The menu reads: “hemingway’s manly is a small bar and casual dining spot with it’s tongue planted firmly in your cheek… He (chef Ben Pichon) wishes to acknowledge his influences: the colonel, mr. mcdonald, school canteens, ikea hot dogs & carnivals across the globe.”
If there’s one thing I appreciate in any human being it’s a sense of humour. I just cannot bond with you unless you have one. So when I read the above line about the chef’s influences at Hemingway’s in Manly I was tickled pink and had to laugh. It also made me settle right in.
It’s a menu housed in a book, a volume of “Collier’s Junior Classic: Harvest of Holidays” to be exact. The liquor and food are earmarked and the pages feature a neat selection of eight entrees, seven mains and three desserts. There are spins on childhood classics such as “chip degustation”, “2 minute noodles” and “pb &j”. Cocktails features Cottee’s lime cordial and aeroplane jelly and there are drinks from Passion Pop to “rap-video-level champagne” while bar snacks include chip buttys.
Open for eight weeks already Hemingway sits right on the beach facing the water so it’s at a scenic location. Downstairs is the bar which is already abuzz at 7pm on a Saturday night. Upstairs is the restaurant, still noisy, where Louise and Viggo are waiting for us. There’s a warm, homey and quirky atmosphere and black and white pictures of Ernest Hemingway line the walls including a picture of him and his cats. And why Hemingway’s? Did Ernest Hemingway have a bent towards Antipodean childhood food? No, it’s because the three owners admire Hemingway’s lifestyle-he drank, he loved women, he survived two plane crashes and he was a very masculine sort of guy.
‘c o r n ’ charred sweet corn cob, lime butter & manchego cheese $6
We enjoy dining out with Louise and Viggo because they are also of the same thinking-try as much as possible and share. So we go a little wild with the dishes which the waitress explains are meant to be playful and shared. The kitchen is very organised and all of our entrees come within a few minutes of each other. The corn comes as two corn cobettes blanketed with tangy, rich manchego cheese and rolled all over with a delectable lime butter. The corn has just the right amount of char and yet the kernels are still plump and soft and the manchego cheese and lime butter give it a tangyness to offset the sweetness of the corn. If you are a corn freak like I am, order one plate for yourself because it will hurt giving your other half the remainder.
‘c h i p s ’ daily chip degustation, matching sauces $12
How could anyone resist the chip degustation and from watching the other tables, it looks like this is a popular order. Here there are three types of chips (which can change daily) paired with three types of sauces. Today the chips are potato chips, sweet potato chips and onion rings and the three sauces are a tomato & date, home made ranch and a home made bbq sauce. The potato chips that come in a cup are home made and more of a softer wedge variety and aren’t super crisp although they aren’t bad, the sweet potato chips have some soft edges but the onion rings are juuust right. The three sauces are excellent and cover the spectrum of tastes and it’s hard to choose a favourite although the garlicky ranch dressing is a favourite as is the bbq. Louise and Viggo note that the sauces have improved from their first visit here when it first opened.
‘ s c h o o l’ crispy school prawns, green tea salt, citrus mayo $9
I make fast work of the school prawns which come well seasoned, fried and crispy. They’re moreish little buggers and I like the slightly different green tea salt and citrus mayonnaise on the side.
‘ t i n n e d f i s h ’ salmon ceviche, angostura bitters, avocado $12
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