Famous Hatted & Michelin star restaurants @ Not Quite Nigella

Category Archives: Hatted & Michelin restaurants

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, London

There’s nothing nicer than a lunch out during a sunny London summer’s day. Unfortunately, this day we had a miserable rainy summer’s day today in London. I can start to see why Londoners strip off when it’s warm and sit in the park, in a representation of a beachside break, when the sun comes out.

We’re headed to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon today for lunch, thankfully a place that does not rely on a sunny outlook. If you’ve never heard of Joël Robuchon, he is the man who has the most Michelin stars in the world, beating even the female foodie’s pin-up boy Gordon Ramsay. The restaurant is all lacquered blacks and reds, sleek and shiny with some whimsical touches and chili and fruit displays. Everything is all about sleek surfaces and strategically placed lighting.

We’re seated at the bar area along with most of the other guests. There are also other tables and a wall of foliage although the entire area is closed off and seemingly ensconced in the sleekness of the dark colours. It’s like a quiet nightclub or bar and as it’s Sunday afternoon there are a few families dining here as well (with well behaved kids).

We’re shown the menu and I choose to go with the 2 course lunch while Blythe opts for her favourite flavour: Foie Gras. Foie Gras in the Bouillon Poule (Foie Gras ravioli in broth) and the Foie Gras Le Burger, the items she swooned over in Tokyo’s Roppongi L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, the first branch opened in the world.

The Alessi bread basket is brought with some white sourdough rolls. Some are single, some are conjoined twins. Blythe notes that in Tokyo, the rolls were absolutely perfect in shape whereas here they are more haphazard. We ask for some butter and they oblige cutting off a slice from the roll and adding some fine salt on top. The bread and butter is sublime together, chewy and crispy spread thick with the gorgeous creamy butter.

Bouillon Poule £16

Blythe’s entree, the Bouillon Poule, Foie Gras Ravioli in warm chicken broth, zesty whipped cream, comes in a large square plate with a small cocoon bowl. The small ravioli, 5 in total are perfectly round and when you slip one into your mouth to taste it, the foie gras explodes in the mouth in a delicious warm gush.

Le Burger £15

Her burger arrives, a beef and foie gras burger with lightly caramelized bell peppers. They are two small round burgers with the JR flag raised atop along with upright crinkle cut chips and a drizzle of sauce. The foie gras burger is good although quite subtly foie gras flavoured with the julienned yellow capsicum’s flavour strongly present. Blythe admits that the Tokyo burger she had had a much stronger foie gras flavour and she prefers that.

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13 comments | September 16th, 2008 by Not Quite Nigella

Bentley Restaurant and Bar, Surry Hills

I was curious about Bentley Restaurant & Bar. It’s one of the latest restaurants with a bit of a buzz about it, and one of those places that only has two seatings, you can either dine at 6.30pm or 8.30pm. For me, when it used to be a bar it wasn’t anything to particularly write home about but when the restaurant came about in its current incarnation, suddenly people were.

It’s very darkly lit with a tree and foliage theme with leaves cut out of the red perspex partitions and a cut out “tree” on the side of the wall. We contemplate the menu, there’s a range of tapas as well as an a la carte entree and main section. I opt for two entrees while Gina opts for an entree to be made into a main size and Teena orders a main.

While we are waiting, the bread with olive oil, not something I usually partake of, is demolished by yours truly as it is absolutely scrumptious. And before you ask, as I would, if they gave us only two slices for the three of us, they did not, the two slices above were my share

Chickpea chips $8

We ordered the chickpea chips as we had no idea what to expect. Once we had done so, I had flashbacks to the awful polenta chips I had eaten at Icebergs but thankfully these aren’t anything like those. They’re hot and crunchy with a dried chickpea exterior resembling semolina or polenta. The Hummous is very creamy, much more creamy than Hummous usually is and they’re quite good and restorative in the chest in the way that hot chips are in the cold.

Basil Pudding with sweetcorn puree, zucchini flower and asparagus $18

My basil pudding (and the pork following) reminds me of the food that I had at Foliage in London (so resembled it that I had a look at the Bentley website to see where the chef had previously worked, not at Foliage it turns out). It’s all pretty little pieces artistically put together with a brush of sauce or a tangle of delicate leaves placed just so, where everything must be eaten together. The basil pudding cleverly resembles broccoli florets and it’s a melange of flavours where everything does mould together nicely and quite unusual at that. However I am a little disappointed that the zucchini flower, one of my favourite ingredients is simply two petals. Deep fried stuffed zucchini flowers are heaven on earth and I was looking forward to some.

Caramelised Pork Cheek with beetroot and smoked salmon ravioli $23

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17 comments | September 12th, 2008 by Not Quite Nigella

Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road restaurant, London

Gordon Ramsay once said that his Royal Hospital Road is his pride and joy, if all goes bottoms up then he always has that baby. Only open Monday to Friday it’s also the hardest place to get a table, and at up to £120 a meal for just lunch, the costliest of his restaurants. To secure a coveted table one needs to ring exactly one month in advance, and to secure the table give them your credit card details and should you not show, they can at their discretion, deduct £100 per person for the meal missed. It’s all phrased very courteously but you get the feeling that they wouldn’t hesitate in doing so.

Dear sister of NQN,
Firstly let me thank you for your interest in Restaurant Gordon Ramsay.
I am pleased to confirm your table reservation at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, located at 68 Royal Hospital Road, London, SW3 4HP as follows:
Where guests wish to make a reservation, it is the restaurant’s policy to secure the booking with their credit card details. In the event that the booking is cancelled in whole or in part by you with less than 24 hours notice or results in a no-show it will be at the discretion of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay to charge £100 per person to your credit card.
We are sorry that this has become a requirement but, regrettably, our experience dictates this precaution. We would be grateful if you could indicate your acceptance by completing and returning this form in order to confirm your booking by fax on 020 7592 1213
Email us at: royalhospitalroad@gordonramsay.com. Unfortunately, we will have to release the table if we have not received the completed form within 48 hours.As we will call you a day before to reconfirm, may I ask you for a contact number where we will be able to reach you on the working day prior to your reservation. Cancellations must be made in writing and sent by fax to 020 7592 1213 or by e-mail to royalhospitalroad@gordonramsay.com
Verbal cancellations cannot be accepted.
We very much look forward to welcoming you at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay.
On Behalf of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay

Picture in menu

The night before, we were left a rather firm sounding voicemail that we were expected at a certain time. The outside of the restaurant is understated elegance, with a simple plaque outside the door and a simple white building as befits the upmarket Chelsea area it resides in. Walking through the corridor there is a small area for guests to wait which also has many copies of his 3 Star chef book for those to read. There is no waiting though as service is brisk, they know who we are and lead us to our table. As it’s earlyish (12.30pm) the dining room room is about half full but within half an hour, all tables are full of diners.

The menu (excuse the fingerprints!)

The manager Jean-Claude Breton is a smoothie, reminiscent a little of Jerry Orbach. He asks us who is “hosting” the table to which we reply “Umm no-one”. Ahh ok not a problem, he smiles and hands us all menus. My sister and I don’t have prices on our menu but my husband has prices in his which is a first. It’s a nice touch if someone is hosting the table so that other guests feel more comfortable ordering without keeping watch of the price.

On the first pages are the a la carte menu featuring ravioli or lobster, langoustine and salmon poached in a light bisque with a lemongrass and chervil veloute as well as slow braised pied de cochon pressed then pan fried with ham knuckle, poached quail’s egg and hollandaise sauce as well as other fantastic sounding dishes. These can be had for £120. There is also following a menu Prestige or a tasting menu made up of 7 smaller dishes for £90. Then there is the Menu of the day, with 3 courses for £45.

Bread with salted and unsalted butter

We order a bit of everything from the Menu of the Day so that everyone can taste all of the dishes. Whilst we are waiting we receive salted and unsalted butter and are asked if we would like olive, white or brown sourdough bread. The olive is my husband’s favourite whilst the white sourdough thickly slathered with salted butter is my sister’s and mine. The service from the staff is wonderful, quiet and unobtrusive but anticipatory of your needs.

Amuse Bouche: vine riped tomato consomme

An amuse bouche arrives, a tomato consomme flavoured with coriander. It’s poured at the table and is intensively sweet with ripe tomatoes.

Quail and wild mushroom pithivier with confit leg and celeriac remoulade

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29 comments | September 8th, 2008 by Not Quite Nigella

Foliage at the Mandarin Oriental, London

Sometimes the only thing that will do when one is stressed is some coddling, charm and civility. So where does one turn but a 5 star hotel for lunch.The best part of dining in London is getting to try Michelin starred restaurants. Michelin doesn’t bother with Australia so whilst Tetsuya’s would be worthy of a Michelin star, he remains untouched with the fairy wand. So now is my chance to consume as many Michelin stars as possible. Housed in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel at Hyde Park London, never a shabby place to stay, Foliage has 1 Michelin star. This lunchtime Blythe and I are battling traffic congestion due to two tube lines being closed down and numerous roadworks near by. In fact we’re half an hour late for our booking and when we finally get there frantic and exhausted, we feel like we’ve really “earnt” our meal in effort.

We’re rewarded by broad smiles, soft welcomes and soothing tones. Foliage is a small room with enormous windows that offer a lovely view of Hyde Park, up close and personal. Guests are welcomed by not 3 but 4 courses. And for a price that’s an absolute steal in what can be a criminally expensive city £29. Yes you read right, £29 for lunch.

The menu has 4 choices which is generous and all of them call out in some way. We finally decide on some dishes after a little deliberation. We’re given bread, a choice of white, sourdough or walnut with salted and unsalted butter (walnut the clear winner, singing with walnut flavour through the copious amount of chunks).

Amuse Bouche: Chive Vichyssoise

We’re then bestowed with our Amuse Bouche, a Chive Vichyssoise. It’s creamy and smooth with a light mascarpone quenelle floating in the centre. A delicious start.

Starter: crab, mango, cucumber and coriander

Our starters then arrive, mine was the crab, mango, cucumber and coriander. The crab meat is delicate and sweet, the thing mango slices swirled on the plate with cucumber flavoured pasta and coriander sprigs. It all works beautifully together, never overwhelming the delicate crab. There are two delicious fried crab balls to give an alternate texture and taste.

Starter: Foie gras, beetroot, ginger bread and pecans

Blythe’s starter, a Foie gras, beetroot, ginger bread and pecans cleverly resembles rhubarb stalks. I do like Foie gras although sometimes I find it too strong. Not in this case, it’s beautifully balanced and beetroot goes wonderfully with the foie gras mousse. There is also a ball of foie gras rolled in pistachios which is also wonderful with the walnut bread which is thoughtfully topped up for us.

Intermediate: Scallops, squid ink, orzo, green almonds

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12 comments | August 25th, 2008 by Not Quite Nigella

Drouant restaurant, Paris

I don’t know how we’ve managed to do it but somehow we’ve brought the English rainy summer to Paris. Arriving this morning we’re tired, not exactly jetlagged but feeling similarly so due to the early rise to catch the Eurostar. We’re trying to find Drount, a Michelin starred restaurant and one of Paris’s chicest restaurants neat the Opéra but of course we can’t as the street that it sits on is not on any of our 4 maps. We finally find it, a light grey elegant building, with vivid blue Juliet balconies above.

Drouant is not just the centre for things culinary but also the centre for things related to Literature. Every year it hosts the Goncourt, Renaudot and Apollinaire awards (France’s most prestigious Literature awards) on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th floors of the building. The baby of Antoine Westerman it’s interior is given its zing by Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann. We’re greeted with broad smiles and deferential service. We have a few options for lunch, Drouant has a Plat du Jour for each day of the week-today it’s stuffed provencal vegetables for an absolute steal at €20. There is also a 3 course menu for €43 as well as an la carte selection.

A friendly fellow diner sitting next to us, the helpful Monsieur De Ville, sees our confusion and offers his suggestions. He has just had the €43 3 course meal and whilst it sounds great, I am still full from breakfast so we have to decline. Monsieur de Ville has tried so many items on their menu except for today’s Plat Du Jour and he explains that on Saturdays, there is an opportunity to meet some winemakers and enjoy a 3 course meal with 2 matching wines for €55.

Unusually, although we had read that Drouant does hors d’eovures sampler plates of 4 items, it appears that this is no longer the case. Monsieur de Ville, one of Drouant’s more regular customers confirms this with them and is surprised at this. My husband settles on the Plat du Jour and I choose the Duck Livers with peach, one of the “exceptional items of the season”.

Chateldon water €7

Apart from recommending us restaurants, he also suggests that they bring us the Chateldon water-the water that Louis XIV loved so much that he would order it be brought up to him at great trouble and is in such a limited production that it is only available at finer establishments like this. He flags down the manager who is bringing us regular sparkling to ask him to get us this one. It is actually markedly better which even my husband echoes (hopefully I haven’t created my own Louis XIV!).

Bread and butter

Stuffed provencal vegetables €20

Our meals arrive, the stuffed provencal vegetables look spectacular and fairly substantial. The eggplant, zucchini and capsicum are stuffed with a combination of pork and finely diced vegetables, in fact my mother makes something very similar at home, sauce and all!

Duck Liver with peaches €26
The duck liver with peaches are tender and lovely with a seared outer. I am ambivalent about strongly flavoured liver but this is so cleverly done as to reduce the strong liver taste. The peaches are a wonderful complement to it and are dressed with coriander. Even my husband, skittish with organs, is blissful eating this.

Petit fours

We’re too full for dessert, not used to eating this much for lunch although the desserts sound wonderful. We instead sip the Chateldon sparkling water, feeling just like Louis XIV and nibble on the delicious Petit Fours, sweet stewed candied orange slices and dark chocolate squares.

Napoleon’s Apartment, The Louvre

And speaking of over the top, I leave you with some photos of Napoleon’s apartment at the Louvre. A little over the top, but I’d say yes to that Dining Room any day!