Dear Readers, just one quick announcement before starting today’s story! Next week from Tuesday the 5th of June to Friday the 8th of June, I will be touring Queensland with the Queensland Writer’s Centre showing people how to translate food into words and how to blog with their creative food-writing workshops!
The tour schedule is as follows:
Ingham – 10.00am, Tuesday 5 June at Ingham Library, 73-75 McIllwraith Street, Ingham
Bowen – 10.00am, Wednesday 6 June at Bowen Library, Herbert Street, Bowen
Charters Towers – 12.00pm, Thursday 7 June at Charters Towers Excelsior Library, 130 Gill Street,
Charters Towers
Ayr – 10.30am, Friday 8 June at Ayr Library, 108 Graham Street, Ayr
I’d love to see you there so please feel free to sign up! See more on: http://foodtales.slq.qld.gov.au/
Lorraine
xxx
And now…back to the story!
Middleton
Setting off from Goolwa at about 10:30am, with our roadie box of lovely snacks from Juliet at The Australasian in tow, Mr NQN and I have on stop in mind: Kangaroo Island, population 4,500 people (and apparently 1 person per thousand sheep!).
Packing our bags into the Audi convertible we stop by cute little seaside towns like Middleton and Port Elliot which we had to really stop at because of the name! 
Sadly there wasn’t quite enough time to stop by the Flying Fish Cafe which is supposed to be great but we had the Kangaroo Island ferry to catch and if we missed that, then we would be in trouble!
Port Elliot Beach
The ferry from Cape Jervis to Kangaroo Island leaves every hour and you need to book ahead, particularly if you’re driving a car on board. The tariff isn’t cheap, it’s $400 per car with two people for a return trip. To use the ferry, the driver drives the car onto the ship and the passenger takes another ticket and walks on board using another entrance. The trip takes 45 minutes total and there are various snacks to eat on board of the sausage roll and pie and bun variety as well as chips and chocolate.
We will lay our head for the night at the legendary Southern Ocean Lodge. A bucket list item for me, I had seen the famous photo of the lodge and like Liz Lemon I said silently to myself “I want to go to there” and pointed at the photo. Years later we find ourselves driving up the dirt road (in my experience the longer the driveway the more spectacular the end will be ) kicking up dirt and making sure the convertible top was up.
We arrive at the lodge where staff are waiting for us and somehow, somewhere our bags are whisked off to our rooms and we are ushered into the “Great Room” which is the breathtaking lobby where we all proceed to pick up our jaws from the floor and use them to help sip a glass of bubbly while waiting. There is a suspended fireplace to warm you during winter (although the weather currently is absolutely perfect and we couldn’t have asked for better) and an array of comfortable looking lounges and chairs to choose from. There are recycled timbers and white limestone floors and outside there is an infinity pool.
The “Great Room” – amen to that!
There are 21 rooms at Southern Ocean Lodge and they’re all facing the ocean. The tariff includes all meals, mini bars and selected experiences. You can help yourself to drinks and the bar and mix up your own cocktail or pour your own wine (from an excellent selection) or have them pour it for you. Owned by the Bailie family, they bought it from the previous owner who sold it to them on the proviso that the land was to be used.
Looking back onto Southern Ocean Lodge
In the contract, he stipulated that if the land wasn’t developed over the next 10 years, he was able to buy it back from them at the price at which he sold it. They developed it to the lodge it is today with South Australian architect Max Pritchard and the brief was to have as little visual impact as possible so the lodge is completely unseen from the road. They have only developed 1% of the land and have donated the rest to the National parks who look after it.
When I filled in the form for our room, I saw the magic words “Osprey Pavilion” but I didn’t dare get too excited just in case. You see when I had stalked the lodge the pictures most seen are from the Osprey Pavilion (and this is the first shot in the longer version of the Kangaroo Island ad with music by Eddie Vedder-swoon!). But I didn’t hold much hope for getting the Osprey Pavilion because I knew that there was only one room like that and that it was $3,800 a night for two people.
“Your room is right at the end” Alison says to us and my eyes widen. We would be staying in the Osprey Pavilion! Now are you as curious as I was to see what a $3,800 suite looks like? Well, come along with me!
The Osprey Pavilion’s place as the last room at the end of the lodge means that this has the most spectacular views of the coastal panorama. Measuring at over 120 m2, the unique curved sunken lounge has a built in Ecosmart fireplace in the coffee table where naked flames create warmth and ambience while dancing in front of the pristine ocean view. The lounges are soft and comfortable and there are all sorts of interesting books to read including a book on all of the shipwrecks off Kangaroo Island (all of the rooms are named after Kangaroo Island shipwrecks).
View of the surf
You have your own Vaio computer and internet to use, a plate of four fresh, fluffy lamingtons sit waiting plus there is a fully stocked complimentary mini bar which is full of a range of South Australian and K.I. products. All of the water on the property is rainwater. There is also a Bose sound system that extends to the whole pavilion with three remotes for control.
And that’s just one room…
It looks out onto a balcony with our own private plunge pool and spa on a private terrace-there are three suites that have these at Southern Ocean Lodge.
The bedroom
The king bedroom is spacious with smooth sheets with quality thread counts and goose down fluffy pillows (non allergenic wool ones are also offered) and things are logically designed -an example is easy access power points next to the bed-a small thing but oh so practical! The walk in robe is generously sized and this is where we find our luggage and two very covetable robes which I immediately want to purchase as well as a multitude of hangers for a celebrity sized wardrobe (and the official stance on celebrities? A very discreet with a “we don’t have any celebrities staying here” although we know that they do!
Private spa overlooking the view
I’m a bit obsessed with bathrooms as I love baths and showers and this one’s a beauty. I caught sight of her from the lounge room, well actually I first saw the stone egg shaped bath and the view of green forest as far as the eye could see (as well as their resident wallaby family). On the side of the tub are containers of mineral salts, bath crystals and lavender bath milk. The two person shower is next to this where there are two shower heads per person with a total of two regular massage shower heads and two monsoon shower heads on top.
There are double sinks and clever brushed stainless steel dispensers that contain their own brand of hand wash and body lotion which is silky and moisturising and in cold weather, heated limestone floors warm cold tootsies. And it is then that we decide that we just can’t leave and have to sit and absorb the room. I’m a complete hotel room freak and I adore exploring hotel rooms with zeal!
A shower and some quick changing is necessary (the ylang ylang conditioner and lemongrass and mandarin body lotion are particularly good) and we join everyone for dinner in the restaurant which is next to the lobby of the lodge. Included in the rate is a four course dinner with matching wine and the chef Tim Bourke is formerly of Jasper’s in Hunter’s Hill. Service is deferential and friendly. The white wine served is a False Cape “Silver Mermaid” Sauvignon Blanc from Kangaroo Island 2010, the red is a Tscharke “Only Son” Tempranillo from the Barossa Valley 2010 and the dessert wine is a Bethany Late Harvest Riesling from Barossa 2007.
Locally caught mulloway “pancetta”, black pepper, lemon, local olive oil
99.9% of the food and beverages are local to Kangaroo Island or South Australia, the only exception being the bottled sparkling mineral water and branded spirits. The produce featured on the menu highlights their surrounding producers as much as possible and a list of the main suppliers sits opposite the daily changing menu. The locally caught mulloway is a lovely, silky textured fish, more like a sashimi than a dried pancetta (I wasn’t sure what to expect) and it is highlighted and perfectly seasoned with salt, black pepper, chives, lemon and a local olive oil said to be from ancient wild olive groves on the island.
Agnolotti of whipped goat’s cheese, almonds, brown butter, caper raisin puree
The agnolotti, house made silky pasta filled with light, whipped goat’s cheese, nubbly almonds and a sweet raisin puree in judicious amount finished with brown butter is superb. The nuttiness of the butter is enhanced by the other ingredients and I’m glad I still had some roll left for the butter! 
Steamed locally farmed marron tail, marron cream, red leaves and vegetables, grapes
This plate, so pretty in execution, is last meal material. Now I’m not a huge raddichio person but it’s sweet here and perfectly balanced with the marron oil infused cream, tender marron meat, pickled red onion and halved grapes.
Pan roasted fillet of farmed murray cod, char grilled leek, parmesan gnocchi, cauliflower
Another last meal dish is the pan roasted fillet of murray cod, so soft and delicate. It is paired with a char grilled fleshy white leek which is soft, savoury and aromatic, small mouthfuls of parmesan gnocchi and a smooth cauliflower puree. Everything is so perfectly balanced you really don’t want this dish to end.
Confit belly of Feurlieu Berkshire pork, roasted fillet, crispy cheek, wild fennel, apple, parsnip
Although I love pork belly, this was good but we definitely preferred the fish over it. There were two small medallions of soft roasted fillet, a rectangle of confit pork belly which was two mouthfuls of bliss with its crunchy top, a breaded crispy cheek for contrast and some wild fennel, apple and parsnip and a black pudding crumbs.
Lemon thyme cream cigar, green apple sorbet, lemon thyme crumble
The lemon thyme cream cigar had a thin, crispy pastry shell that reminded me of nutty, buttery baklava and a lemon thyme. The green apple sorbet was puckeringly tart and refreshing and the lemon thyme crumble was buttery like lemon accented shortbread with little flecks of green lemon thyme leaves.
Four cheeses
I try a little of the four cheeses, an Udder Delights “Adelaide hills” camembert, an Island Pure “Cygnet”, and there are also two Woodside Cheese Wright’s cheeses, an “edith’s” cheese and a “pompeii. All four have a good range of textures and flavours.
As much as we enjoy the company, I am just dreaming of the egg bath and can’t wait to get back to the room to relax. When we return to our room, turn down has been performed and the fire in the centre of the coffee table has been lit, their signature essential oil is burning and there a jar of Kangaroo Island ligurian bee honey on the bed. I choose the lavender milk bath and soak away before collapsing into bed.
The next morning I awoke to the sound of the electric blinds being pulled up. Mr NQN had set the alarm early to take photos of the sunrise and take a walk. I must admit that I went straight back to sleep thinking that I would take a walk with him in “spirit” and that he should have a great time without me!
Breakfast at the lodge is from 8am-10am so around 9:30 we make our way to the restaurant. There is a wide selection of bread and baked goods, about ten varieties in total as well as a selection of jams including native Muntrie berries which are quite tart and native current jam (divine!) as well as Kangaroo Island honey in stringybark and cap gum.
Other menu items are ordered a la carte and the first “course” are various types of mueslis and the second course is made up of classics like big breakfasts or more interesting offering like a fine herb omelette or a smoked salmon plate which I chose because the smoked salmon is smoked here and they featured a soft boiled Kangaroo Island egg.
We check out of our room and if you ever stay in the Osprey Pavilion you will probably find my nail marks from being dragged out of there most reluctantly by Mr NQN (along with similar marks from other guests I suspect). We do some work in the lobby and help ourselves to refreshments. The only less than stellar moment of the stay is when I accidentally pick up a sandwich from a plate next to the drinks at the bar (there are nibblies offered and I assumed that this was for everyone) only to be brusquely tut tutted by a staff member who says loudly “They’re not for you, they’re for guests!!” making me feel about 5 years old, especially when everyone turns around.
Lunchtime rolls around and we have our last meal at Southern Ocean Lodge. It affords us a bit of time to look around the lobby area with a striking curved limestone wall that took Kangaroo Island resident stone mason Scott Wilson one year to complete. There are also stunning leaf mandalas by Janine Mackintosh each leaf painstakingly sewn onto the canvas.
Frisee aux lardon, poached Kangaroo Island Free range egg
Lunch is a three course set menu with a choice of two items for the main dish. Kangaroo Island eggs are known to be truly free range as there are no foxes on the island to hunt them and this is a beauty all soft poached languid golden oozing goodness dressing the frisee (which I always find a little impossible to eat elegantly) and small flavour filled bits of lardon.
Crumbed and fried locally caught dusky flathead, Southern Ocean ranch dressing
I wasn’t really wowed by the fish as it needed more seasoning so the tangy dressing came in handy. The hand cut chips were excellent though.
Roasted breast and leg of spring chicken, tarragon salsa, bitter leaves
Out of the two mains, I preferred the roasted breast and leg of chicken, tender and flavoursome and nicely paired with the tarragon salsa and raddichio to balance.
Southern Ocean affogato
And the ideal perky pick me up to end our wonderful stay is the affogato!
So tell me Dear Reader, what or where is on your bucket list? And have you managed to tick off many items?
NQN and Mr NQN travelled to and explored South Australia as a guest of the South Australian Tourism Commission and Audi
Southern Ocean Lodge
Hanson Bay Road Kingscote SA 5223
www.southernoceanlodge.com.au
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59 Comments | Add your own
Wow! Just wow!
Great shots! The lodge looks amazing; I’m ready to book a trip!
Lovely post. I think that I might have thought that I had died and gone to heaven if I had been on your trip. I have been ticking off my bucket list. I was upgraded to the suite in the villa at Brenner’s Park that was my most memorable room.
Thanks for your beautiful blog on KI. I was lucky enough to visit the island several years ago with Maeve O’Meara’s Gourmet Safaris. This place is sheer heaven for foodies and nature lovers alike. For such a small island it was astounding to meet many of the locals providing such amazing food products, cheese, breads, seafood etc. I only hope KI doesn’t become too commercialised and lose its quaintness.
Only 2 places left on my bucket list that I’d love to visit – Morocco and Cuba, but as we’re now retired I think they will just remain a dream, but feel very lucky that I have seen so many beautiful places in my lifetime
such a pretty house!
What a fabulous road trip! So much amazing food (pancakes pancakes pancakes!), lovely interior and classy atmosphere!
Looking forward to your QLD experiences my friend!
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
I have always wanted to go there an now even more so! How wonderful – thanks for sharing.
Very jealous
The Southern Ocean Lodge looks amazing and the lavish suite … You guys were sooo lucky
Oh Lorraine you’ve managed to once again whet my appetite with the wonderful places you visit & this time I can say that come September2012 my family & I will be visiting Kangaroo Island! We won’t be staying at rhe Southern Ocean Lodge though… I am so looking forward to our “road trip” driving from Sydney to KI!!! Can I ask where are some good places to eat during the day as we will not be in town & driving after dark can be dangerous due to the large amount of wild life.So dinners & breakfasts will be self catered but lunches will be on the road while exploring the island..Thank you soooo much for this amazing entry!! Am totally jealous of your digs and your wheels! Were you wearing a Grace Kelly
scarf while driving in the convertiable Audi??
Everything looks divine and this is now on my bucket list of places I must visit! The food looks amazing too
Oh Dear!!! Lorraine that moment with or without the sandwich should never have happened. As recipient of many ‘hosted’ visits over the years as food and travel writer I never experienced staff member resentfulness like that. But I share with you one moment I haven’t forgotten and that was when Aman resorts charged me for the tea/coffee that was served when I interviewed their chef, I was very annoyed with the petty charge but you know what I sucked it up and paid without protest to retain my dignity. I hope the management read your story and reprimand the staff member to treat everyone the same regardless. Roz
I want to go there!! It looks fantastic.
I know you’ll be in Queensland and I would love to see you but Townsville is a gazillion miles away.
Ok, I have decided – I am booking a trip here. I was in South Australia for a week last year and just ran out of time to visit KI. I really regretted it!
I don’t think I can afford that room, but I’m sure the more basic ones are pretty good too.
I so wish I were there to take your workshop. Am certain it will be wonderful.
Ooooh…the love Great Room and its view. Wow. I need more photos of this lovely spot.
Looks beautiful and I want that tub! The shower sounds divine also.
What (another) UNIQUE and GREAT experience in SA,
Staying here is “on the list”, OK?
Recently LUXURIATED (on the Gold Coast) at Palazzo Versace!
AS soon as one walks through the door, treated like royalty!
Jumeirah and Atlantis in Dubai, on the wish list!
Who knows where hotel destiny might lead me, not to be missed?
Lorraine it all sounds fantastic.
It is on my bucket list too.
Had to laugh at you leaving finger nail marks! My husband took me to her “sister” Capella Logde on Lord Howe Island last year. What a fantastic experience. Left my finger nail marks there!
My parents were just at this resort two weeks ago and loved it!
I have too many things to name but now I have one more item to add.
*sigh* I want to go to there. This stunning resort has been on my bucket list for ages now. My bucket lists seems to consist of beautiful accommodation I want to stay at and restaurants I want to eat at.
Kangaroo Island has been on my list for years now, although I must say that after this write up I’m going to find it harder to dream about simply camping there!
The private spa overlooking the view looks amazing!!
Wow, it looks amazing NQN! It is definitely on my list of places to go. As far as my Australian bucket list, my must go to place is “Glamping” at the Ningaloo Reef in WA. As for worldwide Bucket list….hmmmm, I think a 5 star Safari in Africa would have to be right up there!
You have such a hard life.
Hubby and I actually had our honeymoon on KI 18 years ago. We plan on taking the kids there with us one year. The FLeurieu is a lovely spot with great food which is why I love living there. In summer we also have a range of berries and cherries from local orchards plus there is a great local, family run, cheese factory too. We never pay for sea food as it only takes a walk with the fishing rod to Granite Island in Victor Harbor to get squid, garfish and a great variety more.
I.want.to.go.to.there!!!!
Wow, you’re so lucky! This place looks devine! It is most definitely on my bucket list too now.
I’ve been to their sister hotel, Capella Lodge on Lord Howe Island and it was amazing! I went with my lovely husband for our honeymoon. It’s so luxurious but not glitzy, and makes the most of the beauty of the island. And such a relaxing place to return to after an exhilarating day bushwalking and snorkelling. Great food too!
xxx claire.
I too have been dragged kicking and screaming from the Southern Ocean Lodge. It is truly one of the most spectacular places on earth – combined with great hospitality and service. I’d go back in a heartbeat!
Friends of mine went there for five nights! That was a couple of years ago and they are still talking about it. They brought me back the brochure and some gourmet goodies they’d picked up from the Island and said, ‘You have to go there’. One day! Great review Lorraine but odd how you were to about that sandwich – anyone would think you were pilfering the crystal xx
Congratulations! I have seen so many photos of this place, but either you and/or Mr NQN have done such a superb and thorough job of these pics, they far surpass any viewed before. This place is about nature and the interior simplicity accentuates this. Absolutely love the views
! Also love the look of just about every dish. Giood plating, and that marron tail 
! Hey, don’t know how far I’ll get, but this will go down on my bucket list also!!!
Dear Lorraine,
This lodge looks so private and secluded, it will definitely be on our bucket list of we visit SA next.
thanks for this article. We are trying to arrange a mutually suitable time with two friends to visit. Definitely on the ‘bucket list’ which at our age will have to get smaller as we will not be able to do all the things on it.(Morocco, New York again, Orient Express etc) We have been wonderfully fortunate over 30 years to visit France a lot and always stay at the wonderful Chateau Hotels as I just adore the history of these places. I, too, am a bathroom freak and am looking forward to July when we take our whole family to Seminyak, Bali where we have rented the most wonderful looking 5 bedroom villa and just can’t wait to use the outdoor showers with their monsoon sprays. Thanks for your article, am about to ring our friends again to make a definite date.
OMG! What an experience. I’ve stayed in some pretty amazing hotels, but never a nearly $4,000 per night room. I think I would barricade myself in there so that they could never make me leave. LOL
A wonderful segment Lorraine. Shame that the sandwich moment could write off a place for some people as an example of a lack of generous service. There are other ways of alerting people without embarrassment & actually you still were a guest in a way, as hopefully a future ambassador on their behalf.
Eek! That egg bath and fireplace are just TDF. Not to mention the view and the food. Thanks for giving us a peek into heaven.
I am soooooooo jealous! Southern Ocean Lodge and Saffire here in Tassie are on my bucket list. Unfortunately I think I’ll need to rob a bank to make it happen!!
Oh oh oh i’d love to join in one of your tours but I’m all the way in Melbourne! Really hope you can come to Melbourne soon Lorraine so we can meet up
Great trip to Kangaroo Island i’ve heard so many good things of it ~ my bucket list is crazy with the places I wanna eat, blog and taste hehe
Ahhhh, the life of Lorraine
Fabulous colours. Decadent food. Loooooove the bath and the little details of the rooms. That fire!
Elegant. Extravagant. Romantic.
Xxx WOW!
Oh, what lucky Queenslanders!
The marron dish is gorgeous, but mostly I’m swooning over the bath with that view!
Oh, that bathtub!! Amazing. Looks like a very dreamy place to spend a few days. Great post.
Oooh, I will be flying to Queensland on 07/06 and would have LOVED to attend the session on the 08/06 while my bf is at work but I’m afraid Ayrs is too far from the Gold Coast for me to make the trip
It never ceases to amaze me the kind of adventures you have Lorraine! The food and the accommodation all look so beautiful, and that ocean! I wish the weather was warmer down in Melbourne so I can go to the beach again.
This looks so beautiful. I don’t know if you noticed the handmade ceramic plates, cups etc but they are just another one of the many special touches at the Southern Ocean Lodge. They are made by Sydney potter Malcolm Greenwood.
The Lodge looks so good! Your photos and info truly made me want to stay there. Maybe if I win the lottery or something
KI is one of my favourite places…have been many times, it’s a beautiful place in the world! That view from the bathtub looks amazing! Eddie Vedder…swoon exactly…I just love that song….and get excited every time I see that add
Wow! Absolutely gorgeous…the scenery, the food and the bathroom! Australia is on my list of countries to visit..hope I get there someday.
A few things:
1. Jealous!
2. I LOVE Liz Lemon!
3. I’m also obsessed with hotels and just love snooping around my room to check out all the facilities and amenities that are on offer!!
xox Sarah
OMG! I am absolutely speechless at the sight of that suite.
I wish I lived in Australia, I would surely come to meet you hear you speak about blogging. What an incredible holiday you must have had.
How lucky are you!! Such a beautiful place to stay.
Though at $3,800 a night its a place I very much doubt I will ever have the opportunity of staying in ;P
OMG KI has been on my list for quite a while now. I didn’t know anything about the Southern Ocean Lodge and I have to say it does look amazing and I place I would love to stay at.
BUT… after reading about the sandwich “tut tutting” moment. I don’t really think I’d want to stay there. With the prices they charge and the fact that the tariff includes all meals, well that moment should never have happened. It kind of makes me wonder about why it happened in the first place and would it happen to me if I stayed there?
But overall the food looked fantastic and I would love to try all of it!
I also loved the private spa and pool and that you can go out for a walk and just enjoy the beauty and natural wonder of the island.
Straight to my to-visit wish list, lucky you hun!
Wonderful food, great vistas, luxurious accommodation, but what do you DO there when you’re not eating and sleeping?
I’m living a gorgeous traveling life through you.
Sorry I haven’t visited this week (so much to do for my son’s b-day this weekend!). How have you been? I always enjoy your travel post and I’ve became so familiar with Australia thanks to your site!
I adore that bath tub, and its view! I could soak my cares away for hours!
Do you realize you have already fulfilled half the world’s bucket lists? That place would be hard to leave.
Hi Lorraine! I’m a journalist in Charters Towers I’ll be coming to see you on Thursday. I ran around the office squeeling a couple of weeks ago when I found out you were coming! Can’t wait to meet you
)
Hi Katrina- wonderful!! I’m looking forward to meeting you! See you on Thursday
x
Great article – lovely balance of great words well illustrated with beautiful photos. Quick disclosure of interest here – I work with Southern Ocean Lodge. I just wanted to make an offer for those people wanting to visit the Island who are not able to stay at SOL – there is still a gap between the amazing quality of the local produce and the quality of service, presentation and technique with which food is prepared at some of the outlets on the Island. Be sure to ask around for referrals and I am happy to assist.
KI is definitely on my “Bucket List” as is the Uluru Resort and the outdoor dinner spectacular there.
I have just returned from 2 nights and 3 wonderful days at the Southern Ocean Lodge. No wonder they say no celebrities stay there – everyone is treated as a revered family member who deserves the very best. And that is what you get in food (thanks Tim and Daniel et al) and service. The feeling of calm and care has remained with me .. a place I can return to in my mind to de-stress and regain balance!
Lorraine this looks absolutely fantastic! Such a great review, I am so glad that I have finally seen what it is like inside and thanks to your fantastic description I feel like I have been! Since your visit to the Lodge, a fellow Eyre Peninsula resident has become a chef at the Lodge and I very much enjoy following his photographs of the delicious food on instagram! What a wonderful place it is. Warmest wishes, Rosie
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