The skies are looking ominous…

I look up at the sky and one moment it’s sunny and five minutes later it looks grey. Not the most ideal weather for an outdoor food festival but I’m hoping the gods of fashion look after me and ensure that I don’t get wet. For tonight is the opening night of the Taste of Sydney Festival held in nearby Centennial Park!

From left to right: Matthew Kemp, Justin North and Warren Turnbull

I get there at 4:30pm to see the preparations backstage. I’m expecting the first hour before opening to be frantic much like the final hour before the guests arrive at a dinner party where activity is fraught with panic. Instead, everyone looks casual and relaxed. Justin North from Becasse, Matthew Kemp from Restaurant Balzac and Warren Turnbull from Assiette stand casually chatting before the guests arrive. This year’s Taste of Sydney is 20% bigger than last years and thankfully we see some more places to eat with stand up astroturfed bar tables as well as places to sit and eat. The VIP stand where we’re headed once we have something to eat is full too and closer to the centre of the event. Savoury dishes range from 8-12 crowns and desserts are mostly 8 crowns.

George Francisco unmolds the pannacotta

We head towards the Jonah’s stand where George Francisco shows us how he puts together the famous “wobbly booby” pannacotta. Even after making it for 8 years it still gets a reaction from diners. He shows us the mold, a simple plastic martini glass, slightly higher and taller than a regular one to produce the desired effect. He tells us of how he used to make these using the traditional wide champagne glasses which also appeared like women’s breasts.

At the last Taste of Sydney he sold 2,400 plates of these and it features all year round on the Jonah’s menu at Whale Beach. This means that each week the kitchen has to adjust the recipe slightly to accommodate the differences in temperature. During Summer it melts quicker so it needs slightly more gelatine than in Winter.

Jonah’s: Vanilla Pannacotta with Lavender Honey and Fresh pomegranate 12 crowns

He asks us if we would like a taste and we eagerly dig in. It’s as good as we remembered with just the right amount of crunch from the pomegranates, yielding softness from the wobbly pannacotta and the sweetness from the honey against the tartness of the pomegranates. True to form, later that evening when we see someone else walk past with one, heads turn “What the hell…” someone asks and they all take turns shaking the pannacotta and ogling at the vanilla bean nipple. And they were all girls!

We go to the Becasse stand to check out how they’re doing. They’re making a chocolate souffle for dessert. A souffle? At an outdoor event I ask Justin? “Absolutely confident (fingers crossed) it is a fail safe, twice cooked souffle recipe. We use a very, very unique and amazing local chocolate in the base called Zokoko – it is the best souffle ever!” and invites us to come by later and take a look in the kitchen when they’re busy.

Matt Moran from Aria

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This past weekend, for the first time ever, Sydney hosted The World Chef Showcase. When I first heard about this Chefapalooza I was excited to be invited to it and chose to attend Saturday’s World session featuring many of the world’s rock star chefs. I’m not simply using that as a trite term but some of them are into their music almost as much as their food. Case in point is the 18 guitar owning Spanish chef Sergi Arola, a disciple of Ferran Adria. He worked with Adria for 8 years in his kitchen and melds music with food with art. Just don’t mention the word “Tapas”…

There are three sessions on this Saturday, the first being Thailand/Vietnam, the second being China and the third being World which I am scheduled for. Each in a different room of Star City’s ballrooms and there is round table style seating with a stage at the front where there are two kitchen set-ups. Facing the stage, on the left is the Australian counterpart for the Overseas Chef. The first session today is with Sergi Arola of Gastro restaurant and Brent Savage of Bentley Bar. Matt Preston is at the microphone with his deep, husky voice booming a greeting to all. There are drinks on the table and mints and writing pads provided. The lighting is a little low (so please excuse the photographs).

Sergi’s Coca with Foie Gras and Capsicum

Sergi tells us of his impressions of Australia which start with his first encounter: The Church’s song “Almost With You” which he listened to for 3 days straight. He says that he learnt English through songs like this and interestingly enough, he even had a band called “Los Canguros” (the Kangaroos). He shows us some images from Gastro where the menu changes monthly and the food is strikingly beautiful. At the restaurant bread is made every day using organic flour and he explains the pictures of the Duck hams hanging in the cellar which drives his sommelier spare. There are photos of two kitchens – there are two, one for service and one for mise en place (where they prepare everything to cook). He then introduces us to Torsten his Swedish executive chef whom he says  hails from “The Swedish part of Spain” and whom he says is more Spanish than most Spanish.

Duck hams hanging in the wine cellar

Now his issue with tapas is related to how he feels about customers and eating. “The main part of the restaurant is the guest, not the chef or anyone else “My ego is big but that as (sic) big“. He tells us that the service is the thing that separates the good from exceptional restaurants. He also tells us that “tapas is a way of life” and for Spanish, it is what you have when you’re with friends. He starts to make his first dish, the Ajo Blanco with Cherry Caviar and Asparagus which is made with fresh almond milk cooked for 12-14 hours. He shows us how to make each item telling us his names for certain pieces of equipment like the siphon which he calls “Devil Machine“. He uses tweezers to place everything on the dish, a rather cheffy thing to do to get the right placement.

“I try and make things more simple. Life is so complicated” he says to much nodding among the audience. He is also involved with the Oceana charity and says that he doesn’t use or eat tuna in his restaurant along with shark or turtle. With the duck liver he uses, he says that he only uses a supplier that treats his animals with respect. He also declares that Spanish olive oil is the best olive oil in the world.

His version of Patatas Bravas

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Gordon at the Media conference

Forgive the deliberately provocative title if you will but I was literally waking up with Gordon Ramsay this cold Winter’s Friday morning.  Thanks to the lovely Johanna from Stellar Concepts, at 8:30am several members of Sydney’s press including myself and Helen, assembled in the LG VIP Lounge to have breakfast and to meet Mr Ramsay himself. Walking in and looking tanned and fit in a blue tshirt, he’s nursing a cup of coffee before he gives us a little speech letting us know about the higlights in his Australian visit including a holiday with the family on Hamilton Island and a memorable dinner at Quay. It’s all very cordial and rehearsed and doesn’t really sound like the Ramsay we know and love with none of the edge normally associated with him. At the end, an eager Channel 7 reporter jumps up and asks him “Is your publicist keeping you on a tight leash this time?” which he pointedly ignores. We’re left to ponder what happens next which is Gordon’s first cooking session for the event along with our very generous goodie bags (containing a copy of his book “Healthy Appetite”, LG cooking utensils, a wine bag and some rosemary and oregano olive oil.

We’re seated in row B seat 30 and after the obligatory warm up from Alistair McLeod (beware, don’t put your hand up unless you want to get up and dance in front of everyone!), Gordon and his offsider Stuart Gillies (executive chef at Boxwood Cafe), come out to much applause. Gordon has a strip of tape over his mouth. Yes he knows he needs to behave to avoid another Tracy Grimshaw incident (although that was about as bad as what he said about Lisa Wilkinson and Dannii Minogue at the show last year which passed without controversy so he must be confused as to how far he can take things).

Gordon chats to onstage guests

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