If I asked you which cuisine Tafelspitz came from you might be wavering and hazard a guess that it sounded vaguely Germanic. But if I asked you which cuisine Sacher torte came from I have a feeling that you might immediately guess Austrian cuisine. It has been a couple of years since my visit to Austria but it still remains a fond memory. I had gone over primarily to visit the Christmas Markets but while we were there I got to try some of Austrian food, not a particularly well known cuisine here in Australia. It’s a cuisine quite different to German cuisine given the Austro-Hungarian connection.

One of my most vivid memories was a 10am visit to the Hotel Sacher in Vienna to try the Sacher torte, the very famous dense chocolate cake split and filled with apricot jam and enrobed in more chocolate. I had tried Sacher torte here and wondered what the fuss was about. And then I tried the one at Hotel Sacher and it was deliciously moist and moreish and suddenly I knew why it became so famous. And keep reading Dear Reader, if you would like a chance to win a whole Sacher-torte of your very own flown all the way over from the Hotel Sacher in Vienna!

Back to the present though. I’m at the Shangri-La hotel in The Rocks to try some of the Austrian food for the Taste Austria dinner as part of the Austrian week of food where they have flown over the Hotel Sacher’s chef Werner Pichlmaier for the occasion. From the 1st to the 6th of August (yes today is the last day!) diners at Altitude restaurant can try Austrian dishes such as Sacher Tafelspitz Aspic, Pike Perch, Rack of Deer and Onion Sirloin Steak and of course Sacher torte. Or if you just want to try the cake the Shangri-La is also selling Sacher tortes to take away for $95 for a 6 person cake if you go into the hotel. But remember after today they will not be available! We’re in for a slightly different menu tonight but one nonetheless quintessentially Austrian.

Travelling to Austria for a meal can seem unwieldy for most and we learn during the course of the evening that people have not only travelled for this evening from as far as Nambucca Heads, but also Townsville and Perth to attend this dinner. The idea behind this Taste Austria dinner is not only to try modern Austrian classics but also to match the food to Austrian wine and the other thing that Austria is known for, classical music. When I walk in an ensemble from the Sydney Symphony Orchestra is playing.

The evening starts with a welcome from Austrian Wine Marketing Board’s Willi Klinger who explains the wines that we will be having with our meals. Grüner Veltliner is the predominant wine in Austria and although Austria lies at the same latitude as Burgundy, there are large temperature differences with hot Summer days and cool nights. He calls Austrian wines more ”intellectual” before correcting himself (there was a reaction to that of course ) to say that they are instead “sensual” wines. And interestingly, it has been said that Grüner Veltliner is a good match for Chinese and Asian cuisine which can be notoriously hard to match.

Horseradish marshmallow with lardo, cream of Jerusalem artichokes, Western Australian truffles served with Schloss Gobelsburg Sekt

Now I did read that this was a horseradish marshmallow but I didn’t expect that it would be a horseradish marshmallow! Which sounds silly I know but there is the striking horseradish quality to the confection but it is also very, very sweet much like a spongey fresh marshmallow. It’s sits underneath a paper thin crispy wafer which is crossed with a crisp piece of lardo. On the right is a cup of velvety smooth cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup which has an amazingly aromatic slice of Western Australian truffle-so aromatic that when it is placed in front of me I can smell the truffle before I see it.

Tartare of milk fed veal, yabbies with beetroot served with 2009 Donabaum Thal Smaragd Gruner Veltliner

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I’ve spoken here many times about my friend M, originally from Austria, who I bonded with in the corporate jungle over the subject of food. We both didn’t expect to become such fast and good friends, well actually I didn’t have any preconceptions but she recently told me that she didn’t think she and I would have anything in common when she first saw me, but food has a mysterious way of bonding people. And all the better for me, because she has introduced me to all things Austrian. When she sent me an email asking if I’d like to come with her and her boys to the Austrian Club for the Krampus and Nikolo Christmas event, I said yes (of course after googling what Krampus and Nikolo were as I had no idea what they were!).

Oompapa band Tyrolian Echo

For those of you that have never heard of it before, on December 5th, the chain wielding Devil figure (Krampus), comes running through the cities and country areas of Austria searching for naughty children that he beats with hazelnut branches (yes really, I’m not making this up!). He drags the chains and generally creates a lot of commotion. Then on December 6th Nikolo arrives, he is Santa Claus or Saint Nicholas as we know him, and he roams the street with Krampus giving out little gifts to children. According to Wikipedia: “The present day Krampus costume consists of wooden masks or Larve, sheep’s skin and horns. Considerable effort goes into the manufacture of the hand-crafted masks, as many younger adults in rural communities engage competitively in the Krampus events.” So you see why I just had to say yes. And do try image googling “Krampus”, you may think you’ve come across a bunch of Lordi fans.

At 8pm we buy our $12 admission tickets to the event (I break out my rusty High School German which actually seems to be a vague approximation of what I should say) and walk into the Austrian Hall. It’s full and there’s an Oompapa band, The Tyrolian Echoes, playing all of the oldies and goodies including Edelweiss (and is it bizarre I know all of the words to this?) coaxing the attendees onto the floor by playing their favourites.

Trophies and a tall Christmas tree

We’ve eaten a bit beforehand but a quick look at the night’s special menu convinces us to share one dish and have some desserts. They’re an organised and orderly lot these Austrians and the waitress lets us know that desserts will be served at 8.30pm as they’re made fresh and mains before then to help with serving the many guests here tonight.

There’s also Christmas Stollen available for purchase tonight.

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Revisiting Double Bay brings back memories of high school years. Things don’t seem to have changed much although some shops change, for the most part, Double Bay stays the same. Tonight, we’re after a hearty feed after a day of recreation so its off to Una’s Double Bay. It comforting to know that in a suburb dubbed “Double Pay” that you can get a huge, well priced meal.

Una’s used to exist only in the Darlinghurst location churning out gigantic schnitzel after schnitzel and piles of roesti and cabbage salad. It was very busy as the servings were enormous but very well priced but the service rather autocratic with a woman ruthlessly manning the tables in order to get the maximum number of eaters per table each night. Turnover was fast and you weren’t supposed to linger and you and your party were only seated once everyone had arrived. But since opening up the Double Bay and Broadway locations its been markedly easier to get a table at Una’s and as they have a no bookings policy, we are thankful for the two new additions.

Organic Ginger Beer $3.90

Double Bay has a more gentle feel to it than the frenetic pace of the original Darlinghurst version. Its busy but there are a few tables free. Our friendly waitress escorts us to our table and we drink in the surroundings. Its wood paneled and there are requisite painted wooden chairs and decorated in Una’s unmistakable style. We peruse the menu, its slightly different from the one on the website but I am honing in on the one item that I want: schnitzel!

I order the Jager chicken Schnitzel with the mushroom sauce on the side as I like my schnitzel to be as crispy as possible down to the last second it hits my hungry mouth. It comes with a side order of cabbage salad and the roesti. I want to order the cabbage rolls for my husband but they are out of them so I order the Pork Knuckle which he gripes and moans about. Being raised a vegetarian but being an omnivore for the past 7 years, he doesn’t like the idea of having a chunk of meat and swiftly forgets that he has ordered lamb shanks many a time. Aiyana and Tuuliki share a fettucine provencale, extra roesti side, crumbed mushrooms and Davs orders the Gypsy veal schnitzel. An order of deep fried camembert is for the table, I’d yet to try deep fried cheese so I practically insist on it.

Crumbed mushrooms $7.90

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