Category Archives: Special Events

Sex, Earth & Old Socks: The Search for the Elusive Black Truffle!

truffle hunt chateau yering

Sex. Earth. Dirty laundry. Old socks. A male swine’s sexual scent.

These are all words or phrases that have been used to describe truffles (tuber melanosporum). Truffles, and I mean the mushroomy type and not the chocolate type (also worth pursuing) are a relatively new addition to the Australian scene especially when compared with the history of truffles in Europe. Revered by many for their mysterious and intoxicating aroma they are a prize that people coo and hush over. Because of their exclusivity and rarity they’ve been imitated with profusion and their scarcity means that they’re even more highly prized.

At the top are Perigord truffles, the Winter black truffle commanding prices as high as almost $2,000 AUD a kilo here in Australia or even $4,000NZD in New Zealand. In France they’re delivered in baskets woven from chestnut leaves to allow air to flow freely. There are all sorts of tales of truffle intrigue including Summer truffles (considered a lesser truffle to the Winter truffle) being sold and inferior truffles being stored with superior ones to absorb the superior truffle’s aroma.

Having only eaten them I was curious to see how they are grown and found. Are they like little black gold nuggets? And do they bring pigs out to sniff out these little morsels of flavour? When I was asking if I would like to come along on a truffle hunt the answer was immediate. Absolutely! To be part of a truffle hunt is a top 10 bucket list item for me. And you’re coming along with me today Dear Reader!

truffle hunt chateau yering

We’ve arrived at Chateau Yering in Victoria’s Yarra Valley just an hour’s drive from Melbourne. The drive is easy and we arrive with time to spare for the 1:30pm truffle hunt. There are 22 other people that are joining Chateau Yering chef Matthew Macartney for their second annual truffle hunt at the Tibooburra winery estate, also a truffière. Most of us are first timers and have never been to a truffle hunt before and that lends a certain excitement and mystery to the whole proceedings.

truffle hunt chateau yering

The truffle dogs: Ziva (on left) and Spice (on right)

We board a bus and take the half hour drive to Tibooburra Estate where Greg and his family have been growing truffles since 2005. Greg and his daughters greet us along with Sue and Darren from the Australian Shepherd dog club who have brought along the truffle dogs. Nowadays dogs are used instead of pigs as they are easier to handle and don’t eat the truffle once they find it whereas pigs have to be pulled off the truffle once they discover it as they love to eat them. They’ve had a preliminary look with the dogs and tells us today that we might be able to find a couple of truffles today. Truffle hunting is never a certainty but the two Australian shepherd dogs Spice and her apprentice Ziva (yes named after the NCIS character Ziva) have been down to have a look and have indicated that there are some specimens.

truffle hunt chateau yering

Training  a dog to become a truffle dog is an interesting process in itself. Pigs and other animals such as possums will naturally feed on truffles whereas dogs aren’t interested in eating them. To train a dog (and many breeds of dog can be trained to be truffle dogs) they hide a ball of cotton wool soaked in truffle oil inside the dog’s favourite toy. The dog then gets used to associating the truffle aroma with play and over time seeks out that aroma and associates it with playing and treats. And even though truffle oil is a synthetic product that often has little to do with actual truffle, the dog’s sense of smell nevertheless can learn to associate the smell of truffles in the ground with their toys.

truffle hunt chateau yering

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A Birthday Dinner For Two Under the Velvet Canopy!

velvet-canopy-dinner

Good Monday Dear Readers and Happy Mother’s Day to all of the mums for yesterday! I hope you all had a wonderful day :) I actually had my birthday yesterday on Mother’s Day which is something that happens every seven years or so. Every year for my birthday I try and stretch out the celebrations as much as possible over a weekend- I mean the more celebrations, the more food and cake you know what I’m thinking right? ;)

This year Mr NQN was given what would be an almost impossible task-to arrange a romantic birthday celebration for just the two of us. My husband is a wonderful being. Sweet, handsome, clever and understanding he is but romantic perhaps he is not.  So thankfully he was offered some help from the Quintessentially team, a high end concierge service and private member’s club that can help any lost soul with surprising a special someone with tickets to a film premiere or dinner at Louis Vuitton or something left of centre but absolutely unique. I felt confident that he, and in turn I, were in safe hands so I unlaced my hands that are usually firmly on the controls and sat back and relaxed.

Mr NQN’s birthday card to me

Mr NQN: A couple of things that I’ll probably never be described as are romantic and a good event planner. I have the best of intentions though for some reason I’ve never been particularly good at either of them… perhaps I just think that things will take care of themselves.  So I was extremely relieved when I found out that Quintessentially were going to help me out with Lorraine’s birthday this year. She’s hard to surprise (although I did manage to surprise her when I proposed to her) and even she will admit to being a bit of a control freak.

Mr NQN had let it slip that there were some choices, the first being a carnivale fairground that was set up with a “last meal” food station of my very favourite foods (kind of like having your last meal without being executed the next day!). The second choice was a dinner at one of Louis Vuitton’s private salons with the food brought in by an external caterer. Like any inquisitive wife I tried to get the final choice out of him by asking questions like “What do I have to wear?” and “Will there be much walking?”. I even tried sneaky things like “Are we bringing the flash?” to find out if we were going to a restaurant because we generally don’t use the flash in restaurants because it disturbs other diners. And when we were getting ready I asked him to pass me a Chanel bag out of the cupboard to which he gave no reaction so  knew the Louis Vuitton idea was not going to happen. He’s good at keeping secrets. “We’re going to be back home by 9pm” is all he tells me.

Mr NQN: The communication with them started by email (which was my preference as I can’t take calls during work easily) then as the day got closer Belinda from Quintessentially rang a couple of times to discuss the night and the final confirmation of details. My original idea of taking Lorraine to Breakfast at Tiffany’s unfortunately couldn’t be done but we went back and forth with some alternative ideas that would impress her. We discussed possible ideas for the night with some great suggestions and I made a decision, clarified some details and locked in a date. I was a bit nervous as I didn’t hear back from them until a few days before the event when the final details needed to be organised (important things like what her favourite macaron flavours are etc). I got the final details the day before.

Mr NQN’s birthday present to me

“They’re going to blindfold you too” Mr NQN warned me. The first thing I thought was “Are we going somewhere that I already know?” At 6pm sharp his phone rings and our driver and car have arrived. We slide into the seat of the very tinted windowed car feeling very excited indeed. Oddly, there’s no blindfold and the driver then confirms the address with us which seems like a bit of a glitch. Mr NQN keeps trying to tell the driver that has he no idea what the exact address is and that it is meant to be a surprise for me (in order to get him to stop talking about it in case he reveals the location name)  and quite comically the driver keeps asking to confirm the address. I see Mr NQN tense a little as he squeezes my hand so I whisper to him “Dont’ worry, I don’t recognise the address” although admittedly I spent the whole trip racking my brain to recall places in Camperdown that I know.

Mr NQN: Keeping the secret and chuckling at Lorraine’s attempts to work out where/what we were doing was fun. However I was a bit disappointed by the briefing of the driver. The main issue for me was that there was no blindfold where I had warned her a few times that she would be blindfolded and she loves anything exciting or mysterious. The driver kept asking me to confirm the address which was a bit odd since all I knew was that it was in the inner west somewhere. Given the location (down some VERY small dark streets) the lack of blindfold didn’t really affect the surprise though.

velvet-canopy-dinner

The car enters a dark alley and by dark it is almost pitch black. We turn into a street where there is only one door open and it’s a car dealership. “Oh” I say to myself, “am I taking a car out for a test drive?”. I look at Mr NQN and he smiles “We’re here.”

Our driver opens the car door and I alight. To my left opposite the car dealership a door has opened and a woman is standing there smiling at me. “Lorraine?” she asks. She is Mr NQN’s contact from Quintessentially. She leads me into the door where an illuminated Moulin Rouge sign greets us. She introduces me to Michael who owns this space which is full of every single prop you could imagine. And well, you know how much I love props right? ;)

velvet-canopy-dinner

velvet-canopy-dinner

Belinda tells us that Michael will be our host for the evening. Wearing a mask and a costume he introduces himself and gives us each a mask to wear and we follow him him through the dark walkway past mounted white tiger heads, giant Easter Island statues and costumes. This is as much of a surprise to Mr NQN as it is me and we arrive at a stunning room. Michael explains that this room is called “The Velvet Canopy.”

velvet-canopy-dinner

Mr NQN: I wasn’t sure what to expect when we arrived. I was really blown away after arriving and being greeted by Belinda and then a masked Michael in costume who gives us each a mask to wear we were lead through a warehouse full of props. Finally turning the corner into an amazing room with a masked bartender. They most definitely undersold it in the emails!

velvet-canopy-dinner

There are two nubiles that greets us, ceilings are draped in red satin, a vintage chandelier is suspended from the centre of the room, ornate velvet and leather Louis XV style chairs and sofas abound, glass eggs, bird cages and lit candles perch on every possible surface in this room. The entire room is a lush spectacle and one that I could spend hours playing dress up and play pretend in. Mr NQN is given an embellished Spanish matador jacket and I’m given a fur stole.

velvet-canopy-dinner

Michael introduces us to Alan the bartender who is actually a member of the Knights Templar wearing his Knights Templar medals no less. He pours us a glass of Pommery champagne each and we settle ourselves on the velvet bar stools and look around. Alan senses my fascination with everything and he advises that I try out every seat in the house as says that once I do that I’ll feel totally at home.

velvet-canopy-dinner

So like Goldilocks I try each and every seat in the house. Some are soft, some are hard and some are juuust right. I can’t take my eyes off everything in there as there is just so much to look at and touch. There is the old fashioned telephone, the elaborate headdresses and there is even an Indian feathered mohawk which are all a result of Michael collecting for the past 15 years for his events business called Pure Events.

velvet-canopy-dinner

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The 13 Desserts of Christmas Provence Lunch!

13 desserts of provence

Myriam: the pied piper of chocolate

“It’s a Provence tradition where for Christmas Eve dinner, you eat thirteen desserts” my friend Myriam said and I have to confess that I scarcely heard anything after that. You know that I love dessert – this blog is pretty much a testament to my utter love of them, and the idea of eating thirteen desserts for a Christmas lunch seemed like the best excuse to move to France. Ever.

13 desserts of provence

Pastis aperitif

Held at Tastevin bistro, a place that I had visited for my birthday last year and had a to-die-for gnocchi, dessert lovers assembled on sunny December afternoon. It wasn’t all dessert, we were to have an entree and main before our dessert extravaganza. While we’re mingling, and I chat to twitter stars @frombecca @hollingsworth @champagnejayne and @helencrozier and we sip a Pastis aperitif from the South of France. It is a deceptively aniseedy drink that looks like a lemon drink but is pure rich aniseed (too much for me I’m afraid!). Myriam tells us that  there is a saying from a French actor Fernandel that says “Pastis is like boobs, one glass is not enough but three is too many”!

13 desserts of provence

Personalised menu

The 13 desserts of Provence tradition starts as a recreation of a religious scene of the Last Supper with Jesus Christ and the twelve apostles with each course representing each attendee.  Today’s meal would feature traditional Provence cuisine with an Australian twist. Despite the timing being so close to Christmas the event was a sold out success and we took our assigned seats at the table. We’re sitting next to Myriam and her husband Jean who will present a talk about Cognac.

13 desserts of provence

Tastevin chef Martin Webster

We start off with a mixed Provençal antipasto plate to share. Chef Martin Webster comes out and explains them to us and says that the  triangular slices of country style pork terrine are made from the pork shoulder and back fat with some liver and duck liver and Armagnac. It is hand chopped in order to get the pieces of pork fat in larger pieces. There is also an absolutely divine duck liver pate which is flavoured with Grand Marnier, pork and Armagnac. He makes this by pan frying it instead of baking the liver and it has an incredibly gorgeous texture-light but buttery and easily spread. Because it isn’t baked it also doesn’t oxidise and keeps its pink cheeked exterior.

13 desserts of provence

Mixed Provençal antipasto

The last item, apart from the cornichons is the pork rillette which is gorgeously smooth. Usually rillette is pulled apart by forks and retains the texture of the meat but this is blended and smooth and easily spread still with that telltale rillette flavour. Also on the plate is a saucisson sausage which is brought in from a sausage maker Jean Marc who sells at Fox Studios markets. The house baked bread is excellent.

13 desserts of provence

Easy Rose from St Tropez

We have a little break where they pour us a glass of “Easy Rose” Rose from St Tropez. This is to go with the traditional bouillabaisse which is paired with a sauce rouille and croutons. Myriam explains that the origins of Bouillabaisse go back as far as 6000BC where it originated at the sea port of Marseilles. The best fish was sold at the markets and any leftovers or cheaper fish were made into Bouillabaisse so whilst it’s features in good restaurants now it had rather humble beginnings.

13 desserts of provence

Traditional Bouillabaisse

13 desserts of provence

Sauce rouille and croutons

The word Bouillabaisse is broken up into bouil which is “to boil” and baisse refers to the cooking method. Every time a new fish was added to the soup, it slowed down the boiling process and abaisse means to “lower” which presumably means the fish into the pot. The word for rouille means “rust” and it is a mayonnnaise based garlic and tomato mixture.  The Bouillabaisse here is lovely, a rich broth fragrant in rich prawn head stock and the fish is tender. There is also an enormous prawn and two mussels and the garlic crouton spread with the rouille provides a crunchy, creamy contrast.

13 desserts of provence

Quiz time!

There’s a  little break as Myriam gives us a little five question quiz about Provence where the winners will receive prizes. And then it’s dessert time! Actually no scratch that, it’s thirteen dessert time! I suspected that since it was a French tradition and they have some enviable self control, it wouldn’t be a dessertapalooza where we would be groaning and clutching our stomachs. I pictured civilised, dainty, chic morsels.

13 desserts of provence

The 13 desserts have landed!

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Table 4 Ten & Dining At A Bank Vault!

table 4 ten

When most people go to a bank, it’s not for anything particularly exciting. It’s usually something rather mundane such as depositing or withdrawing money and usually involves waiting in a queue for ages only to have your hard earned cash whisked away from you.

table 4 ten

So when I alight on Elizabeth Street outside the ornate marble building of the Commonwealth Bank I’m not quite sure whether I’m at the right entrance at all. Until two smiling men in suits open the doors for me and usher me downstairs. “Everyone is downstairs” they tell me and I click my heels against the marble floor and descend the steps to the area underneath the bank just outside the safety deposit boxes and the vault. A long table is set for us and there are various people standing around chatting including Firass Dirani the Underbelly actor.

table 4 ten

Robbie Robertson

Table4Ten is an annual charity event for the Prostate Cancer Foundation which has a rather clever dining idea behind it. In Sydney almost 60 of Sydney’s top restaurants including Tetsuya’s, Marque, Becasse, Buzo, Pier, Quay and Rockpool among many others donate a table for ten people in their restaurants. Each table is hosted by a person who is responsible for coordinating the $250 a ticket table and to get a seat at one of the invite only tables. Then before the event, each host is randomly assigned a restaurant. And at the end of the evening, cars take each table of ten to a mystery location for an after party where everyone can party together!

table 4 ten

GQ’s Nick Smith and Firass Dirani to his left

table 4 ten

Sean Connolly

We’re being hosted by GQ magazine and Robbie Robertson, the Table4Ten chairman whose father underwent treatment for prostate cancer. In 2008 the event raised $100,000 for the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia (PCFA). We’re lucky enough to be assigned a very rare place to dine-the Commonwealth Bank Vault which is rarely opened for special events.  I am sitting next to chef Sean Connolly and the Restaurant Associates (which sounds like a band to me) who are creating the food for tonight. On my other side is Selina from Home Ideas Magazine who is a regular reader of Not Quite Nigella along with her office mates! The wines are by Glandore Estate wines who has supplied the wines for the last three Table4Ten events.

table 4 ten

Appletini

table 4 ten

King crab sandwiches

We’re served delicious Appletinis and canapes on our arrival. The King Crab sandwiches are a favourite of mine as I love a lovely, soft pillowy crab sandwich as it has microherbs sprinkled on top giving it a zingy flavour.

table 4 ten

Goat’s cheese croquette with smoked paprika aioli

The goat’s cheese croquette is rich with the goat’s cheese and has a slightly mustardy flavour to it. The outside is crunchy and golden and the inside is soft and velvety.

table 4 ten

Jamon Serrano wrapped watermelon and rockmelon

I get a stick of jamon serrano wrapped in a juicy cube of rockmelon which is refreshingly quenching, salty and rich at the same time.

table 4 ten

Johnny Love Bite Gazpacho soup with poached lobster and prawns

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The World’s Best Chef Rene Redzepi, The Opera House, Sydney

I was coughing, spluttering and the warm Spring weather had turned colder. I was dying to go to the Opera House to hear Rene Redzepi speak and I was clutching my invitation with a frail hand and whilst the mind was willing, the flesh was weak. I was chatting to my friend Liss from Frills in the Hills lamenting my illness and on the spur of the moment, I asked her if she would like to go in my place. Thankfully she’s a dear and she kindly offered to guest post in my place. Without further ado, here is the fabulous Liss’s guest post on Noma Chef Rene Redzepi at the Opera House. I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I did :)

As I head up the Opera House concourse I suddenly catch myself. What am I doing here? Do I belong here? I approach the doors, Helen Greenwood from the SMH to my right, I walk up the stairs. As I approach the large crowd assembled it is pulsating with a buzz and you can feel the excitement.

I decide to go to the bathroom. Kylie Kwong, swings past me on her way out, this feels surreal – as I walk out again I glimpse Mark Best from Marque, I internally gasp. Wasn’t I just in Ikea this afternoon? I looked down at my hand, yes, I still had the ink from the Small-land drop off on my hand. This is a little bit surreal. Do I belong here? I have Wiggles band-aids in my purse!

What’s equally surreal is who I’m about to listen to. I’m here to listen to Rene Redzepi -His restaurant Noma has been named best restaurant in the world by the San Pellegrino. I find my seat at the glorious Opera House – designed by another famous Dane, Jørn Utzon. Set in Copenhagen, the Netherlands, Noma seats only 40 and receives reservation requests of over 1,000 a week. You can imagine what the waiting list is like.

Photo from Top 10 list

‘Has Princess Mary dined at Noma?’  Strangely has been the most popular question posed to Rene since his arrival in Australia.  I believe she may even be on that waiting list!

Rene appears. He appears like he just stepped out of Ralph Lauren advertisement (note from NQN: ladies, he married-sorry! :P ). Swept hair across his face, blue blazer, untucked dress shirt, straight pants and white, white, white sneakers. He seems down to earth and immediately I am less overwhelmed and more in awe.

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