Monthly Archives: November, 2010

Vanilla Cheesecake & Caramel Pudding: Reinventions of Sara Lee & Yogo

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

I take a look at my schedule for the day when I wake up.

7:30am: wakeup, cup of tea

8:00-9:30am: get ready

10am Desserts at Tomislav

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

Please understand that not all of my days start with dessert at 10am (although I do wonder why more don’t). And also I don’t take 1.5 hours to get ready (it takes me 35 minutes) but I do potter about and do other things like clean up after Mr NQN’s hurricane in the morning (today I found an apple and a sock on the rug). And what am I doing today? I am getting a dessert Masterclass with chef Tomislav Martinovic. He is going to show me how to make two of his signature desserts and he will explain the inspiration behind them.

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

Chef Tomislav Martinovic

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

Siphon canister refills

“Whenever I think of cheesecake, I think of the Sara Lee French vanilla cheesecake” Tomislav says when he starts putting together the cheesecake. Of course having worked for Heston Blumenthal and having a kitchen full of boy’s toys and gadgets it’s not exactly going to be the same cheesecake. It starts off the usual way, with cream cheese but this cream cheese is beaten for 10 minutes to become totally smooth. He adds the vanilla to the cream cheese and mixes it together giving it a thickened cream consistency. Easy!

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

The nitrogen cartridge

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

On the left a blob using only one catridge and on the right using two nitrogen cartidges

Now comes the fun bit. He takes out his siphon canister (as you do) and loads one nitrogen cartridge and shakes it. He dispenses a small blob and it’s still to soft so he inserts another and shakes it and presto, the correct light as air whipped cream consistency. These siphon canisters are available at most chef’s specialty stores and retail for about $140 and a pack of 10 nitrogen cartidges costs $5.50.

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

The base is a delectable nutty biscuit made nuttier by using beurre noissette (browned butter) and about an equal ratio of melted butter to digestive biscuit. Sorry to deliver the fattening news :P

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

“It’s all about what housewives use” Tomislav says and that is why they use McVitie’s digestives.  He explains that the technique and making something that is not usually possible to make at home is what keeps diners coming. Another trick to his dessert is using salt in all of them to balance the sweetness and that his desserts are not excessively sweet. He shows me how to plate up the cheesecake. The base is a cut out round of the butter and biscuit crumbs and any extra are spooned under the rhubarb compote which is cooked but still retains a bite to it.

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

He pops in some cream cheese jelly cubes and it’s ready. I don’t need much prompting to try this dessert. It was my favourite dessert here and I’m a huge fan of light as air cheesecakes. “Can I finish it all?” I ask eagerly scooping up spoonful after spoonful.

tomislav restaurant darlinghurstl

Vanilla Cheesecake

Recipe by Tomslav Martinovic

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Meet My Suburb: Haberfield & Win 1 of 4 Boxes of Colefax Chocolates!

haberfield food tour

I’m no Maeve O’Meara, that’s a fact. She is a legend and in a league of her own really and I am only but one hungry stomach. However one thing that I really love is being a tourist in my own city. There are so many areas that I haven’t yet discovered or only scratched the surface of. And I always find the best way to get to know an area or a culture is through the food that they eat. When Miss Haberfield emailed me a few weeks back and suggested that I do a food tour of Haberfield, I jumped at the chance. For years ago when I visited Colefax chocolates and talked to the owner’s father Reg, he would tell me that this was how the Italians shopped. They might eat out in nearby Leichhardt but when it came to shopping and eating at home, Haberfield was it.

One great thing about doing your own shopping and eating tour here in Haberfield is that everything is in within  few minutes walk of each other as most of the shops are concentrated on busy Ramsay Street. The key if you come on a weekend day is to start early and of course you get a sense of the atmosphere but if you’re looking for a low key shop, ideally a week day is best.

Espresso Galleria

haberfield food tour

We start off at Espresso Galleria for much needed caffeine. In the predominantly Italian suburb of Haberfield, a Greek man serving coffee would certainly raise some ruffles but his short blacks and cappucinos have won over locals. Mr NQN has a flat white and I start with a chai which are both excellent. This is a tiny space but furiously busy and “Manny” that is Emanuel Patniotis literally makes coffees non stop.

haberfield food tour

Chai Latte $3.40

There are small pastries and sandwiches to go with coffees but there’s not much more on the menu as it’s clearly all about the coffee. I’m meeting friendly local Miss Haberfield here who was kind enough to give me the lowdown on all of these places. Isn’t it lovely to have a local willing to share their knowledge and insider tips?

haberfield food tour

Flat White $3.40

haberfield food tour

Paesanella

haberfield food tour

haberfield food tour

The mother lode for cheese, keen NQN readers may have caught up with my adventures in their factory in Marrickville on my previous tour. The Marrickville factory, despite all commercial concerns, is closed on Saturday but this retail store in Haberfield picks up when the factory closes and then some. The range here is quite different and I find myself staring wide eyed and slack jawed at the display.

haberfield food tour

Miss Haberfield sees what I am eyeing. “It’s layers of gorgonzola and mascarpone and it is divine” she says. She is talking about the Mascarpone Reale with the layers of gorgonzola and mascarpone and topped with walnuts. There is also the figaro with dried figs instead of the walnuts which when cut, resembles a slice of cake. There is also Ubriaco cheese which means “drunken” in Italian where the cheese is soaked in wine and covered in grape must and matured. Dot who works there is the ex head chef of Longrain and happily chats about the produce.

haberfield food tour

For good measure we get a slice of the baked ricotta ($17.99/kg) and the Rollatte Ripiene which is a roll of mozzarella, proscuitto, spinach and olives ($34.99/kg). For the road we get an apricot filled with mascarpone blue and a a date filled with mascarpone. Both are sweet, rich and creamy.

haberfield food tour

All I can say is that the Mascarpone Reale and Figaro (both $34.99/kg) are the kind of thing you might want to put on your death row meal request. They are both divine, I think I slightly favour the Figaro as I think a sweet touch goes well with gorgonzola. If you are going to try anything from here, make it one of these. The baked ricotta is excellent as is the Rollatte Ripiene and Dot was kind enough to slip in some sun dried balsamic tomatoes.

haberfield food tour

David Gojak Butchers

haberfield food tour

A relative new comer to the area, it hasn’t taken long for Slovenian butcher David Gojak (who himself is the son of a Slovenian butcher) to win over hearts. His is a family business with his wife, dad and son working here. There’s the familiar plastic strip curtain but when you look closer you’ll see that this butcher has some tricks up his sleeve. For a start all of his pork and pork products like bacon are all free range and female pigs. And the prices for things like pork belly are $15.99 a kilo which is a good price for free range pork.

haberfield food tour

David and his wife Mateja

haberfield food tour

haberfield food tour

And then there’s the chevapi skinless fat beef sausages which are divine and packed full of flavour. At one end he has a heated section where he doles out already roasted pork (with a lustfully good looking crackling) and gives tasting of sausages like his chorizo, chicken & rocket or continental (a gorgeous garlicky number). Above the counter are the smoked goods which are smoked using Oregon woodchips and include chabai, cacciatore, loins and belly and mini prosciutto.

haberfield food tour

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Kransekake – A Danish Wedding Cake

kransekake

In my humble opinion, I would guess that for most guests, weddings are all about two things: the speeches and the food (dinner and a show if you will). The reason why I include these two things is because I am thinking about the men folk who don’t really care about a bride’s dress or the designer of her shoes whereas that’s my very first question. They simply want to be fed a nice meal and be entertained by a funny speech. Mr NQN’s brother The Assman was his best man at our wedding and he did a great job.

kransekake

He started off with an anecdote that about the role of a “Best Man” during centuries past. It was such a sweet and funny speech that when we attended a wedding of a couple of guests a few months later we found that the best man there used the same anecdote. Except this best man decided to give his a “racy” tone and suggested that the best men of centuries ago used to help the groom find and knock up a girl and sling her on the back of a horse after some non consensual “hi-jinks” in the forest. It went down like a lead balloon and there were several gasps of shock from the older crowd and he abandoned his speech mid word muttering an apology. Oh dear.

kransekake

So what does this have to do with the Danish wedding cake? Well the Kransekake cake comes in two forms. The traditional wedding cake is a conical shape. But you can also use the same dough to make a horn shaped cake called an overflodighedshorn where the open end of the horn is stuffed with chocolates and other sweets. I bought one last year and presented it to my friend The Second Wife and her fiancee Gravy Beard at their engagement party. It is to the non Danish or non Norwegians quite a sexual looking bacchanalian looking object. I must apologise to the Danes and Norwegians for finding it that way but every other guest at this party had the same reaction raising their eyebrows suggestively and asking where the roman orgy was.

kransekake

I had all but sworn off making wedding cakes. I made one for Mr NQN’s family a few years ago and it was so traumatic that I simply never wanted to do one ever again. But then The Second Wife asked me with the magic words-I could do anything that I wanted for their cake. Anything? Like the Danish wedding cake? I knew that I wanted to make this cake but suppressed any urge to make the horn version lest there be suggestive eyebrow raising or hints to retire to an orgy room as that does not befit a wedding. I didn’t want to be the cake equivalent of that best man’s speech.

eurofest frenchs forest danish horn

The horn version

The cake itself is easy enough to do provided you have the molds. I was lucky enough to be able to borrow the molds from the lovely Faye Cahill, wedding cake decorator extraordinaire. We were talking cakes, as you do, and I explained that I needed to make a wedding cake for a friend and that I wanted to do a  Danish wedding cake but thought that it might be too hard to do without the guides. Faye told me that she had a Danish wedding cake as one of her cakes (one of her cakes, I mean of course she would have multiple cakes) and she would lend me the molds!

kransekake

The cake is basically made up of almond meal, icing sugar and egg whites mixed together and then rolled out into these molds and then baked. The rings are then stacked on top of each other and sandwiched together by royal icing. And there was a recipe on the side of the box which I followed but I found that it wasn’t quite right. It called for the dough to be warmed and dried out and then cooled which I found nearly impossible to roll as it was so dry.

kransekake

On the left, the recipe below. On the right, using the recipe provided on the box

It was also a lot shorter than I wanted-a wedding cake after all is supposed to produce a heightened sense of reality and this was just a let down at a mere 21cms high. So instead I searched on the internet for a few recipes and none of them called for the dough to be cooked and then cooled. I found these recipes much easier to roll. And once I decided on the recipe the cake was pretty much mixed within 10 minutes, prepped within 15 minutes and only required 10 minutes in the oven. The resulting cake is about 30cms tall and tall enough to make an impression but not overshadow the bride-as if!

Let’s double it!” Franck Eggelhoffer says…

But of course you know the inner Franck Eggelhoffer in me wouldn’t stop there. He said “OK zis veddding kak is only sirty centimetres tall… let’s double it!”. Which I thought was a good idea at the time until it came to transporting it.

kransekake

This is how we decided to transport it: in three parts. It would have been too precarious to move otherwise. Unlike other cakes, it has no scaffolding apart from the royal icing and half whispered prayers. And it needed to go to Kurrajong Heights which is 1 hour and 40 minutes away. And besides that, that morning I was getting some eyelashes applied at the skillfull Lash Lady Charlotte in Newtown. Then I was getting my hair done at the fabulous Stevie English salon in a Mad Men/50′s style as there was a group of us attending the wedding outfitted as if we were from this era as it is The Second Wife’s favourite time. I showed my stylist Verity a picture of the style that I wanted and it was done perfectly to brief!

Mad men hair!

We had a large box with a lid where we put the large bottom layer and we strapped that into the back seat belt. The middle and top layers sat in a box on my lap and on my lap lay a large flat stand to give the box as flat a surface as possible.

kransekake

It was being held in an outdoor marquee so we quickly took it out, placed it on the cake table and I “glued” the middle section onto the bottom section. We then checked into our nearby accommodation at The Rustic Spirit but barely had a chance to enjoy it as we had to shower and get changed and high tail it back 40 minutes later to cement on the top layer before the wedding started at 3pm.

kransekake

Hurriedly icing the top layer to the middle and bottom layers ten minutes before the ceremony started…

kransekake

It was a stunningly beautiful wedding, although I always knew it would be. The little poochies Dash and Lucy were involved (and it’s a good thing that Lucy didn’t her little trick when she is excited of peeing and doing a handstand-yes really!).

kransekake

And the kak ahem… the cake? I think they really liked it!

kransekake

I also think that we found the perfect card from a gorgeous shop, Red Letter Day in Matakana, New Zealand. Little did I know when I purchased it in March that I would be making the cake!

So tell me Dear Reader, what is your favourite era and why?

Kransekake – A Danish Wedding Cake

Makes a 70-80 cms tall cake (halve this for more regular and easier to transport option)

  • 1100grams almond meal (ground almonds)
  • 1100grams icing/powdered sugar
  • 1/2 cup flour plus perhaps 1.4 cup more if dough is too sticky plus extra flour for dusting molds and rolling
  • 10 egg whites
  • 4 tablespoons unflavoured oil (like almond oil)

For icing

  • 3 egg whites
  • 6 cups icing sugar
  • 3 teaspoons lemon juice

You will also need: 1 set of Kransekake forms, a large cake board and some white fondant. If you want to paint a gold ring around the fondant then mix up a little vodka with some edible gold dust and brush it on with a small paintbrush.

kransekake

kransekake

1. If you’re using a standard Kitchenaid or Breville mixer, do this in two lots as the mixture is too large to do together-at least while it’s first mixing up. In the large bowl of an electric mixer add the almond meal and flour and sift in the icing sugar. Add 4 of the egg whites into the mix and mix with a paddle on low speed. Add a little of the 5th egg white until you reach a moist but rollable consistency. Cover your hands lightly in flour and if the dough still sticks to them add a little more flour. Cover with cling wrap so that it doesn’t dry out.

kransekake

Kransekake ring molds

kransekake

2. Preheat oven to 200C/400F. Grease each kransekake mold with oil and sift over with flour. Take a small amount of the dough and roll it out and place it in the molds, joining any joins straight away before it dries out. Don’t fill too much as it will expand a little. Cover the dough in the molds with cling wrap so that it doesn’t dry out. Bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until it is a light golden shade. Cool in tin and if any are sticking together then quickly run a knife between them before they cool and harden. Remove from the tin once cooled.

kransekake

The cooked rings

kransekake

Lighter baked ones and darker baked ones-darker baked ones are sturdier!

kransekake

The scallop pattern on the rings

3. Sort rings into graduating shapes. Make royal icing by sifting the icing sugar in a bowl and whisking in the lemon juice and egg whites. Using a piping bag fitted with a small plain tube (I used some made of baking paper-three in total), place some royal icing on the bottom of the largest ring and adhere it to the cake board. Then with the royal icing, draw patterns on the rings as seen above. Sandwich these together with more royal icing which sets like glue (and is great for warm weather-unlike chocolate it doesn’t melt).

kransekake

Piping royal icing onto the base of the ring that will sit on top-to flip upside down

I also put some royal icing on the bottom of the ring that was to sit on top of each ring-this was only necessary as I had to transport it a distance but normally I don’t think it is needed. Traditionally, it is served with Danish flags in it. To cloak the rest of the silver board in fondant, roll out 500grams/1 pound of white fondant on a lightly dusted cornflour/cornstarch surface and follow the instructions here. Use a rectangle of overhead projecter sheet to smooth out the surface and to disguise the join.

kransekake

kransekake

Happy Wedding The Second Wife!

Porteño, Surry Hills

porteno, surry hills

I haven’t queued for a restaurant in the longest time until this last month. I just find that I prefer to wait until the enthusiasm dies down to try a restaurant (and practically speaking, I’m often wearing queue unsuitable shoes). One of the few times I recall queuing was for Bodega, Ben Milgate’s and Elvis Abrahanowicz’s tapas restaurant in Surry Hills so when I heard that they were opening up an Argentinian restaurant on Cleveland Street I was curious. The thing with queuing is that the food has to be good to make up for the sore feet and legs.

The asado grill

porteno, surry hills

Gina, Teena and I are stationed outside Porteño at 11:45 am one Sunday for lunch (update: Porteño no longer do Sunday lunch) and we smell the first enticing aroma of charcoal and grilled meat. Having driven past here on a Tuesday night at around 9pm we witnessed a swarm of people gathered in the courtyard outside waiting for a table and we wanted to avoid a similar fate. Bookings can only be taken for groups of five or more with a maximum of twelve and some have complained that there is an allocation for tables of two which runs out early. At 12 noon the doors swing open and everyone gets a table to sit at in a civilised version of musical chairs.

porteno, surry hills

Porteno is a much bigger number than Bodega and seats 120. There’s an upper floor bar as well as a multi tiered dining space with white washed walls and black wrought iron and alternating areas of shade and light. The Argentinian details carry on through to all aspects even to the South American cigarette ads in the bathrooms. And at the front, the two tattooed rockabilly styled owners and chefs Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz are tending to the giant open hot coal oven whilst other food is created in the kitchen.

porteno, surry hills

Tending to the asado grill

The stars of the show are the roast suckling pig and the roast lamb. We had heard grumbles about these two signature dishes running out and so curious, I ask Ben about how many lambs and pigs they go through a day and he says that it’s always two pigs and two lambs-they simply can’t do fit more on the grill and each beast is cooked for between six and eight hours. Yep even on a Saturday! So put in your order as soon as possible or line up early to avoid disappointment ;)

porteno, surry hills

Elvis Abrahanowicz on left and Ben Milgate on right

Outfitted authentically as an Argentinian restaurant the wait staff are staff are picture perfect and straight from central casting, so much so that I wonder how long it takes them to get ready! It’s Rockabilly meets Argentina, if there were ever such a thing (and we suspect it might have just been started here).

porteno, surry hills

Elvis tends to the food like a surgeon bent over a patient while Ben tends to the parilla grill (another way to grill meat flat over coals) and rings the bell. We watch as Abrahanowicz’s father pairs up with his son and plays the role of asador turning the butterflied spread eagled pigs and lambs with a metal pitchfork on the slightly ritualistic looking coal grill. The Argentinians know about grilling steak and have seven different ways, asado being just one.

porteno, surry hills

Pane di Casa bread and pate $2 per person

The menu is of course meat heavy-there’s no use pretending that Argentinian cuisine is anything but. We start with the pane di casa which are warm, soft white bread rolls served with a pork liver pate which has an smooth spreadable texture with coarse ground meat dotted throughout it.

porteno, surry hills

Empanada de Carne $4 each

I sometimes find empanadas can be dry from the filling or the pastry or a combination thereof. These aren’t dry at all, they’re freshly fried, prettily pleated and slightly blistered from the hot oil but importantly they’re not oily. They are filled with a slightly saucey beef mince mixture and of course a single whole olive.

porteno, surry hills

Morcilla blood sausage$10

I do like blood sausage but find that I can only eat a little bit of it usually. This morcilla aka the Argentinian blood sausage with roasted red peppers and thin garlic slices is an exception. So soft it is spilling out of it’s casing it is dotted with little cubes of fat and has a slightly spicy aftertaste right at the very end. It doesn’t have that metallic taste that some blood sausages do from the iron in the blood. The morcilla and the rest of the meats apart from the pork and lamb are cooked on the parilla grill over hot coals.

porteno, surry hills

Chanchito a la cruz suckling pig $46

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Win A Cupcake Class or A Dozen Cupcakes with Sparkle Cupcakery!

I was recently asked to put together a list of things that are “me”. That was easy, I clearly have obsessions. The top item of course was cupcakes which  I am sure that you would have been able to easily guess. I love baking them myself and I also love eating them. Sparkle Cupcakery in Surry Hills sent me some cupcakes for my Halloween party which my guests loved and shortly afterwards they sent me their Christmas cupcakes. I was so smitten by the eggnog cupcakes that I polished all of six of the mini ones in one afternoon!

Thanks to Sparkle Cupcakery we are giving away two prizes to two lucky NQN readers:

*One winner will win a place in Sparkle’s Christmas cupcakes course. The dates are December 5th, 2010   (10am-12.30pm) of December the 8th, 2010( 6pm – 8.30pm)  worth $99

*Another winner will win one dozen box of Sparkle Christmas cupcakes – worth $51 to be picked up at the store in Surry Hills, Sydney. The Christmas cupcakes come in flavours such as Christmas Spice cupcakes (spice cupcake with brandy butter cream), Chocolate Candy Cane (chocolate and mint cupcake with a crushed candy cane on top), Eggnog cupcakes (my undoing :P ) and Gingerbread men!

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