I thought these houses were so cute!
I tend to familiarise myself with a city by shopping in it. At least this is what I tell Mr NQN. I will of course use any excuse to buy things and my main aim while I am here in Quebec is to buy up vast quantities of maple syrup. After all, it’s only when you’re actually in Canada that you appreciate the amount of maple syrup there is on offer and the things that they have devised for it! After familiarising ourselves with the general area of Quebec City with our guide Elyse, Mr NQN and I were dropped off in the centre of Old Quebec city to do a little exploring and discovering on our own.
We start by browsing the numerous little boutique stores that pepper the area. Most of the shops and wares are quite touristy but then again so are most of the people wandering around (including us!). We spy maple body products in a store that stocks anything and everything to do with maple syrup. I’ll be back for you after lunch I say! People are very friendly here in Quebec City and as far as the city area goes, many speak very good English and some even apologise for not speaking more English whereas I was ready to break out my very rusty French.
A cute store window with a bike covered in lollies
A pretty street with an end view of the harbour
As we pass so many restaurants we start to get peckish so we give into curiosity and temptation and take my friend Gina’s advice and go for lunch at Aux Anciens Canadiens (literally “The former Canadians”). It is one of the most famous restaurants here and is known for serving traditional Quebecoise and Canadian cuisine including a lot of game. It is also one of the most striking. Housed in Quebec’s city’s oldest house built between 1675 and 1676, it is a white building with red roof and red accents with small front windows reportedly because their original glass came over from France packed in barrels of molasses!
Gina advised going there for lunch and we check out their sign for a three course lunch with wine or beer for $19.95. When we peruse the dinner menu we see that it was good advice with main dishes for dinner ranging from $32 to $72 which is very expensive for Quebec. We walk in and it’s like a step back in time. A woman in traditional costume greets us and shows us to a table even though we don’t have a booking.
There are two dining rooms and every table but one has fellow tourists seated. There are displays of vintage glasses and plates and the wooden tables are laid with thick blue napkins and placemats. The waiter is very friendly and speaks fluent English and we take a quick look at the menu. For the fixed lunch one can order the soup of the day or a pea soup and then choose a main. Many of the mains are $19.90 (which includes the wine, soup and dessert) but you can also upgrade to larger or more elaborate mains. We choose a couple of good examples of their cuisine and the wine and freshly squeezed orange juice comes out quickly. Laguiole cutlery sits on the table and classical music plays in the background.
Bread and whipped butter
A bread basket follows and it is filled with regular supermarket wholemeal sliced bread and cold garlic bread croutons which we figure are to be used for the soup. They come with whipped butter. I take a quick trip to the ladies room where there is (oddly) a television that isn’t switched on and magazines in a rack.
Split pea soup
The soups come out quickly. I prefer the split pea soup which isn’t bad but I have to be honest, it didn’t wow me.
Tomato and zucchini soup
I was even less wowed by this. In fact I asked to swap this back with Mr NQN as it just tasted like tinned soup to me.
Pheasant legs and beans $19.90
However things turned around rapidly with the pheasant leg which came with a whole potato and absolutely delectable beans sweetened with the meat juices, maple and molasses. I spent much time chasing around these little beans (if you’ve used Laguiole cutlery, you can imagine how difficult it is to pick up tiny beans with their steak knife and fork). The pheasant is soft and slow cooked so that it falls off the bone and it goes well with the beans although the beans are my favourite part of the dish. It’s a huge dish with the two meaty pheasant legs.
St Jean Meat Pie $19.90
We selected the St Jean meat pie instead of the regular meat pie as this one contained caribou, stag deer and wapity which is elk. It comes out minced with diced potatoes and encased in a flakey pastry. It is accompanied by a steamed butternut squash and an unusual fruit compote which has tomato, peach and maple syrup. Mr NQN loves this and the slight gamey flavour and I admit it is very good but I am still obsessing over those beans and he kindly swaps back with me.
“Have you decided on dessert?” the waiter asks us as he is clearing our plates. Ha! Of course! He tells us that there is always maple pie and a sherbert (sorbet) on offer as well as a fruit pie which is strawberry for today so we choose both pies.
Strawberry Pie
I know, it looks a little sad and despondent yes but the pastry crust on this was delicious and the strawberries and cream went well together although we couldn’t possibly finish the generous amount of cream on the plate. Just ignore the presentation 
Maple Pie
The maple pie is unusual and I can’t believe I’m saying this but I try some and tell Mr NQN it’s too sweet for me. It’s similar to a pecan pie filling just without the pecans- you know that syrupy sugary caramelly toffee filling between the pecans.
Teehee-not much of a view from this window!
They offer coffee or tea ($1.75 extra) but we demur and instead do some more sightseeing. Old Quebec city is set on two levels and each level can be accessed either by walking up or down the stairs (down is preferable, trust me) or taking the “furniculaire”. We visit the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac hotel which overlooks the St Lawrence river. We buy some chocolates from the Cupidon chocolate store inside the hotel. I choose a coconut chocolate and an Earl Grey jelly chocolate ($2.30 for both). Costumed ladies glide by and everyone takes photos of them.
Artist’s laneway
Back on the streets of Old Quebec, there is an artist’s lane where artists sell their painting, sketches and drawings. We watch street artists perform-hey you never know as the Cirque du Soleil founders were stilt walkers that were discovered at the Quebec Summer Festival!
I’m transfixed by the spray of water mist in the heat!
In the heat, we refresh ourselves on fresh lemonade and snow taffy which they make fresh for you. They grind up ice to simulate snow and then dispense some liquid maple taffy onto it. You pick it up and wrap it around a paddle pop stick and suck on the liquid taffy while shaping it on the cup of ice that they give you.
We also buy a Maple chunk ice cream which is perhaps too sweet for me ( yes really!). It has maple syrup in the ice cream and then crystallised maple sugar dotted throughout it.
Maple macarons $1.45 each
We also try some maple macarons at Paillard which are delicious! And how user friendly are those macaron prices? I think I am about mapled out though!
Maple, maple and more maple!
Back to my mission at hand today. We were advised to buy our maple syrup here in Quebec City as the province of Quebec produces most of Canada’s maple syrup. We buy six bottles of the golden fragrant syrup from the waterfront Marché du Vieux-Port de Québec markets which does a roaring trade in maple syrup. And I have to say that the maple syrup that we purchased here, even the very touristy looking bottles, were absolutely fabulous and much better than the maple syrup that we buy in Australia. I’m glad I have all my bottles to keep me warm
Some of the produce at the markets is from the Ile D’orleans which is said to grow some of the best fruit in the province. Prices for their fruit are a little higher than the imported or fruit from other areas.
Glowingly yellow zucchini
Duck stand
Why so glum? Oh that’s right, your pincers are bound!
The Marche du Vieux Port markets are busy with people this weekend. Most of the centre section is taken up by ready to eat meals, cheeses, nuts and chocolates.
Prawn cup $4.50
On the right is the game meat, duck, fresh seafood including a huge lobster tank and organic goodies. We buy a cup of tiny prawns with tomato sauce which helps fill our tummies in the heat (we can’t imagine peeling all of these prawns!). The prawns themselves are different from the texture we are used to being softer and spongier and I must admit I prefer tartare sauce or aioli to tomato sauce with my prawns.
Blueberry sausages!
We can’t reist joining the long queue for the sausages at So Cho which is where many are getting their lunch or afternoon snack. They have an amazing range of sausages including seasonal ones using berries including blueberry and raspberry sausages in vivid hues. We choose a pork, apple and cinnamon sausage which comes with choucroutes (like sauerkraut). It’s strong in cinnamon which is unusual but actually work with the sweet pork and apple and we eat it eagerly.
Mini ice cream cones with three types of maple syrup including a creamed version-for the sweet toothed!
Later on another day after an afternoon’s rest we find ourselves searching for somewhere quick to have dinner. We wait until later to venture out and the crowds keep everything vibrant and exciting. One thing I really enjoyed was wandering around and being part of the crowd here in Quebec during the Summer festival. People are incredibly friendly and easygoing here and there’s no attitude and everything feels very safe.
We stop by Casse Crepe Breton to try Breton style crepes which are slightly different from other crepes. Breton crepes which are made using buckwheat, are thinner and drier and almost roti or chapati bread like whereas other crepes are eggier and probably the kind we are most used to having.
Run by students there is a large crepe station in the centre of the room where you can watch them hypnotically make the crepe using a small wooden squeegee type of tool. People are instructed to wait by the door for a table and they do dutifully. It’s hot in here though and our legs stick to the vinyl booths.
Roast Beef, onion, mushroom and Swiss cheese crepe with side salad $10
I prefer my roast beef crepe with onion, mushrooms and Swiss cheese. Although it doesn’t look particularly filled, it’s actually filled just enough, perhaps just needing some more around the edges.
Ham, egg, mozzarella and mushroom crepe with side salad $9
I try some of Mr NQN’s crepe and we agree to swap back. Eggs always make me think of breakfast so whilst this is nice, I’m in a dinner kind of mood.
Chestnut crepe with ice cream $5.75
Holy chestnut! Our eye almost pop out of our heads when we see this massive crepe filled with sweetened chestnut puree and two enormous baseball sized orbs of ice cream. We need to work fast, the heat in here and on the crepe means that the icecream melts quickly which provides us with more motivation to eat this baby quickly. Not that we needed it-this was definitely my favourite crepe!
When we pay we see the handwritten post its in almost every language letting people know that tips are not included in the bill and that 15% tip is the norm. Just in case you forget!
So tell me Dear Reader, do you ever get confused as to how much to tip?
NQN travelled and explored Canada as a guest of Tourism Canada
Aux Ancients Canadiens
34 rue St-Louis
Quebec City, QC G1R 4P3, Canada
(418) 692-1627
Les Delices de L’erable
1044 St -Jean, Quebec City, Canada
Marché du Vieux-Port de Québec
160 Quai St-André
Quebec City, QC G1K 3Y2, Canada
(418) 692-2517
Casse Crepe Breton
1136 rue St-Jean
Quebec City, QC G1R 1S4, Canada
(418) 692-0438
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57 Comments | Add your own
Oh how fun, Lorraine! I’ve ALWAYS wanted to try snow taffy since I first read about it as a little girl in the Little House on the Prairie books.
I’ve never been to canada, but I’m intrigued by the pheasant and maple pie (pecan pie is one of my favorites!) I didn’t know they ate so much game!
My belly hurts just reading this story!! How do you managed to try everything and then have dessert!! I loved the look of the Maple Syrup taffy and your peasant and beans, yum! In high school I did an project on Quebec for French class and I always wanted to visit, with all you cute photos of charming houses and laneways it is back on my travel list. Loved the story!
oh gee, I meant I love the look of the maple syrup macaroon, I thought the maple syrup taffy was a little gross, I can’t imagine eating pure maple syrup
Whipped butter? That sounds amazing. *drools*
I’ve never had taffy. What’s it like?
Too many things to crave in this post, Lorraine!
The snow taffy, the crepes, the buildings, the market, the prawn cup…
How did you drag yourselves home>
SSG xxx
This makes me so happy
When I was working in Quebec City this summer, I lived just down the street from the Marché Du Vieux Port!
Ile d’Orleans strawberries really are better, I hope you tried some!
Those houses are so cute! Snow taffy and blueberry sausages – cool! So much maple – my heaven! SO many places to see in the world, too little time *sigh* I do get confused with tipping, but I have a general idea of what is acceptable and just run with that. or run out of the restaurant if I leave too little & never return! hehe.
Heidi xo
Maple overload!
It looks like great fun!
A wonderful post, as always! What’s not to love about maple syrup?? As regards tipping; having worked in the hospitality industry for many years, I believe in over-tipping, if the service warrants it. A few extra dollars can mean so little to the diner, but the buzz from receiving a decent tip for a job well done can make the day of your waiter or waitress.
That maple pie has my mouth watering! So much drool-worthy food in one post.
I only tip if it’s been really good. Average service and average food = no tip.
Great reportage and photos!
Happy Travels!
ciao
Alessandra
Canada (or Canaidia as it is affectionately known in our house!) is on the top of our list to visit. I adore maple syrup and often have to hide it from the kids as they have no appreciation of how expensive it is here and tip it liberally over anything – so I just can’t imagine being “mapled out”!!
What a great adventure(culinary and otherwise) you and your husband had in Old Quebec! It looks like a charming, quaint place. I’d love to try some of their maple:)
This is one city I really can’t wait to explore (one day); the buildings are amazing but I’m a bit surprised by the food…, don’t know what I expected but…, thought it’d be a touch more French
The taffy is something I’ve always wanted to try, and the maple syrup, and, and…
Yup! Great post, thanks Lorraine.
I love maple, Lorraine. I should share my favorite maple-pecan pie recipe with you… it is just too good and so very North American! All kidding aside… you definitely saw the best of the city… the chestnut crepes really caught my eye!
Blueberry sausages, pheasant & beans, I would have been in heaven!
Maple syrups is sooooo sweet
Being Canadian, I hate to say it… But I haven’t had maple syrup in almost 5 years or more. It’s too sweet for me. I’m more into savoury flavours myself.
just one question left: did you have poutine whilst in Québec?
Oh oh oh!!! That maple sugar taffy drizzle on ice is exactly out of Laura Ingalls Wilder’s books, which I reread so many times as a kid that they’re imprinted on my heart. Oh, what I wouldn’t give to have been there with you for that!!
I’ve never been out of Australia before, so it’s interesting seeing the culture of other countries. They love their maple syrup!! The maple syrup tart looks fantastic, I need to find a recipe for that one.
This is like a mini FoodGawker Lorraine… WOW!! Love that you are in Quebec and the swell time you’ve had. ♥ the attention to detail, including the TV in the washroom…teehee! Just what I love about your posts! Have a great stay!
oh my – yes I am now craving maple syrup!!!
Aaah… home sweet home! Thank you so much Lorraine for this fabulous post that brought back so good memories… I’ve been in Australia for over 7 years and love it to bits, but there’s always a small part of me that misses the abundance of maple syrup, the lanes of Old Quebec, the summer celebrations, etc.
I will be there for Christmas and can certainly recommend a visit at that time of the year too… you will discover a whole different place!
I’ve been to that patisserie! They have the best croissant and escargot! Mr Kitty and I ate breakfast there a few times when we were in Quebec. It’s such a beautiful town – I’d love to go back!
We usually tip – about 10% if the service is good in Australia. But it’s now de rigueur to tip 17.5% in the US which makes things really quite expensive… And it’s not really optional which I hate. If it’s an included cost, include it. Tips are optional and rewards for good service!
Quebec sounds wonderful! I really want to go there one day.
Just once, I’d like to be your shadow during one of your food explorations.
Btw, I also find maple too sweet for me, but I’d pounce on that maple pie, as well as the strawberry pie, without flinching.
So much maple syrup! It sounds like a fun trip.
I’ll have one of those Chestnut crepes please, yum!
Six bottles of Maple syrup, did you get funny looks from Customs coming back into the country lol
Tipping is an appreciation of the standard of food and service. I usually tip 10% but sometimes leave more if I have been really impressed. I’m glad that it’s optional in Australia, hate to leave a tip if either food or service were bad.
I bought some blueberry and maple syrup this week and stashed it in the pantry, but you have inspired me to make some crepes with it this weekend! Yumm…
Ahhhh I haven’t been to Canada but would love to! Canadian friends of mine have brought me maple syrup many times and it’s just delish. Pity to hear about that maple pie though!
It sounds like the banoffee pie we have here (which I made recently too!) but at least there are bananas and cream to offset the sweetness in that.
I love how Quebec has retained its old-fashioned charm.
Sounds like you had a great time!The crepes looked amazing, and snow taffy was something completely new to me.
Well, most Aussies find it hard to tip, as it’s something we’re not used to here. (Having said that I DO tip for exceptional service in Oz, but it has to be pretty good).
I’ve always tried to tip in countries where low wages mean they depend on tips.
There is no hard or fast rule, but in poor economies I do tend to tip more.
Basically, I always try to tip as much as I can afford and in line with tips in that country.
Having said that I am broke, and won’t be travelling for a while, but when I do, I like to reward good service.
What a picturesque place! Good on you for stocking up on maple syrup – we’ve run out and need to track down some more…might take a trip to Two Providores in Marrickville..
Oh what a delicious trip to Quebec! All that maple syrup, did you come away with a new hole in your tooth?
i wish we had the opportunity to visit quebec when we were in montreal last year. just didn’t have enough time!
i love maple products- we got some maple tea that was wonderful. those maple macarons look fantastic. i agree the price is amazing!
and yes, sometimes i get confused about how much to tip when we’re abroad.
Oh my goodness, so much gorgeous eye candy in this post! The snow taffy sounds like a lot of fun to eat and the crepes look fantastic! (Love the sound of the chesnut one!)
Your post reminds me of my visit to Montreal many years ago. The Vieux Montreal area is so pretty!
Food is so fresh and abundant. It was lobster season, and we were eating like there was no tomorrow. Almost missed the train back to NY.
The Quebecois know how to eat and party!
All those strawberries and the strawberry pie look divine. Quebec looks like a lovely city to wander around.
As a little girl in Ontario I made my own snow taffy with syrup and a popsicle stick, but only on fresh soft snow, of course! Your trip looks like it was amazing!
Lorraine, the maple syrup on a paddle pop stick sounds like a dream, I can imagine walking around the city slowly devouring that lol
Amazing window and shop fronts throughout, thanks for sharing the great pics x
Oh Lorraine, I’m jealous you got to go here at this time of year! It was cold and wet for us!
I think you will single-handedly be boosting tourism for Canada, Lorraine! I had no real interest in visiting before you started blogging your trip & now i’m desperate to get there & try some of this fabulous food!
wow.. how beautiful it is out there in Quebec. You must have had a grand time… and mapled-out! Nice pics..thanks for sharing.
A Canadian friend would come down to Australia on work projects, Lorraine, for several months.
He woul always bring me a gallon tin of his home made No.1 Grade A Dark Amber Maple Syrup, a taste senstaion like no other.
The onbly maple syrup I can seem to buy in Australia is a homogenised single brand – so I nevy your trip
Wow. That’s a true maple adventure. I remember a Canadian colleague bringing home some maple candy and as much as I thought I’d love it – yep, too sweet. I guess I like things with a hint of maple. The maple macarons looked gorgeous and the taffy reminds me of the water taffy sold at Japanese summer festivals. Often there is a sour apricot or ume plum in the centre to offset the sweet taffy
Quebec looks like a lovely city. I love places that are easy and interesting to walk around in. Those markets look lovely too, especially those punnets of strawberries!
too sweet? TOO SWEET? get outta town!
meanwhile, have you ever wondered why they’re not called canadans? it’s not canadia, after all.
Wow! Those pictures really capture how quaint and lovely the place is! I want to try everything maple now!!!
Awww Old Quebec City looks like a gem of a place! I’d love to visit here. I’m so glad that tipping is not compulsory here… But I will tip when it’s totally worth it.
What a great post. I’ve lived in Canada, but sadly never got to Quebec. Would love to go. And you got to try so many amazing things- I loved the look of maple macarons! And that maple taffy looks incredible too. And blueberry sausages- intriguing.
That snow taffy is crazy! It looks like iced caramel on a stick!
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