominantly Muslim country, Turkish people like to drink and the aim of mezze was to complement alcohol. Their drink is called Raki which is an anise based liquor with a 50% proof like  across between ouzo and ayran and when mixed with water it turns cloudy. Foods that are heavy in olive oil or protein are needed to eat along with the Raki.

auburn food tour

A friendly local

The other item that he likes to buy on his trips out to Auburn are lamb’s testicles which are very hard to source . They are so hard to find that lamb testicle loving customers need to call ahead to the restaurant to ensure that there will be some available. Turkey is very much an offal loving culture with tripe, sweetbreads and other organs on the menu. Cooking culture is very much ingrained in Turkish culture and Somer tells me that recipe bartering is common-but of course a recipe may be given missing a crucial ingredient ;)

Somer grew up in the restaurant industry as his mother owned a restaurant in Turkey. He moved to Sydney as he was looking to get out of the armed services and an Australian university was the first one that accepted him. He draws similarities between Sydney and Istanbul but now calls Sydney “home”.

RT Turkish Delight

auburn food tour

auburn food tour

A rose scent fills the air and I look up and smile. Founded in 1974 RT Turkish Delight makes my favourite Turkish delight-the hazelnut and coconut Turkish Delight.  Real Turkish Delight is somewhat of an institution. Started 25 years ago by Bahattin Pektuzun who has now passed, it is now run by his three sons including Bill and Eddie who I meet today.  Somer tells us that he used to buy his Turkish Delight direct from Turkey but he now buys the Turkish Delight from here. It is fresher as it doesn’t have to travel very far and the flavour and texture are very good.

auburn food tour

They also hold the world record for the largest Turkish Delight at 3.2 tonnes in 2003! It took four people 64 hours to make this in split shifts. It was displayed in Darling Harbour and then sold off in 6 kg slabs and raised $12,000 for Westmead Children’s Hospital. It was a rose flavoured Turkish delight without nuts to weigh it down. Interestingly, rose flavoured Turkish delight is not the most popular flavour with the Turkish people, it’s hazelnut and coconut (hey cool, I have a  Turkish palate!).

auburn food tour

auburn food tour

They make 80-100 tonnes a year here and supply to shops all over Australia and have been supplying to David Jones (where I first discovered it) for 20 years. They produce seven flavours as well as a large range of chocolates all coated in Belgian couverture.

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Lil’ Piggy Buns!

piggy-buns

I had quite a crazed weekend this past one. In fact it was so hectic that I felt that I needed a weekend to get over my weekend. Do you ever have those times when you collapse into bed exhausted at the end of a Sunday night at 9pm?  And whilst I love social engagements, all I wanted to do was get into the kitchen and bake these little buns and socialising like a mad woman meant that these were going to be a Monday afternoon project once the weekend was over.

piggy-buns

And on the Monday morning I awoke feeling slightly run down or more accurately, run over.  My legs ached from wearing heels all weekend – I used to be able to run miles in the things! I also awoke very parched in my throat. I had in fact dreamt of drinking a tall glass of water just before I woke-and that glass  of water was delivered, randomly, by Don Draper from Mad Men. Make of that dream what you will. I wondered how on earth people handled other, even more ferociously busy weekends. We hadn’t gone to bed at 3am like I had done so in the past and there wasn’t that much alcohol involved for me.  And when the phone rang, I groaned and it was hard for me to answer “Good morning” when all I felt like saying was “Good moaning”.

piggy-buns

Good Moaning to you piggy…

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Moose General Store & Cafe, Redfern

moose general store

moose general store

It has been at least 20 years since I was handed a Golden Book to read – I might even venture to say over 30 years since that has happened. But at Moose Cafe in Redfern, a Golden Book titled Prayers for Children no less, is what I am handed when they offer me the menu. I’m meeting M this afternoon for lunch. Outside Moose Cafe is on a quiet-ish side street but this doesn’t stop it from being constantly patronised with customers (mostly locals).

moose general store

Owner Charbel is an former colleague of M’s. He is in fact an Information Architect who currently works three days in that end of the world and the rest in the warmer and fuzzier world of home made mueslis and jams. Did I mention the jams? No? Well on the wall there is a huge wall of them, all very nicely packaged indeed. There are two prices: “sober” $8.50 and “drunk” $9.50 and when you see the flavours you’ll understand why. They’re very grown up jams.

moose general store

There are fancy schmancy flavours like rhubarb & mulled wine; strawberry & Earl Grey;  blackberry & sparkling shiraz and the most popular flavour gin & tonic marmalade (but more on that later ;) ). They also come for the coffee, a brand called The Golden Cobra which is a coffee brand with a sense of humour. The Golden Cobra’s decaf blend is called the “Timothy Dalton” blend aka the slightly “lame James Bond”.

moose general store

There are also a display of granolas including their best selling Belgian chocolate granola. Eat in prices start low at $4.50 with a gluten free banana bread (there are a few gluten free baked choices here) and the prices hover around the $10-$14 mark. Housed in a former butcher’s shop there are still remnants of the earlier institution, most notably the enormous cool room and the painted over meat hook rails. Service is friendly and sweet and without a trace of attitude and the excellent coffee is delivered by the barista with a big smile.

moose general store

Flat White

moose general store

Infinity Sourdough Toast with jams clockwise from top: rhubarb and mulled wine, blackberry and sparkling shiraz, butter, strawberry and Earl Grey and gin and tonic marmalade

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Nuances, Montreal Casino, Canada

nuances, montreal, canada

A casino is not really the kind of place I expect to find a really lovely high end restaurant. Particularly when the path to said restaurant is littered by poker machines and similar decor. And to be honest, casinos don’t hold much lure for me apart from reliving some sort of Oceans Eleven fantasy of glamour.

nuances, montreal, canada

So we were a little surprised when we saw the dining room at Nuances at the Montreal Casino particularly after seeing the blinking assault of pokie machines on the way to the restaurant. It had huge windows, thick drapes, leather banquettes and cream all around with green accents. It was very elegant and nothing like what I thought it would look like. Interestingly, as all four casinos in Quebec are state owned this means that they show daylight and night-time outside unlike others that avoid doing this so people pass the time gambling. You also cannot drink and gamble at the same time and there are also no taxes on wins.

I liked the sound of the “Menu for the senses” which is five courses that are composed based on the chef’s intuition. We alternate this with the five course tasting menu. We’re very impressed by the depth of knowledge of the staff and how they can answer any question that we ask them and then some. They also match the courses with some excellent wines.

nuances, montreal, canada

We start with the bread bowl which is generously portioned with three types of bread: flaxseed, Egyptian wheat and French baguette which are all lovely and fresh. But with five courses we only sample a little of each. We need stomach space!

nuances, montreal, canada

Scallop Amuse Bouche

We’re used to seeing those fat Canadian scallops and so we were a little surprised when this scallop came out as it was about half the size in thickness. But like Australia, Canada is a very large country and the fatter scallops are from the Pacific and these are more local. It is served with tomatoes, olive oil and basil. Interestingly, whilst olive oil is omnipresent in Australia, it isn’t so much here as they do not produce it locally.

nuances, montreal, canada

Tomato, gazpacho emulsion, mozarella, Alaskan crab, spicy oil with chorizo from Charlevoix

This was an interesting dish as the gazpacho was more jellied than liquid. We were supposed to dip the other ingredients into the small cup although this was not practical to do particularly with the Alaskan crab. It’s also a little odd to dip buffalo mozzarella and tomato into a tiny espresso cup. However the flavours were strong and clear and the gazpacho was deliciously spicy.

nuances, montreal, canada

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Win a $150 Gourmet Meat Hamper from Brookvale Meat Supply!

I have always said that there is no better gift than good food. I mean you can buy me jewellery but I have very specific taste or you can buy me perfume but I may not like the scent but give me good quality food and I will love it! So I was very excited when Brookvale Meat Supply offered a $150 hamper of gourmet meat for a competition. This is not your standard RSL meat hamper my lovelies ;)

I tried a few of their products including some scrumptious Thai sausages, made with 90% meat which is very high and redolent with lemongrass and other Thai spices; some divine Tasmanian smoked mussels marinated in balsamic vinegar that were soft and tender (not like the chewy kind you can find); tender and juicy wagyu burger patties and delicious veal schnitzels which baked in the oven in 20 minutes to becomes golden and with oozing cheese and ham inside. Then there was the Gold medal winning free range Bok’s bacon which is wood fire smoked and bush honey cured using Cradle Mountain Organic honey as well as the  El Conquistador Spanish Jamon Serrano (ok I’m saving this for a Spring time picnic). Much of the freshly packed meat that I tried was antibiotic and hormone free as well as being free range.

Thanks to the people at Brookvale Meat Supply you can win your very own gourmet hamper! In your hamper you will get the following worth $150:

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