Category Archives: Asia Eating & Travel

Eating and Travelling in Asia

Tippling Club & 2am: Dessertbar, Singapore

tippling club 2am dessert bar

tippling club 2am dessert bar

“We have between 12 to 18 amuses which we send out to guests” chef Ryan Clift of Singapore’s Tippling Club and former head chef of Melbourne’s Vue de Monde says. He’s only half joking. We’re somewhere in between the seven complimentary amuses bouches that have come out to us (and these are typical of what a diner will get). In one area there is the test lab which in fact looks like a designer laboratory complete with all of the chef toys. And why the name Tippling Club? Ryan explains that tippling means to eat and drink in small portions.

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Chef Ryan Clift

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Apparently in the 18th century tippling clubs were exclusive clubs where food and alcohol enthusiasts would eat and drink the rarest alcohols. The club members would go on missions in search of these rare types of alcohol and there was reports of one ultimately doomed mission where a tippling club would visit Peru to acquire Pisco and only one returned. And so Tippling Club with its emphasis on finding rare ingredients exemplifies a modern day version-except without risk of perishing of course.

tippling club 2am dessert bar

The Cutlery rest, a plastic pouch of herbs in liquid

It is a restaurant that can serve only 30 each night and true to the name, Ryan sources ingredients from as far flung as the Himalayan mountains. There are two tasting menu costing between $140SGD (classic) to $240SGD (gourmand). However if you want, each course in the tasting menu is matched to a wine or cocktail for $230SGD for the classic menu or $390SGD for the gourmand. And we’re getting a combination of their classic menu and their gourmand menu this evening, all matched with cocktails and wines. And I’m quite lucky to be getting these pics as they have a strict no photography policy for their food!

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Amuse bouche #1: potato and leek vichysoisse with a square of confit potato and avruga caviar

But let me start with my first amuse bouche described as “daily surprise snacks from the test kitchen”. It is an amuse of potato and leek vichyssoise with a square of confit potato and avruga caviar. We pick it up eager to try it and some spill a  little on the table. It is housed in a slender glass vessel which has a spout at either end. We put one end of the spout into our mouths and take in the little square of potato confit topped with avruga caviar and down the hatch! It’s creamy, salt, poppy and rich. A perfect start.

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Cocktail menu

tippling club 2am dessert bar

The cocktail menu is cleverly designed so that the four parameters of sweet, spice, sour and dry are measured against the cocktails on offer. The “MB’s apple pie” is a rectangular glass in a cardboard sleeve designed to mimic the McDonalds’ apple pie in flavour and look. And if you look at the diagram above, it is firmly in the “sweet” category.

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Gomashio Kampai

We are all having different cocktails although we all swap and try each other’s. Mine is a refreshing cucumber cocktail that has a distinctly Japanese feel to it and a favourite for many in our group. Japan is a country where Ryan spends a lot of time finding and researching ingredients. In fact he was in the underground during the recent earthquake.

tippling club 2am dessert bar

DIY Negroni

tippling club 2am dessert bar

5 Borough Sour

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Amuse bouche #2: Carrot curry

The second amuse is a small glass pot of carrot curry with freeze dried raita (cucumber yogurt) and features a blanket of furry green powder. A spoonful of everything gives a complete textural and sweet and savoury sensation with the mixture of freeze dried and powdery greens.

tippling club 2am dessert bar

Amuse bouche #3: charred pepper embers

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Singapore Fling: The Local’s Guide To Singapore’s Best Food

hawker centre singapore

In my last Singapore post I showed you about the high end of Singapore. And although it has been a good 15 years since my last visit before that we used to visit a lot. My mother is Singaporean and every few years we’d get on a plane to visit my aunt, uncles and countless cousins. I can tell you these five things about Singaporeans:

1. Singaporeans are obsessed with food. Like seriously obsessed. They will spiritedly debate the merits of their favourite chicken rice, char kway teow, oyster omelette place and then cluck at you good naturedly for going to the wrong place or give you a loud bellow of “Approved!” for selecting the right place.

hawker centre singapore

2. They love high end and they love low end food. By low end I mean cheap hawker centre meals where deliciously fragrant and flavoursome food can be had, in the heat and humidity, for a mere $1 per drink or $2-$4 per main meal. The high end here is higher than the high end is a lot of countries with the most expensive meals costing about $400SGD per head.

hawker centre singapore

3. They love to shop and the shops are open until late to cater for this love.

4. They don’t seem to sleep much. They’re too busy working, eating and shopping.

5. They are obsessed with food. They really are. So it’s no wonder that with a mother from Singapore I would be similarly devoted. It was in my genes…

So it would seem only fitting that we see Singapore, the other Singapore beyond the glittery 5 star jewels with some of the locals of Singapore. These people will uncover to us the hidden gems, the best places to eat where Singaporeans eat and the places about which they furiously debate.

hawker centre singapore

Geylang Serai Food Market

No trip to Singapore is complete without a visit to a hawker centre. All of us were up early at the crack of dawn and ready to partake in Tony Tan’s food tour of local hawker centres and shops where he gives us a his view on the food and history of Singaporean cuisine. We start at the Geylang Serai food market where the hawker food sits on the level above the wet market below. It’s a predominantly Malay muslim market so the food is mostly halal.

hawker centre singapore

Tony Tan

We start with the stands around the outside of the markets that sell dried shrimp and palm sugar. There are differences in the palm sugar here-we are used to paler palm sugars in Australia whereas here it is darker. Tony shows us belacan which is the pungent shrimp paste used in laksa and all sorts of other delicious dishes. There is also a fascinating black nut, the Buah Keluak which is poisonous and fishermen use to stun fish before they catch them.

hawker centre singapore

The poisonous Buah Keluak black nut once buried in alkaline  ash

hawker centre singapore

The black nut is then boiled and roasted

When the fish eat the nuts they become dazed and float to the top making them easy to scoop up. The nut is poisonous without treatment but after treatment becomes deliciously edible (and we’ll get to try this later).  Treatment involves burying it in alkaline ash and then boiling and roasting it which semi prepares it. It is then mixed with spices and the filling is then stuffed back into the shell and cooked. And I can’t help thinking about whoever thought of this process really must have wanted to eat this!

hawker centre singapore

Tongkat Ali – Viagra for women and men!

Another interesting item is the Tongkat Ali which is the bark of the tree that is used in tea and coffee to increase how shall we say…stimulation. It is said to be like Viagra for both women and men! We tried some but sadly didn’t feel any effect which is probably a good thing as our other halves were at home in Sydney…

hawker centre singapore

The Wet Market

hawker centre singapore

We enter the wet market and it is so named because the ice used to pack and keep the fish for selling makes the floor very wet. Starting at 5:30am there are all types of fish for sale in the ten or so stands that sell fish with prices marked per whole fish rather than by weight. There is a stand with fresh cockles being scooped up.

hawker centre singapore

Scooping cockles

hawker centre singapore

hawker centre singapore

The two types of coffee that make up Singapore coffee

Tony holds two types of coffee beans in his hands. One is roasted in margarine and sugar and has a glossy coating to it and another looks more like a regular coffee bean. He urges us to put one of each in our mouths to taste the difference. Singapore coffee is a 50/50 blend of these beans.

hawker centre singapore

hawker centre singapore

We pass a stall where “Auntie” (everyone older is pretty much auntie or uncle) is chewing on a betel leaf wrapped in betel nut. She is also making pot pourri out of flowers and shredded pandan leaves to leave around the home which she packages up in newspaper and staples shut. Tony tells us that many of the older generation have become addicted to chewing on the betel nut and this leads to problems like involuntary drooling but the initial feeling is that of relaxation. He buys a few for us to try as Alison and I want to give it a go a bit later as they suggest having a toothbrush handy as it turns your mouth brown (as if involuntary drooling didn’t sound unglamourous enough!).

hawker centre singapore

But enough shopping, we’re hungry! All of these smells is enough to make a girl suddenly want breakfast and as in Asian countries, the best places for food are the ones with long queues. We line up at this stand which is popular for their Nasi Padang dishes and Tony tells us that the owner has also made the pilgrimage to Mecca.

hawker centre singapore

Beef Lung

Pork is one meat that isn’t sold here because it is a predominantly Muslim market but meats such as beef, chicken and goat are popular and they also sell offal including beef lung, spleen and tendon. As we are getting hungry (it’s lunchtime according to our Sydney based tummies), we follow Tony around to gather the best of what the hawker centre offers including the beef lung above. I try a bite and it is flavoursome and quite firm in texture and actually quite pleasant indeed without the overtly strong offal smell that some offal has.

hawker centre singapore

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Divine Wonderland & Sarong, Bali, Indonesia

wonderland sarong, bali

Welcome to Alice in Wonderland…

wonderland sarong, bali

When you think of Bali, you may think of cornrows, humidity and Australian tourists. You don’t really think of Alice In Wonderland. But when the lovely local blogger Sinead from Airy Fairy Cupcakess told me about Divine Wonderland, an Alice in Wonderland themed restaurant, I knew I had to pay it a visit. I am admittedly rather obsessed with Alice In wonderland and all things to do with her and her merry and mischievous companions.

wonderland sarong, bali

Peering inside the window

Formerly open for breakfast and lunch, Divine Wonderland is only open for dinner nowadays from 4pm (we learned this the hard way when we arrived for lunch to find it closed). There is valet parking outside and the green Astroturf lawn is a colourful contrast to the white walls, chairs and tables outside. We walk inside and the Alice banded waitress asks us where we would like to sit. I look around and the answer hits me instantly. There are two enormous chairs at least double the size of regular chairs. ” We’ ll take those please!” I say happily.

wonderland sarong, bali

Mr NQN in a giant chair!

We climb up onto the chairs and feel like kids again. “We’ve been shrunken like Alice!” I tell a confused Mr NQN who hasn’t read the book or seen the movie. “Mmm right” he mumbles while climbing up into the chair. I suspect that at 188 cms tall he  hasn’t felt this small in a long time whereas I at 155cms have never felt tall. We start with some lovely drinks. Most restaurants in Bali are open air and it’s usually quite pleasant but today is particularly hot so we need a lot of thirst quenching. The music selection it has to be said is great and on some nights they have a DJ. It’s a shame there isn’t afternoon tea served here.

wonderland sarong, bali

wonderland sarong, bali

Red queen 59,000 rupiah (approximately $6.66AUD)

Mr NQN orders the Red Queen which has gin, sweet vermouth, lime, apple, cranberry and grenadine which is sweet and very fruity.

wonderland sarong, bali

Strawberry juice 18000 rupiah (approximately $2 AUD)

I love the strawberry juice which tastes just of sweet, fresh strawberries. Although the menu does say at there isn’t any sugar added I would have to guess that there is some sugar syrup as strawberries are never this lovely and sweet.

wonderland sarong, bali

Carne platter for two 78000 rupiah (approximately $8.80 AUD)

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A Progressive Dinner Across Blue Water Cafe and West, Vancouver, Canada

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

My dear lovelies! Tonight we are crossing the wild plains. Actually we’re crossing from East to West and then from one end of town to another in a progressive dinner across two vastly different Vancouver restaurants!

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

The first Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar in Vancouver’s vibrant Yaletown district. I notice people are young and dressed up, girls are wearing their cutest frocks and heels and there is an air of fun and activity here. Blue Water cafe and raw bar is a restaurant split directly down the centre. To the left is “east”  under the direction of Yoshihiro Tabo with a sushi bar with a signed Olympic torch above it and a freezer chest of ice suspended below it.

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

To the right there is the “west” area which has been open for 11 years serves European and American style dishes whose chef Frank Pabst has won awards and culinary championships. The room it has to be said is very warm and inviting. In the back is the “wall of wine” which is the largest wine cellar in North America. A testament to this love of wine is the awards for the sommelier Andrea Vescovi and other wine list awards from Wine Spectator among others.

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

Bread with butters

The bread rolls come out with two types of butter: a wakame seaweed butter and a red pepper and chickpea blend. I particularly like the wakame seaweed butter although it is different from the one that we had at Maze and not as strong and more herbal in flavour like mint. The red pepper chickpea spread is an interesting blend, like a red pepper hommous.

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

Dungeness crab salad served with Sumac Ridge tribute, Brut Okanagan Valley.

We are starting off with an amuse bouche and sashimi here tonight. Our first course is the Dungeness crab salad which comes out on pretty crystal bowls (the same ones they use for desserts at Rockpool Bar & grill). It comes as a cylinder of crab salad with some slivers of slippery wide ribbons of wakame and thinly sliced cucumber on top and tastes exactly of the sea. It is served with a gorgeous white wine which just matches it perfectly. On top is tiny needles of dried red peppers which give it a spiciness.

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

Tsunami served with 8th generation reisling 2008, Okanagan Valley

The tsunami is fabulous and true to the name. On top of the wrapped up kingfish slices there is a paper thin slice of Jalapeno pepper and it sits in some ginger, soy and sesame oil. The jalapeno gives it a certain heat, Mr NQN thinks perhaps too much but I’m in heaven. It is hot, and true some may find it too hot so they may want to remove the pepper but I love the combining of smoky sesame, salty soy, fragrant fine whiskers of ginger and the hiramasa kingfish, one of my favourite sashimi fish.

Mr NQN urges me to try the 8th generation reisling wine with this “Go on, I think you’ll like it”. In fact I love it and it literally tingles on my tongue like bubbly. It is from the Okanagan Valley which produces great fruit and wine and is similar to Napa Valley. It is a wine made from 25 year old vines.

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

Halibut Tataki served with 8th generation reisling 2008, Okanagan Valley

Halibut is a fish that is in season for 2 months of the year which is why we’re seeing it on so many restaurant menus at the moment. The halibut tataki is lightly torched which you can see on the side of the slices. It comes with a ponzu sauce which is slightly tart with spring onions and red horseradish. This is too strong for me as I don’t really like horseradish and tart flavours so I swap back with Mr NQN who happily gobbles up the halibut.

blue water cafe, west, vancouver, canada

Spot Prawn Bisque served with Sherry Alvear Amontillado

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Waku Ghin by Tetsuya, Singapore

waku ghin singapore

I once dated a guy who halfway through our relationship was grumbling about having taken me to the best restaurants in Sydney and the expense that I had incurred on his credit card.

“I should have started in the mid price range and then I could have worked my way up to the top. Now you’ll be expecting 5 star 3 hat restaurants all the time.”

I looked at him like he was crazy. “What makes you think I would have dated you if you had started in the middle range?”*.

*it’s not strictly true. My first date with Mr NQN was bad take away pizza. But then I thought Mr NQN was much more fabulous than this guy.

waku ghin singapore

But in any case, I couldn’t help thinking about this ex of mine when I arrived in Singapore to be whisked away to my hotel and to dinner at Waku Ghin, Tetsuya’s new restaurant in Singapore. With food completely unlike his Tetsuya’s restaurant in Sydney and only seating a  mere 25 people at one time, it was something that I was more than curious about. And when Mr NQN took my place at the Waku Ghin dinner in Sydney there was much gnashing of the teeth and moaning  as I was committed to another event. But no matter, I finally got to try it here! It’s no ordinary dinner costing about $400SGD per head but it has a clear emphasis on Japanese cuisine as opposed to the French Japanese cuisine at Tetsuya’s.

waku ghin singapore

The swirls in the carpet echo the swirls in his custom made knives

We walk into the Marina Bay Sands complex. There are shops from Miu Miu, Gucci, Chanel and the motherlode, a Manolo Blahnik shoe shop. We make our way up to the second floor where we look down and see floors and floors of the casino. I’m not much one for gambling but because they allow for smoking here, some of the cigarette smoke does end up in all areas and that does include Waku Ghin so there was a bit of sniffling throughout the night from yours truly who is allergic to cigarette smoke.

waku ghin singapore

The casino floor below

There is an illuminated sign above the doors and white drapes on the outside giving it an almost “closed” look. But then the doors swing open and a battalion of staff greet us. And given that the restaurant seats 25 there has got to be at least 25 staff in both the kitchen and on the floor.

waku ghin singapore

The restaurant experience was said to be one where one moved from one table to another but in reality it is much less complicated than that. There are two seatings, one at 6pm and one at 9:30pm. The diner is lead to a room where the savoury courses are brought out (about eight savoury courses) and then you adjourn to another room for the dessert courses. I was envisaging much more getting up and down so I am relieved given my heels!

waku ghin singapore

Sous chef Inoue with Wagyu (marbling score 9)

We are seated in front of a long grill plate and facing a wall with protruding wood blocks. Ghin means silver in Japanese and for this restaurant it is represented in the knives, the grill and even things like fish which features so predominantly on the menu. Even the logo of the two horizontal lines represents the grill. The courses start shortly arrive we settle in with a glass of N.V. Pol Roger to soothe the nerves after travelling.

waku ghin singapore

Sayori with Nanohana and Japanese strawberry

The first course is a seasonal Japanese fish called Sayori or needlefish with Nanohana and Japanese strawberry. Now I usually run screaming from savoury dishes with strawberry in them. I don’t mind some fruit but strawberries are not a favourite with savoury. This  changed my mind completely. The diced strawberries imported from Japan (and yes they come from the South where the earthquake hadn’t affected things) are sweet but subtle and paired with a sashimi of sayori which is a firm white fleshed fish with the iridescent skin still on and it is served with nanohana which are mustard flowers which give it a savouriness that the sweet strawberries need. There are also the subtle flavours of chives and basil.

waku ghin singapore

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