
I know it seems like I completely let my New Zealand stories peter out completely but I do have one more to go. It’s my last story on this gorgeous country which we both adored so much.

Mapua is a small seaside town outside of Nelson in the South Island. Of course our reason for visiting Mapua is a culinary one – one that involves eating fish. Salt and Pepper Squid to be exact. Queen Viv has fond memories of the Salt and Pepper Squid at a place called the Smokehouse.

When we arrive we see that there are two Smokehouse establishments – a cafe and a takeaway. I take a look at the Smokehouse Cafe’s menu. There was no mention of the S&P squid so I take a look at the Smokehouse’s takeaway menu. This looks a bit more promising with two kinds of fish that are native to NZ, the Gurnard (a type of Perch) and the Tarahiki (that is also called the Jackass Morwong!). There isn’t any S&P squid although there are squid rings so we place an order for a scoop of chips, a piece of the Gurnard and a piece of the Tarahiki and half a dozen squid rings. We’re told it will be about 10 minutes by the friendly woman behind the counter and we go and browse some nearby shops before coming back.

The huge package as modelled by Mr NQN

Gurnard $4.50, Tarahiki $4.50, Scoop of chips $3.60, “squid” rings 90c each
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July 26, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

Welcome!

The view of Christchurch from the Crowne Plaza
Our trip to New Zealand was nearing its final stages. After driving through Hanmer Springs we arrived at Christchurch and checked into the Crowne Plaza Christchurch. We’re given a great room with a welcome plate of goodies including a macaron (how did they know?
) with the room situated on one of the top floors which means… yes access to the Club Lounge for pre dinner drinks and food and access to the internet. A very nice welcome indeed.


Denheath Custard Slice
I take a moment to scoff down an item that I searched all over the city for, a Denheath custard slice. The lovely Rosa from Cakes by Rosa had taken the time to write out a Christchurch foodie guide for me and she recommended that I try these legendary New Zealand custard slices. I take a bite into the square custard slices topped with sweet dessicated coconut. Wow. The custard is moussey and light but still firm and the whole thing is quickly and rapturously downed by me. And then regret as I know that this square of deliciousness is out of my reach when I get back to Sydney.

Club Lounge

Complimentary nibblies at the Club Lounge

Complimentary nibblies at the Club Lounge
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April 30, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

For our actual anniversary evening, Kay from A Culinary Experience, a fantastic Nelson B&B, booked us into Hopgoods which she said was the best place to eat in Nelson and if you can’t trust a foodie’s word, I don’t know who you would listen to. She and her husband Joe eat out regularly in order to keep on top of the food scene here. In Nelson, restaurants close down and change hands more often that you would think so eating out and sampling food is a necessary evil. OK I wouldn’t call eating out an evil at all, who am I kidding?
Kay had warned us that Nelson is a more casual sort of place. People don’t get really dressed up here and walking into Hopgoods, it’s unstuffy looking but still retains elements of fine dining with brown wooden chairs, white tablecloths and cute decorating touches. Kay warns us that the meals are a little on the small side here but since we’ve had some of the gorgeous Kikoranji blue cheese, apple and aged gouda back at the B&B, we’re not as hungry as might have been so we opt to share an entree and have a main each. The menu is not strong on native New Zealand food although there are a couple of NZ items.

Smoked Marlborough Salmon with Greek style salad, hot feta croutons and lemon infused olive oil $19.50NZD
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April 12, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

Queen Viv has had many careers in her lifetime. When she was younger, one of her part time jobs was fruit picker and I was fascinated listening to her stories having never done it before. And for those of you that haven’t picked fruit before, she gave us the low down on the best fruits to pick. Raspberries are the best as they don’t require any crouching or much bending and are light. Apples are ok but are heavy to carry. Fruit such as strawberries require a lot of bending over are the most difficult to do.


On our way back from Mapua to Nelson, my husband and I spotted a PYO (Pick Your Own) orchard. We didn’t realise this, just thinking it was an orchard selling fruit but when we drove up we saw a big sign that said “Pick Your Own Raspberries $4 kg”. I was shocked. Raspberries are $9 at my local fruit store for a 150g punnet so the chance to pick our own and pay only $4a kg was exciting. I wondered for a second if the sign meant that we would get $4 if we picked a kilo, in which case I would only have a fleeting interest in trying it just to see what picking fruit is like but my husband set me straight.

The woman behind the counter passes me a white tray and tells us directions to the raspberry picking area. We are to pick any raspberries from rows 1-6. And how do we tell which are ripe for the picking? “You’ll tell pretty quickly once you taste them” she answers. Music to my ears.

We get lost on the way of course, we turn left instead of right and I am horrified when I see the rows in which I have to pick from. The grass is quite high and although my husband reminds me that NZ has no poisonous snakes or spiders or creatures I refuse to go in. However once we realise that we are indeed in the wrong spot, and find the correct spot I’m relieved to see that it’s walkable having been trimmed.

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April 6, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella

One evening in Kaikoura we found ourselves hungry and desperately seeking seafood. There’s something about the sea air that does it to you. After realising that the iconic Nin’s Bin was closed, we were told that there was a little shack near the Kaikoura seal colony that sold all sorts of oceanic goodies including whitebait fritters so we hightail it down there.

At the little shack by the beach run by two friendly women, we’re shown the crayfish but as we’re hungry and cold we decide on something abit more warming so we opt for a couple of seafood chowders, a crayfish fritter, a whitebait fritter and some grilled scallops. Alla re served with rice and bread. Prices are very reasonable and we sit ourselves below an umbrella lined table in an effort to stave off the light drizzle.

Seafood Chowder $4NZD a cup
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April 4, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella