Category Archives: New Zealand Eating & Travel

Eating and Travelling in New Zealand

Whare Kea Lodge, Wanaka, New Zealand

whare kea lodge

One of my long held fantasies is to stay overnight in a department store with friends. We would raid the food and chocolate counters, try on makeup without getting pressure sold and try on dresses and shoes all night. I’ve held this fantasy since childhood. But what about a little twist? Instead of staying in a department store, how about staying in the house of a department store owner?

whare kea lodge

whare kea lodge

Whare Kea (pronounced far-eh-kee-ah) Lodge is named after the world’s only alpine parrot, the cheeky Kea and is owned by the Myer family (of the Australian Department store). Whare Kea was originally built as their holiday home as the Myers are keen heli skiers and they would bring friends along to stay who in turn encouraged them to open their doors to the public. The 70 acre location couldn’t be more spectacular. On the edge of Lake Wanaka near a glacier there’s nothing between your balcony door and the grass which leads to the lake edge.

whare kea lodge

whare kea lodge

The main lobby resembles someone’s living room-well if that someone was a department store mogul (it certainly doesn’t look like my living room!). It’s the corner of the lodge facing the lake and there are floor to ceiling windows and very high ceilings. After our trip travelling from Mollies in Auckland we are offered refreshments of tea and coffee and a cheese platter and something a bit more substantial as we’ve missed lunch. They bring us a cheese platter with a Talbot Forest Vintage Cheddar and brie from Geraldine, and a Fiddler’s Hill Goat’s cheese from Puhoi Valley. Splendid!

whare kea lodge

As we’re still a bit peckish we get another plate this time with gorgeous quartered fresh figs which are lusciously good, serrano jam, Clevedon Buffalo ricotta with manuka honey drizzled on top.

whare kea lodge

Come along with me and see what a department store mogul’s bedroom looks like!

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Mollies, Auckland, New Zealand

qantas first class

Hello Readers! I’m off to visit another country today and of course the first step to a visit is to get on a plane. Speaking of, have you ever wondered what a First Class airline lounge looks like? I have always wanted to know what a $20,000 airline ticket buys you access to. So when we were travelling to New Zealand with Relais & Chateaux to visit some of their best lodges the country had to offer and we learned that we were flying Qantas Business Class and were offered a chance to check out the First Class lounge we jumped at it.

qantas first class

Designed by Marc Newson it is nothing like I what I expected. I had expected something along the lines of Donald Trump’s Trump Tower (without the crazy man with the birth certificate issues). All gold and I think an episode of The Simpsons imprinted a fountain and a swan in my mind somewhere. The Newson designed lounge is all sleek lines in pattern reflecting the airline wings. There are luxurious touches though and they come via little surprises such as the leather tiles in the library which are said to wear our so easily that they need to be replaced every three years.

qantas first class

The spa treatment area is a first class lounge only perk and passengers get a one hour treatment per person from the menu. They are contacted the day before they fly to be offered this and the spa is so busy that passengers can’t walk in for a treatment. Although for $20,000 a ticket, I would want more than an hour’s treatment! They couldn’t pry me out to there… ;)

qantas first class

We sit down for breakfast and try the food on offer. Designed by Neil Perry there is a buffet of items to choose from but breakfast is table service. There are four very good champagnes on offer which we start with as well as a freshly squeezed orange juice. The breakfast offerings are similar to what you might find at a cafe and all eggs are organic there are items such as egg white omelettes as well as eggs benedict, porridge etc.

qantas first class

Organic oat porridge with banana, seeds, nuts and white clover honey

Although I usually go for eggs for breakfast and have to be in the mood to have porridge (Winter usually does the trick) this porridge is definitely one of the picks for breakfast. Nubbly with seeds and nuts the porridge is as Goldilocks would say “juuust right” in terms of sweetness.

qantas first class

Egg white omelette with vine ripened tomato, ricotta and chives

The egg white omelette ordered out of curiosity and to save some calories is excellent with the right amount of flavour and seasoning. I sometimes find egg white omelettes can be bland but this has plenty of flavour from the tomato, ricotta and chives.

qantas first class

A side plate of smoked salmon and Schulz’s bacon is ordered to go with the egg white omelette (low carb eating and all!) and the smoked salmon is particularly good. Note no brown bits on the salmon so it is premium quality.

qantas first class

Scrambled organic eggs with field mushrooms and Schulz’s bacon

qantas first class

We watch the view of the aircraft that we are to take and we test out their first class service. When you check into the lounge they take your boarding pass and they are supposed to alert you when your flight is ready to board you. We sit there waiting nervously seeing the time tick by wondering if they will let us know. It gets frighteningly close to take off time so we move ourselves just as they approach us and make a bit of a mad dash to the gate which is frustratingly close by but we have to walk down quite a few gates to get there from the lounge. Those in our group flying business class aren’t getting paged but the economy passengers are which is interesting! I guess you fly business not to be bothered! :)

qantas first class

For the short flight to New Zealand, there is no first class service and business is the highest grade available. I get a seat in the first row and when they close the curtain I am reminded of the Seinfeld episode where Jerry flies in First class and Elaine in Economy.

We’re offered champagne or juice while we settle in for take off and I opt for something soft (I know, shame on me!). The entertainment kicks in and I pop on my noise cancelling headphones and drift off calmly. The thing about business class is that they leave you alone. I find that with economy you get bothered by all sorts of things, people getting in and out and just other things but here they leave you alone. I suppose they think that you might be a busy business traveller who needs to think of important businessey things like global takeovers etc.

qantas first class

Smoked ocean trout with herbed orzo salad and caper dressing

This was my sort of entree. I do think that for business and first class they need to make the meals distinct and serving them on proper plates instead of the rectangular trays is one good way and the little tablecloth is another (although putting a tray on top of the tablecloth doesn’t seem necessary. The very generous portion of smoked salmon is excellent quality and the herby orzo salad has a lovely crunch in it from the lightly blanched vegetables. Oh and before I forget, the cutlery and cups are designed by Marc Newson too and the cutlery is made by Alessi.

qantas first class

Beef fillet with mushroom sauce, rosemary and thyme butter, potato puree and broccolini

I know I shouldn’t have ordered the steak as that is often the hardest thing for an airline to do but I was hoping that they would rise to the occasion. Presentation wise this would have been nicer on a proper plate and not a rectangular tray. My high from the entree is deflated as I cut through the steak to find it totally cooked through and quite difficult to cut and the mushroom sauce gives it an unappetising grey shade. And although I love butter there is just too much of it on the broccolini-you can probably see it on the left hand side. I should have gone with the non steak option but you know me, I live in hope! I should note that my travelling companions in economy were quite happy with their food although I didn’t further the Jerry Elaine Seinfeld experience by going back there and seeing what it was like.

qantas first class

Maggie Beer ice cream and almond bread

I do love this trend that airlines have for giving ice cream for dessert instead of the mystery panna cotta/bavarois/cake square that they usually serve. We were served the famous and divine Maggie Beer burnt fig, honeycomb and caramel ice cream along with an almond biscotti.

I amuse myself with the entertainment system and my iPad and before we know it, we’ve touched down in Auckland and on the way lost a couple of hours so it’s late in the afternoon. Our driver collects us from the airport and we take the drive to our accommodation.

mollies auckland

I’m feeling dramatic. Allow me to explain why and why my feeling dramatic is more likely to take the form of accidentally flinging food (see prawn cutlet incident) than breaking out in song. We’ve checked in to Mollies, a luxurious hotel in Auckland and there’s an opera singer singing his talented heart out in front of me in what they call musical h’ors deauvres. There are some 250 candles lit, flame swaying and glowing and around us surround thick curtains, enormous vases, long, slender art deco champagne glasses and sweeping flower arrangements that I would swear would rival Elton John’s florist’s bill. I expect a diva to join bass baritone Moses Mackay any minute now.

mollies auckland

I’m touring around New Zealand’s top properties as a guest of Relais & Chateaux which is an association of hoteliers much like the Michelin guide is to food, Relais & Chateaux is to hotels. They’re not that widely known in Australia yet and a part of that is because there are only very few properties that are part of the Relais & Chateaux group. The standards are strict and the membership terms include details such as room size, ideal temperature for the room between 19-24C, a turndown service, being offered refreshment upon arrival, down to minor details such as “Elegant toothbrush glasses (if possible made of glass)” and placement of power sockets!

In fact Beyonce and Jay Z recently booked out the entire of Mollies and stayed in the room next to mine. Each of the 13 suites at Mollies is decorated differently. And I know, that raises some concerns with me as sometimes some rooms don’t get as nice a treatment as others but when we’re shown room after room any concerns about drawing the short straw are rendered invalid.

mollies auckland

mollies auckland

It’s all the doing of one of Mollie’s owners Frances, daughter of the original owner Mollie who back then called this the Harbour Bridge Guest House and formerly the residence of Auckland’s first mayor. She’s the musical link and provider of drama via deft decoration and we go from room to room carressing surfaces and oohing and aahing over details.

mollies auckland

It is all decorated by Frances – half using existing items and half using things that she liked to collect over the years from when she was a teenager living in London to later in Europe and New York. Plus there is that stunning view of Auckland Harbour which is not too shabby at all.

mollies auckland

mollies auckland

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A Spa & Afternoon Tea Day at The Langham, Auckland, New Zealand

the langham, auckland, chuan spa

I am what people would call a girly girl. Sure I went through a tomboy phase when I was around 8 years old but for the most part I wanted all things pink and pretty. So when I learnt that my last day in New Zealand would involve two of my favourite girly experiences: a spa visit and afternoon tea-and not any afternoon tea, the Wonderland afternoon tea-I squeal. I do love Alice in Wonderland!

the langham, auckland, chuan spa

I step into the lush interior of the Langham Hotel. Like Alice I follow the signs down a rabbit hole ahem… corridor and face the sliding doors of the Chuan Spa. Everything is covetable from the furniture to the carpet (can you tell we’ve been redecorating?) and I’m led to sit down in the Contemplation Corner. “Pardon?” I ask and the attendant smiles and motions me to the Contemplation Corner aka the waiting room. There I’m asked to fill in a questionnaire about allergies and any conditions I may have and I can choose the music that I want to listen to. I’m also given a folded card where I indicate my current state of mind reflected in season or feelings.

the langham, auckland, afternoon tea

They set down a lovely Ginseng and Oolong tea which I sip until they take me into the changing area. I’m shown to my locker which has a soft robe, slippers and a towel and they offer me the use of the steamroom, sauna or the ice before my treatment. The ice? Apparently when Finns (who invented the sauna) use a sauna in Winter, they like to pat snow on themselves afterwards so there is an ice machine that dispenses ice. I walk through the door and my therapist guides me to my room and explains the treatment to me. I am getting a full body massage and a Thalgo bliss facial. Oh yes have I been waiting for this day!

the langham, auckland, chuan spa

She asks me my preferred pressure for the massage and asks me to take a a few deep breaths and exhale while saying the word “Gong”. This is a little strange for me but I channel my Mother in Law and do as I am told. I lie back and relax for 1.5 hours of bliss. Afterwards I am shown the dream room, which is the room where I lie afterwards and can read magazines. She also gives me an Osmanthus Blossom Tea (Earth Element): properties/benefits – warms the stomach, dispels cold, clear toxins, soothes mouth infections including teeth and gum problems and a fire Elemental Juice of beetroot, turnip and carrot which is said to improve circulation throughout the body and tastes surprisingly good (the sound of turnip in a juice had me wary). I contemplate switching from a food blogger to a spa blogger…

the langham, auckland, chuan spa

I am also offered the use of the pool and spa outside but I quickly shower (gardenia scented body products in the shower-yum!) as I have an appointment with an afternoon tea! I meet with Mr NQN and Deanna from Tourism NZ and Rachel from The Langham who has arranged for a Wonderland Afternoon Tea along with a regular Afternoon Tea for us.

the langham, auckland, afternoon tea

Wonderland Afternoon Tea $36NZ per person

the langham, auckland, afternoon tea

Top layer of Wonderland Afternoon Tea

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The Dine with Peter Gordon Cooking Class, Auckland, New Zealand

It’s usually a bit of a battle to get Mr NQN to go along to a cooking class. He’s innately resistant to the idea of cooking but the lure of a cooking class at Peter Gordon’s restaurant Dine was hard for him to resist as he considers the meal cooked by him at Longrain among his favourites.  Peter Gordon is one of NZ’s most successful chefs and  one of most famous chef that they’ve exported. He does a mixture of Asian fusion cuisine and owns The Providores in London as well as being the former owner of the Sugar Club.

His restaurant Dine by Peter Gordon sits in the SkyCity Grand Hotel where we’re staying. It’s an early start this Sunday morning at 8:30am and the class is to conclude at 2:30pm after a spot of lunch-that we cook ourselves!

Sous Chef Nancye Pirini

We’re greeted by the offer of a cup of coffee or tea by Gregory, the maitre’d.  He hands us a striped apron and invites us into the kitchen where Nanyce and Giann introduce themselves. Nancye is the sous chef here and Giann works with her and they have a great rapport between them. She tells us that the kitchen itself is like a Fishtank so they are constantly being watched (which also spurs them to call each other names from Finding Nemo). Do they ever get people knocking on the window? All the time apparently including the host of Whose Line is It Anyway Wayne Brady who was staying at the hotel.

They show us the mise en place with the ingredients that we are to use today. Most of them are familiar albeit in a slightly different context than we’re used to. The first item is the plantain for which Nancye shows us two varieties, a long one and a short one the size of a sugar banana. The larger one has a more potato like taste to it whereas the smaller one has more flavour to it.

She shows us the tamarind paste that she makes up by mixing it with boiling water and allowing it to break then and then purees and sieves it. This can last for a long time in the fridge if the very top is covered with cling wrap. There are also wood ear mushrooms which have been rehydrated as well as gai larn.

Wood ear mushrooms

Rehydrated!

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Soul, Auckland, New Zealand

hunger non negotiable

Hunger is Non Negotiable sign at Elliott Stables

sky tower auckland

sky tower auckland

I’m a chicken with heights let me admit that right now. It’s this forceful fear that prevents me from getting up on a ladder beyond the fourth step and so I stand white knuckled, looking 186 metres down. Allow me to explain. With a little bit of time to kill we went to the Sky Tower where we could view the splendour of Auckland from 186 metres up. There is a see through rim where your sight can plunge all the way down to the ground. Even though the signs say that the glass is very thick, I’m not taking any chances and I walk gingerly around that (as does everyone else! :P ). An interesting tidbit is that the equivalent of 8,765,903 gumboots full of concrete were used to build the Sky Tower.

soul, auckland, captain feathersword

We met these folks at Sky Tower

It was a fairly clear day so we could see quite f into the distance while Mr NQN looked out for Louis Vuitton cup boats in the harbour below. I amused myself with buying bar of Pineapple Lump chocolate, something that I had seen my NZ friends get rather excited over. And we bumped into Captain Feathersword!

My lumps, my lumps, my lovely pineapple lumps!

elliott stables, auckland

We walk to downtown Auckland and do some shopping adn past Elliott Stables which are mostly closed this Sunday afternoon before making our way to the viaduct  harbourside area.

soul, auckland, view

soul, auckland, outside

We’re seated outside as we have requested and the light is quite bright shining in our eyes and on this Sunday afternoon the crowds seem relaxed. Service here reminds me of Sydney, some anxious serious floorstaff and the occasional relaxed waiter.

soul, auckland, kingfish

Marinated kingfish with ponzu, salmon caviar and shitake mushrooms $17.00

The very prettily presented kingfish dish which sounded so divine is a little overwhelmed with the black sesame and the sauce. It’s a good sized serving though for the sashimi style kingfish and I like the generous amount of roe on top.

soul, auckland, chowder

Soul’s chowder with hapuku, mussels, shrimps and saffron $17.50

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