Albert Roux

“I’m French only in passport” Albert Roux says in his French accented English when someone asks him why he chooses to live and work in England. “It’s no secret I’m a royalist, not a republican” he tells a somewhat surprised crowd. Albert Roux, 75 years old leans on his cane and stands in the heart of the open kitchen at the Garden Court restaurant at the Sofitel Wentworth. He is cooking royalty himself (no wonder he is a royalist) and received England’s first Michelin star for his restaurant La Gavroche which he opened with his brother Michel Roux.

There are certain things that you assume would come from the mouth of a French born 3 star Michelin chef. And the talk of eschewing France for England is not one of them. Albert Roux, is refreshingly blunt. And when asked what he thinks of the culinary scene in Australia he gives a frank answer “There’s a bit of confusion” but tempers it with the reasoning that as a country we’re “a baby” and considers it full of promise.

Roux was originally supposed to come over last year but that pesky volcano trouble meant that the trip had to be postponed. He brings with him his own cuisine team and we watch as he holds up a finger and speaks intently to his chef partner Bruno Valette who nods and explains the instructions to others in order to fulfil the request.

Albert Roux and his chef partner Bruno Valette

I’m dining as a guest of Relais & Chateaux which is a hotel association with an emphasis on excellence much like the the Michelin guide is for food. Relais & Chateaux have a range of famous chefs as part of “Grand Chefs Relais” program including Heston Blumenthal, Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud and Australia’s Tetsuya Wakuda . And the night itself is full of surprises. The wines are not French, they’re all Australian wines from South Australia and Victoria. And the food? Many of us were expecting heavy French traditional food but it’s quite modern French indeed with some beautifully skilful sauces so glossy that they cast a reflection.

Oeuf Froid Carème: Artichoke hearts filled with smoked salmon and poached egg, sauce Marie Rose served with Knappstein Three, Clare Valley, 2009

The artichoke heart is a perfect disc of artichoke heart topped with slices of a heavily smoked salmon and a petal of it on top. On top of the salmon is a poached egg with a runny centre and the sauce Marie Rose on the side is a British sauce similar to a mayonnaise and tomato sauce. It’s a nice start, lovely and light with silky, creamy textures from the salmon, egg yolk and sauce Marie Rose.

Dos de Barramundi Poêlée à la crème de Topinambour, Endive et vinaigrette de truffe: fillet of barramundi with Jerusalem artichoke puree, endive and truffle vinaigrette served with Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris, Yarra Valley, 2010

Click here to read the full story

Entrance to the suite

Hi honey,

I’m in suite 28 at the Louise. I’m going out for dinner at 7:15pm but you can call me any time before that.

There is a television in the bathroom here Plus a rubber ducky

Love,

Me,

xxx

Rubber ducky!

Welcome fruit and cookies

In the pouring rain I make my way with John Baldwin, my tour guide to a suite at The Louise, one of the Small Luxury Hotels in South Australia. I had heard all about it and met the owner Jim Carreker at a Small Luxury Hotels lunch a while back. Having stayed at so many SLH establishments, I know that the SLH seal is one that I know that I will be well and truly indulged.

The bedroom

TV in bathroom

I am shown to my suite. It’s spacious and when I step in the fireplace is roaring and the tile  floors are heated which is huge welcome as the wild, whipping winds outside are battering the windows. I settle into my suite. The Louise is all suite hotel and legend, has it that there an outdoor shower in each suite. I peer around the corner and next to the indoor shower is indeed an outdoor shower! You can be naked, outdoors and private all at the same time!

The back verandah

The rooms are well appointed with complimentary house baked chocolate chip and macadamia nut cookies, port, espresso machine, organic teas, robes and slippers, a BOSE CD player as well as a selection of magazines and books. All lights have dimmer switches and the amenities provided are a mix of a brand called Vive and Molton Brown. And something rather thoughtful is when housekeeping noticed that I drank Earl Grey tea they stocked up the Earl Grey with a generous supply of it. These are the small thoughtful touches that I appreciate.

The outdoor shower

Breakfast is eaten in your room and you simply fill in the form and hand it in or phone it in by 6pm the evening before. Local produce features prominently on the menu and these items are marked by an asterisk. In some months (sadly not on while I am there), guests can have breakfast with the kangaroos at an additional $135 per person.

Breakfast room

Do you know when you go somewhere, there is always one place that everyone asks you if you’re going to visit? For South Australia, it’s the legendary Appellation restaurant located here at The Louise. Only earlier that day I had bumped into Appellation’s Mark McNamara at the Barossa farmer’s markets where he was buying provisions for tonight’s dinner. He is a lovely, approachable chef and a rarity in that he seems to enjoy engaging with his diners.

That evening at 7:30pm it is pitch black, pouring rain with the winds furiously pounding and even though I’ve packed three pairs of shoes for my trip, one pair is suede heels that just aren’t suited to an evening out in this pouring rain. I had left my umbrella outside the door and went to grab it. It’s not there.

The Appellation’s kitchen garden

I panic. Who has been into my courtyard area (accessible by key only) stealing my umbrella? It’s dark, and I start to worry and go back into the suite and look around for it. Nothing. I look outside again, suddenly the harmless looking plants look like they could be harbouring strange umbrella pinching creatures. I grab another umbrella and have it poised, ready to strike at any strangers and leave my suite. I apologise for being late and the maitre’d at The Appellation tells me not to worry, that it probably went skyward! So much for umbrella stealing plants…

The wine room where they cure smallgoods

Ruby from The Louise and I make our way to the table. The dining room seats just 48 people and there are two dining sessions: 6pm and 8:30pm. Guests of the Louise can book up to a year ahead to eat there whilst the general public can book up to 30 days in advance. We have a choice-the wine flight tasting menu or a la carte. I just have to try the wine flight tasting menu for $260 that takes about three hours-after all what better way to see the best of Mark’s kitchen. Also people can book the tasting menu ahead of time but on the night there are only sixteen of them set aside for those that haven’t prebooked it.

Click here to read the full story

I was taking a nap in the hotel room and I was moaning a bit. My flu had morphed into bronchitis while I was in Melbourne and I had only intended to lie down only to find myself minutes later dreaming. I awoke with a start. I was dreaming about food (as you do) and my internal clock reminded me that I had a meal waiting for me. “You were moaning a bit” Mr NQN told me as I roused from my two hour nap. I didn’t have the guts to tell him that I was moaning about dreamt food.

We go upstairs to the 28th floor of the Crown Metropol where there are complimentary drinks for guests between 5:30pm-7pm. I have a sparkling wine and Mr NQN has a red wine. There are also spirits and soft drinks available.

Soon after we arrive at Cutler & Co in Fitzroy where we meet Kirsten. With two hats in the 2010 Good Food Guide, recently voted as the restaurant of the year by Gourmet Traveller magazine and a Chef of the Year crown to its name, it’s packed on this cold Sunday evening. The space, particularly towards the back, reminds me of a cross between an art gallery, stables and a warehouse. All done up very nicely with lighting fixtures that remind me of stormy dark clouds and luxurious booths. Service is serious but pleasant.

Angassi Oysters $4 each

I recall hearing about the rare flat Angassi oyster at the Narooma Oyster festival where oyster grower David Maidment tells me that the Angassi is a close breed to the New Zealand Bluff oyster. They come out natural with lemon and I enjoy the enormously flat slightly smokey flavour of them.

Mandarin Duck $26

Click here to read the full story