I am staring at my phone. It is 4:55pm and I am awaiting a text message which will get me one step closer to knowing where I am dining this evening. You see I have no idea where I am eating tonight except that I know it is in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs. At 5pm my phone beeps. The suburb is Darlinghurst and there are instructions to head there and at 6pm the address will be given. I don’t quite have the inclination to wander the streets or bars of Darlinghurst by myself so I sit tight and wait until 6pm to receive further messages.

The Library

At 6pm a simple address is given: “32 Burton Street, Darlinghurst”. Hmm I say to myself, I know that address! I pop it into google and up pops The Commons, which was formerly The Pond, a pop up restaurant I had visited a while back. Built in 1842 or 1850 it was formerly a dairy with convict common gardens located on the corner of the site. A small creek ran down from Taylor Square to Wooloomooloo past the property. During the sixties John Singleton had his first office there (he and a friend planted the giant Jacaranda in the backyard with a plaque that read ‘As long as we live, we shall grow’). Then during the seventies the building became a restaurant called The Different Drummer before changing hands where it then lay dormant for years. The building owner posted a sign outside that asked passers-by for suggestions on ‘What do do with this cottage? Interesting ideas invited’  and apparently he liked this idea just fine.

I make my way there and arrive at The Commons. Bicycles are lined up outside and the whole building is actually an 160 year old structure that has been renovated with greenery and lots of wood. In fact the come hither comforting Wintery smell of a wood burning stove pervades throughout. I ask where the Secret Foodies dinner is being held and am directed “Downtown”. Downtown means the basement level bar of this renovated 160 year old house where pre 1960′s cocktails are served and little plates of food are offered. I walk past the kitchen and the chef gives a friendly “Hi!” and past the vintage books in the display cases.

I join the three secret foodies that are already gathered and meet Alex aka Ms Darlinghurst who has organised the Secret Foodies dinners. So far she has held 24 of these events ranging in size from tonight’s 14 people up to 50. The concept is simple, people sign up and pay for a dinner knowing a vague location and a date and time and on the day, two hours beforehand they receive the suburb and one hour before they receive the address. The restaurant is usually somewhere new although at times there may a golden oldie being rediscovered thrown in.

Negroni Sbagliato

I start with a negroni sbagliato which is Campari and sweet vermouth on ice with prosecco. It has that familiar bitterness from the Campari plus a sweetness from the prosecco and is quite potent indeed! And even though I seem to be the only person by myself (note to most, you may want to come with a friend) people are friendly and chatty.

Mixed cured meats

A selection of mixed antipasto plates come out. The first plate is the salami, breseola and pancetta which is excellent. Soon after, the rest of the 14 people arrive and fill up the Downtown section that we’re occupying which was in fact the former servant’s quarters.

Vegetarian antipasti

Another table gets a vegetarian antipasti and we get a bowl of olives. We don’t get the antipasti plate and the waitress tells us that only three plates of each will go out whereas there are four tables of us which seems like a bit of a glitch as people were interested in trying everything. Also on the menu there are mentions of three plates which we didn’t get which is quite disappointing as they sounded rather good. They were cheddar and pickles; potato skins and ketchup and tumbleweed calamari as well as bread and oil. I didn’t see hair nor hide of these so I’m not sure where they went!

Stuffed zucchini flowers

Our last antipasto dish is stuffed zucchini flowers which are crunchy deep fried zucchini flower stuffed with a seasoned cheesy filling. They were served piping hot and were crunchy and full of flavour.

Alex asks Rob the owner to come out and have a chat to us which he does. He and his friends built the tables and stools that we’re sitting on (in fact they are blown up versions of Dutch milking stools). The bookshelf and the area behind called “The Library” are used for spirit masterclasses and careful not to take out or browse one of the encyclopaedias that sit on the bookshelf as the books help keep the bookshelf upright as part of a carefully balanced act!

Read More

The weather outside is newly cold and the rain clouds threaten up above. We’re driving through the city and jittery. It seems in one stretch of the road, people have lost all sense and we see a car coming right towards us going the wrong way in a one way road. A fat raindrop plops on the windscreen and some streets are closed off for a marathon or some sort of event. All I want is to be indoors and not to be threatened by the presence of pedestrians or drivers with a deathwish.

I arrive at Baroque just as a light rain falls down and take a seat in a warm bistro where the smell of bread and warm Winter food soothes me. Sometimes that’s all you need to right the day. Mr NQN joins me shortly afterwards after scoring a nearby park and the day suddenly looks much calmer and better.

We’re here to try out the Winter menu at Baroque Bistro and to taste the new season’s macarons in flavours such as chestnut and pear, black truffle and chai. The last time I was here I was making macarons with patissier Jean-Michel Raynaud. Today there is a macaron class in progress but this time we will eating. After a start like this morning’s I don’t think my nerves could have taken on macaron making.

Fricasse of calamari saffron cracker, crab cream

The calamari at first looking fat like it might be Israeli couscous is tender and the dish is restrained and delicate flavours from the lightly fragrant creamy crab soup to the very the saffron cracker which is thin and bubbly, like a very thin prawn cracker texture but with that unmistakable honeyed saffron flavour (and there are visible strands of the saffron dotted through it).

Confit bangalow pork neck, mussel and lovage emulsion, garlic, charred leek

The pork neck is a soft, melting slice of pork neck accompanied by three chargrilled leeks, a mussel emulsion and sweet baked garlic. The mussel emulsion is interesting, in fact it tastes more of mustard and the herb lovage than mussels but it is a lovely creamy accompaniment. They’re being generous with the leeks but really one or two leeks would have done proportion wise and I even enjoy pairing mouthfuls of the pork neck, the emulsion and the garlic without the leek. Interestingly this is based on a popular staff meal at Baroque (please form an orderly queue to work there!) with variations made of a pot of mussels with bacon, garlic, leek, celery and parsley. They use lovage which they grow themselves which is a celery tasting herb which like celery can overwhelm other flavours.

Barramundi, vadouvan, heirloom carrot, soubise, chicken vinaigrette

Have you ever heard of vadouvan? It’s what they consider a French curry and when they set down the barramundi in front of us the distinct but unexpected aroma of curry. The vadouvan which is dusted on top of the barramundi means that the barramundi needs a touch more seasoning as the skin s quite crispy but hard to cut against the moist fish underenath. It is paired with purple and orange heirloom carrots and a chicken vinaigrette which is quite mild. Piling the plate with chips gives it that saltiness.

Confit leg of Llandilo duck, glazed parsnip, roast onion, wood sorrel

Read More

Hello Readers! I’m off to visit another country today and of course the first step to a visit is to get on a plane. Speaking of, have you ever wondered what a First Class airline lounge looks like? I have always wanted to know what a $20,000 airline ticket buys you access to. So when we were travelling to New Zealand with Relais & Chateaux to visit some of their best lodges the country had to offer and we learned that we were flying Qantas Business Class and were offered a chance to check out the First Class lounge we jumped at it.

Designed by Marc Newson it is nothing like I what I expected. I had expected something along the lines of Donald Trump’s Trump Tower (without the crazy man with the birth certificate issues). All gold and I think an episode of The Simpsons imprinted a fountain and a swan in my mind somewhere. The Newson designed lounge is all sleek lines in pattern reflecting the airline wings. There are luxurious touches though and they come via little surprises such as the leather tiles in the library which are said to wear our so easily that they need to be replaced every three years.

The spa treatment area is a first class lounge only perk and passengers get a one hour treatment per person from the menu. They are contacted the day before they fly to be offered this and the spa is so busy that passengers can’t walk in for a treatment. Although for $20,000 a ticket, I would want more than an hour’s treatment! They couldn’t pry me out to there…

We sit down for breakfast and try the food on offer. Designed by Neil Perry there is a buffet of items to choose from but breakfast is table service. There are four very good champagnes on offer which we start with as well as a freshly squeezed orange juice. The breakfast offerings are similar to what you might find at a cafe and all eggs are organic there are items such as egg white omelettes as well as eggs benedict, porridge etc.

Organic oat porridge with banana, seeds, nuts and white clover honey

Although I usually go for eggs for breakfast and have to be in the mood to have porridge (Winter usually does the trick) this porridge is definitely one of the picks for breakfast. Nubbly with seeds and nuts the porridge is as Goldilocks would say “juuust right” in terms of sweetness.

Egg white omelette with vine ripened tomato, ricotta and chives

The egg white omelette ordered out of curiosity and to save some calories is excellent with the right amount of flavour and seasoning. I sometimes find egg white omelettes can be bland but this has plenty of flavour from the tomato, ricotta and chives.

A side plate of smoked salmon and Schulz’s bacon is ordered to go with the egg white omelette (low carb eating and all!) and the smoked salmon is particularly good. Note no brown bits on the salmon so it is premium quality.

Scrambled organic eggs with field mushrooms and Schulz’s bacon

We watch the view of the aircraft that we are to take and we test out their first class service. When you check into the lounge they take your boarding pass and they are supposed to alert you when your flight is ready to board you. We sit there waiting nervously seeing the time tick by wondering if they will let us know. It gets frighteningly close to take off time so we move ourselves just as they approach us and make a bit of a mad dash to the gate which is frustratingly close by but we have to walk down quite a few gates to get there from the lounge. Those in our group flying business class aren’t getting paged but the economy passengers are which is interesting! I guess you fly business not to be bothered!

For the short flight to New Zealand, there is no first class service and business is the highest grade available. I get a seat in the first row and when they close the curtain I am reminded of the Seinfeld episode where Jerry flies in First class and Elaine in Economy.

We’re offered champagne or juice while we settle in for take off and I opt for something soft (I know, shame on me!). The entertainment kicks in and I pop on my noise cancelling headphones and drift off calmly. The thing about business class is that they leave you alone. I find that with economy you get bothered by all sorts of things, people getting in and out and just other things but here they leave you alone. I suppose they think that you might be a busy business traveller who needs to think of important businessey things like global takeovers etc.

Smoked ocean trout with herbed orzo salad and caper dressing

This was my sort of entree. I do think that for business and first class they need to make the meals distinct and serving them on proper plates instead of the rectangular trays is one good way and the little tablecloth is another (although putting a tray on top of the tablecloth doesn’t seem necessary. The very generous portion of smoked salmon is excellent quality and the herby orzo salad has a lovely crunch in it from the lightly blanched vegetables. Oh and before I forget, the cutlery and cups are designed by Marc Newson too and the cutlery is made by Alessi.

Beef fillet with mushroom sauce, rosemary and thyme butter, potato puree and broccolini

I know I shouldn’t have ordered the steak as that is often the hardest thing for an airline to do but I was hoping that they would rise to the occasion. Presentation wise this would have been nicer on a proper plate and not a rectangular tray. My high from the entree is deflated as I cut through the steak to find it totally cooked through and quite difficult to cut and the mushroom sauce gives it an unappetising grey shade. And although I love butter there is just too much of it on the broccolini-you can probably see it on the left hand side. I should have gone with the non steak option but you know me, I live in hope! I should note that my travelling companions in economy were quite happy with their food although I didn’t further the Jerry Elaine Seinfeld experience by going back there and seeing what it was like.

Maggie Beer ice cream and almond bread

I do love this trend that airlines have for giving ice cream for dessert instead of the mystery panna cotta/bavarois/cake square that they usually serve. We were served the famous and divine Maggie Beer burnt fig, honeycomb and caramel ice cream along with an almond biscotti.

I amuse myself with the entertainment system and my iPad and before we know it, we’ve touched down in Auckland and on the way lost a couple of hours so it’s late in the afternoon. Our driver collects us from the airport and we take the drive to our accommodation.

I’m feeling dramatic. Allow me to explain why and why my feeling dramatic is more likely to take the form of accidentally flinging food (see prawn cutlet incident) than breaking out in song. We’ve checked in to Mollies, a luxurious hotel in Auckland and there’s an opera singer singing his talented heart out in front of me in what they call musical h’ors deauvres. There are some 250 candles lit, flame swaying and glowing and around us surround thick curtains, enormous vases, long, slender art deco champagne glasses and sweeping flower arrangements that I would swear would rival Elton John’s florist’s bill. I expect a diva to join bass baritone Moses Mackay any minute now.

I’m touring around New Zealand’s top properties as a guest of Relais & Chateaux which is an association of hoteliers much like the Michelin guide is to food, Relais & Chateaux is to hotels. They’re not that widely known in Australia yet and a part of that is because there are only very few properties that are part of the Relais & Chateaux group. The standards are strict and the membership terms include details such as room size, ideal temperature for the room between 19-24C, a turndown service, being offered refreshment upon arrival, down to minor details such as “Elegant toothbrush glasses (if possible made of glass)” and placement of power sockets!

In fact Beyonce and Jay Z recently booked out the entire of Mollies and stayed in the room next to mine. Each of the 13 suites at Mollies is decorated differently. And I know, that raises some concerns with me as sometimes some rooms don’t get as nice a treatment as others but when we’re shown room after room any concerns about drawing the short straw are rendered invalid.

It’s all the doing of one of Mollie’s owners Frances, daughter of the original owner Mollie who back then called this the Harbour Bridge Guest House and formerly the residence of Auckland’s first mayor. She’s the musical link and provider of drama via deft decoration and we go from room to room carressing surfaces and oohing and aahing over details.

It is all decorated by Frances – half using existing items and half using things that she liked to collect over the years from when she was a teenager living in London to later in Europe and New York. Plus there is that stunning view of Auckland Harbour which is not too shabby at all.

Read More