Category Archives: Book Reviews

Sour Cream Custard Brioche (Gâteau à la Crème Fraîche)

gateau a la creme fraiche

There was Mr NQN his eyes wide glued to the television. He was riveted, watching a stark naked man running across the ice.

“Honey come have a look! Bear is running across the ice naked!!!”

“And I would want to see this, why?” I asked raising an eyebrow from the comfort of the other room.

I’m convinced most men have a secret man crush on Bear Grylls or at least want to be him. For me, I’m still wondering why his name is Bear and why he keeps doing the things that he does and whether at night he sits in a 5 star hotel getting pampered or simply pulls up stumps on the side of a road and unfurls his sleeping bag. I have also learned never to interrupt Mr NQN while he is watching him. Not that I could pull his attention away. “Shhh…Bear” is all he will say to quiet my questions, his eyes not moving from the screen.

gateau a la creme fraiche

Mr NQN was having his brother over and they were going to do manly sporty things while I was away. I knew that they would both be starving and helpless (where has the caveman that seeks food out gone?) so I needed to buy some food to feed them lest they raid the ingredients that I had bought to test out recipes with. So I made them brioche to eat. But as life is often  about marketing something properly I told him that instead of it being a sour cream custard brioche (code for “fancy”) my down to earth husband would be content with “some bread with some custard on it.” I dared to buy them some brie and some Afghan bread and knew that they would be fine and fed.

gateau a la creme fraiche

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Luke Mangan: The Making Of A Chef Launch & Interview

luke mangan book launch

Chef Luke Mangan

This past Christmas was the season for food books and amongst the many cookbooks that were released, there is amongst them an autobiography of chef Luke Mangan called “The Making of a Chef” published by New Holland. Luke Mangan is known as the chef behind Glass, Salt and the P&O cruise Salt restaurants as well as having the honour of being the featured Australian Chef at a Princess Mary of Denmark pre-wedding dinner. I was sent a review copy and sat down to read it one evening. The first thing that struck me was that it was written like it was a direct translation of Luke talking which took a little getting used to.

It’s best approached as a “how to become a chef” guide for an upcoming young chefs or kids inspired by the whole Masterchef phenomenon. He explains the pitfalls and highlights of being a chef. He is however a very different chef and it’s a different book than Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential. Luke Mangan uses celebrity names from the likes of Richard Branson, Princess Mary and Bill Clinton like Bourdain uses expletives. There’s no sex, drugs and rock and roll-well there is the latter in the form of Chris Isaak being a diner but nothing quite as juicy as one may have hoped.

Mangan can also polarise people-he writes of his time making enemies writing a popular food column but it appears honest, like it is making some amends and well as touched with a bit of chef’s trademark arrogance. From many reports he is also a very generous chef too. When I tell him of how I used to dine here at Glass when I worked in advertising he invited me back any time for a meal and I had heard of him extending similar invitations to others.

luke mangan book launch

I was also invited along to the Sunday Magazine reader launch of his book at his restaurant Glass and see that Luke is busy flitting around and drumming up sales of the book. He tells me that the event sold out within hours (he is holding two dinners in Sydney and two in Melbourne) “I could have done four events here” he says excitedly. He greets everyone at every table with a handshake (and a pen for signing in the other hand) and he is friendly and warm if fleeting.

Bread-sourdough and fruit sourdough with Luke Mangan olive oil

The bread is excellent-warm and with a lovely light crackly crust my favourite was the slightly sweet fruit bread and is offered with the Luke Mangan olive oil which is a lovely drop.

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Trailer Park Shepherd’s Pie & Win 1 of 5 Copies of “Mosh Potatoes” The Heavy Metal Cookbook. Rated: A.O.

An Adults Only Post!

I was rushing around this November. So much so that I literally half lost my mind. I turned up at a facial appointment on the wrong day. I knew it as soon as I arrived and the therapist who has seen me plenty of times looked at me quizzically. “I’ve turned up on the wrong day haven’t I” I said to her and she nodded sympathetically.

During this whirlwind, I received a cookbook to review in the mail. They turn up like Santa’s presents around this time of the year and I have a large stack to go through. As soon as I opened the box I laughed. “Mosh Potatoes: recipes, anecdotes and mayhem from the heavyweights of Heavy Metal”. Well blow me over with a feather. This would have to be one of the most fun cookbooks I’ve received all year. Such was my eagerness to read it that I stowed it in my bag and read it in the taxi on the way to the facial and tweeted about it as soon as I could.

The front quote reads “Every recipe in this book is pure evil. And I mean that in the most delicious way”. Looking and weighing like a large paperback,  author Steve “Buckshot” Seabury himself from a band called Motheater, curated these recipes from members of Ozzy Osbourne, Pantera, Kiss, Guns N Roses, Judas Priest, IronMaiden and Anthrax.

mosh potatoes, trailer park shepherds pie

And what sort of recipes might be in here? Well they range from the immensely edible like Black Tusk grilled shrimp (from band Black Tusk, it’s not a variety of shrimp), cheese and egg party puffs, to the more colourfully named Satanic Burrito and Ridiculously Delicious Beer Bratwurst. Meat is definitely represented here including the Jagermeister Roasted Lamb but then so is hommous and healthy sounding turkey gyoza in soy vinegar sauce.

My favourites for fun value were Dexter Holland from the Offspring’s recipe which simply required package ramen to be made in a trash bag and Lemmy from Motorhead’s Krakatoa Surprise which comes with a forewarning “In theory, this is an awesome recipe, but prepare at your own risk”. It involves flour, chocolate syrup, refried beans, curry powder (1/2 pound!), a bottle of strawberry syrup and a quarter bottle of brandy (restrained given the rest). Everything but the strawberry syrup and brandy is piled into a mountain shape, then the strawberry syrup poured over it then the brandy and finally a match is struck to set it on fire. The instructions read “Eat while still burning. SURPRISE!”

mosh potatoes, trailer park shepherds pie

Of course where is heavy metal without groupies and the associated food like “Hot Rod Penis Loaf by Gen from the Genitorturers. She explains that she did try to make these in a female appendage version aka vulva loaf but the end result proved disturbing in appearance  as the juices gathered in the inner recesses resembled a venereal disease! And continuing on the theme are Shrimp Cl*ts On Grit Cakes where Baslac from GWAR says “…my favourite Souther meal is a bog pile o’ shrimp ‘n’ grits. What makes my version about a hundred times better than all the others out there is that I turn my prawns into a plate of little vaginas just begging you to gobble them up…This is the second best things you will ever put in your mouth!”.  Mmmkay, if you say so!

There is also Weeping Brown eye Chiili by a member of Cattle Decapitation and Garbage Plate which features 8 frozen beef patties, 4 cups frozen hash browns, 8 slices of American cheese and 4 cups of cold baked beans or macaroni salad and 40 salted butter pats, unwrapped (a hangover from cooking in a hotel room I guess!) paired with a 16 ingredients hot sauce made from scratch.

mosh potatoes, trailer park shepherds pie

And desserts are not forgotten-there are regular sounding desserts such as mud cakes, crumbles, pecan pie, Oreo pie as well as a “highly doubtful teacake with very suspicious creme” by Emilie Autumn. The “very doubtful” part is the use of fresh lavender which is not quite the type of ingredient you would expect in a heavy metal cookbook (and they use organic eggs too).

As it is a US cookbook and because these guys are on the road, there is quite a bit of use of prepackaged convenience products or brands that we can’t get here but there are a good number of recipes that use fresh, regular food (40 pats of butter notwithstanding ;) ). And ok this is mostly a cookbook for guys (the shrimp dish might have given you that impression already ;) ) but quite frankly I love any book that encourages a man to cook and it is a lot of fun with some actual, real recipes. And if this isn’t the perfect cookbook to give your Heavy Metal Mama or Man or just regular guy, then I don’t know what is.

mosh potatoes, trailer park shepherds pie

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Caesar Salad Soup, Win 1 of 4 Signed Copies of Quick Smart Cook & Menu For Hope

main caesar salad soup 4

When I was sent a review copy of Delicious Food Editor Valli Little’s new book Quick Smart Cook I flicked through it eagerly and my gaze fell upon one dish in particular. You know I love quirky and putting a twist on anything and this dish put a twist on one of my favourite dishes, the Caesar Salad. It was a Caesar Salad Soup. Like a lot of Modern Australian cuisine Quick Smart Cook borrows spices and flavours from different cultures. There’s Moroccan style fish with chermoula, Blue eye with Spanish crumbs, Baja Fish Tacos, Baked Whole Salmon with Wasabi Tartare, Salmon with tomato and coconut sambal, Salmon baklava with dill butter – and that is just the fish section. Other sections use Scandinavian, Egyptian, Thai French, China, Italian and there is even a recipe for verrines which are very now.

quick smart cook cover

Then there are the items I have bookmarked like prawns with bacon mayo (you know me and bacon), Instant Fondue with roast vegetables, Thai Lobster curry, salt and pepper squid and chips (the long matchstick chips are very cute), Lavender Panna cotta with Lavender shards, White chocolate mojito cheesecakes and probably my favourite named tart: the Forrest Gump tart for Mr NQN who loved the movie.

forrest gump cake

Forrest Gump tart. Life is like a box of chocolates no?

One thing that is different with this cookbook is that every single recipe has a large picture right next to it. You’ve probably heard me gristle about photos and I’m a visual person and the first thing that sets off my food lust is photographs. It’s a very simple process for me: if it makes my mouth water, I want to make it and I post it note it straight away. So fellow food porn afficianados this is good stuff indeed. Photos have clean, clear styling which is simple.

flower pizza

A Summer pizza

Chapters are organised by ingredient e.g. eggs, cheese, pasta, fish etc although there is a separate chapter for starters, breakfasts, vegetarian, low fat , desserts and ices. There aren’t any cooking or prep times though all recipes are designed to be quick and easy (hence the name). For ideas and quick ones at that and ones that are entirely doable and don’t require extraordinary cooking skills, this is a fantastic book.

lobster curry

Lobster curry

Back to the soup (recipe at the end), because I know you’ll be rather fascinated by it. It was easy to make indeed and I do happen to love anchovies in moderation so I was sure to add some. For those of you familiar with Chinese cuisine, cooked lettuce is no big deal at all and is in fact rather good but the idea of cooking an ingreident that is usually eaten raw can be mystifying to others. It’s a moot point really, the lettuce flavour was relatively mild in it and the soup resembled more of a delicious pea and ham soup with some sour cream. I found that I enjoyed it with more sour cream (although that’s no surprise is it as I love sour cream).

caesar salad soup 2

Summary:

Achievability: 4.5 out of 5
Usability: 4 out of 5
Degree of difficulty: Easy-Medium
Food porn score: 4.5 out of 5. Oh joy to have a large photo of every single recipe!
Post it note tabbed recipes: 16
Gift book: Yes, especially for the time poor but stylish Modern Australian home cook

And Valli has signed 4 copies of her new book and I am giving them away! All you need to do is tell me what is your quickest or smartest recipe.

**THE LUCKY WINNERS OF THE QUICK SMART COOK GIVEAWAY ARE:

ANNE C.

NATALIE D.

JENNIFER L.

JACKIE W.

CONGRATULATIONS AND ENJOY YOUR BOOK!**

The giveaway ends midnight January 16th 2010 AEST. Enter as a comment on this story and this giveaway is open to Australian residents only.

Quick Smart Cook by Valli Little is published by ABC Books and retails for $39.99

Scroll down for the Caesar Salad Soup recipe.

Menu For Hope

File-1

I received an email from the dapper Ed from Tomatom asking if I’d like to take part in this year’s Menu For Hope. I had joined in a couple of years ago and it’s a great cause. It’s an international campaign which relies on the generosity of food bloggers sourcing or donating prizes that will be used to sell virtual raffle tickets. Over two weeks, the general public have the chance to buy virtual raffle tickets for the prize of their choice for US$10 each. You will be able to purchase tickets between December 14 – 25. Any donations after this date will not qualify for entry into a prize raffle so do get in quick :) All donations will be collected by a third party, the online fundraising company First Giving.

sir stamford pink high tea sweets

My last prize was a set of Nigella Lawson cooking utensils and I always feel like a prize or gift should reflect the giver and recipient. Since I don’t know the recipient I thought that it should at least reflect me. The first thing I thought of food-wise was Afternoon Tea, something that I love to do and I recently went to the Sir Stamford’s Pink High Tea in October which was full of lovely little morsels, tea and a wonderful atmosphere and the Sir Stamford Hotel has kindly donated a Traditional Afternoon Tea for Two lucky people worth $80!

sir stamford pink high tea tea

Prize code: AP11
Prize detail: A Traditional Afternoon Tea for Two at the Sir Stamford, Circular Quay.

sir stamford pink high tea tiers 2

The above is the Pink High Tea which is slightly different as it was a one off High Tea but please see my previous story on the regular Sir Stamford Traditional High Tea

To Donate and Enter the Menu for Hope Raffle

Here’s what you need to do:

1. Choose a bid item or bid items of your choice from our Menu for Hope main bid item list.

2. Go to the donation site at Firstgiving and make a donation.

3. Please specify which bid item you’d like in the ‘Personal Message’ section in the donation form when confirming your donation. You must write-in how many tickets per bid item, and please use the bid item code. Each US$10 you donate will give you one raffle ticket toward a bid item of your choice. For example, a donation of US$50 can be 2 tickets for EU01 and 3 tickets for EU02 – 2xEU01, 3xEU02.

4. If your company matches your charity donation, please check the box and fill in the information so we could claim the corporate match. (This isn’t relevant to Australian bidders)

5. Please check the box to allow us to see your email address so that we can contact you in case you win. Your email address will not be shared with anyone.

Read more: http://www.tomatom.com/#ixzz0ZwZYF6IS

Caesar Salad Soup

Serves 4-6

  • 6 pancetta slices (I used bacon)
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 1-2 anchovy fillets, chopped (optional)
  • 1 potato (about 200g), peeled, chopped
  • 3 cups (750ml) chicken stock
  • 200g frozen peas
  • 1 cos lettuce, outer leaves discarded, thinly shredded
  • 1/4 cup (20g) grated parmesan, plus extra to serve
  • 2 tablespoons sour light cream
  • Toasted Sourdough croutons, to serve
  • 1. Preheat the oven to 200C. Lay 4 slices of pancetta on a baking tray, then cover with a sheet of baking paper and top with another tray to keep it flat. Place in the oven and bake for 10 minutes until crisp, then break into shards and set aside for serving.

    bacon baked

    2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Chop the remaining pancetta and add to the pan with the onion, garlic and anchovy and cook for 2-3 minutes until onion has softened. Add the potato and stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 10 minutes until potato has softened.

    soup blender

    3. Add the peas and lettuce and simmer for 2 minutes until the lettuce has wilted. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. Stir in the parmesan and season, then use a stick blender to puree the soup until smooth (or cool slightly, then puree in batches in a blender and return to the pan). Warm through over low heat or serve chilled. Divide among bowls, drizzle with sour cream, then serve with crisp pancetta shards, croutons and extra parmesan.

    caesar salad soup 1

Manna From Heaven Lemon Polenta Cakes, a Book Review & Win 1 of 5 Copies!

lemon polenta cake manna from heaven 2

I’m very familiar with Manna’s Lemon Polenta Cakes. I first tried one  years and years ago and as a bit of a lemon fiend I fell for them instantly. They were almost bite sized (although I’d make them last for 2-3 bites). I’m good at making food last. When  was young we rarely got potato chips and when we would (chicken, crinkle cut of course) I’d eat the chip crinkle by crinkle trying to prolong the flavour whilst simultaneously trying my mother’s patience as I’d take a good 10 minutes to eat a bowl of chips. So making these petite baby cakes last 2-3 bites long is child’s play.

icing cakes

These lemon cakes are sold at cafes and delis everywhere an are as ubiquitous as the other symbol of Australian cafe food, Portuguese custard tarts. When I was contacted about reviewing the book the first question I asked was whether the lemon cake recipe featured and sure enough, it was and better still it was a simple recipe! The other  great thing is that I can imagine you could do this cake with all other types of citrus like orange, lime, blood orange or mandarin or even other tart fruit like passionfruit. It’s a sturdy, easy to bake recipe as as Rachel says freezes well and is very firm so it can withstand all sorts of decorations on top as well as being gluten free.

manna from heaven cookbook cover

As for the rest of the book, her story writes like a dream. Whilst living in North Bondi, Rachel Grisewood started making her now famous chocolate crunch slice where it would be sold out of the back of her small Volkswagon. Years later her goods are now sold in cafes, delis and in stores nationwide and on Qantas First and Business Class flights. Now she is onto her fifth kitchen and has a staff of 30 that lunches together every day.

manna cupcake

Her love of colour carries through the whole book with pinks and oranges, and icing sugar doily imprints stamped throughout the book. Recipes are of course rather sweet based (she apparently starts her daughter Olive’s day with chocolate and ends it with marshmallow) with an emphasis on biscuits. She generously shares her recipes for Chocolate Crunch and emon Polenta cake, her two outstanding sellers. Measurements are given in metric and imperial-even egg weight is given in quantities, then metric and then imperial so exactists will appreciate that.

manna from heaven cookbook cat

Chapters are organised into things such as “Once Upon a Time” and and “Everything but the Kitchen Sink” and each chapter opens up with a page from Rachel with an explanation. Some sections are self explanatory such as “Cooking for family and friends” and “Having my cake and eating it too” but some are less easy to decipher the logic of. Many of the recipes are sweet so perhaps it was a way to organise a lot of sweet recipes into whimsical chapters. A quote of hers that appears in the book reads “That’s how Life is-all higgledy piggledy and certainly not perfect” and I assume some chapters are organised in a similar way. There are savoury dishes and items such as Duck Ragu with Papardelle look particularly good along with other cafe or bistro style savoury dishes. There’s a sense of humour there too with recipes such as “Stick It Up Your Date Cake” which I wanted to make just for the name and should I ever be required to make a cake for someone I don’t particularly like I’ll just call it “Lovely Date Cake” in a passive aggressive fashion.

manna from heaven cookbook crunch

The Chocolate Crunch bar

The only thing that I didn’t lust for was the photography as some of the photographs seemed almost blurry or oddly focused which is strange as I’ve loved photographer Adrian Lander’s photographs in other cookbooks. It’s all rather home style styling (see Simple Sponge and Olive’s Leaning tower of Pisa cake)  which is nice as it’s all achievable but I prefer a bit of aspiration to photographs. More importantly, there’s also not enough photographs to keep me interested which is possibly why there are less post it notes that usual.

manna from heaven cookbook chocolate bars

Chocolate bars with hazelnuts and prunes; raspberry and passionfruit coconut ice and white chocolate, frangelico and hazelnut truffles

Still, there’s a huge assortment of sweets and goodies and the ones that interested me particularly were items that I could bake and give to friends with Christmas coming up. They’re not overly fussy or delicate items so they’re ideal to pack up and give to people but they are the kind of things that will have your friends praising your Domestic Goddessery. And Dear Friends of mine, it is very likely that you will receive some of these goodies for Christmas!

Summary:
Achievability: 4.5 out of 5
Usability: 4 out of 5
Degree of difficulty: Easy-Medium
Food porn score: 2.5 out of 5. I didn’t go for a lot of the photography and there weren’t enough photographs to keep a food porn enthusiast like me happy.
Post it note tabbed recipes: 7
Gift book: Yes, if you like biscuits particularly and are already a Manna addict. The recipes feature items that are perfect for Christmas baking gifts if you like to bake your presents.

cookbook biscuits

And I know I promised you a giveaway and this one’s a goodie. You can flick through the pages of the Manna from heaven cookbook whilst nibbling on some Manna from Heaven cookies from their Cookie Jar! Life doesn’t get much better does it? All you need to do is tell me the name of your favourite biscuit or cookie and why it is your favourite.

The giveaway ends midnight December 19th AEST. Enter as a comment on this story and this giveaway is open to Australian residents only.

***The Lucky Winners of the Manna from Heaven giveaway are:

Alison S.

Stefania M.

Kristina G.

Sara ***


Manna From Heaven  is published by Allen & Unwin $59.99RRP

Lemon Polenta Cakes

manna from heaven cookbook lemon polenta cake 5

  • 225g/7 1/8 oz butter at room temperature
  • 225g/7 1/8 oz caster or superfine sugar
  • 3 eggs (165g/5 1.2 oz) lightly beaten
  • 110g /3 3/4oz ground almond
  • 110g /3 3/4oz shredded coconut long thread
  • 110g /3 3/4oz fine polenta
  • finely grated zest of 2 lemon
  • 2.5 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or extract

Icing

  • 225g/ 71/8oz icing confectioner’s sugar, sieved
  • 2-3 teaspoons lemon juice
  • Sugar flowers to decorate (optional)

lemon dry

1. Set the oven to 150c/300F. If making this as a large cake grease and line a 24cm (9.5 inch) round cake tin or if you are using mini muffin trays, butter them well and place a little square or circle of parchment on the base as shown to prevent any sticking. Cream the butter and sugar in an electric mixer for 2 minutes or until lump free (the mixture does not need to be light and fluffy). Slowly beat in the eggs, the fold in the ground almonds, polenta, lemon zest, lemon juice, baking powder and vanilla.

two thirds full

Fill them 2/3 or 3/4 of the way up

cakes baked

The baked cakes

2. Pour into cake tin. If you are using a mini muffin tray fill them 2/3 of the way up. Use the back of a spoon to flatten the top. Bake for 20-25 minutes for mini muffins or 30-50 minutes for a whole cake until they are just coming away from the side of the tin. Remove the squares of parchment.

cakes removed from tin

3. To make the icing,  mix the sieved icing sugar and lemon juice in a bowl until smooth. Spoon over the cake/s letting the icing dribble down the sides a bit. Leave the icing to set.

manna from heaven cookbook lemon polenta 3