Category Archives: Modern Australian

A Masterclass With Peter Gilmore & Dinner At Quay, Circular Quay

quay peter gilmore masterclass

quay peter gilmore masterclass

I am sitting in the Green Room of Quay and a comely dessert winks at me from a plate. A voice to my right says

“Peter Gilmore is my pimp”

The voice belongs to Quay owner John Fink. Apparently this dessert possesses magical powers and he has used it many times to charm a date. But I shan’t get ahead of myself. Allow me to rewind a little.

Earlier that evening, we are seated in front of the upstairs kitchen in the Green Room of Quay restaurant, ranked #27 in the San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. I am a guest of Electrolux and one of a lucky bunch of people who are privy enough to attend a masterclass with Peter Gilmore. Gilmore is the new ambassador for Electrolux along with long standing ambassador Tetsuya Wakuda. The upstairs kitchen in the Green Room has been fitted out as a domestic kitchen with an Electrolux induction cooktop and steam oven.

quay peter gilmore masterclass

Chef Peter Gilmore

This evening we are being shown how to make a dish that will appear on an upcoming menu as well as a dish that he considers one of his signature dishes. He starts by popping a large crab claw in the steam oven which he places in a vacuum sealed bag to keep the juices in and to reduce mess.

quay peter gilmore masterclass

Gilmore inhales the aroma of the summer truffle

He then produces a summer truffle-these are usually thought of as lesser truffles with the winter truffles being the prize at $2,000 a kilo. The summer truffles this year though are wonderfully fragrant and much better priced at $800-$900 a kilo. He shaves it into some milk heating in a saucepan and to this he adds to some eggs to make a custard. He then takes a small round dish and pours a little in it and wraps this in some cling wrap and places this in the steam oven to steam it to a wobbly, delicate texture.

quay peter gilmore masterclass

quay peter gilmore masterclass

White squash grown specially for them in the Blue Mountains

Next up is some white squash. He uses a Japanese mandolin to slice the squash paper thinly and he will then briefly blanch it and brush it with oil. He tells us of how he has a farmer in the Blue Mountains that grows special produce for him. The farmer started off growing things exclusively for Quay but they became so popular they have now expanded to supply to other restaurants. Gilmore uses a fashion analogy and explains that there are some things that for the first season the farmer will grow an item exclusively for Quay but for seasons thereafter they can sell the same item to the other restaurants.

quay peter gilmore masterclass

Cracking the crab claw

quay peter gilmore masterclass

Prising out all of the meat

It’s time to deal with the large crab claw. To make an amuse bouche for the crowd of seventeen of us, he wraps it in a teatowel and hits it with the knife to crack the shell. He extracts about 100grams of meat from the crab and separates it into small pieces. He separates some eggs and whisks the whites and adds these and the yolks mixed with crab to them and folds the whole mixture so that it retains the fluffiness of the whites while still combining the components.

quay peter gilmore masterclass

Adding the crab and egg mixture to the 100C oil

He then takes these to the induction cooktop which is set to setting 2 which takes the saucepans of oil to 100C and gently poaches them in the oil. The oil isn’t crackling or sizzling and he gently turns them over to cook on the other side where they end up a pale yellow shade.

quay peter gilmore masterclass

The dish!

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Burnt Orange, Mosman

burnt orange, mosman

I find that through fate or folly that I am often the person that people ask where to eat. It’s either readers who are looking for a place to eat in Sydney or interstate or friends or family. I don’t mind of course, it is of course yet another chance to talk about food. But when my sister Blythe visisted Sydney from London she and my family asked me to find somewhere. The brief was simple enough yet it was complicated.

burnt orange, mosman

It had to have a gorgeous Sydney view to reorient my sister who was used to London views

It had to be impressive enough for my mother

It had to have reasonably priced meals to make Mr NQN happy

It had to have a shop attached to it as I needed to do some gift shopping

It had to have something to amuse my impossible to please father. Hmm ok that’s a hard one. Let’s just cut our losses and go with the first four points.

burnt orange, mosman

Burnt Orange is housed in a Federation style mansion, formerly the Mosman golf club in the 1930s. It is a cafe with a lovely view slash boutique slash gallery. We park at the carpark next door ($3-4 an hour!) and take the short walk down the path to the large timber and stone house. There is a wrap around verandah for diners and inside is the retail store. The Burnt Orange concept was from an Irish company called Avoca (they serve Avoca bread).

burnt orange, mosman

Jug of homemade lemonade $8

While we’re browsing the menu we order a large jug of still homemade lemonade which comes out in a pitcher with a wooden spoon, cut strawberries and mint leaves. It’s slightly bitter as of course it is lemonade, too lemony for my mother and Blythe who are not really into home made lemonades but I find it quite pleasant.

burnt orange, mosman

Elderflower pressé $6

The Elderflower presse is gorgeously refreshing and floral with the aroma of Elderflower from the first sip and delicate bubbles.

burnt orange, mosman

burnt orange, mosman

Australian Antipasti platter: Princi prosciutto, Affineur truffle salami and bresaola with mixed olives, dips and house chutney $26

Service is sweet and friendly and from reading reviews it has improved vastly. A very generous serve which could feed at least three for an entree, the antipasti platters comes out with some heavenly bresaola (smoked beef), prosciutto and Affineur truffle salami which is heady in fennel seed. It also comes with the Avoca walnut bread and a sourdough rye both thinly sliced, the Avoca walnut bread the clear favourite with it’s rich nuttiness and almost cake-like texture. There were also two dips in a shared container: hommous and baba gannoush as well as a tomato relish and a pear chutney which were all made on the premises. To finish it off are black and green olives and cornichons.

burnt orange, mosman

Tasmanian salmon cake served on a crisp salad of baby cress & granny smith apple with a lemon mayonnaise $21

The mains come out together and we start with the Tasmanian salmon cake which is a nice surprise. We had expected a fried cake (for my mother) but instead we get fresh, well cooked poached salmon, potato, herbs and baby capers with salad. The salmon is fresh and singing with dill and it’s a very generous sized portion and excellent value.

burnt orange, mosman

burnt orange, mosman

Burnt Orange fish pie with a selection of fresh fish fillets in a creamy leek & white wine sauce topped with fluffy potato mash and a side of green leaves $24

One of the most popular items on the menu is the fish pie which is filled with large, tender chunks of white fish and salmon (not at all watery as some fish pies can be) and a creamy sauce flavoured with fennel and celery which gives some mouthfuls an ever so slightly bitter taste to an otherwise creamy sauce. it’s topped with mashed potato and then baked until it has slightly crispy edges on top and is paired with a large green salad. I did like this dish although I did find some mouthfuls had that ever so slight bitterness to them.

burnt orange, mosman

Moroccan-spiced lamb with fig & almond cous cous $25

The moroccan spiced lamb is cooked until soft and falls apart. It was a hit with everyone, especially when we paired it with the tomato relish which we still had from the antipasti plate. The lamb was well flavoured and matched with a fruity sweet couscous which had Turksih apricots and currants in it.

burnt orange, mosman

Chicken pie with preserved lemon & rosemary, spring vegetables and flaky puff pastry $24

This one was quite a favourite with everyone-Mr NQN was appreciating the serving sizes here and even he couldn’t finish everything on the plates. The chicken pie is filled with a tomato based sauce, chicken thigh pieces, chickpeas, carrots, peas, preserved lemon and rosemary and topped with a layer of home made buttery puff pastry. The sauce was rich and given a lift from the preserved lemon and the buttery puff was good indeed.

burnt orange, mosman

Pumpkin, goat’s cheese & walnut tart with Melissa’s carrot jam and fresh herb greens $18

With the sizeable portions of the other dishes, the pumpkin, goat’s cheese and walnut tart was noticeably smaller by comparison. It was an interesting tart though with a crumbly base almost like a sweet tart base which my mother adored. It was filled with pumpkin and rich goat’s cheese and a spoonful of the carrot jam which was slightly sweet grated carrots and mustard seeds. The walnuts were hidden under the salad which we didn’t quite discover until the tart was finished and we wondered where the walnuts were and it might have been better to put the walnuts on the tart as they would have provided a nice, toasty crunch.

burnt orange, mosman

burnt orange, mosman

Bilpin apple crumble served with vanilla bean ice cream $10

We had saved room for dessert of course! Blythe has had her eye on the salty peanut slice and reasons that a slice is “like half a dessert so we could have two slices and that could count as one person’s dessert”! We start with the Bilpin apple crumble which is strong in clove rather than cinnamon and is served with little plums or dates and apple pieces and a butter crumble top.

burnt orange, mosman

Basil pannacotta with vanilla roasted peaches and almond crisp $12

Mr NQN and I first tried basil panna cotta a while back and I always liked the flavour of a creamy panna cotta with basil. This one has an appealing wobble and a true basil flavour to it. The vanilla roasted peach is an ideal sweetness and the almond biscotti is divine.

burnt orange, mosman

Salty Peanut Caramel Slice $4

The salty peanut caramel slice is just that. A thick, slightly chewy slice with roasted, caramelised peanuts with a light saltiness to it. I find myself wondering how to make this as I would like to reproduce it at home.

burnt orange, mosman

Mars Bar Slice $4

I’m less besotted by the Mars Bar slice which has a thick layer of super sweet milk chocolate on top and very uncrunchy almost soggy rice bubbles on the bottom. We enquire with the waiter if this is indeed how it should taste and he brings a fresh one from the fridge which is markedly better although not as nice as the salty peanut caramel slice.

burnt orange, mosman

Our two hours almost up with the parking Mr NQN and my father go off to take care of the car while I do a bit of shopping including some gorgeous vintage Christmas cards and some invitation sets.

burnt orange, mosman

Downstairs there is the newly minted kiosk which sells Muffins, toasites, Daylesford and Hepburn flavoured sparkling mineral waters and Serendipity ice creams as well as picnic fare such as sandwich or salad picnic boxes ($40 for 2) or platters for $20.

So tell me Dear Reader, are you often the ones that is asked to choose where to dine?

Burnt Orange

1108/1109 Middle Head Road, Mosman NSW
Tel: +61 (02) 9969 1020
Burnt Orange at The Club House is located at the end of Middle Head Road opposite HMAS Penguin,
with a sign-posted car park before the building.

burnt orange, mosman

Sails On Lavender Bay, McMahons Point

sails, lavender bay

Sometimes I find that when a restaurant in Sydney has a view, the food doesn’t often match up to it and that the view is considered sufficient candy for the eyes whereas the mouth is left lacking. With so many restaurants with a view in Sydney, I find this to be the case in some. But if a restaurant can nail the food and the view, it can’t help but be successful.

sails, lavender bay

Head Chef Nathan Darling

sails, lavender bay

Winemaker David Bicknell

Tonight Mr NQN and I are crossing the bridge to visit Sails in McMahons Point which sits right opposite Luna Park with the Harbour Bridge on the right. Tonight is one of four wine dinners that they hold a year where they pair up a four course menu with matching wines and tonight is Oakridge Wines from the Yarra Valley in Victoria. The head chef Natahn Darling comes out and explains the food to us and then the Wine Maker David Bicknell explains the wine matching to us. In two courses we actually have two wines which is very generous. the cost is $120 per person.

sails, lavender bay

Amuse Bouche

We start off with an amuse bouche, a mushroom arancini ball which is hot, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside. Delicious. I hunt around for some more to no avail.

sails, lavender bay

Queensland Tiger prawn, king crab and tomato jelly, chilled lettuce soup paired with an Oakridge Fume Blanc

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District Dining, Surry Hills

district dining surry hills

I’ve often heard guys say that they like girls that eat (or perhaps they’re being polite because I happen to be eating with undisguised gustatory pleasure and it’s nicer than saying “Sheesh you can eat!”). I’m of the same thinking, I like girls and guys that like to eat. If someone wants to pick at one tiny plate and be done with it, I’m afraid that I’m not your ideal dining companion. Tonight, I am dining with Laura, an unabashed sampler, her colleague Teagan and Laura’s lovely friend Maddie who is a long time NQN reader of 2 and a half years (who is so sweet that she bought me a gorgeous present!). Poor Teagan was tasked with the impossible job of being “mum” i.e. putting the brakes on it if we happened to order “everything on the menu-twice!”. A thankless task at best…

district dining surry hills

The entranceway is part subway map part Mondrian painting and the district that it refers to is the most immediate Surry Hills district. The signage reminds me of an underground. The double sided paper menu shows the entrees and mains  on one side and the desserts and tea and coffee on the other. The chef is Warren Turnbull of Assiette.

district dining surry hills

district dining surry hills

Bread and olives

Smoked eel pate, cucumber, green onion flatbread $16

The plates are smallish in size and I’m quite glad that I haven’t brought Mr NQN here as he is a voracious eater and four plates would about do him. The first to come out is the adorably presented smoked eel pate which is smooth and rich with smokey eel fillet and it is presented in a little tin. It is paired with a pickled sweet cucumber which is a nice way of cutting through the eel and a soft green onion flatbread similar to a less fluffy naan.

district dining surry hills

Seared scallops, King Crab Sweetcorn congee $20

The seared scallops are lovely and seared on the outside and soft on the inside and sit on a shallow bed of sweetcorn congee. The congee has little pieces of prawns and crab scattered throughout it and it is a runnier type of congee with a flavoured broth rather than those rib sticking thick congees.

district dining surry hills

Heirloom tomato, crispy Mojama, fennel sorbet $16

The heirloom tomato salad featured crisped up Mojama which at first looks like prosciutto but is in fact salted cured tuna. The fennel sorbet had us divided. Laura liked the aniseed flavour whereas Maddie and I felt that it was too aniseedy for our taste. I normally like fennel as it has such a light aniseed taste but this sorbet is sweet and tastes like it has aniseed added to it.

district dining surry hills

Marinated tuna, wasabi panna cotta, soy bean, ginger marmalade $18

More a nod to Japan, the tuna was wonderfully fresh and served in cubes with a wasabi panna cotta which had a slight kick to it as well as shelled fresh soy beans and a pickled ginger marmalade.

Crispy quail eggs, white anchovies, tarragon mayonnaise $14

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The Chatswood Eat Street Progressive Degustation: Bavarian Bier Cafe, Mamak, Arigato, Izakaya and Rocket

mamak, chatswood

Once upon a time, an email went around to my three partners in crime: Mr NQN, Queen Viv and Miss America. I asked them if they would like to come along with me on a little progressive degustation of Chatswood’s new Eat Street. Formerly the railway station, they’ve turned it into a small collection of restaurants including the Bavarian Bier Cafe, Mamak, Arigato Izakaya and Rocket. And would my darling friends like to turn their stomachs over to me in the name of a progressive degustation? The answer was an instant yes. Ahh I do love my friends…

Bavarian Bier Cafe

chatswood eat street

“Banana beer…it’s so wrong but yet it’s not bad” Queen Viv says taking a sip of my Ladies Beer. It’s a ferociously hot evening and the end to a busy working week. So what’s a gal to do at the Bavarian Bier Cafe but to order a beer?

chatswood eat street

Ladies banana beer on left

I’m curious when we see Ladies Beer on the menu so I ask the waiter and they explain that these beers are flavoured with fruit syrups (in cherry, peach, banana, lychee and passionfruit) and have no bitterness to them thus making them a ladies beer (cue Emily Howard). In fact the beers on the menu have a bitterness rating to them. I take a sip of my banana beer and it is indeed not bitter at all and has a banana flavour to it. Most interesting and a little strange but not offensive at all.

chatswood eat street

Diesel beer-how manly!

Mr NQN’s starts the weekend off with a Diesel-a dark lager mixed with Coca Cola just for the curiosity value and they explain to us that this is the “hangover beer”. Hair of the dog I suppose…

chatswood eat street

Flammebrot with speck $16.50

Food time! We start with a flammebrot which is a pizza style of item with a choice of three toppings-we choose the speck. The bread part is a cross between a pizza and a pane croccante crispbread so that it is crisp at the edges but softer towards the centre. It’s spread with a cream cheese and is topped with onions and speck. It’s not bad-we’d imagine that this would be a good tummy filler to go along with the beer.

chatswood eat street

Munich Brewer’s platter for two $74

We also nibble on a Munich Brewer’s platter for two-we actually intended it to be some small nibblies but then the plate comes out and takes us by surprise. It is enormous and comes with two large slices of crispy crackling pork belly (oh so delicious, but you need the steak knives for these babies), chargrilled kassler, six sausages, two pieces of fabulous schnitzel, sauerkraut, sweet red cabbage, cinnamon apples and sebago mash.

chatswood eat street

The sausages are a Nurmberg sausage, a cheese kransky filled with NZ vintage cheese, a thüringer, a leberkase, a beef with marjoram, a bratwrust and a frankfurter and they’re all delicious but my heart is with the schnitzel and the pork belly with the sweet red cabbage and cinnamon apples. We can’t finish it, it is so large and this is our first place to dine.

chatswood eat street

Stop! Schnapps time! Like Hammertime but better

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