Rene Rezdepi: the “world’s best chef”
The man to my left getting snapped talking to people looks tired, very tried but deep in concentration when he speaks. He’s smaller than I imagined and some around me are whispering how different he looks with his beard. He is wearing a jacket, a linen shirt untucked and exposing dark chest hair, jeans and sneakers. Rene Redzepi is the chef at the best restaurant in the world Noma, in Copenhagen.
I count at least four newsreaders and there is the Masterchef alumni Matt Preston, Gary Mehigan and George Calombaris there for good measure too. I see many of the editors of food magazines and newspapers-there are at least three tables of media there. Yet this is not just an industry event because 140 diners have paid $395 for the privilege of dining with and listening to the world’s best chef speak. They’re Qantas frequent flyers-Rockpool’s Neil Perry is a Qantas ambassador and this is the inaugural event for the launch of “epiQure” the new Qantas food and wine online community. Apart from being able to buy wine with free delivery and earn 3 points per dollar spent they also get access to events like this. Marco Pierre White was also rumoured to be coming although we are told that he wasn’t able to come.
Neil Perry and Rene Redzepi
Matt Preston is standing on the illuminated stage and a large spotlight casts on him and he introduces everyone to the proceedings of the night. The menu tonight is mostly made up of dishes served here at Rockpool Bar & Grill.
Baby beetroot salad roasted, helly, raw with barrel aged feta dressing served with 2010 Penfolds Autumn Riesling and 2005 Penfolds Bin Aged Released Riesling
There is a flurry of efficient waitstaff and before we know it, we have our first course. This was such a pretty dish with beetroot done three ways with a creamy rich aged feta dressing. Simple but effective and the sweet beetroot contrasted well with the occasional burst of richness from the cheese.
Blue fin tuna tartare, Moroccan eggplant, cumin mayonnaise and harissa served with 2010 Penfolds Bin 311 Chardonnay and 2007 Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay
This dish was s surprise in that we usually see tuna tartare with Asian herbs and spices. This was most definitely Moroccan themed and worked beautifully the creamy textured tuna cubes were sublimely soft and sat on a bed of Moroccan spiced softer than soft eggplant. There was a small dollop of cumin mayonnaise and harissa to also bring home the Moroccan theme. This was a dish that stirred a lot of controversy for one guest who was angry about using blue fin tuna given that the restaurant is one that is conscious of sustainability issues. Neil gets up and explains that he uses sustainably farmed Southern Blue Fin tuna.
Rich and noble prawn congee, star anise scented peanuts, Chinese fried bread and chilli oil served with 2010 Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir and 2008 Penfolds Cellar Release Tempranillo
Still standing on the stage, with a tea towel tucked in the back of his apron, Neil explains that the congee that we are about to eat is a “rich and noble congee”. Traditionally congee is made with leftover rice to stretch it out but this one isn’t and it would be closer to what the aristocracy would eat. The prawns are served whole and tail-less and are beautifully succulent and sit on a shallow layer of twice cooked rice porridge. The is crunch and chew value from the crunchy star anise scented peanuts and little cubes of Chinese fried bread and a drizzle of chilli oil comes to the fore right at the end deep in the throat and mouth.
Rene Redzepi and Matt Preston
Before the next savoury course comes out Matt Preston and Rene Redzepi take to the stage where Matt interviews Rene. Rene speaks with a very light Danish accent and his English is excellent. He is modest when asked about winning the best restaurant accolade and says that in reality the best restaurant cannot exist and compares it to everyone choosing the best colour-an impossible feat. He talks about Denmark traditionally not having a rich culinary culture for fine dining partly due to their mostly Protestant upbringing and history. He cites the film Babette’s Feast as an example of how people used to eat in silence and have one meal, one dish and look at food as fuel for the body.
Matt asks him how did he start redefining fine dining? He started really exploring other exciting cuisines like French and Spanish cuisine. Eight years ago he thought “Let’s start using products from the region.” Whilst it is simple to put Danish ingredients into existing recipes it doesn’t change the recipe. An example he uses is that of using Danish sugar in a creme brulee. That in itself doesn’t make it a Danish creme brulee. Instead he wanted to put things on a plate that reflects where you are. It’s the “time and place” for which he is known.
Matt asks him how one can achieve time and place and Rene answers that it is a complex question “I don’t know how to answer” he says, possibly the effects of being tired not helping. He suggests looking back in time-anything from 150-800 years back in time. For us in Australia, to look that far “it’s a whole different story.” He tells us that there is no such thing as the best ingredients, you can cook anywhere. ”Good food can happen anywhere. If it happens in Copenhagen it can happen anywhere. It’s a great inspiration.”
And the last question, what are the top five food experiences around the world that Rene can recommend?
1. Chateaubriand. a bistro in Paris that is impossible to get into “and would probably reject you”. He quotes Alain Ducasse who says that food should be a reflection of society and this place is an example of this. It isn’t traditional bistro food but “modern, innovative, unpretentious and full of life.” and is also inexpensive.
2 & 3. San Sebastian as a destination-he cites Mugaritz and Extebarri as two restaurants.
4. Faviken in Northern Sweden is “Like steeping into a fairy tale of Hans Christian Anderson.” He describes the chef as like a smurf exploring every mushroom and animal. He considers it “astonishing, genuine and full of life.”
4. Ubuntu in Napa Valley which is a vegetable restaurant. Rather than seeing vegetables as garnish there they see them “as a lead guitarist… It’s genuine with fantastic food.”
Wood Fire roasted Burrawong chicken with baby carrots and pea sauce served with 2008 Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz Cabernet, 2007 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz and 2008 Penfolds RWT Shiraz
The burrawong chicken breast was wonderfully tender and it comes with an assortment of heirloom carrots and a creamy, smooth pea sauce. And the wine lovers here must have been in heaven with this selection of Penfolds wines, two for each savoury course but three wines for this chicken course!
Slow cooked David Blackmore Wagyu short rib, charred with red braised shiitake mushrooms, yam and ginger puree served wtih 2001 Penfolds Grange and 2004 Penfolds Grange
“Do you want yours? Because I want yours” I say to Mr NQN. He gives me a look and then moves his plate away from my insistent hands. The David Blackmore wagyu short rib is an example of wonderfully melty wagyu. In fact I think this cut and treatment best exemplifies the properties of wagyu with the rippled fat and wonderfully soft, melty texture. And like the Moroccan treatment of the blue fun tuna, there is an Asian influence to this dish which you don’t see that often with beef. The aroma of star anise hits our noses and then the smooth ginger infused yam puree and slippery braised shiitake mushrooms all combine to make this a dish that is worth pinching from someone else. But Mr NQN put up a hand and blocked off any attempts to pilfer a piece. And these were both matched with bottles of Penfolds Grange, one 2001 and one 2004-the 2004 is particularly good. Oh yes the wine lovers were rejoicing that night…
The story of David Blackmore who produces the 100% Japanese wagyu at his Victorian farm is an interesting one. He holds the exclusive rights to full blood Japanese wagyu in Australia known as Japanese Fullblood and are known as the only cattle containing no contamination of inferior genes.
Steve Lienert, senior wine maker at Penfolds
Sharpe family strawberry mascarpone cake served with NV Penfolds Grandfather Tawny
We were curious to ask what the Sharpe Family referred to-the strawberries or the cake recipe. It turns out that the Sharpe family are the strawberry growers in Brisbane who make these strawberries. It is a sweet, light mascarpone cake topped with dehydrated strawberry flakes and filled with mascarpone and diced strawberries. A light, fruity and creamy end to the night. Neil comes around to say hello to guests and shake hands. He’s very friendly and personable and sits down for a chat and answers some questions from our fellow table mate David from Australian Business Traveller.
Oh and I left one last answer from Rene until the very end. What is next for Rene Redzepi and Noma? He says that they will simply be doing the same for the next five years. For all of the fame and accolades he still considers his restaurant an infant. He wants to keep exploring regions like treasure hunters picking up coins and jewels. He tells us of finding a native plant which tastes like coriander. To the Danish, coriander is considered quite exotic yet they’ve got a native plant that tastes just like it. He marvels and comments that have they been so blind to this and wonders what else is to be discovered.
“Is there such a thing as perfection?” Matt asks. Rene answers no. Thomas Keller told him that perfection doesn’t exist. To Rene the process is interesting and if you reach the end (perfection) then the end is boring. There is nothing perfect. “Nourishment is really as close to perfection as you can get.”
So tell me Dear Reader, what’s a place in the world that you can recommend to eat at? And where do you want to eat in the world?
NQN and Mr NQN dined as a guest of epiQure.
Rockpool Bar & Grill
66 Hunter Street, Sydney NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 8078 1900
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44 Comments | Add your own
You always take great quality pictures of the food! It makes me drool
I recommend you eat in Sarawak, Malaysia and have their famous kolo mee! It’s to die for and you can only get it in that part of Malaysia!
I have always wanted to eat at one of Gordon Ramsy’s restaurants!
OMG, You are so lucky, Now I am jealous, what a great experience. The thrill of the grill and everything in between
HONG KONG
Wow, delightful!
A great insight into the evening, thanks Lorraine. I’m very happy to eat just about anywhere in the world. In particular, I’m looking forward to a trip to Canada early next year to see what they have to offer.
Wow, that cake looks amazing! So does everything else but that cake!!! I had wanted to go so am glad I got to read this post, almost as good as being there
Great post! My favourite of the night was definitely the spiciness of the Congee matched with the Penfolds Tempranillo, wow! I now want to try all of Rene’s dining suggestions especially Mugaritz and Extebarri…
I love his quote comparing the best restaurant to the best colour! I totally agree. I’m partial to some male facial hair too
I love the Noma story, and that Rene is so passionate about his approach…
What a fab dinner!
I liked your round up of the evening. It rang very true and thank you for obtaining the names of the restaurants. I was not able to understand him for some of them.
Beautiful dishes here! The tuna tartare is very intriguing with Moroccan flavors.
What a wonderful night! I remember seeing Noma, and Rene Redzepi on the British Masterchef a few years ago and I was taken by how genuine he was and how respectful he was to food. You can truly see and feel his passion. It would certainly be an amazing experience eating at Noma.
The place I would recommend is Daniel Boulud’s restaurant Daniel in New York. Quite simply the best meal of my life and I’m already planning a return visit when we go back to New York for our honeymoon.
What a wonderful evening indeed!
What I would have given to be seated at one of those tables. The food, atmosphere and Rene Redzepi, a Foodie’s heaven.
I would love to be travelling all around the world and eating at the very best but not necessarily the most expensive restaurants!
So seriously envious. Must have been truly amazing. Thank you as always for sharing with those of us who can’t attend such wonderful events. Wonderfully reported as always. Well done NQN.
—-Ahhhhhh, the life of a food star. I love stalking you, L.
I like R. description of this restaruant….“Like stepping into a fairy tale of Hans Christian Anderson. He describes the chef as like a smurf exploring every mushroom and animal.”
xx Kiss for you.
Rene Redzepi and Neil Perry – what an interesting marriage for the night! Love the look and balance of the food, but absolutely understand Chef Redzepi being dead on his feet. I know he is extraordinarily talented – from the few times I have heard him speak, he also seems a thoroughly decent guy. Have already bothered the readers with my somewhat outdated recommendations – where to eat myself: somewhat unoriginally I actually would love to dine at NOMA and see why the world is so in love with the place: oh, have always been in love with Denmark!!
!
Looks like a fun event! The beetroot salad sounds devine. Hmm, I would love to eat almost anywhere in New York – the street food looks amazing, as does the fine dining restaurants.
Lorraine, I enjoyed this read and could kick myself for being in Napa the last two years, and right there close to Ubuntu and not going although I remember it being recommended.
Rene Redzepi is not half bad looking huh! A good looking man who can cook, ahem not just CAN COOK but a good looking man who’s the best chef in the world. What a catch!
OMG!!! You have the best job in the world. I’m jealous, sooooo jealous. I love that you shared with us this experience. Neil is a champion, and Rene is a spunk.
I totally recommend dining at Rubicon in Canberra, and I’m dying to dine at my besties restaurant in London. 
I’ve learned my lesson to always eat before I read your posts! I can smell the food just looking at the pics
I’d love to be adopted by a Tuscan family and eat a Sunday lunch with them
Oh Lorraine! What an amazing experience to try the food of this Dutch lad! Mr Perry ofcourse did a wonderful job of executing the dishes.
I wish he had the time to travel to each state and do a class specifically for chefs,I would love to see him in action,talking,engaging our eagerness to learn.
I cant say that I have ever eaten at a restaurant that I could single out as a destination. One day I would love to experience the food at Joel Rouberchon , or Anton Mossimon,dessert at Pierre Hermes…
Thank you for sharing the magic with us!!It feels like gold dust sprinkled all over!
dying to go to the rockpool, everything looks sophisticated and lovely!
What an interesting evening getting into the mind of a chef of that callibre.
I have always wanted to eat at everyday peoples homes around the world. I don’t think Australian cuisine can be just defined as Kangaroo, Seafood and bushfoods, and I think we all have preconceptions of other cuisines as well. I would like to eat in context- a cheap bowl of pho at the wet markets in Vietnam would be much more evocative than a bowl here at a restaurant even if all the ingredients here were top quality and organic and 100x more expensive.
But if I was offered a seat at Noma I wouldn’t knock it back either!
What interesting discussions – and, paired with such exquisite-looking dishes – it must have been quite an experience!
Hi,
Question completely unrelated to the post
I’m heading to Sydney in about 2 months from Auckland (have been numerous times before, but never paid much attention to the food scene)… what would you suggest as say,t he top 5 ‘don’t miss out on’ places to eat in and close to the city?
I’d really appreciate your thoughts!! I’ve read about so many great places on your blog, and would love to try somewhere that comes recommended.
Thanks,
Cate
Great post Lorraine. The congee looks delicious, nothing like the plain congee we would eat for breakfast growing up! I would love to eat at any of the reataurants in San Sebastian as I’ve heard so many wonderful things. A place that I can recommend is the Blue Water Cafe in Vancouver, we loved our meal there.
Oh golly, Rene Redzepi truly is attractive. I do so love a man with a bear. You slipped him my number right, Lorraine? Right?
P.S. How did that diner make a fuss about the tuna? Did he actually stand up and start ranting?!
I think my first trip to Thailand in my early 20s really awakened my tastebuds.
Later, Turkey and Portugal were fantastic.
But Australia is great too, especially the fusion-style restaurants.
He sounds like a great chef!
What a privilege to be part of, he seems very humble.
You know, having travelled quite a bit, the one place that I would always go back to and crave for more food are the hawker stalls in Malaysia. Maybe because I grew up with it?
I love how you wanted to attack/steal Mr NQN’s food! That’s what I do!! Hahahaha
I think that’s thrilling to meet Redzepi… he is really quite an amazing character. I would imagine he would be quiet and unassuming and yet passionate. The dinner looks pretty spectacular. For me the shrimp and tuna dishes looked the most fab. Great reporting, Lorraine!
Great post! Sounds like a great evening. What a thrill. Rene came across on the Aussie Masterchef as extremely passionate. Think it’s time you go to Noma and do a post for us!
Wow, what a night, Lorraine! It looks like so much fun and that meal is stunning. The tuna tartare with Moroccan eggplant sounds fantastic!
My new favorite place to eat is K Paul in New Orleans…
So, after all this time of reading about the lovely places you go, I think I can actually try something from your lovely blog! I can (and will) try Ubuntu in Napa Valley. I get to Napa quite a bit!
BTW, I adore Penfolds….
xxoo,
RMW
What a another amazing experience!
Such a great experience
the man is a genius! Lol @ Mr NQN slowly moving his plate away from your grasp 
Wow – what a brilliant experience and pleasure to meet Rene whilst dining at Rockpool. What delightful fare and thanks for sharing your gorgeous photos. I used to love Bennelong at the Opera House when we lived in Sydney – the first place I ever tried venison and fell in love with this gorgeous, lean offering. Noma would be an absolutely awesome dining experience x=x
The whole night looked amazing from beginning till end. What an amazing experience it must have been. Happy for you! =)
I love Rene Redzepi! He was so lovely and humble when he came onto MasterChef. I think I’d like to try out his 5 suggestions for sure. The veggie restaurant in the Napa Valley sounds great. I always love eating in Thailand, can’t get enough banana pancakes! New York was also pretty amazing.
so nice that u got to meet Rene Redzepi!!! sadly the snowman wasn’t on the menu >.<
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