Category Archives: Norfolk Island

The Secrets of Norfolk Island

norfolk island food

Welcome to the second and final part of our visit to Norfolk Island where I’ll share with you some more secret treasures of living on this fascinating island. And first of all you should believe them when they tell you that Norfolk Island’s Farmers Market are “wee” – they really do mean it. In fact it’s about three stalls big. Perhaps the lightly falling rain has something to do with it but we nevertheless proceed to visit the three stands. First up is a stall manned by three young local boys selling little fudges and chocolate cups for 50c all made by one boy’s mum. When we ask the boy if he minds if we take a photo of the fudge he says no problems “It’s not trademarked.” Brilliant!

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

The second stall sells local pork which is bred on their 25 acre farm near pictureque Anson Bay. Among the many cuts, there are ham steaks and pork smoked over pine wood. If only we had time to buy and cook some!

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Matt Bigg

Our third stop is the stall owned by fruit and vegetable grower Matt Bigg who supplies to most of the restaurants on the island and also to the consumer trade. There are only four fruit and vegetable items imported into Norfolk Island and these are only brought in because the growing conditions aren’t quite right for them and they use so many of them that they couldn’t produce enough.

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Matt, along with a few other producers supply the entire island with fruit and vegetable produce and he tells us that the key for a grower on Norfolk Island is variety. He has to virtually stock a greengrocer’s selection for the public, many of whom already have gardens but perhaps don’t grow enough to eat.

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

There are bowls of orange and purple beetroot, cucumbers, enormous zucchini, several types of hydroponically grown soft lettuce, cauliflower and it looks like the type of produce that you might find in a home garden rather than with the uniformity of supermarket specimens. None of his produce is ever sprayed. He works to maintain a healthy soil so that the crops don’t become susceptible to pests. And did you know that  here on Norfolk Island butcher  shops actually sell fruit and vegetables in the store?

norfolk island food

Butcher shop selling fruit and vegetables

norfolk island food

We follow Matt back to one of his two farms. He is a Pittcarin/Bounty descendent and the operation has four staff in total to meet the demand for supply. There are many hydroponic trays of red oak and butter lettuce which flourish when grown this way. “It’s either feast or famine here” he says and when a crop is in season it is absolutely abundant and if the weather conditions change which is their biggest challenge then things can become a challenge. He points at the row of bananas “We use bananas as a windbreaker. We are a small island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and we are open to the elements” he says.

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Cucumbers

One of the advantages to the island microsystem is that they are absent of many pests like fireblight, boil smut disease and fruitfly. Before we go, he comes out showing a pineapple which another grower has just started growing. He’s excited at the quality of the pineapple and it is a new item for the island-it has been about 20 years since pineapples were grown on Norfolk Island.

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Sublime

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

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Lost On Norfolk Island

norfolk island food

Mooo!

“One thing that I have to tell you is that cows have right of way here” Tania tells us when we arrive at Norfolk Island. Good to know, after all I understand that communicating with a cow and arguing the merits of road signs might be a fruitless task.

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Anson Bay

norfolk island food

Norfolk Island is an island about a two hour flight out of Sydney and is actually considered an international destination so you do need your passport to get there. Norfolk Island, along with Pitcairn Island, are both sites of the famous “Mutiny on the Bounty” where Fletcher Christian started a mutiny against Captain Bligh and set him adrift on a boat with some of his men.

norfolk island food

The language is sort of like English! See quote above.

Currently with a population of 1,700 people, the island is a very unique one. For starters, there is currently no income tax (although this is set to change in the future) and it also currently has no welfare system so that everyone on the island has to work to afford to live there. Also apart from seeing cows on the side of the road (270 cows on the roads, 1,700 cattle total on the island but bulls are thankfully penned) you may also see geese and feral chickens. Residents of Norfolk Island are allowed to own up to ten cows per person and twice a year there is a cattle muster at various points around the island where they are drenched and vaccinated.

norfolk island food

There are quirky touches where a street called Cascade road has houses named after their rooves for example “blue roof”, “can’t see the roof” and “rusty roof.” Feral chickens roam around strutting proudly, everyone waves at each other when they pass each other on the road and no-one needs to lock car or house doors. Roads have names like Robbers Lane, Puppies Point, Cats Lane and Grassy Road and phone numbers are a mere five digits long.

norfolk island food

O.K. we probably need to address the elephant in the room, yes mature travellers love Norfolk Island. They come in couples or large groups and are often repeat visitors coming once a year. When the Sydney customs officer saw that I was headed there he remarked that I would be the youngest person there and when I had a look at my fellow passengers on the flight, he had a certain point. I was determined to find out whether a) there is much of a food scene b) whether there was something for younger people to do and c) why mature travellers love it so much!

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Bronze whaler shark

We start with a half day orientation tour with Norfolk Touring which takes you around all of the key points and ends with morning tea at the Christian house (descendants of Fletcher Christian) and a stop at the wharf where we see fishermen taking in and filleting a large catch of grouper caught using rod and reel and a bronze whaler shark swims up to the water to munch on the discarded heads and bones. Two crabs perform a mesmerising waltz each pincer clutching a piece of fish while they eat at the meat.

Two crabs and a piece of fish

norfolk island food

This is a common sight as many go fishing to stock their deep freeze. There aren’t professional fishermen here on the island, most residents are recreational fishermen and they simply go out in their boats, fill up several tub’s worth of fish and bring them back to the island to cook them. They keep the fish for when the weather and conditions aren’t right to go out to sea to fish. Our tour guide John Christian tells us that there simply aren’t a lot of good fishing days a year so they need to make the most of it while they can. There isn’t a limit on the amount of fish you can catch nor do you need a license. They can catch anything from cod, grouper, kingfish, trevally, snapper and what seems to be the most common Norfolk Island fish, the red throated emporer or trumpeter fish as they call it.

norfolk island food

The old whale cooker that could cook a 35-40 foot whale

norfolk island food

St Barnabas Church

St Barnabas Church is left unlocked 24 hours a day, 365 days a year for anyone to enter and the only rule is that you have to close the door. The pews are made out of Norfolk pine and NZ Kauri tree with incredible details like mother of pearl in lays.

So what is the food scene like here? Well tourism is the top industry which means that there are plenty of restaurants and accommodation and there are some gems within the area to be found. They do have to grow a lot of items here because importing items from Australia is expensive at a cost of $500 per cubic metre in or out. Because the produce is grown here, the food is very seasonal.

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Norfolk Blue

norfolk island food

norfolk island food

Robyn Menghetti

“You know about paddock to plate? Here we do conception to plate” says Robyn Menghetti. Armed with a background in agriculture (but she notes, not livestock) and her husband a native Norfolk Islander they set about breeding Norfolk Blue cattle, an extremely hardy and tasty beef cattle found only on Norfolk Island. Thought to have originated from a “Blue Bull” called “Dr. Blue Suit” it inter bred over a hundred years with the British cattle breeds Hereford, Friesian, Red Devon, Murray Grey to produce a blue coloured cattle breed and Norfolk Island is the only place that you can taste this beef.

norfolk island food

The restaurant was originally set up because Robyn and her husband wanted to showcase their beef as they found that it just wasn’t being displayed to its full advantage. The Norfolk Blue breed of cattle has a calm temperament and is extremely drought hardy. Robyn tells us that on Norfolk Island there were two severe droughts while they were farming cattle and within about 2 months their cows had bounced back while other breeds took as long as a year.

norfolk island food

Now after five years of breeding and their first attempt at artificial insemination just today, they barely have enough beef to supply to the restaurant it is so popular. The atmosphere and service is very welcoming. We take a seat on the enclosed, sunny veranda and decide that having beef is the best way to go-after all why eat fish at a cattle farm (although you can, it is on the menu).

norfolk island food
Asian beef salad $17

The Asian beef salad is fantastic and so generously portioned with ten (yes I counted ;) ) big slices of juicy, grilled beef amongst pieces of lettuce, cucumber and tomato with a delicious sesame dressing drizzled on top of it. It sits in a deep fried cracker cup and the serving size is that of a main. I immediately start worrying about whether we will be able to fit in the mains.

norfolk island food

Beef liver pate $16.50

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