Category Archives: Breakfast & Brunch

Joe Black, Surry Hills

joe black surry hills

I’m a firm believer in magic. Truly honestly I am and it’s the kind of thinking that makes my very scientific and logical husband just despair and roll his eyes with a tight, tolerant smile (think the same smile one gives to a potentially violent mental patient). So when I see an item on the cafe menu that says “Magic $3.50″ I point at the item in question and say to him “Look! I told you there was magic!”

joe black surry hills

joe black surry hills

We’re sitting at Joe Black which is a place near where Mr NQN works.  When I want Mr NQN to do something I go about it the wrong way. I do a version of a child tugging at their parent’s pants or skirt and repeat requests a lot. When Mr NQN wants to insist that we do something he simply mentions that “We really should go there” and he says it with such a serious tone that I know he means business. And several times he talked about the coffee at Joe Black and said “You really should go there” with that serious look replacing his usual impish countenance.

joe black surry hills

I have walked into Joe Black and have staked a place at the communal table while Mr NQN is parking the car. It’s a small cafe but with cosy service and they ask me if I would like a coffee while I am waiting. I’m uncertain and the barista holds up his palms and says “No pressure” while the girl behind the counter laughs and jokingly says “I’m just going to stare at you until you order” and pretends to stare avidly for a moment. I look around-there are walls full of memorabilia and just near the kitchen are four cookie jars suspended above the counter with cookies for $3  ranging from “chunky funky monkeys” to “giant rainbow cookies” and a rather amusing one called “Fresh Air” for $20-this of course being an empty cookie jar.

joe black surry hills

When Mr NQN arrives we take a seat at a table in a little further as its an unseasonably chilly Spring day. We face a wall of what look to be family school photos, along with a photo of what looks like someone’s first teenage car. Bags of moustache stamped coffee sit on the counter and a coffee siphon machine sits to one side. Mr NQN usually orders a long black but today he has the time to try a siphon coffee which takes time both to make and to drink as you usually let it sit for about 5 minutes. Both luxuries he can’t really afford on a busy work day.

joe black surry hills

They set down some enamel cups and brown beer bottles filled with water while we peruse the small, neat selection of menu items. There are five breakfast items available all day and four lunch items available after noon with a note that there is a “full menu coming soon (please be patient).” Items are described cheekily with items such as “granola with diced apple and berry compote (very fancy)” and “pikelet stack with stuff” and there’s a selection of sandwiches by John Daly randomly named after the notoriously unhealthy golfer.  We ask the waitress for her recommendations and whether we should get the steak sandwich or one of the sandwiches and she says “The steak sandwich, I can’t lie, it’s awesome.”

joe black surry hills

Flat white $3.50

The coffee as to be expected is very good and very drinkable with very little bitterness to it.

joe black surry hills

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Hemingway’s, Manly

hemmingways manly review

The menu reads: “hemingway’s manly is a small bar and casual dining spot with it’s tongue planted firmly in your cheek… He (chef Ben Pichon) wishes to acknowledge his influences: the colonel, mr. mcdonald, school canteens, ikea hot dogs & carnivals across the globe.”

hemmingways manly review

If there’s one thing I appreciate in any human being it’s a sense of humour. I just cannot bond with you unless you have one. So when I read the above line about the chef’s influences at Hemingway’s in Manly I was tickled pink and had to laugh. It also made me settle right in.

hemmingways manly review

It’s a menu housed in a book, a volume of “Collier’s Junior Classic: Harvest of Holidays” to be exact. The liquor and food are earmarked and the pages feature a neat selection of eight entrees, seven mains and three desserts. There are spins on childhood classics such as “chip degustation”, “2 minute noodles” and “pb &j”. Cocktails features Cottee’s lime cordial and aeroplane jelly and there are drinks from Passion Pop to “rap-video-level champagne” while bar snacks include chip buttys.

hemmingways manly review

hemmingways manly review

Open for eight weeks already Hemingway sits right on the beach facing the water so it’s at a scenic location. Downstairs is the bar which is already abuzz at 7pm on a Saturday night. Upstairs is the restaurant, still noisy, where Louise and Viggo are waiting for us. There’s a warm, homey and quirky atmosphere and black and white pictures of Ernest Hemingway line the walls including a picture of him and his cats. And why Hemingway’s? Did Ernest Hemingway have a bent towards Antipodean childhood food? No, it’s because the three owners admire Hemingway’s lifestyle-he drank, he loved women, he survived two plane crashes and he was a very masculine sort of guy.

hemmingways manly review

‘c o r n ’ charred sweet corn cob, lime butter & manchego cheese $6

We enjoy dining out with Louise and Viggo because they are also of the same thinking-try as much as possible and share. So we go a little wild with the dishes which the waitress explains are meant to be playful and shared. The kitchen is very organised and all of our entrees come within a few minutes of each other. The corn comes as two corn cobettes blanketed with tangy, rich manchego cheese and rolled all over with a delectable lime butter. The corn has just the right amount of char and yet the kernels are still plump and soft and the manchego cheese and lime butter give it a tangyness to offset the sweetness of the corn. If you are a corn freak like I am, order one plate for yourself because it will hurt giving your other half the remainder.

hemmingways manly review

‘c h i p s ’ daily chip degustation, matching sauces $12

How could anyone resist the chip degustation and from watching the other tables, it looks like this is a popular order. Here there are three types of chips (which can change daily) paired with three types of sauces. Today the chips are potato chips, sweet potato chips and onion rings and the three sauces are a tomato & date, home made ranch and a home made bbq sauce. The potato chips that come in a cup are home made and more of a softer wedge variety and aren’t super crisp although they aren’t bad, the sweet potato chips have some soft edges but the onion rings are juuust right. The three sauces are excellent and cover the spectrum of tastes and it’s hard to choose a favourite although the garlicky ranch dressing is a favourite as is the bbq. Louise and Viggo note that the sauces have improved from their first visit here when it first opened.

hemmingways manly review

‘ s c h o o l’ crispy school prawns, green tea salt, citrus mayo $9

I make fast work of the school prawns which come well seasoned, fried and crispy. They’re moreish little buggers and I like the slightly different green tea salt and citrus mayonnaise on the side.

hemmingways manly review

‘ t i n n e d f i s h ’ salmon ceviche, angostura bitters, avocado $12

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Hawthorn, Mosman

hawthorn mosman

I started off the sentence “Well my agent recommended this to me…” before trailing off and realising how terribly affected that sounded. Surely starting off a sentence proclaiming that you have an agent is similar just the precursor to speaking about yourself in the third person for example “Lorraine is hungry now. Please bring Lorraine something to eat chop chop!”

hawthorn mosman

But in this case it’s true (the agent recommendation, not the affectedness). You know I’m lucky enough to have people around me and readers that recommend places to me and it is true that my literary agent who lives in Mosman sent me an email one day recommending that I visit Hawthorn in no uncertain terms.

hawthorn mosman

In the olden days, in a past career, I managed a designer shoe store in Mosman just up the road from Hawthorn. We put all of the nicest, most expensive shoes in the window and none of them sold. The thing about Mosman is that it is very family focused and many people there have a mortgage and expensive cars that need paying off so once we figured this out, we put in the sale shoes in the window and they sold much better.

hawthorn mosman

So what’s my point? Well whilst the prices at Hawthorn seem very reasonable for an area such as Mosman, it also probably helps ensure its success. When we walk in towards the end of the lunch at 1:35pm the place is full with only two tables free. Only four weeks old it is full of ladies that lunch. Opened by the former general manager from Jonah’s in Whale Beach along with many of their staff (including George Francisco who is the consulting chef here) according to my agent (there I go again, sorry!) it has been busy every day for breakfast that she was walked past.

hawthorn mosman

It’s set in a building and as a former Mosman resident I am having some trouble remembering what was there. Built in 1901 it became a dental surgery in 1950 (and apparently causes some residents some distress when they visit the tiled bar-no doubt bad memories!) the owners seeing how the street was being developed intentionally had the building heritage listed to avoid the same happening to their building. The interior now is designed by owner Sean’s brother who owns Coco Republic so that it looks like a home-well perhaps not my home but the home of someone that has very good taste.

hawthorn mosman

Oysters with fire ice $4 each

We’re trying a few different things so they put together a share platter for us. The fire ice oysters are Sydney rock oysters with a granita of chilli on top. The granita melts quickly as it’s just a little dab so move fast if you want to experience the fire ice sensation, as it was the photo taking meant that it had melted by the time I got to them. The chilli was a sweet and spicy lift to the fresh Sydney rock oysters.

hawthorn mosman

Salad of sautéed prawns, green papaya, purple basil, Vietnamese mint with nahm jin and Tempura ricotta filled zucchini flowers with a basil pesto platter $30

My favourite item from this plate were the zucchini flowers, which are admittedly omnipresent across many menus but these ones are plump and stuffed with a cheesy slightly sweet filling punctuated with the light crunch of pine nuts and sweetness of currants with an earth shattering batter outside. The prawns with nam jinh are fresh and well cooked and served alongside a green papaya salad with plenty of Thai basil leaves.

hawthorn mosman

Halloumi, Semolina flash fried Hawkesbury River Calamari with Cajun remoulade and chorizo platter $30

We’re all halloumi freaks here and so a couple of halloumi dishes were ordered. The first one was the second platter where the halloumi was salty but quite thin and uneven in thickness. I like the halloumi pieces to be fatter to get that lovely squeak so I wasn’t as taken with the halloumi on this dish. The chorizo, always a crowd pleaser was generously portioned and garlicky but my favourite was the semolina crusted squid which had a gorgeous crunch and tenderness to it and was paired with a thick creamy spicy cajun mayonnaise. I’m sorry Marie Claire and Emma if I ate more than my share of this-truly!  ;)

hawthorn mosman

Fish of the Day, sautéed zucchini flowers, baby capers, wilted spinach, blood orange sauce $26

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Shenkin, Erskineville

Israeli food? Now that’s something of a missing cuisine here in Sydney insofar as restaurants or cafes go. Shenkin is a family business with five brothers, two of whom work here and one brother who owns the Max Brenner franchise (yes the Max Brenner franchise). As befits a family business their father bakes all of the cakes and pastries himself and the breads are home made too. One of the brothers tells us that their grandparents owns a bakery in Israel that is still operating now under the helm of their grandmother now that their grandfather has passed. And as for the name? Shenkin is named after the famous Shenkin Street in Tel Aviv and a photograph of it sits in prime position above the pastry display.

Making siphon coffee

A picture of Shenkin Street above the pastries

Given a renovation merely a week ago I was put onto it by the lovely @InnerWestMumma. The space is airy and welcoming and there is a window that opens up to the street so that patrons can order coffee from outside which also acts to open up the room and give it a breeziness on this hot, stifling Sydney weekend. There are also two other sections in the back and on in the side on the outside where diners can sit.

While we are waiting for our food I find myself lured to the pastry display (what’s new right?) and a friendly voice asks if I need any help. Service here is uniformly friendly and warm and there’s not a single snippy one in the bunch. The waitress talks me through all of the cakes but I think I have my heart set on the Napoleon. I am a vanilla slice freak from young and this one looks heavenly. “I’ll be back for you later!” I whisper to it under my breath giving it a sidelong glance.

Lemon and mint frappe $5.50

When we sat down one of the brothers (who later introduces himself as Din) asks us what we would like to order to drink. “Something refreshing? Do you want me to choose?” he asks and we nod. He ends up bringing the two drinks we had our eye on on the menu. The lemon and mint frappe is refreshingly sweet and tart with the freshness of mint and a scoop of lemon sorbet. Like an icey cold lemonade but better.

Pina Colada frappe $5.50

The alcohol free Pina Colada frappe is gorgeous with a perfect blend of coconut and little pieces of pineapple and is refreshingly tropical. Both drinks are perfect for this sweltering Sydney day.

Shakshuka $14.50 with labne $2.50

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The French House, Waterloo

the french house, waterloo

I feel  a huge responsibility when asked to choose a location for a get together, particularly if it’s for an interstate or overseas guest. I need it to a) suit that person’s likes and dislikes and b)  suit the other people coming along. And since the interstate visitor was Julia from Brisbane and my fellow diner was pastry chef Y it just had to feature something sweet. Lovely reader Crystal emailed me a few weeks ago to let me know about The French House and her quote “The kind (of place) you want to spend a whole afternoon chatting with your  girlfriends and eat their endless desserts ” clinched it for me.

the french house, waterloo

It’s a Sunday afternoon around 1pm and they don’t take bookings. No matter as Y and Julia are there waiting for me having nabbed a prime position in the middle of the room. There’s outside seating in the partially sun dappled balcony that wraps around and inside is a stunning gilt edged French style room. There’s black marble tables edged in gilt, mismatched furniture, black velvet lounges and opulence abounds. I watch a photogenic family of five feeding their children pastries and baguettes.

the french house, waterloo

Ordering is at the counter and we take turns getting up and perving at the selection. As I’ve missed breakfast I start with a ham and cheese croissant and unable to resist pastry I also opt for a mixed berry crumble danish. There are bread loaves available as well (from $4-$5.90) as well as a selection of baguettes and quiches (and one salad) and an array of about a dozen tarts and cakes.

the french house, waterloo

Ham & cheese croissant $5.90

Everything comes out on pretty decorative plates. The ham and cheese croissant has been toasted and filled simply with cheese and ham. I would have liked a bit more filling so that it wasn’t as dry but the pastry is flakey if not particularly buttery. I also prefer ham and cheese croissants to have some of that lovely soft cheese filling.

the french house, waterloo

Mixed Berry crumble Danish $4.50

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