Category Archives: Pies & Tarts

Turducken: The Method To Some Sort of Madness

turducken christmas recipe

It is sitting in front of me face down, haunches up, goading me. I pry the legs apart but they modestly snap back together. It is a beautiful specimen and I hold up a knife to the goose fleshed skin and it retracts and follows the sharp blade. “Aren’t you a pretty one?” I say to it quietly.

“Do it, do it” it says back to me.

I grab a pair of shears, run my fingers down its backbone feeling the knobs of bone and cartilage against my fingers and murmur “This won’t hurt a bit dear” before savagely slicing through it’s skin and bone with the shears. It’s a particularly brutal act, made even more difficult by the size of the beast at over 7 kilos but it’s a necessary one. Although once I started cutting with the shears I wondered whether I had done the right thing. After hacking back and forth through the thick bone I remove the backbone and connected neck with a triumph raising it high but feeling like a serial killer at the same time that has eviscerated someone.

I haven’t turned Dexter. I’m making a turducken. For Christmas in July of course. Northern Hemispherans might wonder what on earth Christmas in July is and as far as I know, it is a Southern Hemispheran’s way of celebrating Christmas when our weather is at its coldest. Instead of our usual hot Summer’s Christmas of salads and seafood, having on in July means that having things such as baked mega turkeys make sense.

What is a turducken? Well you may have heard of it mostly in America which is the land of over the top excess (which is incidentally why I would love to live there ;) ). It’s origins are originally Ancient Roman and it was then taken up by the French in the 1800s, in a dish called a “Rôti Sans Pareil” or “Roast without Equal.” A large deboned bird is stuffed with progressively smaller, deboned birds the smallest being tiny enough to fit an olive in and nothing else. This version, a more user friendly version made popular recently, is a deboned turkey stuffed with a deboned duck stuffed with a deboned chicken, hence the name Tur-Duck-En as a portmanteau of the three bird’s names.

turducken christmas recipe

I was sent a glorious free range Thirlmere turkey and cranberries from the U.S. cranberry institute and if I had any sense I would have simply roasted it whole along with some lovely cranberry stuffing. But because I am something of a masochist for punishment (and it turns out also a sadist considering what I did with the turkey) my inner Franck Eggelhoffer came out and said “Let’s make zis a Christmas in July to remember! Ja? Faaabulous!”

Queen Viv and her son Michael and his fiancee Terri who were here on holidays were invited along to come along. A day before I decided to brine the turkey to keep it moist. Since I was sent the turkey I couldn’t ask for them to debone it for me. I had deboned quails before and spatchcocks and they were, anatomically speaking, a smaller version of the turkey. So I knew my way around them but I also knew that as a vastly larger bird it would require strength that my upper body doesn’t possess readily. I really needed Dexter or Jack the Ripper to do it.

turducken christmas recipe

In the absence of a serial killer friend I set aside a large space on my workbench and cut and sliced away. It took about 30-40 minutes all up to debone the seven kilo beast but that was including time to wash my hands and take photographs. After huffing, puffing, swearing, pushing and pulling I removed the final touch, the wishbone triumphantly and plunged the turkey into its brining solution made up basically of salt, sugar, apple cider vinegar and whatever herbs I had handy and some black peppercorns. The brining solution would help to keep the meat moist. Afterwards I slumped down at my desk exhausted clutching a glass of something stiff (for me an apple juice and soda water, I needed my wits about me).

Click here to read the full story

The Mad Mock Apple Pie Made From Ritz Crackers. Yes, Really!

ritz apple pie recipe

Mr NQN and I were sitting down and having dinner with my parents when he casually mentioned that he was thinking of doing the half marathon.

We all stared at him and put our cutlery down.

Swallowing hard we all asked in unison “Why?”

If there was any doubt I was their child it was all too apparent in the matters of all things sporty and expending energy. Mr NQN tried to explain to us how it was a physical challenge and that it would be an achievement to run a half marathon.

“But you might get hurt” my mother said.

“You might get run over” my father said.

“You might have to actually run” I said.

ritz apple pie recipe

Fast forward to a few weeks later when I decided to make a Ritz cracker apple pie. I thought it was Queen Viv that had told me about it but turns out it wasn’t (edited to add it was @TudorGrrrl on twitter). Well, whoever it was said that they had tried one and apparently it’s quite a famous recipe. It is when the filling, an entirely apple-less concoction somehow goes from looking like crushed Ritz crackers to soft apple pie filling.

“Why are you making a mock apple pie out of Ritz crackers when we have apples in the fridge?” Mr NQN asked me

“Because I like making weird stuff and because I can” I answered (for evidence see Exhibit 1: Bacon Jam).

I was of course intrigued by this recipe. By the mere fact that somehow, slightly savoury Ritz crackers somehow morphed into an apple filling with the addition of a sugar syrup. Surely this was as close to culinary sea monkeys as you could get. And my thoughts immediately turned to who on earth discovered this in the first place and how. The many comments from people that had tried the recipe attested to the fact that somehow under that pie carapace, something happens and the crackers turn into an apple filling. Many loved the fact that it meant that they didn’t have to peel and core apples anymore.

ritz apple pie recipe

It goes from this filling…

Click here to read the full story

Serpent’s Coil Pastry With Spinach & Feta

serpent coil recipe

Girl meets pastry.

Girl eats pastry.

Girl gets on treadmill.

This is the story of my life currently. Yes Dear Readers, I have finally got myself a treadmill (I was gifted a dormant one from my parent’s house). I realised that sitting at home eating pastries was not the best way to stay in the same size bracket and that I had to literally get off my ass if I wanted to stay within the small clothing range. Humph.

serpent coil recipe

The motivation was a fashion spread for Nine to Five magazine. Now understand that calls to feature in fashion spreads have never graced my inbox before. People do not come a knocking on my door asking me to wear clothes for a living. The closest that I came to it was the ad for Cornetto. I was suddenly going to have to put in place all that I (didn’t) learn from watching ANTM. I was unfortunately missing about 1 foot of height among many other essentials.

The day that the email came in from them was unfortunately the day I happened to brush 200grams of butter on 14 sheets of pastry and bake them in the oven. It wasn’t the best day for the invitation to come in although I do think that something was looking out for me in that it came before I had raised the pastry to my mouth to try it. The serpent pastry sat there, in it’s bronzed coiled glory tempting me, hypnotising me.

The devil on one shoulder said

“It’s got a vegetarian filling, it’s practically healthy!”

And the angel on the other shoulder said:

“Hardly, given the amount of butter you’ve used!”

serpent coil recipe

Click here to read the full story

Fruit Of The Forest Tart

For the last few months, while I was writing the book, I gave up ironing. It wasn’t much of a change, I was hopeless at it and if it were a paid job, I’m sure I would have been fired. Mr NQN being a modern man whose mother never owned an iron or an ironing board didn’t seem too bothered at first. After all he has two perfectly good arms that he could iron with. I felt like I had somehow managed to juggle things without losing any points and I scored myself a couple of hours time that I would have spent ironing and I used them to work on the book some more.

As the year goes on and things get busier coming up to Christmas (arrgh it’s coming like a steamtrain!) I am often finding sneaky ways to try and juggle housework with actual work. I have a real aversion to mess whereas Mr NQN can’t see it at all and will happily sit on top of piles of paper and have melted ice creams lying about in uncovered bowls overnight. I often say that he is in need of a butler or a maid-and that I’m neither. However when I announced that I was about to do the first lot of ironing in a while he actually looked delighted and asked if I would iron his shirts. *Le sigh*.

fruit of the forest tart

One thing I’m not quite willing to give up is making pastry. I do have a stash of the frozen stuff from the supermarket in the freezer but I prefer to make my own. The Forrest Gump saying “Life is like a box of chocolates”  applies somewhat here. “Life is like a pastry buffet” it should say and I am forever trying to find the “perfect” pastry. This tart is from the Phaidon Recipes From An Italian Summer cookbook I was sent. It is a collection of recipes gathered by the Italian The Silver Spoon authors. As soon as I saw it I was taken by the photos of the berries on the tart.

In my haste to make it, I hadn’t read over the instruction simply asking Mr NQN to pick up some raspberries, strawberries and blueberries. Once I stood in my kitchen and read through the recipe I was wary. The pastry didn’t seem to need to be rested and the consistency of it wasn’t quite rollable. And baking creme patissiere was new for me. Wouldn’t that make it hard and rubbery? I thought custard tarts used freshly cooked custard in a fully baked shell. The dimensions of the tart didn’t seem quite right either and they called for a 40cms tart tin which is absolutely huge. Mine was a mere 22cms and that produced a sizeable enough tart to feed at least 8-10 people.

fruit of the forest tart

Click here to read the full story

Beetroot and Walnut Tarte Tatin for Two

We were talking about Golden Books the other day. I got to reminiscing about my favourite ones and I recall my very favourite ever Golden Book was one called Elephant on Wheels. It was about an elephant who loved to roller skate. I loved it because I was forever being told not to do something by my parents. I have always hated being told what to do and so did this elephant Petunia. So she hid her roller skates in clever little places like in the garden as a bunch of flowers, the shower curtain rail and anywhere else that she could find. I admired how ingenious she was.

Rebelliousness aside – and that’s a bigger story, I loved her cunning. It’s a similar cunning and adoration for pastry that has me seeking out even more ways to eat pastry.  I’m sure you’re all familiar with the apple tarte tatin. I’m a little too familiar with it if you know what I mean. Give me an pastry dessert and I turn into a dessert seeking missile. But tarte tatin can also be done as a savoury dish.

beetroot tart tatin

I found this recipe in the new Serge Dansereau cookbook “French Kitchen” where he cooks food that is made for home cooking ($59.95 by Harper Collins and look out for a giveaway soon ;) ). Isn’t it funny how quickly time passes. When we went to his Bathers Pavilion SIFF event last year he was talking about writing the book and now a year later here it is. Everyone discussed how much people wanted to do home cooking ever since Masterchef hit our shores (and now the kid version is here-how scarily good are these kids?).

beetroot tart tatin

Click here to read the full story