

Good Morning Dear Readers! Today we’re off on our last stop of the picturesque Beechworth and Milawa region in Victoria. After a restful sleep, my friend Gina and I head off early and take the 50 minute drive from Beechworth to neighbouring town of Milawa. Milawa is known for its gourmet foods and producers with much of the produce popping up on restaurant menu. Items such as Milawa Mustards travel as far as Bells at Killcare on the Central Coast of NSW. At Milawa they have started a very cute idea-the Pedal to Produce bike system where people can hire bikes to visit the various producers in Milawa. We see plenty of people making use of the cute bikes (and hopefully there might be a tandem bike in the future!).

But first things first! We need to check into our hotel room. We are booking into Lindenwarrah, a family run series of hotels. There are forty rooms here and some rooms have a view of the vineyard. There is a large shared verandah and a pool and the rooms are large and spacious with white plantation style touches.


View from the bedroom
There are also two huge lounges on each floor and the bottom floor lounge is the pick with three enormous floor to window views of the merlot vineyard but what really sets this place apart is the service. They’re friendly, deferential and keen to help out with everyone. When we ask about the corn cob bread at the Milawa Bakery that we enjoyed at 1860 they offered to get us some loaves to take home with us which we gratefully accept. “They’ll sell out if you don’t get there before noon” Tim says to us displaying country hospitality to a tee. With our bread sorted, we set off for a spot of lunch and shopping!

Milawa Cheese Factory

Ceridwen greets us with the magical words “Would you try to try some cheeses?” Gina is a big cheese fan so this is particularly exciting for her. The most popular cheese here at the Milawa Cheese Factory is the mild but gorgeous King River Gold which has a very accessible, mild taste to it. The other one that I particularly like the the Milawa Gold which is stronger and more pungent with an oozy, runny centre. We try a camembert, a cajun pepper rolle fresh goat’s cheese as well as a cheese named after Cerwiden herself. When her father was developing it it in 1991, it was simply called “Project X” but Ceridwen suggested a better name might be hers!

There are two blue cheeses, starting with a Milawa blue mild and an aged blue which is stunning and has been aged for one and a half or two months longer using milk obtained from local farmers. And then there’s Tomme. Underneath the cheese tasting tray there is a display of striking molded cheeses. These weren’t quite right for sale upon tasting but they thought that they’d make a striking display and they certainly do. This lot of Tomme has blue mold running through it but normally it doesn’t which Ceridwen explains is the beauty of cheese. She is set to take over the family business after doing time working at famed London cheese retailer Neal’s Yard. Her family moved to Milawa and purchased a derelict butter factory when she was eight choosing this location as the famous Brown Brothers winery was down the road. We only wish we could bring back some cheese!
Brown Brothers

Speaking of Brown Brothers, a visit to Milawa just cannot be had without a visit to Brown Brothers, one of the most widely distributed winemakers in Australia. Their moscato is a crowd pleasing bottle that Mr NQN’s sister used to drink every night. Here at their Milawa location they have their cellar door along with a restaurant headed by chef Danny Neate.

Customers ordering wine in the garden
Food on the menu here has a recommended glass of matching wine and the menu is devised with the wines first then matching the food to the wine. And cleverly, all food prices include a glass of the wine but if you want to change your wine, they will also do this for you. We start with a glass of the 2010 Limited Release Prosecco which is lovely and peachy.

Wagyu beef tartare, egg yolk, horseradish, garlic crouton $22
Having sampled quite a bit this morning, Gina and I share an entree and have a main each (plus the desserts sound fabulous so we must leave room). We share the soft, creamy wagyu beef tartare with the raw egg yolk broken and stirred through. It is paired with lacy, holey croutons. The condiments are finely diced and the kick is made via horseradish and it is well seasoned and moreish.

Smoked Berkshire pork rib, boudin noir, beetroot and Jerusalem artichoke (gluten free) $36 served with a 2009 Limited Release “Heathcote” Shiraz
The smoked berkshire pork rib has been exclusively smoked for them by the butcher for a period of eight hours and it is then cooked sous vide for an additional eight hours at 60 degrees celsius. It is very smokey and is paired with boudin noir (black pudding) and roughly pureed beetroot as well as Jerusalem artichokes and pickled glove artichokes. On top is a layer of more boudin noir and thin slices of Jerusalem artichoke. I prefer sweeter flavours with pork and the boudin noir is a very omnipresent and dominant but rich addition to the already very richly smoked pork.

Lacquered duck breast, peppered pear, sauce bigarade $38 served with a 2007 Limited Release Sparkling Shiraz
We both adored this dish, the petite piece of sticky lacquered duck breast, black peppered pear and thin pastry wrapped duck meat dumpling and sauce bigarade which is an demi glace based orange sauce. It really hits the spot and balances well with the sweet flavour but never getting overly sweet.

Cabbage salad, soft herbs, salad cream $9
The cabbage salad uses pieces of regular cabbage which is slightly butter and it has a very lemony salad cream sauce which is a bit too lemony for my liking (and I do love lemons).

Hand cut chips $9
Perfectly seasoned, crispy and blistered on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside, we keep going back for more of these piping hot hand cut babies.

Durif ice cream, chocolate ganache, apple $8
Read More