Category Archives: French

Le Grand Cafe by Becasse, Sydney CBD

I should really subtitle this story to be “How much can a petite female food blogger eat?”. Even though Karen and I have both polished off 2 burgers not only 30 minutes ago, we find ourselves compelled and positively drawn to the Alliance Francaise building opposite Bécasse where their chef Justin North has just opened up a cafe a mere 5 weeks ago where he supplies them all manner of French goodies. What we had originally intended as a quick dessert stop (which was completely and wholly unnecessary given the prior ingestion of food), turned into a full blown affair once we saw the menu. Oh yes it was good and it was very reasonably priced so what’s a girl to do? Ladies, you’re with me right?

Our waiter Brad is very friendly and says that this must be our first time as he’s never seen us before which  is nice and personal service indeed. He lets us know that we order at the counter and then asks if we can understand the menu. We both speak Menu French so we’re safe. After much dithering we hone in on the favourites and order those. Sadly only one is not available – the Citrus Mille Feuille but we take his suggestion of the chocolate pot.

Display of goodies

Frisee aux Lardons $10

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Ripples, Sydney Wharf, Pyrmont for a Chef’s Table experience

When the lovely Prue from The Mint Partners invited me along with a small group of other bloggers to the 11 week old Ripples on Sydney Wharf in Pyrmont, I couldn’t have said yes fast enough. I’d dined at Ripples Milsons Point before but that was only for breakfast. This time she said, we’d be partaking in the dinner menu and in a special spot: sitting right in front of the action at the Chef’s Table. I’d heard of Chef’s Tables before, mainly at overseas restaurants, but had never dined at one so I was particularly excited about this.

Head Chef Richard Park

It’s an intermittently raining evening tonight but even that can’t dampen my enthusiasm. And true to form, the Chef’s Table is exactly that and we are seated bar style watching Chef Richard Park and his efficient team fly into action. New Zealand born Park formerly of Aqua Dining and Kables, creates exquisite French bistro style cuisine.

We discuss how much we love lunching during Winter when the sun is shining but it’s not swelteringly hot and Ripples’ Manager Andrew Roebuck tells us about some very loyal customers, who despite living in Mosman (where there already exists a Ripples in Chowder Bay), have dined here every Sunday lunchtime with a changing group of friends for the last few weeks. They stay from 1pm until 7pm and make the most of the location and view. The menu is very reasonably priced, somewhat of a miracle for a Waterfront restaurant in Sydney with mains ranging from $24-29.

Crusty French Epi bread with anchovy butter $7

Our first tastes for the evening are the Epi bread (from Brasserie Bread if I’m not mistaken) with a variety of butters and toppings. The crusty Epi sourdough is lovely with the anchovy butter which has the distinct but not overwhelming taste of anchovy.

Crusty Epi bread with olive tapenade and pesto butter $8

Duck liver parfait with cranberry jelly, onion marmalade and pickled prune $11

The olive tapenade and pesto butter is delicious and true to flavour but my favourite is undoubtedly the duck liver parfait with onion marmalade and pickled prunes in Earl Grey tea. It is a sweet, salty and aromatically rich start to the meal.

Spring Bay Scallop with fennel salad

We are also given a new season’s Spring Bay Scallop with fennel salad as the season has only just commenced. It’s fresh and tastes of the sea combined with the rich scallop roe.

Shucking and prepping the oysters

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Yuletide Pork dinner at Restaurant Atelier, Glebe

Christmas in May? If you know me, you know that I’m a believer in Christmas at any time (why limit yourself to once a year?) and the chance to dine at Restaurant Atelier in Glebe and eat Pork is pretty much like a trifecta when you combine it with Christmas. Restaurant Atelier is located in a brick cottage on busy Glebe Point Road and is run by the gorgeously personable couple Bernadette at the front of house and Darren Templeman as the chef who is protege of Bruno Loubet. Darren is the perfect choice to host the evening – as a Yorkshire boy certainly knows his way around a pig. Thanks to the amazing Mel from Fooderati and Stewart from Whiteworks, a gaggle of us bloggers are dining alongside other food industry notables.

Bernadette

We start off with Pork Neck Rillette, Cornichon, Green Beans served in a Witlof leaf. The rillette is deliciously soft and melt in the mouth, subtly perfumed and flavoured with cognac and wine and perfectly paired with witlof. Wines are provided by the Piggs Peake winery – no coincidence that with a name like that they caught the attention of the Australian Pork people but as Mitch from Australian Pork explains, they found that they loved the wine beyond merely the name which was a serendipitous occurrence.

The pink elephant in the room is of course the Swine Flu which tonight’s news report says is at a critical stage in Australia where we were warned that it was about to spreading very fast here with the number of reported patients at over 60. Of course what was clearly told to us from the very beginning (and to much relief) is that eating pork does not give you Swine Flu. In fact the current Swine Flu or H1N1 is passed from human to human rather than pig to human. *Phew* Bacon, ham and pork, come to mama!

Clockwise from left: Grilled pickled loin of pork with celeriac remoulade, Honey glazed pork hock with roasted apples and Pulled Pork Neck salad with Crystal Bay Prawns

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Tastevin Bistro and Wine Bar, Darlinghurst

Supper hour is an hour that goes largely uncatered for in Sydney. If you have a hankering for something late at night, most restaurants will have their last orders around 9.30-10pm and aim to have you out by 11pm. So for the supper loving or those the choices usually involve a trip to Chinatown to partake of some BBQ King or Mamak. Tastevin in Darlinghurst however keeps Night Owl hours opening their bistro until midnight and their wine bar with snacks until 2am.

Tonight Mr NQN and I are dining at a more “normal” time for my birthday dinner with Teena, Gina, Philippe and HotDog. When I get there I accidentally walk into Spice I am next door before I realise I’m in the wrong place. It’s tastefully decorated in a Parisian apartment chic style (oh how I love thee!) and we’re seated at a banquette, which they assure us is the best table. They know it’s my birthday and they’re very sweet and accommodating. Lighting is of the “romantic” kind (i.e. dark – especially the bathrooms where we almost feel our way about!) so please forgive the photos.

As I’ve been eating all afternoon I opt for a couple of entrees so we order a good range of things from the menu.

Bread selection $12  for 3

The bread selection is nice and fresh. There’s a seeded bread with fennel seeds and a fresh white baguette. I prefer the white baguette although the amount of French butter so this serve is minuscule with a small 2.5cms diameter round slice (we don’t get three times the amount of butter which we should have given that we’ve ordered three lots of bread).

Rock Oyster with Champagne vinegar and cracked black pepper $3 each

Gnocchi a la Parisienne, sauteed mushroom and white truffle mornay $16

My Gnocchi a la Parisienne is delicious. Tiny potato gnocchi are interspersed with pieces of soft mushroom and this is all coated in a creamy mornay sauce with cheese with a lightly scented truffle oil. I eat every last drop of this, scraping the plate with  my spoon.

Endive salad with Roquefort mousse, citrus and candied walnut $16

Mr NQN’s endive and pear salad certainly looks impressive. I usually steer away from endive as I find it too bitter but this one isn’t at all, with the sweet balsamic dressing and creamy Roquefort mousse assisting in this regard.

Pithivier of Escargot with beetroot $17

I love Pithiviers (little pies) and this one has escargot (snails) encased in a little igloo shaped puff pastry pie. The escargot when encased in a pie aren’t particularly distinct tasting, in fact they could be mushrooms or something similar and it’s mostly puff pastry rather than filling, but it is delicious, particularly with the sweet beetroot emulsion.

Confit of Duck $29

My husband’s confit of duck is delicious and as you’d expect, it comes away from the bone with ease.

Spatchcock $28

Lemon Sole $28

The lemon sole is moist and soft with most of the lemon flavour on top. It’s a whole sole so the serve is generous and it is accompanied by peas. I usually adore peas but these are underseasoned.

Beef $29

The beef is deliciously tender although Teena and Gina say that they prefer a classic Bernaise to the rich Roquefort which they feel overwhelms the beef.

Apple Tart  with Honey Almond Nougat icecream $13

The apple tart is a thin layer of very buttery pastry with paper thin slices of apple accompanied with a lightly crunchy honey nougat ice cream. The tart is delicious, very freshly baked so that it is crisp and the ice cream is a delicious accompaniment and a nice alternative to vanilla. And since it’s my birthday it comes with a sparkler and a song!

Chocolate Cake with vanilla bean anglaise $12

Sadly, the chocolate fondant is a disappointment. The flavour seems almost watered down for what should be a deliciously rich dessert.

Creme Caramel de Maman $11

On the other hand, the Creme Caramel which is sublime and moreish. I adore this and the custary eggy texture and scoop up every drop of the delicately wobbly custard edged with caramel.

We didn’t have time or inclination to visit the bar but it looked inviting.

And because you know I love lighting fixtures…

Tastevin Bistro and Wine Bar

292-294 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst, NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 9356 3429
Open 12noon-2am
Closed Tuesdays
http://www.tastevin.com.au/

Assiette, Surry Hills for a recession busting lunch

I know that technically we aren’t in a recession but from all reports and behaviours, the restaurant scene is indeed experiencing one. A friend works at one of the top restaurants in Sydney and she told me that patronage is down a whopping 70% at her restaurant. Add to this the specials coming thick and fast, from March into Merivale, Glass, Marque, Bentley, Foveaux and Quay offering their own version of the Parisian style set lunch. And we are more the happier for it.

Today I’m lunching with Mr Gatsby who, being a keen food lover, has alerted me to what has to be Sydney’s best lunch deal. For $30 on a Friday, you can get a 3 course meal at the one hatted Assiette restaurant. Yes. Three courses. And they’re goodies too. I was looking forward to this having tried Assiette’s loin and crumbed belly of lamb with basil mayonnaise and a tomato olive jus at the Taste of Sydney event.

The kitchen-yes that’s the entire space!

I’m struck at how small the kitchen is. It’s a room that seats 50 and the kitchen seems tiny for the amount of people that they would need to cook for. Mr Gatsby assures me that it indeed proceeds at a flaming pace on a booked up Saturday night.

We’re shown 3 menus, the a la carte, the degustation and the Prix Fixe menu for $30. The Prix Fixe menu has some fine sounding dishes there so we order that happy in the knowledge that no children or bodily organs will need to be sold to pay for this. The menu appears to be Modern Australian ingredients with  French techniques.

The crunchy sourdough bread is warm and in the traditional sourdough pointed shape.

Sweet corn and basil veloute

We’re served our entrees. Mine is a creamily delicious corn veloute with tiny basil croutons floating on top and finished with a basil oil. It’s delicious and I spoon this slowly and appreciatively.

Thai style crispy pork with chili lime dressing

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