
I’ve mentioned a few times that I’m not a particularly religious person but if I were to aspire to Sainthood for any reason it would probably be to a food related saint. Saint of Foolproof Recipes anyone? The pastry I made today was named after Saint Honoré, the patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs.

I had somewhat of a success with the Religieuse, something that I frankly thought I’d never make. Ask me one year ago when I was busy chowing down on one amid much orgasmic murmuring and moans and I would have looked at you like you had suggested I use instant mash potatoes. I would have been horrified at the thought of trying to make these. But time makes some people wiser or in my case, more foolish and riskier and so I entered my teenage years of pastry where I wanted to try anything and everything to do with making pastry from scratch.

The bottom choux weren’t quite as puffy and didn’t hold their puff as much as the smaller ones. And if you’re scared at all, know that the star piped whipped cream, like a black dress, hides a multitude of sins. I know that tradtionally this would be made with a Chiboust cream but I have to confess that I’m addicted to creme patisserie and prefer this slightly over Chiboust cream. I apologise for the lack of in progress photos while making these. I was by myself and found it difficult to switch between creating and taking photos.

Was it worth the trouble? Absolutely. There is something so decadent and lusciously delectable about a St Honoré that like childbirth (so I hear), the result is so glorious that you forget any sort of pain you may have experienced.
So tell me Dear Reader, what to you is painful but worth it?

And because it’s Wallpaper Wednesday again, allow me to give you, the Ricotta, Chive & Tomato tart Wallpaper! Happy Hump Day
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August 12, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

Sashimi porn-yes.
I should start off with a warning about portions at Sushi Suma. Only visit here if you are starving, and even then only go if you’ve taken the precautionary measures and arranged for an emergency stomach compartment or a switch with your dessert tank. Servings here are legendarily huge and service, well it’s an in and out, stuff-em-full sort of place. Four Supermodels could probably share a dinner box and I am including those annoying Supermodels that keep telling us “Oh yes I hardly ever diet! I eat as much as I want”.

This evening we are supposed to meet Rose and Ronald at 6.30pm but we are 15 minutes late. Rose and Ronald have been kicked off their table downstairs in the restaurant and have been asked to wait upstairs in the bar area. We are given a copy of the menu and we order the items upstairs with the no nonsense man with the keypad. In order to expedite turnover, orders are taken upstairs and when the food and table are ready, diners are guided downstairs. Despite there being a bar and having a captive, waiting (and thirsty) audience, there is no bar service as the no nonsense man (we assume the owner) is busy corralling diners. Luckily we are waiting less than 10 minutes when we are shown downstairs. It’s a curious layout, the dining area is small and the kitchen is comparatively huge – larger than the dining space. As we sit down, with the super tightly laid out tables, Rose comments about how loud it is.

Complimentary Appetiser
This vermicelli noodle salad is lightly seasoned with a sweet, vinegary taste.

Complimentary Agedashi Tofu
The complimentary agedashi tofu is a nice surprise as everyone receives one. It’s delicious and one of the better ones I’ve had with a perfectly seasoned sauce (I often find the sauce isn’t flavoursome enough) but this is just right.

Kaiso Salad $8.80
We’re given our Kaiso salad and the size gives us an indication of things to come. It’s huge with a mound of shredded cabbage and thick and thin seaweed. The seaweed itself isn’t highly seasoned or flavoured but the salad has a light dressing over it and a scattering of sesame seeds.

Cream Croquette with crab meat $6.80
The items I went crazy for in Tokyo were Cream Croquettes. These are small croquettes filled with the creamiest potato. I can’t really see or taste any crab meat but I do see a couple of corn kernels.
Other diner’s plates are set down next to us and we are aghast at how big they are. The Katsu meal at the table next to us had 8 huge pieces of katsu and their Tempura had a large variety of food. We see why the sizes are legendary.

Sushi Deluxe $16.80
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July 15, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

Why is that when you’re in the middle of piping or beating, does the phone ring or the courier buzz your apartment? This happened to me 3 times while I was making these. The first time happened when I was beating the mixture by hand and the second and third time happened when I was piping the choux and filling the piping bag.

The recipe comes from Adriano Zumbo, Sydney’s very own pastry god who recently appeared on Masterchef Australia twice, the first time was for a Croquembouche challenge. Croquembouches are something I intend to conquer one day – and I do look upon it as conquering as it’s as tall and intimidating as a mountain as evidenced by the contestant’s versions which more resembled leaning towers of Pisa.
These delicacies called a Religieuse due to the resemblance to a Nun. I take a slightly different interpretation of the name due to the amount of uncharacteristic praying I did when I a) beat the mix and b) put them in the oven and c) when I took them out of the oven to realise that yes indeed they worked! There is a certain amount of praying to the pastry gods that occurs for these (and macarons). I took these to Gravy Beard’s birthday as the theme was bring food and drink from a country and I chose France. I was delighted to hear The Second Wife and Naomi utter “Fat Nuns!” when they saw it. I know they’re not a patch on Laduree’s Religieuse but I was comforted that they could see the resemblance.

Anyway, given the timing Happy Bastille Day! Bastille Day was always something that my High School celebrated. I’m not quite sure why as we weren’t a French school. Perhaps it was the chance to eat Pain au Chocolat and croissants for brunch.

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July 14, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

No rest assured the name isn’t a dig at the English, but this Eton Mess is Pommy due to the inclusion of Pomegranates. I bought some Pomegranates – they make a wonderful table decoration thanks Colin Cowie, and of course my favourite part of it was eating them afterwards. Some of my lovely readers have steered me towards the easiest way to remove the Pomegranate seeds after I talked about Nigella’s way being possibly the messiest and least effective way of removing them. Just cut the Pomegranates in quarters and soak them in cold water for 10 minutes, bend back the skins and the seeds will be a cinch to pry off.

Originally Eton Mess was said to be a dessert served at Eton College’s Annual Prize giving celebration picnic event held at the end of May. Ice cream expert Robin Weir, spoke to Eton’s librarian who said that it was served in the 1930’s “sock shop” or tuck shop/school cafeteria. And like many legends from the past, there’s certainly a lot of stories, one of which is that the reason for its messy “squashed” appearance is due to a Labrador accidentally sitting on a picnic basket on the way to the picnic.
This is a really simple dessert really. Especially if you buy the meringue nests which of course I would have done but you know me, I love to make things from scratch (call it a sickness). I like a bit more meringue in my Eton Mess than the usual person so feel free to leave out a bit of the meringue content. I felt making meringue with only 1 egg white was not enough but 2 egg whites might possibly be overkill so use as much or as little as you like. I know that it’s usually made with strawberries but please allow me some poetic license.

And I know that here in Australia we are in the throes of Winter having just barely survived our first month but this is also for you lucky people in the Northern Hemisphere who are lucky enough to be basking in the warmth of Summer. For my fellow Antipodeons, perhaps this is something to look forward to come Spring in seven week’s time. I’m counting it down.
So tell me Dear Reader, what do you look forward to in Summer or are you currently enjoying about Summer if you happen to be in the Northern Hemisphere?
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July 5, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

Every cuisine has their late night food. The food that whilst perfectly good during the daytime, tastes even better after a long, late night and is best enjoyed when your memory of it and whoever you kissed is fleeting and when your stomach craves something buttery or greasy to balance the alcohol within it.

Greece’s late night food looks almost too damn pretty to give it a tag of “late night food” (click here for an example of a late night monstrosity I had in Finland called the Kannibal). No greasy kebab or pie, it’s a delicious custard filled filo pasty parcel. I first heard about this from a Greek friend and my interest intensified when I started talking to David Tsirekas from Perama restaurant, a restaurant that I visited only the other night. He’d twitter tempting things such as “making mandarin bougatsa” and I’d be urged to bump this to the top of my “to make” list, a messy scrawled piece of paper that I’ve clipped to my teapot wall calendar. I knew of course that I wasn’t going to make the filo from scratch and my version wouldn’t be as amazing as his but I persevered.

These were very, very good. I wouldn’t be so presumptuous to say that they were as good as the ones at Perama but if you want to make your own version at home, say late at night when the clock strikes midnight, these will certainly do. I loved the crunchiness of the buttery, light filo and the softness of the oozing vanilla and lemon custard.

And yep you guessed it. It’s Wallpaper Wednesday! How about some Bannoffee Peanut Butter cups? I’m sure we’ve all made a quick version of this late at night with a spoon, some chocolate and a jar of peanut butter!
So tell me Dear Reader, what is your favourite late night food either at home or when you are out? A kebab? A pie? A friend used to get the urge to make wedges at midnight. What’s yours?
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June 24, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella