Monthly Archives: June, 2011

“Smash & Crab” Crab & Harissa Soup

crab harissa soup

Hate your boss? Your neighbour driving you up the wall with their decidedly bogan choice of music (yes I’m talking to you neighbour!)? A friend or a relative sending you passive aggressive emails? Well do I have the recipe for you! And if I told you that it would require you to vent any pent up fury inside you then would that make it even more fun?

Now I’m quite fortunate in that I am my own boss and I love that fact. Admittedly I am headstrong and I have literally had a rainbow of terrible bosses over the years. If I were to do a little round up I’ve had a Nazi sympathiser, the supervisor that tried to seduce my then boyfriend and call us at 2am in the morning and the paranoid one who we were all convinced was locked in a cellar for most of his formative years.

crab harissa soup

Then there was the boss that on the first day called me into her office and asked me how to set up “One of those cool hotmail accounts (it was the year 2000 and hotmail was not “cool”!).” She also had a copy of Internet for Dummies in her locked drawer (alarmingly, she was the media director of an internet company!) and would routinely shut me out of meetings. I didn’t take it personally until her husband came into the office and when people introduced him to me his expression changed from that of benign pleasantry to a face contorted full of spite. He cast a significant look towards his wife, my boss and let out a slow “Oh yesssss I’ve know” to which everyone took a step back and eyed both of us. Clearly they had been talking…

crab harissa soup

Thankfully I don’t have any annoying bosses any more. In fact if I don’t have to deal with someone I just don’t which is one of the perverse pleasures of this job. Another pleasure of this job is talking about food in interviews and last week I was interviewed by Louise Maher for 666 ABC radio Canberra (you can listen to it here) to talk cupcakes and they asked me what my interactions with my readers were like. I told her that they were lovely  there were the comments which I absolutely adore but also emails full of sweet and lovely sentiments, questions, restaurant recommendations and  recipes. One reader Catherine had sent me a recipe by chef Jared Ingersoll which involved baking crabs in the oven and then periodically smashing at them with a mallet or rolling pin. Sanctioned violence in the name of a good meal? I liked it! Then another friend Renee sent it to me and I knew that it was a sign, make the crab and make it on the long weekend!

I decided to invite Queen Viv over, who needed to get some frustrations out and we set to work. The recipe calls for three crabs to be rubbed in a spice paste and then roasted along with some capsicum (peppers) , tomato, onion and garlic. And the most fun part is that every 15 minutes or so you get to take the baking tin full of crab and flavours (which by the way smells so alluringly come hither that you may have to restrain yourself and others) and smash it to smithereens taking out any fury you have on the crab. The best part is that the angrier you are the tastier the soup will be as the flavour packed shells release their deep seated flavour. See what I mean? Sanctioned violence! The whole thing is then simmered with stock and herbs for the last 10 minutes and then blitzed with a stick blender and then strained.

crab harissa soup

The recipe calls for a fish stock but I didn’t have any so I used a new brand called The Stock Merchant who had sent me some of their stock to sample. They use free range chicken and beef bones and the stock is unsalted so that you can add the amount of salt that you want later.

The resulting flavour of this soup is incredible. There is an amazing depth of flavour from layering the soup. The careful and fun smashing of the crab means that you get the delicate sweetness of the crab but it also avoids that overt seafoody flavour in some bisques that I find too strong. I will warn you do not wear your best clothes and if you do like I foolishly did, get plenty of cold water on the stains immediately and they will come out.

It is not an every day soup, it’s a little bit of a production for that but it is perfect for a dinner party or if you want to impress anyone and it makes plenty and enough to serve six as an entree and can be made ahead of time. It was just as good the day after and the day after that. And as for the leftover crab meat and vegetable mixture I did nibble at that and there are the occasionally bits of shell but it was so flavour packed that I treated it like eating fish with bones-worthwhile but you have to stop every now and then for the shell. But whatever you do save this recipe for when you or a friend is feeling frustrated and smash away knowing that the madder you are the tastier the soup will be! Play your loudest music, scream when you smash but whatever you do make this soup ;)

So Dear Reader, tell me about your worst boss and what you do to get your frustrations out?

P.S. Don’t forget the To Market To Market winners have been announced here! Have a look to see whether you’ve won a prize ;)

crab harissa soup

Crab and Harissa Soup

  • 3 whole blue swimmer crabs (about 750grams)
  • 1 teaspoon cumin
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
  • 1/3 cup or 2 3/4 ozs soft brown sugar
  • a pinch of chilli flakes
  • Salt and pepper
  • 150ml/5 fl ozs vegetable oil
  • 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped
  • 3 red capsicums, seeded and chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 red onion, chopped
  • 1.5 litres/6 cups/52 fl ozs. fish or chicken stock
  • 1/2 bunch coriander
  • 3 sprigs mint
  • You will also need a mallet or French rolling pin

crab harissa soup

Blue swimmer crabs

crab harissa soup

Removing the lip from the underside of the crab

crab harissa soup

Pulling apart the shell and taking off the top of the shell

crab harissa soup

The dead man’s gills (the clear puffy finger shaped items)

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/350F. Prepare the crabs-it’s much easier than you might think. Have a large bowl ready. Remove the tab from the underside of the crab and then separate the top shell from the bottom shell. The meat will come with the bottom shell. remove the “dead man’s gills” and then cut the crab into quarters using a heavy chef’s knife. Place in a bowl being sure to collect all of the juice and meat.

crab harissa soup

Chopping in half

crab harissa soup

The finished quartered crab

crab harissa soup

Pounding the toasted spices

2. Prepare the spice mix by toasting the cumin, caraway, coriander and fenugreek seeds in a small dry saucepan until the coriander seeds start to pop and they become fragrant. Grind in a mortar and pestle and then sprinkle over the crabs in the bowl along with the brown sugar, chilli flakes, salt and pepper.

crab harissa soup

The spice rubbed crabs in the heated baking tin

crab harissa soup

Smash away!

3. Place a sturdy roasting tin in the oven-don’t use your best one as you will be smashing at it with a mallet. When it is hot, add the oil and then the crab and spices. Mix together well and then bake for 20 minutes. After the first 5 or 10 minutes take out the tin and use a heavy mallet or rolling pin to smash at the crab. It gets easier as the crab cooks and to avoid giving your kitchen a Jackson Pollock, cover the tin with a teatowel and smash it underneath it (or just press heavily with the mallet to crush the shells). Do this one or two more times within the 20 minute period.

crab harissa soup

Adding the chopped tomato, capsicum, onion and garlic

crab harissa soup

After baking

crab harissa soup

More smashing

4. Then add the capsicum, tomato, garlic and onion to the tin and stir to combine. Cook for an hour taking it out two or three times to smash up the shells-or more if you’re really feeling the fury. It should start to smell incredible at this point so you may want to restrain anyone rowdy and hungry…

crab harissa soup

All smashed up and ready for the pot

5. Heat up a large saucepan or cast iron pot that can fit the soup in it and transfer the contents of the tin into the pot.  Heat with the warmed stock and add the coriander and mint and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Using a stick blender, blend it up as much as possible. You won’t be able to do the large legs or the large back shell but don’t worry, do as much as possible. run through a fine sieve making sure to press it down to get all of the liquid. There will be a lot  of liquid so keep pressing-this is preciously good! Serve with some freshly baked bread.

crab harissa soup

Cooking in the pot with stock and herbs

crab harissa soup

A Night At The Opera With A Peter Gilmore Dinner!

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

I walk into the building and a gentle breeze of snow flakes wafts around me. There’s a carriage to my right and an incandescent beautiful snowy forest scene on my left. Where on earth am I? It’s cold in Sydney but surely not that cold. I’m at Opera Australia headquarters for one of their annual fund-raising dinners cooked by no other than Quay’s Peter Gilmore. Men walk by in tuxedos and women glide by in long dresses with trains and furs and an Issey Miyake Pleats Please coat sweeps past us. This is not your usual crowd.

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

We mingle with a glass of Joseph Perrier champagne or a glass of Vitek rose vodka which is said to be made from rose petal pressings and blended with extracted almond oils and a hint of lime. We take a little peek at the silent auction and live auction items and the eagle ice sculpture before we make our way into the main room resplendently decked out in gilt framed paintings, a traditional royal Russian table setting, lots of sweeping velvet curtains and all sorts of splendorous opulence. In fact there is about $2 million worth of props in this room.

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

Jill Dupleix and Terry Durack

Our masters of ceremony for the evening is husband and wife pair Terry Durack and Jill Dupleix who are themselves opera buffs. They explain the format for the evening while enrobed in Russian fur hats and coats. Each time one of these dinners are held, one of Sydney’s top chefs volunteers their time for the event. 70% of all funding for Opera Australia is from private fund raising with the government contributing 30% of them and they have three events a year. This year this means Peter Gilmore is in the makeshift kitchen busily preparing a dish mysteriously called “Borshke Meats Faberge”.

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

Gennadi Dubinksy

But first things first, because it is an Opera Australia fund raiser  to raise money for the Moffatt Oxenbould Young Artist Program and no doubt most of the people here are opera enthusiasts, we are treated to three solo performances accompanied on the piano. First up is baritone Gennadi Dubinsky who takes to the stage and sings Mephistopheles’ Song of the Flea by Mussorgsky.

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

John Longmuir

Then tenor John Longmuir emerges from another corner and makes his way around the room singing Ecco Ridente in Cielo from The Barber of Seville by Rossini. And then last is soprano Nicole Car who sings Mi Chiamano Mimi from La Bohème by Puccini and gives everyone goosebumps with her other worldly trills. At 25 years old she is one of Opera Australia’s youngest sopranos.

Nicole Car

opera dinner peter gilmore quay

Broshke Meat Faberge. beetroot, smoked eel egg served with 2010 Howard Park Great Southern Riesling

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Eggy Crumpets & Bacon

eggy crumpets bacon

I have a confession to make to you Dear Reader. You may not believe me but it’s true.

I don’t have that much of a sweet tooth.

Oh yes I know, the sugary confections that grace every page of this blog would certainly lead you to believe that I go for sweet over savoury but that is not really the case. That doesn’t mean of course that I won’t sulk when I don’t get dessert or that I won’t clap and giggle when a beautiful cake is laid before me. And if you take the dessert away too soon I may growl at you and hiss. But I always go for savoury rather than sweet to eat. Sweet is for looking at, for appreciating, for taking a dainty mouthful of but savoury is what I eat most often.

Like Easter buns that come out for Easter I start putting crumpets in my shopping trolley around Winter time. I bought packets as there was some sort of discount on buying two packs and then almost forgot about them when I went away traipsing around the country. I came back to some less fresh crumpets and eggs that needed using. Luckily I had just gone out with Queen Viv that afternoon for lunch at Clipper Cafe where we had both honed in on one dish: eggy crumpets and bacon.

embroidery cookie recipe

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Al Fresco Cooking, The Long Apron & the Sunshine Coast Luxury Food Trail

sunshine coast food

How does that real estate mantra go? Location, location, location? When I see where my behind is located, on top of a rainforest drenched hill with rain pitter pattering on the roof and an outdoor pavilion decked out with modern equipment, tables groaning with fresh figs, strawberries, sobrassado and tartuffo truffle sausage, I’m glad that my location is right here.

sunshine coast food

I’m at the Freestyle Escape farm kitchen, a two hour drive from Brisbane on the Sunshine coast (except the Sunshine Coast weather forgot to read their brief today and have given us buckets of rain). We’ve gone past landmarks such as the big pineapple, an igloo and other esoteric directions furnished to us by dessert king chef Martin Duncan who owns Freestyle Escapes. They hold cooking and art classes and team bonding experiences all in the comfort of this stunning location.

sunshine coast food

Martin Duncan

Today however we are lucky enough to be taught jam and relish making by local Sunshine coast chef (but Leichhardt Sydney born) Jamie Milverton who markets his jams under the brand Jamie’s Gourmet. He is a chef of 18 years experience and he holds classes where he turns up at someone’s home and shows them and their friends how to cook. The Masterchef home dining phenomenon means that a class like that (at $75 per person) sells like hot…jam?

sunshine coast food

We are greeted by fresh coffee, tea and scones and thick whipped cream and Jamie’s own rain berry (lilipilli), cherry and strawberry jam which has a nice contrast of sweetness levels-slightly tart from the rain berries, medium sweetness from the cherries and luscious sweetness from the strawberries.

sunshine coast food

Jamie Milverton

For this class he uses modifications of his mother’s traditional recipes-and his mum is not your regular mum. She has been awarded gold medals for 10 years in a row at the Rockhampton show for her jam making efforts. We’re going to make and be furnished with the recipe for a tomato relish and a fig, strawberry, rhubarb and orange jam. Not only that but we’re also going to make pizza in their wood fired oven affectionately called Myrtle the Turtle (you can see why she has that name right?).  Jamie shows us a container of curry powder that he made only this morning and it smells incredible-like a regular curry powder has suddenly woken up and started dancing.

But as for me I’m starving and it’s only 10am and I wander over to try some of the sausages being sliced. “Taurean!” Martin pronounces as I sample a bit of this and that and it’s true, you keep a Taurean happy by feeding them and not making them “rough it”. We’re simple creatures really.

sunshine coast food

We split into two teams and start chopping up our tomatoes and onions for the relish. Next we chop the figs roughly and remove the calyx from the strawberry and then slice these in quarters for the jam. He tells us that apples contain the most pectin and that by simply using the apple skin placed in muslin and cooking that with your jam, it will set. He recommends using the Maslin pans for preserving as they have a measure inside the pot so you know exactly how many preserving jams you will need and because they are sturdy and have a handle to help with pouring and carrying.

sunshine coast food

Another tip that Jamie tells us if that you can test for the pectin content before any sugar is added to the cooked fruit by taking 1 teaspoon of juice from the fruit and putting it into a  glass and leaving it to cool. Add 3 teaspoons of methylated spirits and stir. If a large clot forms in the juice, adequate pectin has been extracted from the fruit and the sugar may be added. If there is medium amount of pectin, several small clots will form but if there is very little pectin, it will break into small pieces and you will need to add additional pectin. And don’t drink it whatever you do!

sunshine coast food

sunshine coast food

For this tomato relish we will use tapioca flour to thicken it instead of cornflour which can make it cloudy whereas tapioca flour will leave it with a glossy sheen. I’m hungry (what’s new) but before we can eat lunch, we have to do some foraging. Martin and his guests which include chef Katrina from the Spirit House are all passionate supporters of local food and slow food. In fact there is a slow food festival happening on the 10th and 11th of September this year.

sunshine coast food

Finger limes

We go up into the hills and see Martin’s kitchen garden which is sprawled across the hills with 250 trees dotted across the orchard. There are fabulous things such as finger limes, carambola, lychee, bay tree, tamarind, rose apple and feijoa growing here among others.

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Kaffir lime tree

I’m tasked with picking some finger limes which are that amazing indigenous fruit that are long slender finger shaped fruit filled with  little caviar like type of beads of fruit that pop in the mouth. It makes for an incredible fruit curd although the branches are a bit spiky it has to be said! We also pick some wasabi parsley which has the briefest kiss of wasabi before it disappears on the tongue.

Wasabi parsley

sunshine coast food

sunshine coast food

sunshine coast food

We can’t leave before poking our head into the accommodation on the hill. There are two places to stay in, an artist’s cottage as well as another cottage but this has guests in it so we take a peek at the artist’s cottage. In the bedroom there are two easels on which you can draw and the cupboard is stocked with painting supplies. And there is an outdoor bath situated a few steps below out in the open so it’s a perfect honeymoon destination-or second honeymoon hint hint Mr NQN! ;)

sunshine coast food

Myrtle the turtle

sunshine coast food

The Long Apron’s chef Cameron Matthew

sunshine coast food

My pizza

Enough of this fantasising! We have to make lunch. Myrtle is fired up and  it takes a mere 2-3 minutes to cook a pizza in her. We are provided with dough by the Spicers Clovelly chef Cameron Matthew (where we are staying and dining tonight) and we stretch it out. I’m doing mine with a thinner centre and thicker edge. I top it with my favourite toppings of sobrassada, tartuffo, bocconcini and sun dried tomatoes. Tom slides this onto the paddle and voila! Two minutes later I have my very own pizza in all of its char grilled glory. It makes you want to build a myrtle of your own.

sunshine coast food

Tom aka Morty attending to the oven

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Win A Cooking Class For Two At Millfield Hall, Hunter Valley!

Mr NQN and I always try and find things to do that both of us like. This is hard as he loves sport and I don’t care a jot for it and I like cooking and he likes eating. But wait… there is something for both of us to do-cooking classes! And even a kitchen novice like Mr NQN loves learning how to cook new dishes-even his mother can’t believe it ;)

Just 2 hours’ drive north of Sydney in the Hunter Valley wine region, Millfield Hall is a historic community hall on the original convict trail. Lovingly restored as a family home the Provincial-style kitchen and living space is the heart of the hall and the huge covered deck overlooking the valley is the venue for year-round classes. From regional French and Tuscan cooking, to pizza making in the wood-fired oven, their classes are for anyone who wants to learn more about food and some great recipes that can make at home.

Upcoming classes will feature local Nulkaba ducks with confit legs and pan seared breast with a raspberry sauce; lamb shanks in roasted tomato and red wine with brussell sprouts and pancetta; ravioli pockets stuffed with rocket and pine nuts, potatoes dauphinois and green beans with almonds. Along with the 4 hour lesson from one of their range of chefs there is also an optional 1 hour specialist tuition from local providores and foodies and of course the 4 course feast that you’ve prepared along with a matching glass of wine with your meal and a complimentary apron. Doesn’t that make you hungry already?

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