It’s heat that you can practically see. The kind that melts views in the distance and causes you to blink several times and reach for water to quench parched mouths. We arriving in Alice Springs at midday and anyone that has any sense is inside so the streets are empty with cars on the street waiting for owners to collect them.
A plaintive bowerbird calls in the distance. For those unfamiliar with bowerbirds, the male of the species spends hours collecting and arranging items of certain colours to attracts mates to their bower or nest. This bowerbird has collected the most curious mix of white and grey objects and the pink necked bird makes his calls from the thick of the tree.
Hundreds of white butterflies
Hungry stomachs must be attended to so we enter Bean Tree cafe nearby where we order a quick lunch to take away but end up eating outside. I get a little bit excited when I see that there is deep fried possum on the menu but find out that it’s a joke. Instead, I choose the kangaroo salad which comes out shortly afterwards.
Warm Kangaroo salad $19.50
The wild rocket is fresh, the native pepper berry spiced kangaroo tender and perfectly cooked and there is a light dressing. On top is a sprinkling of macadamias, crumbled garlic, shallot chips and sunflower seeds to give it flavour and crunch and a generous serve of sweet roasted beets and tiny lemon myrtle labne balls.
We’re fading fast in this heat-the heat of Uluru was a dry heat and much more tolerable but today’s freak heatwave saps everyone. Well everyone that is, except for our guide botanist and plant records officer Scott Pullybank at the Desert Park who eagerly takes us out to have a look at some of the 360 varieties of plants that are grown here on this manufactured desert park with 52 hectares of public space and over 1,000 ha of overall land.
Although they look like beans they give a laxative effect…
They started the park in 1996 and brought in truckloads of red sand to create this desert environment. Each area of the desert park is based on a naturally existing area and they have mimicked the plantings that occur naturally. We go looking for some bush foods which include bush bananas.
Edible bush banana flowers
Pencil yams
The bush banana flowers taste like a dry version of snow peas. Bush potatoes are high in water and this is where the Aborigines used to get some of their water supply. The most popular is the bush cucumber which is a small, smooth skinned little fruit.
Delicious bush cucumbers
The skin is thick and quite tough and squeezing it between your fingers is like squeezing a small inflated ball. The taste of the fruity pulp inside is like eating a salad with cucumber and tomato. I could snack on a bowl full of these. Scott tells us that a lot of bush foods have a bitter taste which is not a flavour profile we see a lot in Western cuisine.
We settle into our hotel for the next few nights, Lasseter’s hotel Casino named after the business man and speculator Harold Lasseter. The outside is a slightly dated salmon pink and green colour and we’re shown to our rooms in their newly refurbished wing, number 5 just past the pool. The rooms are brand new, clean and with a large king sized bed with a good range of soft and firm pillows, large flat screen tvs, a good sized working desk and sliding doors that look out onto the garden and pool (although at the time , they were obscured by bright orange “keep off the grass flags” which didn’t contribute greatly to the look). But guess what? There’s free, fast and easy to connect internet throughout the entire hotel! Hooray!
The bathroom is also new with a large shower and two shower heads-a monsoon and a massage head, although there’s no bath. There is shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, cotton pads and tips, shower cap and sewing kit which are all quite good. There are a good amount of light switches conveniently and logically placed and it is a solid four star hotel, at least as far as the new wing is concerned. I did find the other room doors opening and closing very loud and I seemed to have the misfortune of having a very noisy family right next to me and I learn that the walls are quite thin in this new wing.
Having had two 4am rises with 45 minutes sleep one night (the excitement after the concert rendered me unable to sleep), all of us were itching for an early night. This was a free night where we could choose whatever we wanted to do at our own expense. I must admit that the idea of room service did dance in my mind for a moment but when we were recommend Hanuman which is about two minutes walk away we all decided to take the short walk there.
Hamuman is one of Jimmy Shu’s restaurants. He is a big name in the N.T. and his blend of Indian and Thai cuisine – not together, has proven popular. His emphasis is on Thai, Nonya and Tamil flavours. Service is friendly and they give us some recommendations and the food arrives shortly after.
Trumpet mushrooms topped with a fine mince of pork, prawn (imported) and spices warmed with coconut cream sauce $17.50
Completely not what we expected presentation wise, these were small, soft balls of finely minced pork and prawns on top of a layer of trumpet mushrooms and coconut cream. They were topped with a slice of chilli coriander. One word? Divine!
Hanuman prawns (imported) cooked in a delicate coconut, wild ginger and curry sauce $35
We were very pleased with our choices and there wasn’t a dud dish among them. The prawns were large specimens and cooked in a thick coconut and wild ginger curry sauce.
Meen moolie of wild barramundi fillets cooked with turmeric, fresh curry leaf and coconut $27
Only Leena had heard of meen moolie before, a Keralan dish with soft wild barramundi fillets with a light, creamy sauce of turmeric, fresh curry leaf and coconut. This was one of my favourite dishes, the cubes of barramundi tender and the delicate sauce perfect for rice.
Red curry of duck roasted then simmered in a rich coconut and red curry sauce with thai basil, kaffir lime leaf, lychee and fresh pineapple $27
The boneless red curry was thinly sliced and served in a red coconut curry with Thai basil, kaffir lime leaves, enormous lychees and fresh pineapple. Whilst I really enjoyed this, I enjoyed the idea of the prawns and the meen mooli more as they were a bit more novel.
Thick rice noodles stir fried with beef tenderloin & green vegetables $18
These were soft rice noodles redolent in oyster sauce and rice wine with a sweet aspect to them. Egg omelettes, Chinese greens and generous, large slices of beef tenderloin came with it.
There’s no time for dessert as more work and bed beckons and we go back to our rooms.
The next morning is a trip out to the historical area of Hermannsburg. With a temperature of 38 degrees expected we pack plenty of water and sports drinks and take the 1.5 hour drive there. Hermannsburg is famous for a few things, firstly for being the first Aboriginal mission in the N.T. In 1877 Lutheran missionaries from Germany arrived to spread the word on the religion.
It is also famous for one of its most important residents – world renowned Aboriginal artist Albert Namatjira was born in Hermannburg. His talent at painting watercolours “whitefella” style started at the age of 35 when a painter Rex Battarsbee hired him to be a camel boy and to show him locations in the area that he could paint. He demonstrated his abilities and before long, was exhibiting alongside Battarsbee. His first exhibition sold out completely and he went on to become one of the most sought after and renowned artists in Australia and his meeting Queen Elizabeth II set Australia and the town of Hermannsburg abuzz.
On the way to Hermannsburg, along the West Macdonnell ranges (which from an aerial view resembles a processional caterpillar), we spot at the spot where his famous two ghost gums painting was painted. Sadly the gums appear to be dying and a rock signifies where Albert would have sat and painted the painting.
We also pass a memorial rock for Sir John Flynn who pioneered the vital Royal Flying Doctors Service which allowed people in remote areas to access information and medical help.
Arriving at Hermannsburg, we alight at The Precinct which is an area of the community which is open to visitors. Here, there’s the Kata Anga country style tea room at Strehlow’s House that serves lovely locally blended teas and apple strudel of all things! We wander around the homestead which has a little shop while they prepare our food and tea.
Each of the eight teas available are to lovely and distinct, it’s hard to pick one. I try a cup of ‘honey bee’ tea which is fragrant with honeybush, lavender, vanilla and jasmine.
Painted bean necklaces
Apple strudel with cream and ice cream $7.50
The apple strudel is soft and tender crusted and baked daily on the premises. Inside the strudel is small diced apple and large chunks of apple, yet they are all the same consistency. Served with ice cream and or cream, it’s a lovely strudel and well worth making the stop for. And where did they get the apples from those many years ago? They were brought from Adelaide as a special treat.
Scones
The scones come two to a serve with jam and cream and are also soft and warm. The other rooms in tea room are full of interesting pieces of history. A bronzed figure of Albert Namatjira features in one room along with a book on his history. Another building is also worth a visit-it’s not well signposted and part of a private building but it is a gallery of his work along with the work of his descendants and relatives.
Judith who often leads discussions
Across the way is Hermannsburg Pottery which is one of many indigenous workshops across the country that help to bring Aboriginal art to the rest of the world. It allows the artists to be paid fairly for their work. Traditionally, men made clay figurines but over the years here aboriginal women such as Judith, Irene, Hayley and Rahel here have made the art works. John and Veronica Rigby assist the artists in order for them to bring their artwork to the world.
Rahel Ungwanaka
Linda who specialises in animal figurines
They have exhibited across the world in almost every country of the world. John who manages the studio, tells us of taking two of the artists to Shanghai where they would wake early in the morning to go “walkabout.” They never got lost but he remarks that people were always kind to them and helped them back to the hotel. What is sad is that a lot of Aboriginal artists nowadays seem to be of the older generation and that it is a skill that is slowly being lost.
Hayley Coulthard with a clay figurine
Some of the ladies here who grew up during the missionary days offer an interesting perspective on it. They actually wished that the missionaries would come back to teach the current generation about working hard as it instilled a work ethic within them that they don’t currently see with the children.
After we bid the ladies goodbye, we are on our way again. About an hour away, and given that the two closest towns are two days away so yes there are long stretches of driving, is Ellery Creek Big Hole which is a large waterhole where you can go swimming. There are picnic tables where our driver Laurelle from AAT Kings sets up our lunch which is a light one today-salad, quiche, fresh fruit and juice boxes.
I have forgotten to bring my swimmers so I dip my feet in the water which is surprisingly cold. Braver or perhaps hotter souls than me go swimming in the waterhole which is fed by Ellery Creek. It’s a perfectly surprising day.
So tell me Dear Reader, if you could collect any artist’s work, who would it be? And do you think you would enjoy living in the outback?
NQN travelled to the Northern Territory as a guest of Tourism NT. Meals at Bean Tree Cafe and Hanuman restaurant were independently paid for.
Bean Tree Cafe
Lot 1286/Tuncks Road Alice Springs NT 870, Australia
Tel: +61 (08)8952 0190
Alice Springs Desert Park
Larapinta Drive Alice Springs NT 0870
(08) 8951 8788
Lasseters Hotel Casino
Barrett Drive, Alice Springs
Tel: +61 (08) 8950 7777
Hanuman Restaurant
Crowne Plaza Hotel, 82 Barrett Dr Desert Springs NT 0870, Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8950 8000
AAT Kings Palm Valley and Hermannsburg Tour
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37 Comments | Add your own
Haha seems like you coped with legendary heat of Alice springs perfectly
So many beautiful places and such incredible food!
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
Wow, another fascinating post. I have never been to the Red Centre, but I want to. Don’t think I could live there though.
Wow! What a gorgeous trip! I have always wanted to visit . Oh and I love Hanumans – have been to their Darwin restaurant many many times. Yum!!
Oh I love all the food!!! Amazing! This is not what I would have expected at all. I am so pleased you have opened
my eyes to the possibilities here!
I’ve never really been into arts so I’m not sure who’s collection I would want to collect… lol but I really liked the wonderful paintings at the Lourve
As for living in the outback…I don’t think I could lol I’m very much a city girl and prefer my apartments but…then you make Alice Spring look so pretty and the food ~ hehe but realised no dessert when you went to the Thai/Nonya restaurant?
The photo of the bower bird is just gorgeous. Love how he’s laid out those little berries.
I’m not really into any particular artist I just buy what I like. My mum’s family is from the bush and there are certain aspects I would love but I think I’d get a little lonely.
Hi Baby Sumo! It’s quite gamey and best eaten rare as it has little fat in it so it can get tough when overcooked
Hi Lorraine!! That looks like such a fun trip! And I’ve never had kangaroo before!! Seems so exotic! And omg Hamuman looks so exquisite! I’m a sucker for anything cooked with coconut milk so that would sit very well with me! Looks like you guys had a great time despite the lack of sleep! haha.. But I guess that’s what happens when we travel!
Hanuman is the name of an Indian god. Interesting name for a restaurant, and in Alice springs.
I would have definitely gone for the possum if it was on the menu:)
I just finished my lunch but after reading this post, I’m ready for another meal, lol. Those pictures are incredible and nature really speaks it all. So, kangaroo and possum are on my check list now.:) And of course, banana flowers and pencil yams are included.
A remarkable collection of photos and a good lesson on the Outback for both the locals and your readers from so many other lands. The simple and the sophisticated. Amazed at the interesting food available in the middle of this large continent: much so appetizing. No, I would be totally lost amongst the ‘droughts and flooding rains’ [Dorothea MacKellar] and the cruel beauty of the Outback and have immense admiration for the folk on the stations: especially the bravery of the women, who must feel the loneliness so! Would love to have more aboriginal art on my walls: Wandjidari possibly being my favourite artist of the genre.
Fascinating, especially the bush food. And the art. I still remember how captivated I was by “A Town Like Alice” so many years ago, and once again, you have made me realize I NEED to visit Australia.
Van Gogh. And no…I’d like to visit the outback, but not live there.
The Town called Alice is unique too!
Always a surprise what one may get up to!
Those trumpet mushrooms and prawns caught my eye, is only brekkie time, TRUE!
Wish I had some of that to enjoy now too!
I also thought someone like Picasso with his doodles on a serviette,
But something more personalized by Tony Bennett I would have my heart set!
I would love to go to the Outback and it is definitely a dream of mine to see Alice Springs and the NT. I do think more hotels should be offering 24 free internet. Everyone needs it when they’re traveling. I love to embrace the Aboriginal culture but I think I’ll stick to Western food over the bush tucker! xx
I keep forgetting it’s warm for you now Looks like an interesting place and I had my eye on the struedel with the ice cream AND the cream.
I love love love how you write about food and life!
btw,I have a stupid question: is kangaroo a popular food over there?
Just askin’
xxx Love.
Sounds like a scorcher of a trip. Great post. Loved hearing about Hanuman. I dined at the Cairns restaurant last year. Lovely experience. Thanks for sharing.
I wouldn’t mind the isolation, I think I’d get used to the heat, but I don’t think I could manage without enough water for a green garden Lorraine:)
I don’t collect much art work or ornaments, but it’s always lovely to see something someone is passionate about.
Oh I wish I’d known you were coming to my home town!! Was this recently?
I ate possum a few weeks ago – we went to a bush foods degustation at the desert park and one of the dishes was a possum confit – interesting flavours but not sure I loved it. I do LOVE the Hanuman prawns though – how good are they?
I’m glad you enjoyed the trip – it is a special place up here.
Oh and if you do want to eat possum, there is a bush foods restaurant in Brisbane – maybe look it up next time you go.?
Hi Anna! I was at that Bush Foods degustation and I ate the possum too!
What a coincidence! That’s in an upcoming story! yes the chef has a restaurant in Brisbane. I didn’t mind the taste at all 
You guys have the most amazing wild veggies. The bush potatoes are so intriguing. And the banana flowers that taste like snow peas sound amazing. I guess with that kind of heat, you get wonders to grow.
Your post title made me squeal, as it’s one of my favorite books as a child!! I always thought Alice Springs is fictional though!
I loved all of the ladies’ work, but I think if I was collecting, it would be the animal figures. I went to Hernannberg in 1987, and it was not as it appears to be now! I’m so glad that there is a cafe and artists there to show their lovely work. Back then I remember there was a shop where you could get a soft drink and something to eat, which I didin’t so I don’t know what they sold, and whilst there were buildings that told a story, there were also a lot of burnt out buildings there at that time too.
I would love to live in the outback- even though I hate the heat! Talk about a contradtiction! The first time I went to NT I was haunted by its beauty and its grandeur for a long time. I went again in 1989 and have not been since. I’ve never forgotten what I saw and experienced – particularly on a spiritual level. I found on my returns that the landscape down south felt trivial and prescribed compared to the landscapes shaped by millenia up north.
The more blog posts you make about traveling through Australia, the more tempted I am to get a visa and hop aboard the first available flight to Sydney! It looks so interesting: cultural riches, vivid scenery, and fab food.
Lorraine – I can’t believe you were at the bush foods dinner too and I didn’t notice you!! What a pity – I would have come and “picked your brain” for sure! Were you at the table inside with all the cameras surrounding it? And did you get to try any of the bush foods comp foods?
Not sure I should make this public, but I have a real yearning to try koala! I asked the chef at the bush foods dinner about it though and apparently it’s not allowed. Possum might have to satisfy me for now.
How would you describe the taste of kangaroo meat?
Looks amazing! I swear, are you always travelling or do you save up your posts and post them sporadically? What a life woman
I was lucky enough to visit the outback as an 11 year old, and I have longed to go back ever since. I really loved reading this (I love reading all your blogs) thank you
There is a very special beauty to the place, I’d love to visit one day. I couldn’t live in the outback though, I don’t think I could tolerate the heat.
I would collect Ken Duncan’s photos, I think they are amazing!
Your Ellery Creek picture made me laugh….brought back memories of when we went there on a family holiday (many years ago!). I was standing on a rock at the edge of the creek and lost my balance and fell in! Hahaha! Hadn’t thought about that for awhile
What a lovely place, it wonderful to get in touch with the roots of the country and nature. That bowerbird is very interesting.
The food looks very tasty although not as refined as some other posts.
I adore Canadian artist Tom Thomson, his art truly reflects the northern landscape in Ontario.
Let me just say, roughing it is slow room service to me; I don’t think I could live in the outback. But I’ll enjoy reading about it.
Some seriously good photography Lorraine!
Have always wanted to visit the NT but so far it has eluded me, don’t know if I could get used to the heat though.The Bush foods intrigue me, I want to try all of them! The dishes you ate look delicious , please point me in the direction of Jimmy Shu’s Hanuman restaurant, Yum!! You’re a brave girl…Possum!! Not for me I’m afraid 
If I could afford them, a couple of Caravaggio’s would suit me just fine.
I’m Albert Namatjira, and I paint the ghostly gums. I’m Clancy on his horse, I am Ned Kelly on the run…
Sorry. Always get that song in my head.
Loved this post, Lorraine, particularly because having spent a week in the northern Ontario winter wonderland wilderness, Australia and warmth feels far away.
some amazing photos. i love the painting – so talented.
What a great trip to alice Springs! yeah! Iloved the virtual tour a lot! Ever since I was a big fan of Midnight Oil , I want to go to Australia & to Alice Springs! I even met Peter Garret once at a popfestival in Belgium. He is so tall & cool!
Great pics of your trip & such a lovely hotel too! Waw!
Must visit your side of the world — though it would take a whole lotta courage to eat kangaroo meat
Hanumans was a big favourite of mine when living in Alice. Pad Thai was our standing takeaway order and the Massaman curry is great too.
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