
Albert Roux
“I’m French only in passport” Albert Roux says in his French accented English when someone asks him why he chooses to live and work in England. “It’s no secret I’m a royalist, not a republican” he tells a somewhat surprised crowd. Albert Roux, 75 years old leans on his cane and stands in the heart of the open kitchen at the Garden Court restaurant at the Sofitel Wentworth. He is cooking royalty himself (no wonder he is a royalist) and received England’s first Michelin star for his restaurant La Gavroche which he opened with his brother Michel Roux.

There are certain things that you assume would come from the mouth of a French born 3 star Michelin chef. And the talk of eschewing France for England is not one of them. Albert Roux, is refreshingly blunt. And when asked what he thinks of the culinary scene in Australia he gives a frank answer “There’s a bit of confusion” but tempers it with the reasoning that as a country we’re “a baby” and considers it full of promise.


Roux was originally supposed to come over last year but that pesky volcano trouble meant that the trip had to be postponed. He brings with him his own cuisine team and we watch as he holds up a finger and speaks intently to his chef partner Bruno Valette who nods and explains the instructions to others in order to fulfil the request.

Albert Roux and his chef partner Bruno Valette

I’m dining as a guest of Relais & Chateaux which is a hotel association with an emphasis on excellence much like the the Michelin guide is for food. Relais & Chateaux have a range of famous chefs as part of “Grand Chefs Relais” program including Heston Blumenthal, Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud and Australia’s Tetsuya Wakuda . And the night itself is full of surprises. The wines are not French, they’re all Australian wines from South Australia and Victoria. And the food? Many of us were expecting heavy French traditional food but it’s quite modern French indeed with some beautifully skilful sauces so glossy that they cast a reflection.

Oeuf Froid Carème: Artichoke hearts filled with smoked salmon and poached egg, sauce Marie Rose served with Knappstein Three, Clare Valley, 2009
The artichoke heart is a perfect disc of artichoke heart topped with slices of a heavily smoked salmon and a petal of it on top. On top of the salmon is a poached egg with a runny centre and the sauce Marie Rose on the side is a British sauce similar to a mayonnaise and tomato sauce. It’s a nice start, lovely and light with silky, creamy textures from the salmon, egg yolk and sauce Marie Rose.

Dos de Barramundi Poêlée à la crème de Topinambour, Endive et vinaigrette de truffe: fillet of barramundi with Jerusalem artichoke puree, endive and truffle vinaigrette served with Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris, Yarra Valley, 2010










































