Category Archives: North Island

Desperately Seeking Hobbits: From Putaruru to Waitomo, New Zealand

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

My Dearest Darling readers, I know I have a tendency to go on a lot (imagine being one of my poor friends!). Today’s New Zealand post is a long-un so please settle in with a cup of tea and a biscuit :)

So where was I? I had just left Cambridge after having a great time pretending to be a princess. Ten minutes outside of Cambridge is the Monavale organic blueberry farm where a Dutch family produce 100 tonnes of organic blueberries a year both for both the local market and export market. “The reason why we do well is because we are known for our sweet blueberries” the direct and brusque owner Marcus says.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Originally the farm started with his parents who started farming organically in 1985 because they lived on the premises and didn’t want the chemicals near them. It was through a lot of trial and error and soil management that they have managed to achieve a sweet berry and 40% of their crop is exported, much to Australia marketed under the Irresistiblue label. However, since it is all fumigated upon entry into Australia, they can’t call it organic anymore.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

During the months of November to February people can Pick Your Own berries and after doing so can stop for a drink or something to eat in their cafe opened two years ago. Kath, Marcus’s wife tells us about the various blueberry products they have on offer from the jams, wines, sauce, ice cream, sorbet, liqueur as well as two types of juice including a pure blueberry juice which sells for $8 for 250mls and is said to have three punnets of blueberries in each bottle as well as the apple and blueberry juice which is $4.50 for 330mls.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Tasting plate $20

If you want to try some of the products there is a tasting plate for 1-2 people that gives you a small taste of the jam, chutney and spread along with toasted bread and a salad that you can dress with the blueberry dressing. There are also shot glass samples of the pure blueberry juice, apple and blueberry juice, ice cream and sorbet.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Blueberry pie $4.50

The pick of the cafe for the eat in food is the buttery blueberry pie with the crumble topping which is moreish and has a solid biscuitty pastry base, sweet blueberry filling and crumble topping.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

We take a little tour of the blueberry bushes – each bush has blueberries that ripen at different stages and they are picked when firm but dark blue. There are lots of blueberries per branch and Marcus tells us that when they have eight pickers picking in a row, they will not get the row finished in a day.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Viands Bakery

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

On the drive from Cambridge to Waitomo, should you wish to taste an award winning sweet pie you can stop in at Viands bakery, an unassuming bakery on Highway 23. Their pie won the award in this years Bakels pie competition for the sweet pie category. The idea originally came to them in a dream – it reminded the owner’s Shane’s wife of a port and plum chutney from her youth. She then made a port, plum and apple pie spiced richly with cinnamon, orange zest, vanilla paste and orange juice and created it for the competition where it won. For the weeks after the announcement they were selling 500 pies a day.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Port and plum pie $6

It’s a pretty pie with a flower motif on top. They make everything themselves including the pastry and there are two sweet pastries in this pie. The pastry is divine, so soft and buttery and the filing reminds me of Christmas mulled wines and has a the fruit is soft and filled with the aromatic scent of Christmas. And I’m so glad that we stopped!

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Waitomo General Store

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

I’m looking around for hobbits. I’m not mad (ok yes I am) but I’m not imagining things. After a drive, we have arrived in the town of Waitomo and they are in the midst of filming The Hobbit. We pull up to the Waitomo General Store that opened in January 2011 after being in a long period of disrepair. It was the original general store for the town and  has been taken over by English born couple Guy and Christobel Pilgrim who are cattle farmers. They wanted to open up a farm shop to sell their product which is what they tend to do in rural areas of England.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

The charmingly outfitted cafe has the shop to the left and an eating area to the right. Vintage mismatched furniture and quirky touches abound. The shop itself stocks all of the household basics for locals but they also do an excellent range of New Zealand boutique brands which are worth checking out. There is the Glasseye wild meat sauce, their own three week aged Angus beef at excellent prices, New Zealand soft drinks, smoothies, chips and goodies.

waitomo kamahi cottage new zealand

Te Anga Beef Burger $10

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Playing Princess in Cambridge and Hamilton, New Zealand

waikato food nz

waikato food nz

Two fat ducks waddle away slowly in the distance while fat droplets of rain fall. The seemingly never-ending green lawn goes for as long as the eye can see and the manicured trees and pink blossomed trees sway in the wind. Two stone lions sit guard outside the entrance to the lodge and look straight past me ignoring my rush inside.

waikato food nz

I rush up the soft blue carpeted stairs, hearing the ladies clinking glasses and china and I can imagine their hats bobbing in conversation. I open the double doors at room number one and enter the room and plop down on the king sized bed, limbs tired. I’m not in a fairytale, I’m at Sarnia Park, Cambridge in the Waikato region and I’ve just entered my room, the Kotuku Room, or the Bridal Suite.

waikato food nz

waikato food nz

The king bed is enormous, much like the room and on one side is a spacious balcony which looks out onto the freshly mowed lawns. On the adjoining side there is a long window seat with another spectacular view and large painting and bride worthy sized mirrors cover another wall.

waikato food nz

waikato food nz

The bathroom, about the size of some hotel rooms nowadays has a free standing claw foot bath with a handy rack in the centre, a bidet, two sinks and a separate shower as well as a large soft rug under my feet as well. And if I need to recline or find somewhere to towel off, there is also a chaise lounge in the bathroom. The amenities kit is deluxe and includes, shampoo, conditioner, moisturiser, make up remover towelettes, shower cap, shaving kit, swing kit and soap. And you can adjust the temperature of the hot water in the shower-or your butler can! ;)

waikato food nz

But please excuse me for a while, while I cut off a sliver of black truffle brie…

waikato food nz

Over the Moon Dairy

waikato food nz

Now where did I get that black truffle brie? A most wondrous gift it was from Over the Moon dairy which is based in Putaruru in the Waikato area of New Zealand which is known for its lush greenery and dairy industry. Here, owner Sue Arthur built up a multi award winning artisan cheese making business. She started it three and a half years ago built on the fact that she simply loved eating cheese.

waikato food nz

Sue Arthur from Over The Moon

Sue recruited the help from Australian cheese master Neil Willman who helped her set up the operation and develop recipes for the cheeses which are soon to become available in Australia. Neil later bought into the business and then became her live in partner (she tells us they’re both similarly obsessed with cheese!).

waikato food nz

Over the Moon dairy specialises in blends of cheeses and creating unusual cheese. Sue uses cow, goat, sheep and buffalo milk either by itself or in combination with others with one cheese, the Southern Cross as a combination of all four milks (and it is divine, with each milk coming to the fore at different stages on the tongue).

waikato food nz

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Relaxing In Roturua, New Zealand

rotorua food accommodation

rotorua food accommodation

I feel like Goldilocks. No, there aren’t three bears about to give me the fright of my  life but I am soaking in a mineral spa and then a few minutes later get up to try the jacuzzi. Finding the porridge -I mean the water too hot I get back in the mineral spa only to recline in a lounge by the pool feeling relaxed and prepped for my upcoming massage. Ahh this is juuust right. I am at Wai Ora spa whose latest awards including Best Luxury Spa Group and Best Luxury Mineral Springs Spa at the World Luxury Spa awards. They specialise in using geothermal mud from Hells Gate in Rotorua.

rotorua food accommodation

The 41°-43°C mineral spring bath that I have just hopped out of is filled with spring water mixed with a combination of minerals like sulfur taken from Hell’s Gate and the effect is said to be excellent for skin allergies much like the mud baths are but without using the mud. Every 10 minutes or so, Nui the spa manager checks on me to see how I’m doing and to offer me water. You see you can really only sit in the mineral spa for 20-30 minutes at a time(20 minutes for Hell’s Gate mud bath).

rotorua food accommodation

Prior to my treatment I have an infusion of Manuka tea leaves before my Miri-miri massage which is a massage done using traditional Maori techniques.  It’s a relaxation massage that focuses on light massage on the upper tissue layers and focuses on muscle healing in a gentle way and is ideal for pregnant women and they can have this massage until 7-8 months pregnant.

rotorua food accommodation

My therapist Richelle uses their house brand Alite on me and it is a range that is not perfumed and without flower essences as they found that many people are allergic to fragrances (me included). For the hour long massage she does extensive work on my upper back which is knotted from travel and also includes a facial and head massage in the process.

rotorua food accommodation

Before I know it, my massage is over and I sit up and the tension and knots have faded away to nothing. I get up and float down the hall and get changed. Outside waiting for me is a platter of bread, crackers, cheeses, ham, turkey and divine salmon as well as fruit, caramelised onion jam, pickle salad, green salad as well as dukkah and two flavoured oils. The salmon is my favourite and I enjoy this along with the aged cheddar, crackers and salad.

rotorua food accommodation

I promptly book an express pedicure-the spa is open late and there are several therapists and nine therapy rooms and with just 30 suites at the hotel there is a high ratio of spa treatment rooms per guest. This was done deliberately by owner Bryan Hughes because he has travelled the world and realised that many resort or hotel spas are small and only have one or two therapists and as a result are hard to get into (very true). And after I get changed I’m off to dinner at the multi award wining Mokoia restaurant downstairs with him tonight.

rotorua food accommodation

The restaurant is named after Mokoia Island which is a wildlife sanctuary that dates back to 1350AD. Bryan’s ancestry is half Maori and half Welsh and his tribe owns one quarter of this island as well as outright owning Hell’s Gate or Tikitere which is a geothermal park and mud spa. It was so named by George Bernard Shaw who saw the steam rising and thought that it was the gateway to hell! With ownership also comes “guardianship” which means looking after the land.

The menu here at Mokoia restaurant is fine dining and on every table is a sign about how they are part of a Silver Fern farms initiative and they are the exclusive restaurant for local venison, beef and lamb.  There are Maori ingredients like kawakwawa (a native peppermint), horopito pepper and New Zealand piripiri (not South African) in the dukkah. The table wine is by Tohu wine which means “The Mark” in Maori and every year they make one to honour a chief from their rich history and make a wine based on the chief’s characteristics and personality.

rotorua food accommodation

Open for three years now, Bryan strives to define Maori hospitality or true hosting. As Wai Ora is out of town, any guests are dropped in to and picked up from town as part of the service and if they want breakfast at 10pm they can have it then.  But back to the dinner! You can eat a la carte or they have introduced a tasting style way of eating where you can choose three of the entrees or mains and you get a sharing plate with two smaller portions of each of the dishes allowing you to try more. There is also a full vegetarian vegan menu available.

rotorua food accommodation

Mini loaf of gourmet rewana with whipped garlic butter $9.50

We start with breads, all baked on the premises. The rewana bread is a potato bread which I recall liking immensely the last time I had it. It comes as a mini loaf with whipped garlic butter, a home made mango and a kawa kawa melon relish. The loaf is warm and buttery and on top is a deep fried kawa kawa leaf. It’s hard to say no to a second piece.

rotorua food accommodation

Toasted foccacia with puri piri dukkah, pikipiko pesto and tomato oil $9.50

The focaccia is coated in herbs and comes with a piri piri dukkah as well as two oils: a tomato oil and a piko piko (edible curled fern) pesto oil  which has a flavour like a basil pesto. They get all of their native ingredients from Mokoia island which spans 760 acres. There they track nine kiwi birds-and did you know that it is the male kiwi birds that sit on the eggs for sometimes up to 100  days? Random interesting fact!

rotorua food accommodation

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Rotorua, New Zealand

I’m gutted. Truly, madly, deeply. If I could wish anything it could be to wish Mr NQN by my side because I’ve finally found a win win place for both f us to visit and that is Rotorua in New Zealand. I’m all about spa and he is all about adventure and quite honestly we end up doing my sort of holiday because I am small, opinionated and bossy and the planner he is easy going and doesn’t plan anything. See what a good match we make Dear Reader? ;)

The Regent

rotorua food accommodation

Rotorua is a town of 70,000 residents but their top industry is tourism so there are plenty of places to eat out. And one of these places is The Regent. When we designed our apartment I was so smitten by the black and white rooms that I had seen on various design blogs that I decided that we would decorate our bedroom in the black and white colour scheme as I love its classic elegance. And when I step into The Regent the room is decorated in this chic combination of colours. Owned by the same owners of the new Black Swan Hotel their aim was to make it a hotel that they wanted to stay in. There is an outdoor area with a pool and even though it isn’t chilly we take a seat indoors.

rotorua food accommodation

The Regent Room houses the restaurant and cocktail bar and there are bone china fixtures on the walls,  French style sofas and an indoor/outdoor fireplace. The hotel adjoins it and it is made up of a renovated area and a newer area.

rotorua food accommodation

We’re having problems deciding what to eat. I want to try anything local so after a while Kathy and I choose a few things keeping an eye out for the rocky road pavlova on the dessert menu. I know that servings in New Zealand tend to be on the generous side but you can’t help but taste a few things can you dahlinks?

rotorua food accommodation

Crispy fried squid, coriander, mint with palm sugar dressing $15

The crispy fried squid is very lightly coated and deep fried and is tender and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. The salad that it is sitting on is made up up coriander, mint and salad leaves with a chilli and palm sugar dressing that is a little too much on the sweet side for me although I’m really liking the fact that there is a good punch of spicy chilli there.

rotorua food accommodation

New Zealand mussels with coriander and spiced coconut broth $16.50

The mussels are plentiful, not too chewy and come with a creamy, rich and well spiced coconut broth that is mild on the heat.

rotorua food accommodation

Mushroom and potato croquettes with aioli $9

The croquettes are very soft and barely survive the transport from serving plate to share plate. They are part of the tapas menu which ranges from edamame beans, garlic prawns, braised chickpeas with chorizo and stuffed mussels. The croquettes are quite different to the tapas ones you find in Sydney with the fine breadcrumbs and tightly packed filling. The outside is made up of very crispy panko breadcrumbs and the filling reminds me of mushroom soup with pieces of mushroom and a thick mushroom sauce.

rotorua food accommodation

Regent antipasto platter for 2 people $29

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Mollies, Auckland, New Zealand

qantas first class

Hello Readers! I’m off to visit another country today and of course the first step to a visit is to get on a plane. Speaking of, have you ever wondered what a First Class airline lounge looks like? I have always wanted to know what a $20,000 airline ticket buys you access to. So when we were travelling to New Zealand with Relais & Chateaux to visit some of their best lodges the country had to offer and we learned that we were flying Qantas Business Class and were offered a chance to check out the First Class lounge we jumped at it.

qantas first class

Designed by Marc Newson it is nothing like I what I expected. I had expected something along the lines of Donald Trump’s Trump Tower (without the crazy man with the birth certificate issues). All gold and I think an episode of The Simpsons imprinted a fountain and a swan in my mind somewhere. The Newson designed lounge is all sleek lines in pattern reflecting the airline wings. There are luxurious touches though and they come via little surprises such as the leather tiles in the library which are said to wear our so easily that they need to be replaced every three years.

qantas first class

The spa treatment area is a first class lounge only perk and passengers get a one hour treatment per person from the menu. They are contacted the day before they fly to be offered this and the spa is so busy that passengers can’t walk in for a treatment. Although for $20,000 a ticket, I would want more than an hour’s treatment! They couldn’t pry me out to there… ;)

qantas first class

We sit down for breakfast and try the food on offer. Designed by Neil Perry there is a buffet of items to choose from but breakfast is table service. There are four very good champagnes on offer which we start with as well as a freshly squeezed orange juice. The breakfast offerings are similar to what you might find at a cafe and all eggs are organic there are items such as egg white omelettes as well as eggs benedict, porridge etc.

qantas first class

Organic oat porridge with banana, seeds, nuts and white clover honey

Although I usually go for eggs for breakfast and have to be in the mood to have porridge (Winter usually does the trick) this porridge is definitely one of the picks for breakfast. Nubbly with seeds and nuts the porridge is as Goldilocks would say “juuust right” in terms of sweetness.

qantas first class

Egg white omelette with vine ripened tomato, ricotta and chives

The egg white omelette ordered out of curiosity and to save some calories is excellent with the right amount of flavour and seasoning. I sometimes find egg white omelettes can be bland but this has plenty of flavour from the tomato, ricotta and chives.

qantas first class

A side plate of smoked salmon and Schulz’s bacon is ordered to go with the egg white omelette (low carb eating and all!) and the smoked salmon is particularly good. Note no brown bits on the salmon so it is premium quality.

qantas first class

Scrambled organic eggs with field mushrooms and Schulz’s bacon

qantas first class

We watch the view of the aircraft that we are to take and we test out their first class service. When you check into the lounge they take your boarding pass and they are supposed to alert you when your flight is ready to board you. We sit there waiting nervously seeing the time tick by wondering if they will let us know. It gets frighteningly close to take off time so we move ourselves just as they approach us and make a bit of a mad dash to the gate which is frustratingly close by but we have to walk down quite a few gates to get there from the lounge. Those in our group flying business class aren’t getting paged but the economy passengers are which is interesting! I guess you fly business not to be bothered! :)

qantas first class

For the short flight to New Zealand, there is no first class service and business is the highest grade available. I get a seat in the first row and when they close the curtain I am reminded of the Seinfeld episode where Jerry flies in First class and Elaine in Economy.

We’re offered champagne or juice while we settle in for take off and I opt for something soft (I know, shame on me!). The entertainment kicks in and I pop on my noise cancelling headphones and drift off calmly. The thing about business class is that they leave you alone. I find that with economy you get bothered by all sorts of things, people getting in and out and just other things but here they leave you alone. I suppose they think that you might be a busy business traveller who needs to think of important businessey things like global takeovers etc.

qantas first class

Smoked ocean trout with herbed orzo salad and caper dressing

This was my sort of entree. I do think that for business and first class they need to make the meals distinct and serving them on proper plates instead of the rectangular trays is one good way and the little tablecloth is another (although putting a tray on top of the tablecloth doesn’t seem necessary. The very generous portion of smoked salmon is excellent quality and the herby orzo salad has a lovely crunch in it from the lightly blanched vegetables. Oh and before I forget, the cutlery and cups are designed by Marc Newson too and the cutlery is made by Alessi.

qantas first class

Beef fillet with mushroom sauce, rosemary and thyme butter, potato puree and broccolini

I know I shouldn’t have ordered the steak as that is often the hardest thing for an airline to do but I was hoping that they would rise to the occasion. Presentation wise this would have been nicer on a proper plate and not a rectangular tray. My high from the entree is deflated as I cut through the steak to find it totally cooked through and quite difficult to cut and the mushroom sauce gives it an unappetising grey shade. And although I love butter there is just too much of it on the broccolini-you can probably see it on the left hand side. I should have gone with the non steak option but you know me, I live in hope! I should note that my travelling companions in economy were quite happy with their food although I didn’t further the Jerry Elaine Seinfeld experience by going back there and seeing what it was like.

qantas first class

Maggie Beer ice cream and almond bread

I do love this trend that airlines have for giving ice cream for dessert instead of the mystery panna cotta/bavarois/cake square that they usually serve. We were served the famous and divine Maggie Beer burnt fig, honeycomb and caramel ice cream along with an almond biscotti.

I amuse myself with the entertainment system and my iPad and before we know it, we’ve touched down in Auckland and on the way lost a couple of hours so it’s late in the afternoon. Our driver collects us from the airport and we take the drive to our accommodation.

mollies auckland

I’m feeling dramatic. Allow me to explain why and why my feeling dramatic is more likely to take the form of accidentally flinging food (see prawn cutlet incident) than breaking out in song. We’ve checked in to Mollies, a luxurious hotel in Auckland and there’s an opera singer singing his talented heart out in front of me in what they call musical h’ors deauvres. There are some 250 candles lit, flame swaying and glowing and around us surround thick curtains, enormous vases, long, slender art deco champagne glasses and sweeping flower arrangements that I would swear would rival Elton John’s florist’s bill. I expect a diva to join bass baritone Moses Mackay any minute now.

mollies auckland

I’m touring around New Zealand’s top properties as a guest of Relais & Chateaux which is an association of hoteliers much like the Michelin guide is to food, Relais & Chateaux is to hotels. They’re not that widely known in Australia yet and a part of that is because there are only very few properties that are part of the Relais & Chateaux group. The standards are strict and the membership terms include details such as room size, ideal temperature for the room between 19-24C, a turndown service, being offered refreshment upon arrival, down to minor details such as “Elegant toothbrush glasses (if possible made of glass)” and placement of power sockets!

In fact Beyonce and Jay Z recently booked out the entire of Mollies and stayed in the room next to mine. Each of the 13 suites at Mollies is decorated differently. And I know, that raises some concerns with me as sometimes some rooms don’t get as nice a treatment as others but when we’re shown room after room any concerns about drawing the short straw are rendered invalid.

mollies auckland

mollies auckland

It’s all the doing of one of Mollie’s owners Frances, daughter of the original owner Mollie who back then called this the Harbour Bridge Guest House and formerly the residence of Auckland’s first mayor. She’s the musical link and provider of drama via deft decoration and we go from room to room carressing surfaces and oohing and aahing over details.

mollies auckland

It is all decorated by Frances – half using existing items and half using things that she liked to collect over the years from when she was a teenager living in London to later in Europe and New York. Plus there is that stunning view of Auckland Harbour which is not too shabby at all.

mollies auckland

mollies auckland

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