We’d risen early this particular morning in New Zealand, 6.15am to be exact in order to make a whale watching expedition in Kaikoura. It turns out we were extremely lucky. After downing an anti sea sickness tablet we set off and saw 3 Sperm whales and a large group of 500 dolphins. All very exciting but you know what I was thinking about right? Yes that’s right, lunch. Well, you know me right?
Once I was back on land I felt better and my appetite returned (I never lose my appetite for long). Kaikoura is literally the Maori words for Eat Crayfish or Lobster. Specifically Kai=Eat, Koura=Crayfish. So it’s no surprise that crayfish is offered everywhere. Nin’s Bin however holds a special place in the heart for many. Set 20 minutes North of Kaikoura on the most breathtaking drive you’ll ever make with calender picture after calender picture of stunning ocean vista, you round the corner and see the signs for Nin’s Bin.
Since the mid 1970’s Nin’s Bin has sat there, in front of the amazingly gorgeous teal green ocean. Iconic doesn’t even begin to describe it and interesting there are only 2 things on the menu. Crayfish and mussels. Nothing else and little more aside from sauces to accompany these. And it is possibly the best place to eat in the area due to the freshness of the cryafish, surprisingly reasonable price and the view. Oh yes the view.
Not a painting on the wall, but a window showcasing the view
The crayfish with prices on tails
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March 31, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella
Bluff Oysters are famous. Famous enough for me to do my own version of hunting for them. Larger than regular oysters and creamy beyond creamy, only in season from March to August each year, they’re said to be the world’s best oysters and New Zealand’s South Island’s most famous delicacy. They’re expensive too, expect to pay upwards of $30 for 6 of them and the arrival of these oysters are front page news. As witnessed on the front of our newspaper yesterday morning signifying that a flotilla of boats headed out at dawn to bring back the season’s first catch.
For the past 5 years there was a voluntary restriction in order to preserve the catch but the results of a National Institute of water and Atmospheric research allowed fishermen to catch more. They take this stuff seriously, and hauls of between 11 to 21 sacks a day yield 880kgs of the little pearl catchers.
Yes it seemed like we were just in time for the arrival of the Bluff Oysters, fortuitously so, because tomorrow we leave for Kaikoura which is more North. I ask the Crowne’s Concierge, the ever helpful Nathan about the Bluff Oysters and he tells me that Wai waterfront is one place that is likely to have them and another place Fishbone is a bit more casual but they always seem to have the freshest fish around.
It seems we are out of luck. We enquire at Wai and they tell us that it will be at least a week until they receive their Bluff Oysters. He tells me that the first batch makes it way up to the North Island where they are more willing to pay the big prices in the bigger cities like Auckland. I leave dejected and hoping that I’ll find some at Christchurch and he tells me that even if I find them there they’ll be very expensive. Hmm thanks!
We walk around and past the Fishbone grill and take a peek at their menu and I think my eyes are playing tricks on me but I see Bluff Oysters on the menu! And at $24 for a half dozen at a reasonable price too. I excitedly ask whether they do indeed have Bluff Oysters and they confirm this and they say that they only arrived at 4pm that very afternoon. We’re chuffed and take a seat to slide a half dozen down our throats.
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March 29, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella
“A what?” my husband asks. “A Bed Bar,” I answer, as if it were commonplace. One of the more delightful aspects to the Crowne Plaza Queenstown was this little touch of comfort, where it is perfectly acceptable to curl up on a couch and nurse a drink before supping.
The Bed Bar
Dining at threesixty degrees comes at the end of a very long sightseeing day. We’re happy to collapse in a chair, in the chic restaurant of our hotel and relax with some delicious New Zealand produce The view ahead of us is a 180degree view of Lake Wakatipu much to our delight. Service is friendly and polite and we explain that we would like one 5 course degustation $95(NZD)and one a la carte meal with as much NZ produce as possible and this is smoothly handled. Ah this is why we heart good hotels.
Group table
Olssens 2007 Reisling from Central Otago
We start with a bottle of Otago wine, the Olssens reisling. Otago is known for it’s Pinot Noir’s, especially given the climate but as we don’t favour reds we go for the reisling which the waiter says is the next big wine to come out of the area as they’re having spectacular successes with the vintages for these. It’s crisp and ever so slightly sweet.
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March 25, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella
I first heard of Aggy’s Fish and chips shack right on the esplanade of Queenstown beach from a fellow tourist who asks Nathan the ever helpful Crowne Plaza Queenstown Concierge whether it’s safe to eat there. He nods says that it indeed safe to eat there and the tourist breathes a sigh of relief as he’s eager to have some freshly cooked New Zealand green lipped mussels. We walk past the little black painted shack and see the queues outside. Aggy the cook is inside busily taking orders and cooking them to order all within the confines of his tiny shack. We make a mental note to come back when we have a quick look a the menu. Not only is there fish and chips but there is also a Wild NZ menu full of unusual items, the most interesting being the muttonbird meal (or Titti bird as it’s also known here or sooty Shearwater). Aggy has been here for 3 years and before that he had a stand in Wanaka and one in Cromwell but when he gets tired of his surroundings he moves. Aggy’s son also works there. I later ask Nathan about this shack and he tells me that it had previously been an ice cream shop, and a sushi shop.
We come back one lunchtime. Aggy is friendly, one of those characters that you feel instantly resembles a Popeye cartoon character. I order a mutton bird meal $20NZD and the Green Lipped mussels $10NZD and a Sea Scallop fritter $2NZD (yes, $2!). I watch him make the orders, he’s organised, well you have to be to make food in such a small surroundings, and I watch him steam the mussels by putting them in a metal mixing bowl and flipping it upside down onto the hot plate leaving the bowl on top to steam them in their juices.
Mutton Bird Meal $20NZD
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March 21, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella
The front door handle
When I visited Bali several years ago, every Balinese person asked me if i had been to Ubud. This time visiting Queenstown, New Zealand, the question I was asked by everyone was “Have you been to the Botswana Butchery?” Thankfully we had a booking, and it was lucky we did as it was booked the 2 nights before, despite being able to seat up to 200 people. Executive Chef and Owner Leungo Lippe (pronounced Luno Lippy) is from Botswana and being a Butchery, well I don’t need to tell you what their speciality is. It’s meat, meat and more meat. If you were under any misunderstanding the numerous cleavers that dot the place starting with the logo to the front door handle stress the point.
It’s a stunning looking restaurant rich in black and whites. Our Canadian born waiter is seamless and friendly and he is happy to give us recommendations. We know we want the 450g Prime Whole Rib which at $36NZD is the most expensive item on the menu aside from the lobster claws. The prices are surprisingly reasonable with most mains under $30NZD. The Fine cuts, i.e. the meat are slightly more. You can choose a sauce to go with your meat and sides which range from $5NZD to $9NZD. Our waiter asks whether we’d like it cooked pan fried or wood fired and we take the chef’s preference of wood firing.
Private Room
Private room
Bar area
After taking our order the waiter invites us to browse it upstairs where there are private dining rooms, the wine cellar and the bar area. I go upstairs and am surprised to find 2 private dining rooms for 2 (which I recommend booking, more reasons for wanting to book that later) and a room for 4 and a large room for 20. All can be booked at no extra charge and some have fireplaces.
Wine room
450g Prime Whole Rib $36NZD
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March 19, 2009
by Not Quite Nigella
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