Monthly Archives: March, 2011

The Norfolk, Redfern

the norfolk, redfern

Sometimes you ring a restaurant and are told “No need to book, just come in”. Then you come in and the place is so busy there is not a single table free for another hour and you wished you had insisted that you had booked. Sometimes, if you are lucky, your Plan B ends up being better than your Plan A. This was luckily one of those cases.

the norfolk, redfern

I was meeting my darling friend The Second Wife and we exited the place of Plan A when we told that there wouldn’t be a table for the rest of the afternoon. So when we were left without a Plan B The Second Wife, in her infinite wisdom suggested The Norfolk. The magic words? “They have awesome soft tacos”. Now I need to admit one thing, I’m not a pub girl – a pug girl perhaps but not a pub girl. My low tolerance towards alcohol means that nursing three glasses of sparkling mineral water while everyone gets progressively happier isn’t my idea of good fun. However that said, beer or wine can be very happily substituted with good food.

the norfolk, redfern

We’re standing at the bar and it is 3:30pm. We’ve only had a lemon tart between the two of us and of course this leads to some crazy ordering.

“Let’s just get each of the tacos!!”

“OMG sliders!”

“Chicken wings! Do you like wings? I looove wings!”

“Ceviche-yum! I looove ceviche. Let’s just get one of everything!”

and in unison

“DEEP FRIED PICKLES!!!”

The menu has bar snacks and mains but even to our hunger crazed eyes the bar snacks look more interesting. The main menu has items like schnitzel, fish and chips, a burger, linguine an smoked trout salad. The bar snacks menu has more Mexican and North American fare. Also, it turns out that just yelling out every item in the menu won’t net you everything so I would suggest ordering in a calm, efficient manner as I realised that we didn’t get the chicken wings…

“This place used to be so dodgy” the Second Wife whispers to me. “We came here drunk with a bottle of wine and we just drank that here and nobody cared” she giggles “this was pre zhushing”. It certainly has changed and we make our way to the sun drenched courtyard where Surry Hills folk frolic and play musical tables and chairs. Zhushing involves Thomas Lim, ex of Tetsuya’s taking control of the pub menu and revamping it.

the norfolk, redfern

Ribena $4

I told you I’m a tee totaller didn’t I? Well I am when I’m driving as I’ve got a 0 alcohol limit and I’m too in love with my license to risk it. So Ribena with sparkling mineral water it is for me :)

the norfolk, redfern

Deep fried pickles with ranch dipping sauce $7.50

Now if anyone said to me that deep fried pickles were a) a good idea or b) so damn good you’d forget your diet instantly then I wouldn’t have believed them. But here they are in all of the deep fried glory, a spongy crispy golden batter on the outside and a pickle inside with a ranch dipping sauce. The Second Wife nails the description after just one bite “It’s like a fillet o’ fish but better.”

the norfolk, redfern

Fish taco $5.50 each

Tacos can be bought for 4 for $20 and come in five different iterations with pork, fish, chicken, beef and vegetarian. Beef is not available currently though so we settle for two of our favourite: the fish tacos. Having had fish tacos both here and overseas some have contained deep fried fish and some haven’t. These marinated grilled whiting pieces have an anchiote chilli paste, lettuce, pico de gallo and of course the lime wedge that all of them come with. It is packed full of flavour.

the norfolk, redfern

Pork taco $5.50

The pork taco has braised pork beck, onions, cabbage, apple, mojo verde sauce and coriander and although nice enough, it didn’t really appeal to me as much as the fish or chicken tacos.

the norfolk, redfern

Chicken taco $5.50

The chicken taco is delicious with grilled juicy chicken thigh, red onion, guacamole, lettuce, chipotle mayo (love this stuff!) and cucumber. It is my favourite along with the fish taco as it had a great balance of flavours.

the norfolk, redfern

Vegetable taco $5.50

The vegetable taco is tasty with fried mushrooms, braised red cabbage, almond pico de gallo and pickled cucumber which all helped to give the taco a robust flavour.

the norfolk, redfern

Salt N Pepa Squid with Jalapeno aioli $14

The salt and pepper squid is a generously portioned dish and the squid is tender and lightly battered but there is an absence of both salt and pepper so we dunk it in the hot sauce and the jalapeno aioli which reminds me of a tartare sauce.

the norfolk, redfern

BBQ’d sweet corn with chipotle mayo, queso cheese and lime $5.50

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Vegemite Spaghetti, Meeting Nigella & Some Book News!

vegemite spaghetti

My friend Gina once told me of a friend of hers, a male college buddy that had invited her and her friends over for dinner. He wasn’t much of a cook and quite poverty stricken as most university students tend to be (she also told us that he would come out to eat with an empty wallet and a fork to spear bits off other people’s plates). As if to spectacularly illustrate both points he served up a single course of plain boiled rice to his dinner guests.

“Do you have any soy sauce or ketchup?” Gina asked him and shaking his head offered them salt to have with their rice. She declined. Little did he know that if he had three ingredients in his cupboard, four if he wanted to stretch it, he could have cooked the girls a lovely meal. Yes, three ingredients. And one of them is Vegemite.

Vegemite for kids-or me!

Yesterday I posted about Nigella Lawson’s Masterclass at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival. During it she cooked a dish originally from Italian cookbook writer Anna Del Conte that would immediately send people’s head whipping around for a double take. Vegemite spaghetti. She assured us that despite its rather kitsch and alarming sound, it was in fact delicious and if I’ve learnt to trust one thing it’s that when she says that it’s delicious, it usually is. I will admit that Vegemite isn’t usually to my taste and every time I say it I feel terribly “Un-Australian” (whatever that may mean).

vegemite spaghetti

Since it had three ingredients plus parmesan cheese it was easy for me to try it. I used the Barilla wholemeal spaghetti which is the only wholemeal pasta I like although it is near to impossible to find at the store! I was recently sent My First Vegemite which is a less salty version of the savoury spread and I decided to use it here. Embarrassingly, I preferred it but not after spying the note that it was recommended for children 1+ years old. I guess that would be me!

The spaghetti was in fact quite nice. It reminded me of a treat that I make myself once every 6-12 months. When I or my mother make soy sauce chicken I keep the salty, caramelised sauce for another day and use it as a spaghetti sauce. It’s not a dish I make often as there is an absence of vegetables but I figured using wholemeal spaghetti would work in my dietary offset program (like carbon offsetting but for diets). And after trying it I must say that sure it’s not magazine spread beautiful but it tastes very good indeed.

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The Nigella Lawson Masterclass At The Melbourne Food & Wine Festival!

nigella lawson mfwf

The Domestic Goddess herself Nigella Lawson

“I am completely ill equipped to give a masterclass” says that familiar voice. The disarmingly modest Nigella Lawson aka the Domestic Goddess enters the room. Everyone is atwitter and there is excitement in the air. Nigella’s Masterclass, a coup for the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival and over a year in the planning comes at the end of a long day on the last weekend of the festival. For many it is the highlight of the 10 days with many travelling from all over Australia, myself included. I’m lucky enough to nab myself a seat in the front row with Nigella only metres away. Forget the haute couture front row, this is much better!

nigella lawson mfwf

By way of explanation of her first point she explains that “I lurched into food by mistake”. She’s chatty and very funny and starts with an introduction promising “I will start cooking” but of course no one cares. She could recite a shopping list and everyone in the room would be riveted. Wearing a fitting black dress, her signature cropped cardigan in royal blue and  black and white striped kitten heels with bright red toe nails (I had to look, I wanted to see whether she cooked in Choos) she then changes to cook wearing leather thongs. She looks every inch as amazing as she does on television but still remains not excessively made up or overdone.

nigella lawson mfwf

She starts off explaining that she is a cook, not a chef which is an important distinction and that for this Masterclass she will be cooking recipes from the women that she loves. These women are her friend and “cooking mother” Anna Del Conte, her mother and her grandmother. She illustrates the difference between a home cook and a chef using a quote from Gordon Ramsay where he says that to work in a restaurant kitchen everything has to look the same coming out. She tells us that because of this she could never be a chef because at home things don’t all look the same. Recipes evolve and change all the time and sometimes things get tweaked according to mood or want and she likes cooking that gives you the freedom to fiddle about.

nigella lawson mfwf

There is a classic Nigella moment when she says “I like a bit of brutality in the kitchen” with that gleam in her eye and she leans onto a raw, whole chicken to flatten it slightly to make it easier to cook. Food is about legacy and passing recipes on and along with recipes traits or style are passed on. She amuses everyone with a story of a woman who made a pot roast and to start she would cut off both ends of the pot roast. When asked why she did this she answered that it was what her own mother had always done so she did it. When they asked her mother why she had done it she said that that was her mother had done. When they asked the grandmother why she had done it she said that the reason whys he did it was because her pot was too small to fit the pot roast!

nigella lawson mfwf

After browning the chicken she places it in a pot to boil along with celery, carrots which brings us to carrot coins. “I find circles of carrots make me depressed” she says citing school meals with carrot circles as the possible cause “But by all means if carrots don’t make you depressed, use them… If you had to be an expert to cook, the human race wouldn’t exist.”

nigella lawson mfwf

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Bompas & Parr Jellymongers, Elena Arzak & Anna Gare, Melbourne Food & Wine Festival

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

I’m on my second day at the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival and I’m not having a very successful morning. I had planned to to have some sort of breakfast but I slept in due to the repeated hitting of the snooze button due to the terribly comfortable bed and night blinds at the InterContinental which meant that my body doth resist the urge to wake as it believes, wrongly, that it is the middle of the night.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Harry Parr (left) and Sam Bompas (right)

I fly out of my room rushing and abandon all (flimsy) intentions to walk or catch a tram and catch a taxi to the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre. The Masterclasses are held both here and at The Langham hotel and transport is provided between the two venues. The two Masterclasses that I specifically wanted to attend were of course Nigella Lawson but also Bompas & Parr. I have a strange relationship with jelly. Growing up my father worked as a food technologist for a company that made gelatine but they specialised in powdered gelatine that we never quite got to dissolve properly. So we had jelly pretty much every time we had dessert which drove my sister and I to quite loathe the stuff. “Jelly is not real dessert” we’d say. Cue several decades later and I’d find myself married to an absolute jelly fiend and I had somehow become again fascinated with the stuff. Enough to make several attempts on a underwater jelly cake and buy gelatine leaves by the bulk pack.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

St Paul’s Cathedral jellies

So Dear Reader, take a seat next to me throughout this day of masterclasses! One thing that I didn’t quite expect when seeing Bompas and Parr, the jellymongers (aka jelly artists) was the posh voices coming out of Sam Bompas and Harry Parr. Sam is the more talkative of the two and the showman whilst Harry seems to be shyer member of the team. We do hear some sighs when Sam mentions a girlfriend. They’ve arrived in Australia from Britain where they’ve established themselves as doers of all sorts of weird and wobbly things with jelly (and yes they put “jellymongers” on their customs entrance form when entering Australia).

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Harry shows a 3D model of St Paul’s Cathedral

They start the show by explaining how they started at London’s Borough Markets. Harry was an architect and Sam formerly a geographer and both former careers have helped them with their current vocation of jellymongers. Why jelly? The story goes that Harry held a dinner party attended by Sam. Harry spent many hours cooking the curries which people ate with a nonchalance but when they jelly was brought out, people became very excited. They brainstormed the idea in a pub and then approached the market organisers and we were promptly told to “get lost”. Undeterred they continued with their jelly love and made jelly at home. At the beginning they didn’t have any molds at all and used bedsheets and pillowcases to strain the mixtures.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

How many things can you make into jelly? Let me count the ways…

Their focus is on proper jelly or fresh fruit jelly. With fresh fruit come a range of challenges such as balance and acidity. A fruit like pineapple has an enzyme called bromelain which is a flesh eating enzyme which can eat the gelatine in jelly which obviously is not ideal.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Showing expensive copper molds

The key to jelly is balance much like a cocktail. Harry begins to make a basic orange juice make jelly on a scale. They use 500g of water which is a good amount for four people and this requires 5 sheets of gelatin. And yes they only use leaf gelatin and warn us against using powdered gelatin as leaf gelatin will come up clearer and doesn’t have that animal smell. The higher the grade of gelatin the clearer the resulting jelly will be.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Sweet jelly requires quite a bit of sugar as it is served chilled and chilled items need to be sweeter. They explain this by using the example of the more pronounced sweetness of melted ice cream versus frozen. The history of jelly dates back before Christ and for centuries afterwards, jelly, particularly sweet jelly as it evolved, was considered a high end item for the wealthy as sugar was costly as was the gelatin itself and refrigeration.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Striped jelly made in mandarins

They also tried making jelly from scratch the medieval way. “It took 20 long hours and it still tasted of pig” Sam confesses. Henry the VIII also served gilded blancmange at dinners. Jelly molds used to be made out of wood from sycamore trees but then in the Georgian and Victorian eras molds started to be made in copper and metal. Copper is the best jelly mold material as it conducts heat very well although it is the costliest type of mold. One needs only use lukewarm water to unmold a jelly and conversely it sets quicker over an ice bath. Ceramic is the hardest type of mold to work with and requires lining with a loosening agent like a vegetable fat. One also needs to pour in almost set jelly so as not to dislodge the vegetable fat.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Flinders Street Station jelly

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Harrys experience as an architect helps when developing molds in 3D which he does on the computer. While in Melbourne they recently made a mold of Flinders Street station made of Hendrick’s gin, rose and cucumber jelly. Jelly bridges, jelly wrestling launches and working with Heston Blumenthal and funeral jellies make up their days now. Funeral jellies are popular as Sam says it a good way to get alcohol in people! Their most notorious project was making “occult jams”  made using a speck of Princess Diana’s hair purchased on ebay as well as two other flavours: Absinthe and pineapple with sand from the Great Pyramids and plum and oak with wood from Lord Nelson’s ship.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Gold leaf jellies

They show us how to make a few types of jellies starting with a simple fruit juice jelly.They melt the gelatine sheets in water and juice directly on the induction stovetop as induction can heat to a very low temperature. With gas, they don’t recommended melting it directly but over a double boiler. They show us layered jellies made inside a scooped out mandarin (take the end of a teaspoon and hollow it out from the green end) layering it with orange jelly and white blancmange.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

And despite  the fact that this isn’t supposed to be a tasting session, the Bompas & Parr boys pass around some jellies for us to taste-all quite alcoholic I might add! ;) All of the recipes featured in these Masterclasses are given in the festival recipe book which is free with admission. A cardamom and honey blancmange and a violet, prosecco and gold funeral jelly are also demonstrated and they key to setting jellies or blancmanges with bits in them that can float to the bottom is to wait until the jelly is partially starting to set to add these.

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Sam Bompas

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Harry Parr

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Before we know it the hour is over and the boys sign books and programmes and charm the gathering of girls (and yes it’s only girls in this line). They’re enthusiastic and sweet and chat genuinely to their fans before they move up the back to catch our next act: the fabulous Elena Arzak (pronounced Arthak).

bompas parr, elena arzak, anna gare

Elena Arzak

One of the three themes for this festival is women in food and Elena is a wonderful representation of women as a three starred Michelin chef. She is also incredibly down to earth and without pretense and before the show starts she asks Bompas & Parr if they wouldn’t mind taking a photo with her and greets everyone that passes her station with a smile. She speaks English with an accent but apart from some words which she asks to be translated (which are actually just like the English word with a bit of Spanish accent to it) it is easy to understand her.

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Hearts Macaron High Tea, The Langham & The InterContinental Melbourne

Hello my lovelies! guess where I’ve landed today? Well no need to guess as I’ve put it in the title but I’m in Melbourne for the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival! I’m booked in to do some rather exciting things including seeing the very famous Ms Nigella Lawson in a Masterclass as well as indulging in some macarons at the Hearts Macaron High Tea at the Langham and some other goodies which I’ll report to all of you at lightning speed. No waiting around for these stories to pop up!

My brutally early morning wake up call was soothed by some food – what else of course? After we touched down I was picked up by a driver  and shortly after I arrived at my hotel, the Intercontinental Melbourne The Rialto where I dropped my bags, slapped on some makeup to make myself look vaguely human again (I pity anyone that sees me on these early morning flights) and hightailed it in a taxi to the Langham where Japanese pastry chef Hisako Ogita, author of “I Heart Macarons” is overseeing the creation of some macarons and a macaron morning tea. She has even invented a special pink macaron for The Langham in the flavour of pink ginger just for the festival.

I enter The Langham foyer and spot a huge flower arrangement with some macarons among them. The lobby area and the walk up to the Aria Lounge are very Mad Men-I expect Betty Draper to swan past me at any moment. The Langham is famous for their themed afternoon teas and I recall having a lovely Alice in Wonderland one in the Auckland Langham hotel. Coming up soon is a kid’s “animal farm” themed afternoon tea. Today there are three morning teas on offer: Hearts Macaron which come with a plate of macarons as well as a special appearance by Hisako herself, a classic morning tea and a chocolate indulgence morning tea. All have the same sandwiches and scones but only the sweet layer differs.

the langham afternoon tea

Can you spot the macarons?

the langham afternoon tea

Earl grey tea and sparkling wine

We start with a glass of sparkling wine and tea, Earl Grey for me which comes out in a silver pot with an extra jug of hot water for refilling. My dining companion Liz and I dither over which morning tea to have but settle on having one of the Hearts Macaron teas and one chocolate indulgence tea (both $43 per person). After all that means more to taste. I’m feeling the post flight tension leaving me already.

the langham afternoon tea

Chocolate Indulgence stand $43

We take a look at the Hearts Macaron three tier stand first. On the sandwich layer at the bottom are five types of sandwiches, one rolled and four types of finger sandwiches with two in white bread and two in brown. I start with the rolled smoked salmon sandwich on the top. Now if you know the story of afternoon tea you’ll have read that the Duchess of Bedford the VII started the whole afternoon tea trend (bless her!). She has long since passed and we are now up to our 14th Duchess of Bedford and apparently she dined here at the Langham and partook of their afternoon tea. It was her suggestion that they include a rolled sandwich in the sandwich selection!

the langham afternoon tea

Even though I love wholemeal and grainy bread the white bread sandwiches are the pick. The chicken sandwich is excellent-so good that when they come around and offer to replenish it with more I eagerly nod yes (which when you see how much we have to eat you’ll agree is a foolhardy gesture). The egg and mayonnaise sandwich is also moreish with the soft, downy bread. The brown bread sandwiches weren’t quite as exciting, in fact we thought that the cream cheese and chive sandwiches could have done with some smoked salmon and the cucumber and cream cheese sandwich would have been much better with the white bread.

the langham afternoon tea

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