“Hmmm that’s four pairs of shoes for five days away… that sounds about right.” I say out loud, more to myself than anyone else. Mr NQN looks at me. “You know I’m not coming so you’ll have to carry those” he warns. The poor dear can’t come with me so I am flying solo and luggage is the bane of my existence when I travel and this issue with my luggage rears its ugly head when I travel solo. I put a pair of boots away reluctantly and try to carry my bag. It will do.
A few hours later I find myself in Adelaide, for the very first time. The driver takes me to the Crown Plaza Adelaide where I check in. The porter deposits my bags by the reception desk and I am given my key. When I start to reach for my bag (admittedly grizzling about the extra pairs of shoes) a voice shouts out “Madam! Madam!” and rushes over. “You shouldn’t have to do that” he says and takes my bags. I couldn’t agree more 
The room is modern and nicely furnished although there is an odd smell coming from the bathroom. I call reception and they send housekeeping up to spray it with lots of air freshener as there is a bit of a drainage problem in some of the rooms.
I’m running late (of course, I got lost) to meet with Mark Gleeson, a former chef and restaurant owner who now owns a stall at the Adelaide Central Markets and conduct’s chef’s tours of the markets. Formerly from Sydney he has lived in Adelaide for the past 20 years. The Adelaide Central Markets themselves have run for 140 years and the grounds are actually owned by the people of Adelaide with the caretakers being the council. It is also the most visited destination in South Australia and sees 1 million people through its doors a month. There are 80 stalls in total.
We start off with the camera loving and flirtatious barista at Zedz where they have a new menu every day. They source ingredients from around the market and design the menu according to what is best on the day.
What I didn’t realise was that there was such a large Asian population in Adelaide. Of course this may be because the Adelaide Central Markets are alongside Chinatown too but there is also a large student population of 40,000 students. There is a Korean/Japanese stall run by Sun Mi who is an ex Olympic volleyball champion. And why is the Taxi Driver’s Bibimbap named that? Because it is easy for them to eat it in the taxi! 
We walk past the Seven Hills deli-Seven Hills is an area in the Clare Valley. It started off as a Polish deli but now has food from all over Europe including a tongue wurst and capsicum pariser as well as quark cheese and kefir.
Mark Gleeson
Mark picks up a tomato from the Green Side stand. The owner is also a grower and his fruit and vegetable look real-not those identical specimens you see at the supermarket but what you might find at a farmer’s market.
We stop by two cheese shops-one of them is called Say Cheese which features more accessible cheeses where The Smelly Cheese shop features more expensive imported cheeses, many from France. Lulu who works there offers Mark and I a sample of an English cloth bound cheddar.
Soumaintrain
We then spy a new cheese called the Soumaintrain which comes from the same makers of Epoisses and we try a sample of this too. At first it is a mild flavour but then quickly develops on the palate to become a full bodied concoction with a strong pungency and creaminess.
Kangaroo Island eggs
Kangaroo island is about three hours away from Adelaide and their eggs are popular as there are no foxes on the island so that the chickens can truly run free.
We then stop by Marino’s which has been here for 35-40 years and brings the best of Italian food to the customers. There is Tony and his son who is the third generation of the family working there. They make 1,200 prosciuttos a week and these sell all over Australia in stores like Norton Street Grocer, Woolworths and IGA.
The Grind stall where they sell a lot of fair trade coffees
Feast stall’s offerings
Greenslade and Saskia Beer chickens
There is also the Feast stall that sells all sorts of goodies from a Dorper lamb which is a South African breed of lamb that likes a lot of the native grasses including saltbush. They’re also said to sell the best chickens of all-the Greenslade chickens and Saskia Beer chickens (Saskia being the daughter of Maggie Beer).
House of Organics
The House of Organics sells fruit and vegetables using a three colour coding system. Blue means minimum spraying, green means organic and red means the traditional way of growing using sprays.
The mushroom shop with fresh truffles
Mmm truffles!
We spy some truffles at the Mushroom Shop as well as some wild French mushrooms including chanterelles, mousseron, trompet and pied de moutton at $150 a kilo! There are two types of truffles to choose from, a Tasmanian winter truffle ($45 for 15 grams) and a French Summer truffle ($15 for 15grams).
We stop by Mark’s stand where I spy some very cute, plump apple pies made by a lady in Lenswood which is an apple growing area in South Australia.
Lucia’s is an institution here. In 1957 Lucia arrived in Australia as a post war migrant where she started the business. The menu hasn’t changed for 50 years and it is a place where people gather and meet and form clubs like the “spaghetti club”. It is now run by two of her daughters and encompasses three businesses within the markets including a shop next door (where I sneakily buy some sugar flowers for cupcakes 
).
I stop by the Mettwurst shop where I make some purchases. Mettwurst is a strong, smokey, aromatic German sausage usually made from pork and is slightly different to salami. I buy some Bum Burners from chilli loving Mr NQN (and I know he’ll get a kick from the name ) as well as some delicious garlic mettwurst (although I didn’t buy that jumbo one!).
The Russian Piroshski stall
Piroshki $3
I absolutely love Russian food so I try this piroshski for the princely sum of $3.00. It’s fantastic-freshly fried and filled with a flavoursome mince and the outside is a soft, chewy deep fried dough. If only I had the stomach space to try some of their many variations including a burger piroshski!
The dough bread stand
The Olive Tree
Exotic fruit and vegetables galore including this unusual fruit
Buddha’s hands and vanilla persimmon
As well as that smelly Durian!
I wonder if anyone has counted how many sausages there are hanging up here?
Seven Brothers fruit and vegetables where they are very friendly!
All of this food is making me hungry so I’m glad when we go somewhere for lunch.We stop by Fresh which is a little eatery serving Vietnamese food.
Young coconut juice $3.50
The sweet young coconut juice is tasty and refreshingly good. There is a touch of a freezer taste to it so I’m assuming that it is from frozen.
Broken rice $9
My broken rice (which is less “broken” than I’ve had it otherwise and resembles regular rice) comes with a juicy, flavoursome pork chop which I adore. I thought that it might be tough due to the thickness but it is not. It also comes with a fried egg, some tangy cabbage pickle, a bowl of nuoc cham and a slice of tomato and cucumber.
Large beef noodle soup $8
For dessert, we stop by Bread top (which is new to Adelaide’s shores) and try some Hokkaido milk ice cream which is rich and as Mark describes “Cowy”!
So tell me Dear Reader, when you visit a new city, do you visit the food or shopping markets?
NQN travelled to and explored Adelaide as a guest of Tourism South Australia
Adelaide Central Markets
Prices for tours are $55 per person
Gouger Street, Adelaide, SA 5000
0402 165 800
http://centralmarkettour.com.au/
If you enjoyed this post, why not share it with your friends?
What is NQN up to now? 
NQN on Facebook
RSS
58 Comments | Add your own
My old stomping ground!!!! I love the Market and last summer when I was home for the first time in 7 years, it was one of the first places I visited. I *always* visit food markets first….
the Adelaide Markets are very familiar to me. It’s a Friday night tradition to eat (after grocery shopping) at China Town Cafe. So delicious. Of course I only get to do this every once in a while when I am visiting my parents who live in Adelaide. I’m a Melbournian!
Mmmmmmm, smelly cheez – yum! I’ve never been to SA.
That’s the whole reason for traveling isn’t it? To check out the foody markets? Oh, must be just my holidays
These sound, (and look) gorgeous haven’t been to Adelaide, but that would certainly be a reason to.
I love going to the Adelaide Central Market. It’s truly shameful that Sydney doesn’t have one. Whenever we travel, I love going to supermarkets. I love seeing what people buy and the fantastic things on offer. I can spend hours just strolling the aisles…
The Central Adelaide Markets are fantastic! I could spend all day there soaking up the atmosphere
I HAVE VISITED ONCE AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE STALLS HAVE NOT CHANGED MUCH. IT WAS VERY ENJOYABLE AND THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLES ARE VERY GOOD. I WENT ON A FRIDAY NIGHT AND IT WAS BUZZING.
As usual, you have made my mouth water. I’ve got a German heritage so the food and sights in and around Adelaide appeal to me. I also love the name of the Bum Burner. How Aussie!
As for Piroshki, I love them too … it’s been ages since I’ve eaten one.
I love visiting Adelaide and the markets are always the first stop. In the same general area there is an Asian Food Court (I think called ‘International Food Court’ but all different areas of Asia)… I have never seen another food court that sells wine and beer before. No atmosphere whatsoever, but fun.
Thanks for this! I grew up in Adelaide and lived there till 2002 and I did most of my food shopping at the Central Markets. If it’s still there, you missed the stall that only sells kangaroo meat though
I’m now in Brisbane and while there are a few farmers’ markets around, including a weekly one in the city centre, there’s nothing of this scale or permanency here. It shocked me when I found out; I thought every city would have a “Central Markets”.
Do we have anything close to this in Sydney?
If so, I need to go!
What a great market! Yum, Piroshki. I do try to visit food markets or even supermarkets when in a new city. It is just so much fun! Especially in Europe, I would always search out the local markets and start my sightseeing there
Heidi xo
The Adelaide Central Market is a bit of treasure in Adelaide and is right in the centre of the city.
Many Adelaide families have personal traditions around the market that they have had for years – like a Friday night or Saturday morning shopping expedition with the family!
We love it very much!
I’m soo proud to say that the Central Market is my local market. It truly is the most incredible place, whether its for a quick bite to eat at lunchtime, a stop off on the way home from work on a Friday nite or a leisurely Saturday morning shopping expedition. One of the reasons I LOVE living in Adelaide!!
I haven’t been to Adelaide for years but I remember the Adelaide markets well, what foodie could possibly go to Adelaide & not check out this awesome place.
Seems like you have captured “the essence” of the markets, TRUE!
As is a fun place to discover, uncover unique foods and ingredients too!
HIGHLY recommend if coming to visit Adelaide,
Also have cooking demonstrations, cooking classes, and the stall vendors are more than happy to answer any questions including where they have sourced the food from locally and or explain how something is made!
THANKS! Enjoy the post and look forward to my next visit to the markets too!
All I can say today is sorry I missed you when you were here and re today’s post WHOO HOO!
Oh my god I just got BACK from Adelaide and didn’t even know this place existed. Otherwise I would have gone CRAZY in there.
Did you check out Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills? Cutest town ever!!
Absolutely! Food markets and grocery stores are my most-visited destinations when travelling
Also, just this morning I had a strange out-of-the-blue craving for pho. I must’ve been channelling your blog!
I grew up in Adelaide (now live elsewhere) and have many fond memories of family trips to the market. It was a fifty kilometre round trip but somehow it never seemed that far. Thanks Lorraine for the trip down memory lane
I really enjoyed reading about your visit to our Central Market. I was just there a few hours ago and boy, it was buzzing especially as it’s a Friday and also school holidays. I saw Callum there from Masterchef and bought some of his macarons. That was exciting!
You guys have such incredible marketplaces in Australia. Having only visited one in Melbourne, I was in awe just by that. The selections of the fresh produce and the prepared gourmet goods were just astounding.
I live in Adelaide and love the market. My office is very close so I swing by for things all the time. The bread shop behind the Smelly Cheese shop is fabulous too. You must come back to try the Asian eateries on Gouger Street – so much to choose from. And when we travel we go to markets – recent trip to London we went to the Borough Market. Have done markets in Vietnam and Thailand etc. Farmers Markets are also terrific – with the ones at Wayville and Willunga being outstanding. Come back to SA soon!!
As I live in Adelaide this is where I do my weekly shop. Next time you come be sure to check out Jagger Fine Foods which stocks gourmet and hard to find traditional ingredients from all over the world as well as their own marinated SA olives and fabulous dips (including a chocolate one!). I don’t know what I’d do without my weekly fix of this place.
I grew up in a family that did a lot of traveling. Whenever we arrived in a new city, we were never squeamish about going to street stalls or public markets to sample new things. Personally, I think it’s the best way to “meet” a city before getting into the heart of it.
(And may I just say that I am so smitten by those fruit displays! I haven’t seen Buddha’s-finger citrons in years!)
I love visiting the markets in new cities. Your trip sounds lovely! (and beautiful photos as usual!
)
oh yummmm the piroshki looks great (i think they’re traditionally russian, not polish, but i’m not sure)
xo
I had to laugh out loud about the shoes. I always feel under prepared if I have less pairs of shoes packed than number of days away….
I love visiting markets in new cities. It’s a great way to get the vibe of a wide cross section of locals. There is also an element of familiarity which makes it not so threatening if you are in a place where you can’t speak the language.
BTW – have a GREAT long weekend.
SSG xxx
I always take an extra bag when I travel just for my foodie finds! If I had to choose between taking shoes or food, I would definatley choose food!
One of the best Markets I’ve ever been too. Had a wonderful day there with my mum & sister on a holiday picking up yummies to be eaten for a picnic lunch in the Clare Valley – fantastic!
ooo It’s been so many years since I was last in Adelaide, glad to see that the Mettwurst shop is still there!
I always choose to go to the food mkts, if honey allows though…coz I tend to spend a looonng there
Wow, fantastic photos! The strange vegetable behind the star fruit label is jicama otherwise known as yam bean which is fantastic in rojak! It has the texture and sweetness of an apple but not the acidity and can be used instead of water chestnuts in stirfrys.
Wow, how wonderful … I’m really hungry now :-p
I’ve only been to Adelaide once, but I would move there permanently for the market!! I went there everyday it was open during out stay. I think Vic Market could learn something from the set up at the Central Market.
When i visit a new city i ABSOLUTELY seek out all the food markets
one of my all time favourites has got to be La Bouqueria in Barcelona! Anyway, I haven’t been to Adelaide either (shame on me) but will definitely hit up these markets when I do! (ps DURIAN YUMMMMM)
I always go to food markets, just love it. It is so different to a supermarket (even though I like supermarkets abroad as well) and it’s lovely to see lots of unusual things.
Oh, forgot to recommend London’s great food market, Borough Market. A must for food lovers visiting!
I visit both food and shopping places but… what ends up happening is i eat so much food and get so gross and bloated that i end up not wanting to try on any clothes. I hate it that I do that. I wish i understood how to eat in moderation.
*kisses* HH
So many goodies!
I like both but tend to visit shopping markets more as generally you can’t take much food home!
Lorraine, I love the markets there, and am especially fond of those adorable apple pies (and your black nail varnish). There is such a bounty of goods in Australia…I always forget just how big and varied your country is!
wow definitely a good place to shop!
I remember the first time I discovered these markets whilst on holiday in Adelaide. I walked around with a slack-jawed look of bliss on my face – it was as though all my foodie dreams had been realised in one place. Adelaidians, you are so lucky!
Oh I love to see my home city through the eyes of a visitor! It’s a shame you came during winter as it is chaotic and gloriously busy now that the weather is a tad warmer. You showed me a few stalls I’ve not tried even though I’ve lived here for years, and you missed some pearlers as well (flower stalls, kangaroo meat, breads, seafood) but hey, it’s a BIG market and is too hard to get around.
I reckon if I jsut visited markets while on holidays, I’d be a very happy girl. OLIVES
What an interesting market! The Marino family are so cool – I watched them on Food Safari eating a whole table of polenta topped with meat and sauce – literally, it was spread all over the tablecloth and everyone just started at a corner with a spoon and worked their way into the middle! Just fabulous!
I’m travelling to Hahndorf next year for the Doll Show but will definitely make a bee-line for Adelaide Central Markets after your great review Lorraine.
I would ONLY visit food markets if it were up to me whilst on holidays but my family drag me away with a moanful groan….No more mum. haha
I especially got excited with the mention of Kangaroo Island, my dream is to one day travel there and try all the beautiful produce. Where in Sydney can I buy fresh Chanterelles?
Went to Pyrmont Markets this morning and had a great time , didn’t see you there!
Oh what great timing for this post! I’m off to Adelaide to visit my bestie next weekend, and the Central Markets is definitively on my itinerary. Luckily she is a local so can help me navigate the taste sensations, but your review will help me lots too. thanks!
I love the Adelaide market. I look forward to the day when Brisbane has something like this. The James St market in New Farm offers an excellent selection, but it is just one trader. I think Brisbane is ready for a central market like Adelaide or the fabulous Prahan markets in Melbourne.
The Smelly Cheese Shop! Lucia’s! Dough! I am now officially hungry and craving the Central Markets!! The amount I used to spend on goat’s cheese and Maggie Beer quince paste there is quite embarrassing really (and since moving to the UK I’ve since realised how expensive good cheese is in Australian compared to Europe).
And I always make sure I visit a new places foodie haunts where possible (one of my favourite things about traveling is trying new foods)
Briony xx
Lorraine, wish I could have gone with you! I love to visit markets to check out all the new and interesting fare! BTW, that piroshki looked absolutely delicious…
Yes indeed, I try to go to all the food markets, but sometimes the schedule doesn’t permit. So,as a remedy, at the very least I will try to go to the supermarket!
We were recently at the Adelaide central market, it was one of two reasons we went down there at all (the other being the wine regions) We found the olives that we used to buy at Borough markets in London down there and I was SOOOOOO happy
)
Anytime we go anywhere… it is to try the food…..
Bum burners, tee hee
I have mixed feelings about these markets – I LOVED them and had so much delicious food but it’s where I started feeling terrible and coming down with what ultimately turned out to be swine flu. I really shouldn’t have eaten so much of the freshly shaved ham I guess
I always visit the food markets, i am a sucker for it. I <3 Adelaide Central Markets.
I grew up in the city and we went to Adelaide markets regularly as a child and now as an adult. I remember beautiful marble fronted shops. They do not exist now..but what does exist is Atmosphere and great food. But..what time did you go? It looks so uncharacteristically quiet! It is usually buzzing with life and character. Some shops even look closed ? It didn’t quite feel like the market
I was especially interested in this as my best friend emigrated to Australia a couple of years ago and lives in Adelaide. Now I can see a bit of her city but I would rather she was here
Ooh, so excited to head to South Australia now – looks like a haven…….
Small point but just as it is not the Sydney Harbour Bridges or Sky Casinos it is not the Adelaide Central Markets.It is singular as in Market. It is one Market.
One Trackback/Pingback
[...] idea. I had some floral patterned cupcake liners and some sugar blossoms that I bought from the Adelaide Central Markets. I decided to make her some mango and poppyseed cupcakes as I’ve started to see some [...]
Post a Comment