Category Archives: Asia Eating & Travel

Eating and Travelling in Asia

Bukkake Udon at Sakata, Yurakucho, Tokyo

Sakata Udon Hibiya Tokyo

I hope you’ll forgive the culinary traversing across the globe. I still haven’t finished with my New Zealand stories and now I confuse matters by putting up a Tokyo story? I wish I could say that I jetted off to Tokyo briefly but not so. This visit to Sakata Udon was my last Japan story so I thought that I should “get it out” before things became irrelevant or changed.

Having lost my faith somewhat in my Lonely Planet Tokyo edition (hopeless maps getting us lost most of the time) we had originally tried to go to Sakata Udon in Ginza only to find ourselves in front of a demolished building. Granted the fact that it had been demolished at the end of last year wasn’t Lonely Planet’s fault as they scarcely had time to update their book but the fact was we wandered around for ages trying to find the pre-demolition spot that they had given directions to. We finally found it after a bit of research and a helpful hotel concierge who had given us a proper map.

Sakata Udon Hibiya Tokyo

Finding restaurants in Tokyo tends to mean that you often have to look up. Literally. A lot of the great find restaurants are housed not just on the ground floor but upper floors of a grey building. Sakata Udon is on the 3rd floor or a building and it doesn’t have an English sign, just script in Japanese. It was recommended by Lonely Planet with this praise “If you eat only one meal out, you’d do well to eat it here.”

Sakata Udon Hibiya Tokyo making udon

We enter and it’s all brown woods and soothing tones – we had almost expected a place like a ramen joint, a bit rough and ready but this is much nicer. We sit down and receive some refreshing chilled tea while we peruse the menu (they have an English menu although this might be abbreviated). A friend of mine recommended “Bukkake Udon” which had me almost splattering my drink in all directions when I heard the name. For those of you including my parents who don’t know what Bukkake Udon might suggest, don’t worry and don’t google it (especially if you’re my parents!). For those of you who do, it’s not what you think. Bukkake is a colloquial expression that means “throw something at/in/on” so the udon is just that.

Sakata Udon Hibiya Tokyo making udon

We can see the making of the udon through a window (as well as a small window when you step out of the elevator) and before long our bukkake udon arrives (we ordered one dish cold as it’s a hot day) as well as a hot Tempura udon soup. I also get my husband a serve of Nattō, the Japanese version of Australian Vegemite that the Japanese love but I personally find repulsive but I want to hear what my husband thinks of it.

Sakata Udon Yurakucho Tokyo Natto

Nattō Y150

I can see that while he is chewing it, he desperately wants to like it (being a boy he wants to say that he likes really grotesque sounding food) but it’s only one mouthfull for him and the remaining Nattō goes untouched.

Sakata Udon Hibiya Tokyo bukkake udon

Bukkake Udon Y700

Click here to read the full story

Menya Musashi Ramen, Tokyo

Menya Musashi ramen

I know this overseas trip was a while back but we had such great meals that I just couldn’t not publish these stories. Finding a restaurant in Tokyo is not an easy experience, the addresses make no sense in relation to street signs and the easiest thing to do is ask a passerby or if you happen to see a Police station (Koban) they’re best to ask. So when we emerge from Aoyama Itchome train station and have no idea where to go, the nearby friendly neighbourhood Police point out the way-of course they know Menya Musashi ramen. We follow their instructions to the ramen restaurant with the tell tale blue curtains and Japanese writing on the outside.

Menya Musashi ramen

You know that you’re in a slightly different ramen restaurant when you walk in and hear reggae music playing and there’s a team of young cool tattooed guys at the helm whilst the patrons themselves are a range of ages. It’s full and there are 4 people waiting for a seat. As most ramen restaurants, they’re not a linger and savour kind of place, within a few minutes, everyone that was waiting is seated.

Menya Musashi ramen

We however are standing in front of the vending machine looking confused. My very limited Japanese can only read a few things (in Katakana and Hiragana) so we do what we always do in this situation, either order what the person before us ordered or just press a random number. Ramen is between Y750-1200. We hand the tickets to the goateed guy behind the counter and he asks if we want the soup “Kotteri-aji” (thick or heavier) or “Assari-aji” (thin or simple). We choose thick as that seems to be what everyone else is ordering.

Menya Musashi ramen

Examining the ramen for “doneness”

The show is definitely on the floor where one of the gumbooted guys carefully extracts one single strand of ramen, pulls on it gently and examines it carefully for “doneness” before inevitably putting it back in the pot. Once done, he takes out the basket of ramen from the boiling water and then shakes the excess water onto the floor with a deft flick onto the floor producing a clapping or slap sound several times until the ramen is ready.

Menya Musashi ramen pouring

Menya Musashi ramen

Menma (bamboo shoots)

We receive the bamboo shoots first, simmered in a lightly sweet soy stock.

Menya Musashi ramen

Ramen Y820

Click here to read the full story

Lotteria Burger at Harajuku

After trying MOS burger, of course for comparison sake, I needed to try Lotteria, the omnipresent burger chain all over Tokyo. I had memories of a MOS burger in Harajuku but this has since closed down so on our visit we tried Lotteria. There are actually two branches within Takeshita Dori in Harajuku-if anyone would like burgers, it’s the teenagers of Tokyo. We were lured by their burger with it’s option of 1 or 2 patties with melted cheese. Of course I choose two patties Y490 as well as a prawn burger Y280 and a rib sandwich Y320, and some Y100 chicken bites.

Lotteria Burger Mango Frappe

Mango Frappe Y160

It’s warm so the Mango frappe, although not as fancy as a frappe you’d get back home, is well received. It’s more like milk with some flavour to it and mango flavoured shaved ice on top.

Lotteria double burger

Double Burger Y490

I bite into the double burger (which looks nothing like the mouthwatering picture) and the beef is very juicy, in fact the juice (or grease but it is more like juice) almost drips out. The bun itself is smaller than we are used to but the double patties provide a good protein to starch ratio.

Lotteria Burger Prawn burger

Ebi Prawn burger Y280

The burger that I like the best of the Ebi burger (prawn burger). I didn’t expect there to be whole of half prawns in the patty (I expected “seafood” minced up) but that’s exactly what we get. The patty is piping hot as it’s freshly cooked and the sauce goes nicely with it and at Y280 it’s a steal.

Lotteria Burger Pork rib

Pork Rib Sandwich Y320

The last item is a Pork Rib sandwich, smothered with BBQ sauce. I can’t really tell if the pork rib itself is pork rib with the bones removed although it looks like it, it’s a bit too soft and manufacture meat in texture to be real pork rib but you never know with Japan as they often use better quality ingredients. I prefer my pork ribs to have a bit of chewiness to them and this is too soft for me, much like manufactured meat (and I was already full) so I leave this to my husband.

Lotteria Burger fries

Fries Y330

The fries are fresh-ish, although they’re not that different to fries that you get anywhere else.

Lotteria Burger chicken bites

Chicken Bites Y100

The chicken bites are a little dry but they’re actually made of real chicken breast (not that horrible stuff that nuggets are made from) so whilst this is pleasing, they need a dipping sauce.

We leave Lotteria, full to the brim of Japan’s take on American cuisine and dive into the crowds ambling up and down Takeshita Dori in their platform shoes.

Lotteria Burger

Takeshita Dori Harajuku, Tokyo. There are two branches at Takeshita Dori, one at the top and one at the bottom.
Exit JR Harajuku station or Subway Meiji Jingumae station and turn left, continue down street until you reach opening of Takeshita Dori.
Plus branches all over Japan.
http://lotteria.jp/index.html

Tsukiji Fish Markets Tokyo

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji fish markets

How much do I love you Dear Reader? Should you ever doubt my devotion to you, think of our visit to Tsukiji fish markets, the largest  food market in the world, covering 2,100 square metres in the heart of the Tokyo. A visit that requires you to get up at a horrendously early hour and take the first train of the day, when most Tokyoites are still asleep on their futons in their tatami covered rooms. Even though I lived here a few years ago, I never even thought of coming here so early on my days off, after all what use is a day off if you cannot sleep in. So despite wanting to satisfy my curiosity, I never made it here until now. My husband is chomping at the bit to go here.

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji fish markets

Sea Urchin

Tsukiji fish markets

Squid

As it’s early, the trains are a little less frequent. We normally wait between 1-3 minutes for a train but at this hour we wait 10 minutes (yes the Tokyo Subway system could teach State Rail in Sydney a thing or two). We exit from Exit 1 and make our way down the main street and essentially follow all of the “gaijin” or foreigners who have also woken up early to have a look a the markets. It is said that the Japanese don’t bother paying a casual visit to Tsukiji but that it has always had an allure for non Japanese.

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji fish markets

We pass some shops selling ramen, sushi and sashimi to reward those that have risen so early. We resist, as we’re flying out this morning and only have a short amount of time to check things out. The market is divided into three areas, a front area selling produce related to seafood and cooking like utensils and other foods, the middleman area where you or I could buy fish and the back area, a wholesaling area where we keep our distance. There are a few unspoken courtesy rules to Tsukiji:

  • Do not use flash photography
  • Do not touch the fish
  • Do not go into the wholesale/auction area (there is plenty to see in the Middleman’s market)
  • Get out of the way!

Tsukiji fish markets

The last point is for your own safety as well. There are small buggies taking fish to and from stalls at breakneck speed coming at you from all directions and they probably would run you down if you don’t get out of the way.

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji fish markets

This is also no place for your best clothes or shoes. Whilst the smell of it is much fresher than Sydney’s Fish markets (whose smell can be overpowering) the freshness of the fish and the conditions mean that there is mostly just the smell of the sea, they do dump water and ice at every turn and you may find your feet splashed often if you don’t watch it (and you’re often trying to dodge the buggies).

Tsukiji fish markets

Two huge tuna, tails lopped off

Tsukiji fish markets

Tuna is definitely the prize catch as we see several large tuna, tails lopped off, being carted around. People take the tuna by hand using reverse wheelbarrows whereas smaller fish in sytrofoam go by mechanical cart.

Tsukiji fish markets

Fat, fresh Scallops

Tsukiji fish markets

Crab meat

Prices can be a steal, we see a dozen fresh fat plump scallops Y1300 (about $13-$14AU), and crab meat in three different colours.

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji fish markets

Octopus

Tsukiji fish markets

Man choosing and buying octopus from Middleman’s markets

Tsukiji fish markets

There are fat octopus, still wriggling fish and all sorts of mysterious items from the sea including gigantic scallop type items.

Tsukiji fish markets

Wholesale Auction area

Tsukiji fish markets

Auctions in progress

The auction area is more serious, with men in caps standing around inspecting the fish looking contemplative and holding their chins. By 9am all of the action is wrapped up and the fisherman pack up their trucks.

Tsukiji fish markets

Buyers contemplate their catches during auction

We leave, without trying some of the famous Daiwa sushi as we need to get to the airport. We’re still wistful, there’s something so frantic and energetic about Tsukiji that my husband declares that he wants to come back on our 1 day lay day on the way home. Despite the start time, I wholly agree.

Tsukiji fish markets

Tsukiji Market

Near Tsukiji station. Best reached by subway (Hibiya line). Directly near Tsukijishijo station although this train line has less connections.
Closed Sundays, national holidays and some Wednesdays (see calender on website)
The restaurants aroudn Tsukiji open around five in the morning and close between 12:00 and 15:00.
http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm

Tsukiji fish markets

The Lock-Up Prison restaurant at Shibuya

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya

What would you say if I invited you to come along to a Haunted Prison themed restaurant, in one of the busiest hubs of Tokyo and told you that you may indeed be scared senseless entering the restaurant and that you’ll be led to a jail cell in handcuffs and then locked up in it for the duration of the meal? Sounds good? Then you’re someone that I would be friends with.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya

I had been looking forward to The Lockup in Shibuya ever since arriving to Tokyo as I kept hearing how very weird it was. At another location (there are several Lockups throughout Tokyo), apparently you and your party get placed into a darkened room and if you find the secret opening, then you make it into the restaurant. I had no idea what to expect so when we see the sign indicating we are to go to Basement 2, we follow, hesitating. The entrance looms and there is a genuinely spooky atmosphere given by the extremely dark and winding hallways, cold rush of air and cackling and screaming sounds around us. We inch around the corner slowly, as to not to fall (it’s a lawsuit waiting to happen and this would never happen in a litigious country like America or even Australia) and what happens next frightens the hell out of me, a man strapped to an electric chair, Clive Barker from Hellraiser sans pins, rocks back and forth screaming with lights flashing.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya electric chair

I scream my lungs out and then fortifying myself, move on where we encounter other bumps and things designed to scare (I won’t ruin the surprise for those that want to go) and encounter three doors, one door being the correct one, and two others….well let’s not ruin that for you too! If you want to experience entering the LockUp there are a couple of videos on Youtube ;)

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya

Making it into the sanctum of the restaurant, my husband is led by handcuffs to our prison cell (I don’t get handcuffed :( apparently, only one member of your group is which I think is a bit disappointing). We get our own “prison cell” and are locked in although the door isn’t actually locked and we are free to go but they do pull the doors shut.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya

We peruse the menu and find some cocktails that tickle our fancy, mainly due to the presentation as we can’t actually read the menu that well and there is no English menu. It’s Izakaya food, which I absolutely love as I like small dishes in a plentiful number so that I can try as many tastes as possible.

A friend translated the cocktail menu for me as it reads as follows:

  • Cloning Experiment
  • Electric Shock
  • Illegal Parking (Injection) [Red Ticket]= pronunciations of Japanese words for ‘parking’ and ‘injection’ are the same
  • Bad Loan – your eyeballs have blown up because you’ve lent too much money
  • Human Experiment
  • Drug Addition (you are already dead)
  • Time Bomb Capsules – they may explode after you’ve swallowed them?

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya testtube drink

Test tube cocktail (non alcoholic Y800)

Our cocktails arrive, the first one a non alcoholic number served in a beaker and with 5 test tubes with different flavours and a dropper to add each flavour to the drink. The drink itself is like a carbonated light yogurt drink and the flavours are sweet and tasty. I enjoy this chance to play scientist and “mix” drinks all night.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya Syringe drink

Syringe drink Y580

The second drink comes also comes in a beaker but this also has a syringe full of red jelly which we squirt into the drink. It has a sweet berry flavour to it and is alcoholic (and strongly so).

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya breadsticks

Complimentary breadsticks and cheese dip

The drinks also arrive with some breadsticks broken in half in a beaker along with the sweet and savoury cream cheese. It’s curious and not too bad indeed.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya bbq pork

BBQ pork with spring onions Y609

Our range of dishes arrives in quick succession. The BBQ pork dish at first looks like it has too much spring onion on top of it but once popped into the mouth, it tastes perfect, the pork beautifully soft and melt in the mouth. It’s a delicate touch for an Izakaya and we are both impressed.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya salad

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya salad

Big Salad Y871
The second dish, a 35cms tall salad in a glass arrives and the waitress serves this up by tipping out the salad onto a bowl and spreading it out. There is finely sliced crunchy daikon, lettuce, cherry tomato and fried chicken pieces with a Japanese Wafu dressing. There’s no egg as per the picture though but we welcome the taste of fresh salad.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya Chicken salad

Chinese chicken salad Y504

The third dish is actually different from what we had ordered but it’s very good so we don’t mind in the slightest. It’s a chicken and sesame mayo Chinese chicken salad served in a purple cabbage cup. It’s very good, one of my favourite salads ever so we don’t ask what happened to the original dish (not that we could anyway, my Japanese only gets me as far as ordering, not complaining)

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya Nankotsu

Nankotsu Y504

The fourth dish is one of my favourites ever since I first had this in an Izakaya. It’s not always available at every Izakaya and whenever I see it, I always order it. It’s Nankotsu (chicken cartilege), breaded and deep fried so that the bone is no as crunchy as when it is grilled. A sprinkle of Tabasco and it is perfection and this is indeed.

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya Okonomiyaki

Mince Okonomiyaki Y609
The last dish, a beef mince okonomiyaki is not to my taste. I am also very full so I pass up on this after a first taste. My husband prefers the mince as it is more “moist” than a regular Okonomiyaki whereas I prefer the regular version. This tastes like a lot of mince with some fish flakes on top. My husband on the other hand is hypnotised by the swaying of the fish flakes.

We sit back and watch other parties being led this time by bondage-y style clad waitresses and wish we had more time to try the other Lock Up experiences. Just because a meal tastes better after a fright.

The Lock Up

33-1 Udagawa-cho
(just off Center-gai, Shibuya Grand Tokyo Bldg. B2F)
Tokyo
Tel: +81 (03)-5728-7731
Open:
Monday to Friday 17:00~01:00
Saturday 17:00~05:00
Sunday 17:00~24:00

Shibuya

Cover charge Y525 per person plus tax charge

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya drinks menu

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya drinks menu 2

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya menu

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya menu

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya menu

The Lockup restaurant Shibuya menu