Category Archives: Aust wide Eating & Travel

Australia wide Eating & Travel

A Quick Escape To The Sunshine Coast, Queensland

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It was the quickest of trips. I would be barely more than 24 hours on the Sunshine Coast where I was booked to speaking for half an hour. The rest of the time would be spent in transit or doing work and catching up with friends.

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The view from the deck and the painting by Elizabeth Corfe that reflects this

And yet the view kept drawing my eyes like a hand had pulled my chin towards it. The view that I mean is the lush, green view of the hinterland and the views to Mount Coolum and Old Woman Island or Mudjimba. I was to speak at the at the Gourmet Garden International Food Bloggers Cook Off (Gourmet Garden’s farms are located on the Sunshine Coast) and my home for the 24 hours was Escape House an enormous three bedroom house with views as far as the eye can see.

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I step through the wooden double doors and the property’s caretaker David greets me and shows me around. The kitchen on the left is a feature with induction stove and European appliances. The owner of Escapes is Brisbane’s dessert king Martin Duncan from Freestyle Tout. It is photo shoot ready with Caesarstone benchtop, an island, hidden double freezer and fridge. The music system plays throughout the whole house and can be adjusted for volume in each room, reverse cycle air conditioning and light dimmers to help set the mood.

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The lounge room has a comfortable modular lounge, a colourful throw artfully tossed across the end and the whole building has a luxe, natural lodge feel to it from the  hide rug to the neutral cloth textures of the lounge and bean bags to the lamps made with branches or tree trunk pillars. The telescope is set up for maximum viewing and floor to ceiling windows open out onto a sizable wooden deck with barbecue.

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Taken on a Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS lens, focal length 28 mm, ISO 100, 1/100s

The main bedroom is all view too and has a king sized bed (which is ridiculously comfortable-I slept like a baby). There is also a large bean bag and behind the bed is an enormous closet where a sarong hangs as well as bathrobes and yoga mats. Art work features prominently in the house and David proudly shows me his wife’s painting in the lounge room which is of the view from the house.

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The bathroom, always the room that I am a little obsessed with, has a large egg shaped bath with a very handy wooden paddle across it to rest things on and there are also his and hers sinks. Toiletries are really soap, shampoo and towels, you will need to bring lotion, tissues and conditioner. Mirrored on the other side of the sinks are twin shower heads. Bath salts are kept in the cupboard behind the mirror and I make a mental date with the bath after dinner.

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Third bedroom

The house keeps going and from the main bedroom and the third bedroom, is access to the plunge pool and pool lounges and there are also laundry facilities. I’d love to go for a little dip but work calls and I just look longingly at the water instead. The second bedroom is a mirror image of the main bedroom on the other side of the house which makes it ideal for three couples. I make myself a cup of tea-the pantry is helpfully stocked in the way that only a chef would with provisions of goose fat, jersey milk and eggs from their garden and a proper coffee machine. You can also pre order any supplies to be stocked in the fridge for your stay.

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I do some work and before I know it, night falls and the image in the painting is mirrored by the lights below. There’s a knock at the door and the lovely Martin arrives and settles in and puts on the log fire and then shortly after my friend the delightful Maureen from Orgasmic Chef and her darling husband John arrive. I feel like I know her already because we’ve read each other’s blogs for years and even though we hadn’t met before, we settle in and chat like old friends.

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After some wine we set off for dinner at Wild Rocket at Misty’s in Montville, a modern Australian restaurant set in Montville’s oldest commercial building built in 1910, formerly a “fancy goods and lolly shop.” U.K. born chef Peter Brettell and his wife Belinda run the restaurant. Maureen tells us that everything is made in house from the sausages to the jams and we’re seated inside although there is a nice outdoor terrace area too. Maureen’s friend Rani is also joining us.

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Steamed Pork & Prawn Wontons Spicy Green Paw Paw Salad $16

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A Houseboat on the Murray, Mildura

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“Are we there yet? Are we there yet? Are we there yet?” says the man from the SES who is on the plane across the row from me on the small aircraft. He’s just waiting to get home to nearby Broken Hill but Mr NQN and I are excited for another reason. For our anniversary weekend, we’ll be meeting celebrity chef Stefano de Pieri and cruising the Murray River in a Houseboat and seeing what else the Mildura and Murray River region offers.

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We alight at Mildura and take the drive to where our houseboat is moored. Our home for the next two nights is the luxurious “Sweet Indulgence” a three bedroom, ten berth luxury houseboat from All Seasons Houseboats. There are three rooms with queen beds and two ensuites, a fully operational kitchen just like one on land, a dining room table and a large sun-drenched dining suite upstairs alongside a spa bath that could fit several in it. There is tea and instant coffee provided and filtered water although sugar and milk need to be brought in and in the bathrooms, there are soap, shampoo and conditioner.

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Mr NQN is the captain here as he has sailing experience and he undergoes the necessary lessons on how to maneuver the boat and park it. Most people that take the houseboats out drive them themselves (it’s fairly easy) but there is the option of having a driver should you need one.

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There’s just a quick moment to freshen up before it’s time to head across the road to the Friday night Sunraysia markets. They’re usually held on a Sunday but the late sunshine means that they are also held some Friday nights. There are approximately thirty to forty stalls selling a range of produce.

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Much of it is made up of fresh fruit and vegetables as Mildura is part of the Riverina fruit bowl region. Table grapes, citrus, figs and a wide range of vegetables including some as interesting as an apple cucumber are sold. To eat these, you peel them and slice them much like a cucumber in a salad or sandwich although I found them very bitter.

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A popular stand is the Mettwurst stand -the recipe is from the 1960s and Mettwurst is really one of those popular German items via South Australian that doesn’t really see its way around the rest of Australia. It’s a fermented meat sausage and comes in varieties like garlic, pistachio and several variations of chilli. Their store is about 160kms away and regular customers make a beeline for a whole link or half link and know exactly what they want.

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Plump figs steeped with honey and nuts are wrapped up and sold individually at the Mourquong Ridge Fine Foods stall. Trays of fat figs bursting at the seams are sold for $4 a tray. Spaghetti squash are harvested and organic fruit is also sold here. Large nets of oranges are hauled by burly customers while even larger nets of butternut squash anchor tent poles.

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We mustn’t delay though because we are expected in the town centre, about five minute’s walk away from the houseboat and markets. Tonight is the start of the Arts Festival and the town of 60,000 people buzzing. We’re headed to Stefano de Pieri’s newest venture, the Mildura Brewery. Stefano’s face beams down from posters around town and he is akin to a town mayor. He helped put Mildura on the map with his “A Gondola on the Murray” television series. He is warm and welcoming and surprisingly hands on. He is busy running around bringing dishes to tables and making sure that all guests are looked after.

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The Mildura Brewery Pub is the former Astor Theatre and the bones of the structure are still there with a modern refurbishment. Stefano and his wife Donna opened it up as their own a few months ago. Stefano was born in Treviso near Venice in Italy and emigrated to Australia in 1974. He first landed in Melbourne where he took the unlikely turn of editor of Nuovo Paese, an Italian newspaper. After this he tried a stint working for the Department of Ethnic Affairs working on immigration policy and almost running for a Labor party seat but it was disillusionment with the political system that saw him leave. Marrying Donna and moving to Mildura saw another change in his life when his father in law Don Carrazza who owned the Grand Hotel asked for them to help.

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Stefano de Pieri

He is still involved in politics from a cultural perspective and particularly how it affects his community in Mildura, especially from an environmental perspective. “This is a marginal area and we are very exposed to climate change. Half a degree is enough to unbalance the whole thing here.” He wrote an opinion piece for The Age newspaper which advocated a compromise, not a popular for the greens but one which he felt was the only alternative to move forward.

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And what does he think of Julia Gillard? He says that he finds it difficult to separate his friendship with her from the political side but says that “90% of the vitriol about her is because she is a woman. You always hear people ‘I hate that woman’ but you never hear them say the same about the men.” He also praises the town’s involvement with the arts that started when Senator Robert Dunlop Elliott owned a substantial collection of art and left it to the city. “The arts centre was built before the roads were paved” he adds.

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His status as outspoken chef with a strong intellectual side especially in regards to politics means that he has definite opinions. “They’re (city chefs are) all silly talking about produce but still living in the city. Why don’t they come to where it is grown? Victoria is well punctuated with reasonable restaurants but it took 100 years and it has only happened in the last 10-15 years. By right, we should have more. We should have a body of food practices-we have wheat and lamb so our dishes should be pasta and lamb and cake.”

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He still keeps a house in Treviso which he visits several times a year, both on tours to Italy and for personal sabbaticals. It was growing up on a farm that taught him about using produce and he tells us “my heart is with simplicity” when I ask him about his cooking style. And this is shown in his latest venture at Mildura Brewery.

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Stefano is also a microbrewer specialising in craft beers. There are seven on offer here and we choose two: a mallee bull, a strong ale and I choose a honey wheat beer, the sweetest of the lot which has the distinct flavour of honey followed by wheat and is really very refreshingly crisp and good.

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The menu is a crowd pleasing mix of fresh Italian items, roasts to share and pub classics like fish and chips and chicken parmigiana. Stefano offers to bring us a mix of his favourite dishes. It starts with a dish that we had seen come out to many tables. Beautiful, plump white figs are quartered and served with their magenta seeds facing upwards alongside house made capicola (cured pork shoulder or neck) and house made bread drizzled with divine olive oil and baked in their wood fired oven.

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The second dish is soft duck cooked with carrots, celery and herbs, the juices making a delectable sauce for the casarecce pasta. The pasta is by Barilla who have an association with Stefano from his stint on Masterchef Professionals. With this, we have a glass of his 2011 Sangiovese.

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Lamb shoulder $30

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Fish D’Vine Fish Cafe & Rum Bar, Airlie Beach, Queensland

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Aerial shot of Whitsundays from helicopter. Taken on a Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS lens, focal length 40 mm, ISO 250, 1/5000s.

There are two types of people when it comes to eating crab. Those who will pick up a saucy leg and eat it with gusto, sucking on the shell to extract every piece out savouring the flavour of the sauce and the rich crab. And then there are the others who are so repulsed by the idea of eating with their hands that they simply miss out. I have a friend who ate crab for the first time a few years ago. Philip is a nice man but among our friends he is known for his conservative taste. The first time we told him that he had to use his hands to eat crab he paled to ghostly and then spent the next 10 minutes delicately extracting a little flesh from the pincer before giving up and eating other easier to eat foods.

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And the greedy crab eater (i.e. me) will hope to eat with him because of course that means more crab for the greedy crab eater! But tonight, I’m among crab enthusiasts aka my fellow Remarkables from The Remarkables Group this evening at Fish D’Vine in the Whitsundays Airlie Beach for a work conference. Open for ten years and owned by chefs Kevin Collins and Rebecca Clark, it is known for two things: rum (and mojitos) as well as their seafood, the fresh local chilli mud crab being their signature dish. One thing that they completely understand is hospitality. As soon as we all sat down, mojitos were furnished and the food came out swiftly afterwards. We’re eating from the $40 set menu tonight.

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Mojito

Said to have one of the world’s best mojitos, their version is pretty darn fabulous and perfectly balanced and just the ticket for the warm, tropical weather.

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Chilli mud crab

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Afternoon Tea at Chateau Yering, Yarra Valley

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Every year when Mother’s Day comes around, I start thinking of places to take my mother to. The first idea always starts with afternoon tea (hmmm I must admit that many food ideas start with afternoon tea) and starting a day’s eating with an afternoon tea is really the best sort of start you can have. One our recent trip to the Yarra Valley, Mr NQN and I decided to go back to place of one of our favourite stays a couple of years ago. Chateau Yering was where we participated in our first truffle hunt, had a delicious dinner by candlelight after a blackout and vowed that we would definitely come back.

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Afternoon tea needs to be booked ahead of time and it is a $55 a head including sparkling wine. We take our tea in the Drawing Room, a blue hued room filled with restored antique furniture and we sit on the lounge opposite the fireplace. The menu for the high tea changes regularly according to the pastry chef Simon Docherty’s ideas and it starts with a glass of Yering Station’s Yarra Bank Late Disgorged sparkling wine. The 2004 drop is delicious with delicate bubbles and a true honeyed sweetness to it.

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The sandwiches and savouries come out first-on three plates no less (and yes, this is the typical serving size for two!). The first plate contains three items:  a divine prosciutto wrapped duck roulade with beetroot gel, a creamy rich feta mousse tart and a petite squirt of duck liver parfait on crouton-delicious but I would have loved a bit more on the bread.

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There are two types of triple decker sandwiches on the plate: a Mediterranean char grilled vegetable and cheese sandwich and a Virginia ham, Yarra Valley Cheddar and tomato sandwich. Each sandwich type comes in a white and wholemeal bread. The bread is super fresh, there are no crusted over portions here and the fillings for both are generous. The char grilled vegetables are moist and full of flavour but I think the wholemeal ham and cheddar sandwiches spread with mayo just pipped them at the post for me. What can I say? I’m a ham for ham! And Mr NQN notes that while afternoon tea often leaves him hungry, having one and a half triple decker sandwiches per person left him patting his stomach happily.

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The third plate features two individual portions of the chicken, tarragon and mayonnaise rolls. The chicken is finely shredded and blended with the mayonnaise and it’s served on a freshly baked rectangular roll. The only thing would be just a bit more chicken in the sandwich to make the ratio fit.

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Mesmerising Mossman Gorge, Queensland

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Uncle Roy Gibson

How does the saying go? Rewards will come to those that wait? In the case of community leader Uncle Roy Gibson, his dream was having his ancestor’s land in Mossman George used as a space to create employment for indigenous people. It was an idea he first thought of twenty years ago and in 2008 the ILC (Indigenous Land Corporation) bought the eight hectare sugar farm where Roy once worked for $20 million. An additional $20 million was invested into the site to create a destination for people to connect with the indigenous people who would offer guided tours through this ancient rainforest.

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Officially opened in August 2012, the fertile and flourishing tropical north Queensland climate has meant that seedlings planted now grow proud and tall dwarfing any humans. Designed by a local Cairns architect, it is environmentally sensitive to the environment as well as being as self sustaining as possible. Electric buses drive visitors from the main building to the walking tracks.

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Fittingly, there’s a patter of rain followed by stronger downpours. There is a self guided walking track that is available to the public but the best way to connect with this beautiful rainforest is through the eyes of an indigenous guide. How many indigenous Australians do you meet in your everyday life? Chances are that in the city, you meet few. Yet so many of us want to make a connection with the original people that lived in Australia before white settlement. To get to know and understand them benefits everyone. Almost sixty out of the sixty six staff are indigenous and much of the construction was done by indigenous workers. And today, we’re lucky enough to have Roy himself as our guide.

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Today’s walk is the two and a half hour Dreamtime Legend Walk and there is also a Dreamtime Gorge Walk that takes one and a half hours. Our walk starts with a smoking ceremony which is a cleansing ceremony. The idea of this ceremony is to respect the people that own the land and to make the visitor part of the land and have them come back at a later date.

Roy takes a walking stick and guides us through the rainforest track that he first walked as a nine year old boy. He shows us a pencil cedar tree which is a tree in which they often find withcetty grubs. When they see sawdust in a fallen tree, they know that there is witchetty grub activity and the grubs also act as a mass tool for hollowing out the log so that when it is split, there is a ready made canoe.

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Another tree is one that in September will become laden with fruit like pears. He tells us that when the pigeons come they know that the fruit is ripe and all they need to do is shake the tree where the fruit will rain down on them. He also shows us lawyer cane vine which is an excellent water source-the fatter the vine the more water is held within and there is often enough to fill a water bottle. The useful cane is also used for making bridges, huts and climbing tall trees.

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He shows us yellow walnuts which are split and fed to schools of fish to knock them out for easy catching.  To test the edibility of food, they offer it to either fish or an animal like a scrub turkey. If a scrub turkey rejects it, they know that it’s not for human consumption, likewise a food that fish eat it, the food like the yellow walnuts are also not for human consumption.

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Can you spot Roy’s son “Boy” in the picture?

“Boy! Where’s boy?” Roy calls and he stops and points at a lizard well camouflaged in a tree. He then stops at a large tree with a section cut out of its buttress root. They removed this part from the weakest point to make a shield and boomerangs so useful for trading but generally not needed in the rainforest. He demonstrates how they can communicate using the roots by hitting the root with a rock to signal if someone is lost or hurt (which is also done in the Amazon rainforest). He tells us that losing your voice in the rainforest is common as many of these plants contain small particles that you can breathe in or ingest without knowing.

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Hitting the roots

He touches the milky sap that leaks from another tree’s trunk-this is used as a glue in place of stitches. We try some and it dries remarkably quickly and is very sticky. And we stop by a broken branch where he says was broken deliberately and is pointing in the direction of the way out of the rainforest-as you can imagine it all starts to look quite similar.

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Peppervine whose leaves are crushed into pepper

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We stop at a clearing which is set up as an area to hear stories. Here, we are asked to close our eyes and listen to a story told by local storyteller. Closing our eyes allows us to hear all of the rainforest noises around us more acutely than if we hadn’t.

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