Mr NQN often complains that I’m always in a hurry. I always complain that he’s always in a dream like trance and every trip involves me herding him to get ready “We’re running late! Are you ready?” is often a cry of mine. However this evening, I’m in no hurry at all.

It’s the first night of the Sydney Festival and there’s a tell tale excitement in the air. People are in good moods and the weather is balmy. And we’re positioned right on the water at Woolloomooloo Bay wharf at the bar at Manta and settled into a deep banquette lounge. And I’m not moving. A boat sails past pumping dance music with people dancing on the bow. Later, a boat cruises past with the entire thirty of so passengers singing Happy Birthday. Hundreds of people walk past and provide us with copious amounts of eye candy and entertainment.

Manta ‘angel’ chips with truffle oil and parmesan $15.5

I have learned the hard way that I am a very cheap drunk. So for me to have a cocktail I must have food and food that can soak up alcohol or I’ll soon be climbing up on one of those boats. The angel chips do the trick. Last time we ate at Manta they were a little too rich as we had them along with a huge steak and lobster but outside of this they’re just what I need. They are generously coated with truffle salsa and parmesan and the chips are golden and crunchy (although the chips at the bottom don’t get that moreish blanket of parmesan)

Manta Martini $16

The Manta martini is filled with freshly crushed lychees and lemongrass syrup shaken with Belvedere vodka and apple juice, served straight up martini style. It’s very strong and fruity with a distinct Asian flavour to it from the lychee and to a lesser extent the lemongrass which is more subtle.

Asian bellini

The Asian bellini has lychee liqueur, champagne and watermelon liqueur at the bottom. Once stirred, and the watermelon liqueur does have the tendency to settle, it is sweet, bubbly and giggle making.

A dozen oysters $49

There are usually three varieties of oyster but being oysters, a couple of them aren’t at their best so we have two oysters to choose from. There is the Sydney Rock from Moreton Bay and Sydney Rock from Port Stephens. They both taste quite different. At Manta they explain that they are all freshly shucked and never under running water, just brushed to get any grit or shell out if there is any. So the oysters taste like the sea brine. The Moreton bay are subtler in flavour with a more straight briney taste whereas the Port Stephens oysters have myriad flavours from the sea. And you can order them on the muscle if you would like.

Ocean trout roe – 30g $38

There are three types of caviar available, the ocean trout roe ($38), oscietra ($165) and beluga ($265) per one ounce serve. It’s an item that they don’t sell a lot of as most people don’t go for it. But not me, I love caviar borne of having a Russian friend in High School. Her parents spent a small fortune buying caviar and she was nonplussed about the stuff whereas I loved visiting her and getting a taste of caviar. This caviar is the ocean trout roe so technically not caviar but roe. The beads are small and firm on the outside which makes me quite hard to pop and there isn’t a great deal of the salty nectar inside. I have to admit that I didn’t really go for this roe as I love the gentle popping and resultant explosion of salty caviar. It is served with sour cream tiny radish batons and diced cucumber on thinly sliced bread that is not quite crouton, not quite fresh bread.

Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio, capers, shaved fennel, radish, orange $19

I recall adoring this dish last time but this time it is fresh but is a bit bland in comparison as there isn’t enough salt to bring out the lovely flavour of the kingfish (last time there were different accompaniments).

Summer Breeze $16

The summer breeze cocktail is a long, icey drink of sweet berries and is eminently drinkable. It’s a blend of fresh watermelon, blueberries and raspberries shaken with cranberry juice, Belvedere vodka and Chambord. And for those that don’t drink very much, the sweetness of the cranberry juice and berries makes this easily downed and as the name suggests, perfect for hot evenings like this.

Pineapple Sorbet Mojito $16

I equally adored the pineapple sorbet mojito as it was full of fresh mint and pineapple flavours. There was fresh mint and pineapple sorbet with lime and sugar, Havana Bianco rum, served over ice, topped with soda water. Another refreshing drink for summer.

Suddenly the heavens open up-not rain my dear readers but the shades pull back to give us a glorious view of the last half hour of light before darkness descends. And did you know that the shades along all of the restaurants are controlled by a little wind measure that sits atop some of the poles? I had to ask because I was curious as all of the shades along the wharf pulled back at once.

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I take a look at my schedule for the day when I wake up.

7:30am: wakeup, cup of tea

8:00-9:30am: get ready

10am Desserts at Tomislav

Please understand that not all of my days start with dessert at 10am (although I do wonder why more don’t). And also I don’t take 1.5 hours to get ready (it takes me 35 minutes) but I do potter about and do other things like clean up after Mr NQN’s hurricane in the morning (today I found an apple and a sock on the rug). And what am I doing today? I am getting a dessert Masterclass with chef Tomislav Martinovic. He is going to show me how to make two of his signature desserts and he will explain the inspiration behind them.

Chef Tomislav Martinovic

Siphon canister refills

“Whenever I think of cheesecake, I think of the Sara Lee French vanilla cheesecake” Tomislav says when he starts putting together the cheesecake. Of course having worked for Heston Blumenthal and having a kitchen full of boy’s toys and gadgets it’s not exactly going to be the same cheesecake. It starts off the usual way, with cream cheese but this cream cheese is beaten for 10 minutes to become totally smooth. He adds the vanilla to the cream cheese and mixes it together giving it a thickened cream consistency. Easy!

The nitrogen cartridge

On the left a blob using only one catridge and on the right using two nitrogen cartidges

Now comes the fun bit. He takes out his siphon canister (as you do) and loads one nitrogen cartridge and shakes it. He dispenses a small blob and it’s still to soft so he inserts another and shakes it and presto, the correct light as air whipped cream consistency. These siphon canisters are available at most chef’s specialty stores and retail for about $140 and a pack of 10 nitrogen cartidges costs $5.50.

The base is a delectable nutty biscuit made nuttier by using beurre noissette (browned butter) and about an equal ratio of melted butter to digestive biscuit. Sorry to deliver the fattening news

“It’s all about what housewives use” Tomislav says and that is why they use McVitie’s digestives.  He explains that the technique and making something that is not usually possible to make at home is what keeps diners coming. Another trick to his dessert is using salt in all of them to balance the sweetness and that his desserts are not excessively sweet. He shows me how to plate up the cheesecake. The base is a cut out round of the butter and biscuit crumbs and any extra are spooned under the rhubarb compote which is cooked but still retains a bite to it.

He pops in some cream cheese jelly cubes and it’s ready. I don’t need much prompting to try this dessert. It was my favourite dessert here and I’m a huge fan of light as air cheesecakes. “Can I finish it all?” I ask eagerly scooping up spoonful after spoonful.

Vanilla Cheesecake

Recipe by Tomslav Martinovic

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It’s funny how life changes. Two years ago I dined at Marcus Wareing’s Petrus restaurant (back when he and Gordon Ramsay were business partners) and we had a fantastic meal where every single little course, including the amuses and in between courses sparkled. It was a meal we remembered well because there wasn’t a single jarring note. We got on the plane back to Australia thinking that it was a lovely memory. Fast forward two years and I find myself the lucky beneficiary of an invitation to a Private Lunch with Marcus Wareing from the lovely people at Visit Britain. Marcus Wareing was of course visiting here as part of the Sydney International Food Festival.

Amuse Bouche: Fish and citrus soup

We take a seat in the private dining room of the Four in Hand Dining Room and we are given our first taste of the day, an amuse bouche. Looks are deceptive. Resembling a carrot or pumpkin soup this elegant little demitasse of fish soup with citrus is deliciously rewarding, given depth with the fish stock and an accent with the citrus flavour.

Sashimi Bonito and tuna with pickled cucumber and snow

I have to admit that the smear wasn’t perhaps the most fetching feature on the plate but underneath the long shreds of pickled cucumber were some delectable sashimi pieces of bonito fish and tuna. I see bonito popping up more on menus nowadays and it’s a lovely, mild flavoured fish. The snow is the tangy green granita in the centre and there are also slices of raw cauliflower and slices of radish. It’s more a sashimi salad and I’m a bit perplexed by the green smear as it has a very mild taste.

I take some photos and then look up and see Marcus watching and smiling. “Are you the actual Not Quite Nigella?” Marcus asks me across the table. He tells us of how he used to ban food bloggers from taking photos until his staff convinced him otherwise. “I’m old fashioned” he says and shows us that he has a phone that is just a phone “and I may sometimes text” he says. His main objection to food blogging is people writing awful things and taking poor quality photographs.

Daisy next to me is a vegetarian and Marcus says that he loves vegetarians. Pardon me? I almost have to ask. Many chefs are known (notoriously Gordon Ramsay who told people he’d like to throw them out of a plane) for disliking vegetarians but Marcus tells us that they have a special vegetarian degustation and want to give them the same quality of meal as an omnivore.

Crisp pig’s ear with crab and roast corn salad nad ginger beer jelly

“Ginger beer jelly?” I say out loud. On the right is a crispy deep fried pig’s ear which is fantastic (and I know you’re going to ask, it doesn’t taste “ear-y” ). I do love corn and this roast corn and crab salad is generously portioned with sweet pieces of crab meat. As for the ginger beer jelly, I like it in small amounts but it’s tangy and sweet and quite strong and it is surrounded by a mayonnaise type of sauce.

Spring Lamb: two ways with Spring Vegetables

In just what has to be the most feast like presentation, the slow cooked shoulder of lamb sits in the centre of the table to be shared between 3-4 people. It’s served with a variety of Dutch carrots in fetching shades of yellow, purple and orange and battered white anchovies. It is also served with what has to be one of the best mashed potatoes I’ve had-they’re silky smooth and creamy and covered in a blanket of herbs . Chef Colin Fassnidge is Irish and at the risk of culturally profiling someone, he definitely has a way with potatoes!

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