“I think you use a syringe and you inject the soup into it”

“No no too fiddly, I think it’s like a blob of gelatine that they put in it”

“No no you’re both wrong. They cook the meat and the skin separately and then put them together and pour soup inside and seal them up”

Dumpling Auntie

It’s almost Chinese New year and as an avid Xiao Long Bao eater, I had always sworn to find out how they put the soup in these little beasties and when New Shanghai asked me if I would like to learn how to make these dumplings I jumped at the chance. My mother is also curious to know so she comes along. Shanghai dumplings seem to have taken over as the new Yum Cha and on weekends (and some weekdays) eager hordes queue to try these delicious little morsels.

Dumpling Auntie

Traditionally these dumplings are actually eaten as breakfast foods or snacks in the afternoon rather than the way in which we eat them here as lunch or dinner. Today the two dumpling aunties are going to show me how to make four of the dumplings. The fillings and dough are all made up already but they’ll show me how to fill them and Shirley and John who own New Shanghai will explain the differences in making each bun.

Roll the circle mainly around the outside…

So that the centre is slightly thicker than the edges

First up are the regular gyoza type dumplings. These are steamed and then pan fried. The skin for this and the Xiao Long Bao are the same although the Xiao Long Bao are rolled thinner. They show me how to roll the skin which has an emphasis on rolling out the sides leaving the centre slightly thicker as the sides are to be pinched and gathered together. I watch as the other dumpling auntie fills a dumpling with the pork filling and then cradles it between two fingers in the hollow of her thumb ad forefinger and pinches the sides using her right hand while turning the dumpling slightly with her left so that they can a slightly rounded shape.

Fill generously (fill with less if you are starting out though)

Pleat with thumb and index finger

Ta-da! Sort of…I’m not getting hired with this one

My turn! OK not bad, she kindly fixes it up for me before I see that it has made the cut (although they might have binned it when I turned away to avoid hurting my feelings ).  Each Dumpling Auntie has worked for years making these dumplings and they can make them all.

Xiao Long Bao attempt one

Hmm could have used some more pleats!

Second attempt: fail. No-one wants their meat showing do they?

Now for the Xiao Long Bao. They estimate that they make up to 1,000 of these a day. The secret to how they get the soup in them is this. John remains a little evasive I think in an effort to keep the secret recipe a secret but it is with pork skin broth which produces gelatinous cubes that once steamed, melt into a soup. The other trick to these is in the pleating.  You sit it in one hand (your left if you are right handed) and fold each over in tiny pleats using your pointer finger to fold it against the already folded pleats in a total of 22 pleats per dumpling!

Watching the pro do it

Pinch, pinch, pinch

And if you, like me, love the puffy, pan fried dumpling with the lovely burnished bottoms but often found that you were too full to eat them as they always arrive last I now know the reason why. The filling and method for these dumplings is the same as the Xiao Long Bao but the dough is a different yeast dough. They store the dough in the fridge and these dumplings are only made once an order is placed or the dough will start to puff and develop and the result will be a puffier, more porous dough.

My last attempt

In a powerful commercial steamer like this, Xiao Long Bao are steamed for a total of a mere two minutes

Once they are made (and these Dumpling Aunties only take a few minutes to make a batch), these are then moved onto the frypan area where they are placed in a lightly greased frypan and then once they sit there they ladle over about four ladles full of oil and 1 of water-yes water! This is then cooked for 10 minutes which explains why they take so long as each batch is cooked to order. And yes don’t lift the lid while you are cooking these as the water and oil combination is explosive!

Four ladles of oil and one ladle of water. Yes, seriously!

She’s a brave woman opening up the pan halfway through…

But look how purty they are!

Chinese proverb: a brave person opens up the pan fried dumpling pan once they are cooking

White Tea $3.50 per person

A couple of weeks later dumpling fiend Mr NQN and take a seat to try these dumplings for ourselves. It’s busy with a crowd gathered at the front. We take a seat and the crowd is mixed-there are Chinese families as well as people from all sorts of ethnicities. The design inside here evokes that of a Shanghai alley and there definitely appears to be an effort to raise this above the usual Shanghai dumpling eateries. There is a selection of teas from white tea, spiral green tea, dragon as well green tea as well as additional extras like XO sauce (a divine and extravagant mixture of dried scallops, dried shrimp, chilli, garlic and Yunnan or Jinhua ham)  for $2 for a small serve- I looove XO sauce (I’ve considered carrying it around with me)!

XO chilli sauce $2

#514 Stir fried Chinese rice cake with blue swimmer crab $18.80

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There’s a brutal change in seasons around this time of the year. For us Sydney-siders it happened this past two weeks. Rain poured down relentlessly, laundry went unwashed for some, dryers spun for others, shoes got soaked and umbrellas bore the brunt of most of the pluvious assault. Then it became sunny but cruelly the temperature dipped to the low teens. So what does a good eater do in times of these? Ok your first reaction might be to seek the sunny Summertime shores of the Northern hemisphere (and I’m coming in your bag) or embrace the Wintry cold by indulging in my favourite Winter past time. Stuffing oneself with dumplings.

Wang Wang Silver Star is a newish place on busy Anzac Parade in Kingsford. Serving Shanghai style dumplings it was a closer version than busy Ashfield’s Liverpool Road. The dumplings were said to be good although the general consensus is that they were no Shanghai Night. We were a motley crew that night, my parents wanted to have dinner with Mr NQN and I and my mum asked us to invite along the Assman (Mr NQN’s brother). Ahem…yes the Assman has this effect on many women.

At 7pm, it’s busy and there’s  queue outside. My parents seem to know the place so they tell us that there’s an upstairs where we head towards winding past the boxes of tissues, plastic spoons as the stairwell is used for storage. Despite it being fairly new, the double sided laminated picture menu already shows signs of being pored over again and again. Some dumplings are priced per dumpling (these are the larger fluffy white baos) whilst most are grouped together in lots of 4 or 6. Prices are higher than Ashfield but they would never qualify as expensive under anyone’s definition.

Kelp salad $3

Alas this is nothing like the moreishly fabulous Japanese seaweed salad but it’s not bad. Slightly slimy as seaweed is, it’s flavoured with garlic and soy sauce and is served cold.

BBQ Pork buns $1.20

Nicely fluffy and enormous, the filling is filled with the distinct aroma of cinnamon which is odd. I’m not sure if this was a strange batch and whether these are meant to taste like cinnamon.

Shanghai Steamed Mini Pork Buns $4.80

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