Category Archives: German & Austrian

An Austrian Christmas Tradition-Krampus & Nikolo

I’ve spoken here many times about my friend M, originally from Austria, who I bonded with in the corporate jungle over the subject of food. We both didn’t expect to become such fast and good friends, well actually I didn’t have any preconceptions but she recently told me that she didn’t think she and I would have anything in common when she first saw me, but food has a mysterious way of bonding people. And all the better for me, because she has introduced me to all things Austrian. When she sent me an email asking if I’d like to come with her and her boys to the Austrian Club for the Krampus and Nikolo Christmas event, I said yes (of course after googling what Krampus and Nikolo were as I had no idea what they were!).

Oompapa band Tyrolian Echo

For those of you that have never heard of it before, on December 5th, the chain wielding Devil figure (Krampus), comes running through the cities and country areas of Austria searching for naughty children that he beats with hazelnut branches (yes really, I’m not making this up!). He drags the chains and generally creates a lot of commotion. Then on December 6th Nikolo arrives, he is Santa Claus or Saint Nicholas as we know him, and he roams the street with Krampus giving out little gifts to children. According to Wikipedia: “The present day Krampus costume consists of wooden masks or Larve, sheep’s skin and horns. Considerable effort goes into the manufacture of the hand-crafted masks, as many younger adults in rural communities engage competitively in the Krampus events.” So you see why I just had to say yes. And do try image googling “Krampus”, you may think you’ve come across a bunch of Lordi fans.

At 8pm we buy our $12 admission tickets to the event (I break out my rusty High School German which actually seems to be a vague approximation of what I should say) and walk into the Austrian Hall. It’s full and there’s an Oompapa band, The Tyrolian Echoes, playing all of the oldies and goodies including Edelweiss (and is it bizarre I know all of the words to this?) coaxing the attendees onto the floor by playing their favourites.

Trophies and a tall Christmas tree

We’ve eaten a bit beforehand but a quick look at the night’s special menu convinces us to share one dish and have some desserts. They’re an organised and orderly lot these Austrians and the waitress lets us know that desserts will be served at 8.30pm as they’re made fresh and mains before then to help with serving the many guests here tonight.

There’s also Christmas Stollen available for purchase tonight.

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The Austrian Club, Frenchs Forest

I had told a friend of mine, M, about Una’s at Double Bay and how their Schnitzels came with sauce. “PFfffttt!!” she said indignantly “Schnitzel should never come with sauce!!”. As a proud Austrian, she is highly opinionated on the foods from her native land. And I in turn, vowed never to serve her Austrian food, should I get in trouble for fiddling with it.

We walk into The Austrian Club this cold, Wintry night, our stomachs happily anticipating a large meal full of meat and potatoes and various other ingredients that make up Austrian cuisine. The Austrian Club is situated in Frenchs Forest, close to other National clubs such as the Czech club and the Danish Club. Of course we are going here with M and her monkey-toting son I. After 15 years in Australia, this is her first time to the club. On the outside she says that it is much like a typical Austrian building, white with brown trim and a fire bell at the top. And the sign outside proudly sports Gösser beer, the popular Austrian Beer. So far so good.

Inside, it looks quaint and is comfortable like a hall with checked tablecloth covered tables and we are reassured by M, that it looks just like back home. She point out the various details, from the curtains to the wall plaques and the signs that would separate foreigners from natives.

Stammtisch-VIPs only!

For example there is the “Stammtisch” sign above a table which reserves that tables for the elders or regulars. An Austrian would never sit at that table unless they were one and each club would have one of these tables put aside for their special patrons. The fixtures above the lights she says are based on the equipment that they use on the oxen that plough the fields in Austria.

Hoof hook

Food orders are taken at the table by the wait staff and drinks are ordered a the nearby bar. And it’s cash only for both (which threw us a little and had us hurriedly counting cash in wallets and nominating people to wash dishes).

Almdudler

We order with the advice from M as to what is typically Austrian and then she comes back from the bar with cans of Almdudler, a popular Austrian soft drink flavoured lightly with herbs (much like a Chi drink). The red can features an Alpine looking couple and it’s said to be their National drink, second only to Coca Cola in sales, although it doesn’t contain caffeine and the taste is light and refreshing.

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Una’s, Double Bay

Una’s at Double Bay

Revisiting Double Bay brings back memories of high school years. Things don’t seem to have changed much although some shops change, for the most part, Double Bay stays the same. Tonight, we’re after a hearty feed after a day of recreation so its off to Una’s Double Bay. It comforting to know that in a suburb dubbed “Double Pay” that you can get a huge, well priced meal.

Una’s at Double Bay outside

Una’s used to exist only in the Darlinghurst location churning out gigantic schnitzel after schnitzel and piles of roesti and cabbage salad. It was very busy as the servings were enormous but very well priced but the service rather autocratic with a woman ruthlessly manning the tables in order to get the maximum number of eaters per table each night. Turnover was fast and you weren’t supposed to linger and you and your party were only seated once everyone had arrived. But since opening up the Double Bay and Broadway locations its been markedly easier to get a table at Una’s and as they have a no bookings policy, we are thankful for the two new additions.

Una’s at Double Bay Organic Ginger Beer
Organic Ginger Beer $3.90

Double Bay has a more gentle feel to it than the frenetic pace of the original Darlinghurst version. Its busy but there are a few tables free. Our friendly waitress escorts us to our table and we drink in the surroundings. Its wood paneled and there are requisite painted wooden chairs and decorated in Una’s unmistakable style. We peruse the menu, its slightly different from the one on the website but I am honing in on the one item that I want: schnitzel!

Una’s at Double Bay Menu

I order the Jager chicken Schnitzel with the mushroom sauce on the side as I like my schnitzel to be as crispy as possible down to the last second it hits my hungry mouth. It comes with a side order of cabbage salad and the roesti. I want to order the cabbage rolls for my husband but they are out of them so I order the Pork Knuckle which he gripes and moans about. Being raised a vegetarian but being an omnivore for the past 7 years, he doesn’t like the idea of having a chunk of meat and swiftly forgets that he has ordered lamb shanks many a time. Aiyana and Tuuliki share a fettucine provencale, extra roesti side, crumbed mushrooms and Davs orders the Gypsy veal schnitzel. An order of deep fried camembert is for the table, I’d yet to try deep fried cheese so I practically insist on it.

Una’s at Double Bay Crumbed mushrooms
Crumbed mushrooms $7.90

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