The Austrian Club, Frenchs Forest

I had told a friend of mine, M, about Una’s at Double Bay and how their Schnitzels came with sauce. “PFfffttt!!” she said indignantly “Schnitzel should never come with sauce!!”. As a proud Austrian, she is highly opinionated on the foods from her native land. And I in turn, vowed never to serve her Austrian food, should I get in trouble for fiddling with it.

We walk into The Austrian Club this cold, Wintry night, our stomachs happily anticipating a large meal full of meat and potatoes and various other ingredients that make up Austrian cuisine. The Austrian Club is situated in Frenchs Forest, close to other National clubs such as the Czech club and the Danish Club. Of course we are going here with M and her monkey-toting son I. After 15 years in Australia, this is her first time to the club. On the outside she says that it is much like a typical Austrian building, white with brown trim and a fire bell at the top. And the sign outside proudly sports Gösser beer, the popular Austrian Beer. So far so good.

Inside, it looks quaint and is comfortable like a hall with checked tablecloth covered tables and we are reassured by M, that it looks just like back home. She point out the various details, from the curtains to the wall plaques and the signs that would separate foreigners from natives.

Stammtisch-VIPs only!

For example there is the “Stammtisch” sign above a table which reserves that tables for the elders or regulars. An Austrian would never sit at that table unless they were one and each club would have one of these tables put aside for their special patrons. The fixtures above the lights she says are based on the equipment that they use on the oxen that plough the fields in Austria.

Hoof hook

Food orders are taken at the table by the wait staff and drinks are ordered a the nearby bar. And it’s cash only for both (which threw us a little and had us hurriedly counting cash in wallets and nominating people to wash dishes).

Almdudler

We order with the advice from M as to what is typically Austrian and then she comes back from the bar with cans of Almdudler, a popular Austrian soft drink flavoured lightly with herbs (much like a Chi drink). The red can features an Alpine looking couple and it’s said to be their National drink, second only to Coca Cola in sales, although it doesn’t contain caffeine and the taste is light and refreshing.

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Chicken Soup with potato stuffed potato bread for the occassional Shut-In

OK I’m not being serious, this is not only just for Shut Ins although sometimes during the cold of Winter, I definitely feel as though I qualify. I am not sure why there is such a stigma to hibernation, the bears do it and you hardly hear cries of “anti social bears” and mutterings that there’s something wrong with them. If you feel like the world is just too cold or cruel a place and that stepping out the door would be as appealing as sawing your own arm off, these recipes are for you. And I don’t want to hear from people who say that they’ve never felt like that and that they love socialising and interacting. Don’t get me wrong I do too. But there are just some days that you just want to barricade yourself indoors. An example of why everyone at some stage has felt this way is the great Australian tradition of a sickie. Sometimes you just cannot be bothered and slobbing around the house is the best you can do.

I like to celebrate my shut-in days by making the most of them. I watch the DVDs I’ve never gotten around to, read or at least start the books I’ve got gathering dust by the side of my bed and read trashy magazines *ahem* … I mean keep up with Current Affairs.

This Tessa Kiros recipe for chicken soup is from her book Apples for Jam, a cookbook/storybook with some gorgeous pictures and home recipes with a comforting edge to them. It interested me as it looked great in the photos. Yes, I am that superficial. I also liked the idea of a thick chicken soup - there’s nothing wrong with a thin broth but I like more sustaining soups, particularly if they are the main and only course at dinner.

As for the Potato Bread, I admit I fiddled with Nigella’s recipe. I actually got the idea from a friend Maria from Foodie Wanderings in which she told me about a bakery that made bread rolls with a whole boiled potato and mayonnaise inside. So I thought what bread recipe would better apply to this than Nigella’s potato bread. Call it potato on potato. And if you’re walking around in your Juicy trackpants, thermals and wooly socks, what better way to celebrate not having to wear your jeans than with an unashamed carb fest.

The soup was lovely on it’s own but like all great partnerships, it becomes so much more moreish when partnered with the spongy yet crunchy crusted bread. And if you think that it’s all too much of a production making the bread along with the soup, the smell of it baking in the oven should convince you otherwise. I’m pretty sure you could fit this in amongst your busy at home schedule. I managed to between appointments with Oprah and Entertainment Tonight.

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Le Mesturet, Paris

Le Mesturet

After an afternoon at the Louvre, the only possible thing we are in any shape to do is walk a little down the road from the hotel for dinner. You see, our eyes were bigger than our brains so we thought that we could see everything that we wanted to although we did see the Mona Lisa (along with it seems half of Paris), Vermeer’s “The Lacemaker”, Michaelangelo’s sculptures and Napoleon III’s apartment (crazy gorgeous, especially the dining room). So we stumbled down the road from our hotel and that’s where we were welcomed warmly at Le Mesturet, a bistro serving traditional French food. It seems they’re used to overseas visitors, they ask us where we’re from and then smiling, hand us English menus. I get the feeling that they have a stash of other menus in a variety of languages.

Le Mesturet Menu

Menu

For dinner, they have a menu formule: 2 courses for €19.50 or 3 courses for €25.50 and one is allowed to choose any of the dishes from the menu. We ask what is good and they point out what they’re known for. It’s hard to choose but we finally settle on the our selections, one that has our host worried, the Calves’ head. “Have you tried this before?” he asks hesitatingly. “No but we want to” we answer firmly. He laughs and says “Well I love this, it’s very good. It’s a Parisian only dish. Most chefs in Paris come from from all over but this one is originally from Paris itself. Tell me if you don’t like it though”. We promise to.

Le Mesturet amuse bouche

Amuse Bouche-pork and egg omelette

We pop in some of the complimentary appetisers, a pork and egg omelette. It’s tasty, and we’re glad that we tried this as other tables received olives. The crunchy French bread arrives just before our entrees do.

Le Mesturet eggplant

House specialty: grilled eggplant, tomato and goat’s cheese from Artisanal cheesemaker Lethielleux

The eggplant salad is enormous for a starter and our eyes widen when it approaches the table. The eggplant is soft and the tomato and goat’s cheese good although this is a fairly safe dish and similar to one that we’ve had at home often.

Le Mesturet rabbit terrine

Slowly simmered rabbit terrine

The rabbit terrine is lovely, full of rabbit meat and delicious with the toasted baguette. It doesn’t have that strong rabbit smell which I dislike and I am glad that we ordered this.

Le Mesturet duck

Slow cooked duck from the Jeansarthe farm, shredded, topped with a layer of puréed potato

The shredded duck “pie” topped with mashed potato is lovely and heady with a judicious amount of red wine added to it. We often find that red wine is often abused and overused in cooking but this has just the right amount added to it.

Le Mesturet calves head

Tête de veau (calves’ head)

And of course the dish that you’ve been wanting to know about, the Tête de veau is soft and unctuous, simmered until fall apart soft. The meat and soft jelly like ring of fat is mild tasting and when the cornichon remoulade added, gives it that added extra. It’s said to be a favourite dish of Jacques Chirac and takes about 5 hours to cook and must be fully cooked (never undercooked) and allowed to cool completely once it has finished cooking, otherwise it will explode.

We desperately wanted to order the Baked Apricot and lavender dessert with violet ice cream but they’re out of Violet ice cream which was the component that really intrigued me. No matter anyway, we’re both stuffed from the delicious meal and hearty serves. We’re given a friendly farewell, if only we lived locally (we don’t!) this would be our local restaurant.

Le Mesturet Paris

Le Mesturet

77 Rue de Richileu, 2nd arrondisement Paris
Open: Monday - Saturday 12pm-3pm, 7-10.30pm

Amy Sedaris - Cinnamon Sour Cream cake

Amy, Amy why hast thou forsaken me? This caketh didn’t turneth outeth!

Cinnamon sour cream cake

I approached this recipe with some trepidation. The first line states ” You will be putting the cake into a cold oven and then setting the temperature to 180c/350F/Gas 4 and baking for 55 minutes” which goes against most cake baking handbooks and experience where the first third or half of the time in the oven are crucial. I thought that perhaps Amy was being a bit too nutty and was playing a joke but I played along with it and placed it in the cold oven and turned it up. The cake did indeed sink in the middle in a very bad way.

Not only that, any Amy can’t fully be blamed for this, the top of the cake did not come out of the tin. The cake itself is just too soft and airy to be able to be baked in a fluted or fancy tin. I did butter and flour the tin so it should have come out just fine-should have! Another problem was that the chopped nuts sank to the bottom and even though I had filled the cake with half of the mix, the sinking meant that there was only one quarter of the cake at the top that stuck as the nut mixture sank to the bottom (ie the top).

Cinnamon Sour Cream cake - Amy Sedaris

I tried to tart it up with some cinnamon sticks and flaked almonds to distract you. So let’s pretend it was supposed to look completely rustic. Oh and if you’d like to see how the resultant cake is supposed to look like when baked in the special tin, you can see one that I made here.

But this doesn’t mean that the recipe isn’t worth making. The actual cake taste is airy and light (a result of the sour cream and baking soda) and incredibly moist. You might want to avoid the same fate as that of my cake with these tips:

1. Don’t use a fancy pants pan like I did, just a springform or loaf tin lined with baking paper. You need the paper.

2. Toss the nuts lightly in flour to prevent them sinking.

3. Preheat the oven to 180c and bake like a normal cake to avoid the middle sinking.

4. Don’t make this for a special occasion as it may cause you anxiety.

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Finland!

Berry Porridge

Typical Finnish breakfast-oatmeal with blueberry soup

Going to a new country means that I do try and respect local customs and not embarrass myself (or my half Finnish husband). I have something of a head start as we are close to his Finnish mother and aunt and her family so we have an idea of what the Finnish people are like. I thought that I should brush up on dining etiquette so I found a website that gave me the lowdown on Finns, those curious not-Scandinavian-but-rather-Nordic people that are shy at first but genuine and warm on subsequent meetings. My mother in law theorises that Finns are not used to a lot of social contact and years ago especially in Winter and houses being apart you’d not often come into contact with another person.

Finnish Dining Etiquette

If you are invited to a Finn’s home:

  • Arrive on time. Finns are punctual in both business and social situations (this does not apply to my mother in law who is frequently late ;) )
  • Remove your outdoor shoes before entering the house.
  • Contact the hostess ahead of time to see if she would like you to bring a dish.
  • Offer to help the hostess with the preparation or clearing up after a meal is served.
  • If you are invited for coffee and cake, there may be as many as 7 cakes to sample (woohoo!! Caaaaaaake!!)
  • Do not discuss business (fine, I’d rather discuss food).
  • Thank the hosts for the hospitality before saying good-bye to the other guests (I should think this is probably logical to everyone but those raised by wolves).

Table Manners

  • Wait to be told where to sit (good to know, I tend to view a table place like real estate and try to get the best spot)
  • Table manners are Continental - hold the fork in the left hand and the knife in the right while eating.
  • Always keep your hands visible when eating. Keep your wrists resting on the edge of the table (Interesting! What else would one be doing with their hands? I shudder to think why this rule is in place…)
  • Do not begin eating until the hostess invites you to start (must remind hungry husband about this)
  • Bread and shrimp are the only foods eaten by hand. Even fruit is eaten with utensils (very Seinfeld Snickers bar episode, I like it)
  • Accept second helpings (not a problem here)
  • When passing salt and pepper shakers, put them on the table within the person’s reach. Do not give them directly (interesting! seems very Japanese)
  • Men should keep their jacket on at meals unless the host removes his (that is, if my husband is wearing a jacket!)
  • Finish everything on your plate. Finns do not appreciate waste (why a hungry husband always comes in handy).
  • When you have finished eating, place your knife and fork across your plate with the prongs facing down and the handles facing to the right (different to what we do)

http://www.kwintessential.co.uk/resources/global-etiquette/finland-country-profile.html

I follow with some examples of Finnish food, of course

Finnish food

Kareljan Rice pie

Kareljan rice pie - delicious when heated

Seurasaari chili ice cream

Pineapple chili ice cream-absolutely gorgeous!

Megapussi

Megapussi just means mega large bag! Chips €2.69

Leipajuusto

Leippajusstoa and pikelets (Porkkanaohukainen) €2.49 and €1.35. Leippajusstoa is a squeaky cheese, like a less salty halloumi and is absolutely delicious.

Vesanto Daim ice cream

Daim bar ice cream-Daim bar chocolate outer (a bit thin, a little more Daim would be better. Vanilla ice cream underneath.

Vesanto blueberry icecream

Blueberry ice cream

Cloudberry icecream

Cloudberry ice cream

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Juuri Sapas Helsinki, Finland

Juuri Sapas Helsinki

Juuri Sapas is a not quite Michelin starred newbie on the Helsinki scene. Popular and recommended by some of my husband’s gourmand cousins, we were eager to try it. Sapas is like tapas, albeit slightly smaller, small plates of food.

We’re meeting my husband’s cousins whom he hasn’t seen in about 20 years. They’re Helsinki natives and love fine dining and a good drop of wine so we are eager to take advantage of their knowledge of the city. The menu is contemporary Finnish cuisine with a lot of local ingredients and native foods which makes it rather exciting. All 4 mains are savoury and sweet and have meat combined with a fruit in some way. There are some little issues, a couple of people at the table have to ask for new plates as they were given dirty ones, my husband having to ask for a new plate twice.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Menu

The Sapas are €3.50 each and we choose the Lingonberry marinated salmon on maltbread, tarragon garlic oil; raspberry marinated arctic char with radish sauce; smoked small perche from Pielinen with egg sauce; crayfish cottage cheese filled cabbage leaves with melted dill butter; fresh sausages a la Juuri with vodka mustard; terrine of reindeer liver with jelly made of berries; smoked lamb with gooseberry jam.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki breads

Array of 3 breads

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Carrot butter

Carrot butter

We’re given a large basket of 3 different breads with a carrot butter. The carrot butter is interesting, distinctly carroty in taste but with the creaminess of butter.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Lingonberry salmon

Lingonberry marinated salmon on maltbread, tarragon garlic oil €3.50

The salmon is gorgeous, lightly sweetened with the lingonberries and perched on top of the maltbread which soaks up the tarragon and garlic oil nicely. It’s much better than regular marinated salmon.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Arctic Char

Raspberry marinated arctic char with radish sauce €3.50

The slender slice of arctic char resembles salmon in texture but is a whitefish. I’m not usually a fan of radishes but the sauce is creamy enough but still retains the radish flavour.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki pielinen fish

Smoked small perche from Pielinen with egg sauce €3.50

The small smoked fish are intensely flavoured whilst the egg sauce is an interesting accompaniment. The fish aren’t too dry and the sauce is delicious.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Crayfish cabbage

Crayfish cottage cheese filled cabbage leaves with melted dill butter €3.50

The stuffed cabbage leaves resembles a small spring roll but the taste is distinctly different. The sauce is gloriously delicious, with a honeyed tone to it. It’s one of my favourite dishes as well as my husband’s although anything with crayfish is a winner with me.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki sausages

Fresh sausages a la Juuri with vodka mustard €3.50

The tiny sausages aren’t particularly distintive and the mustard isn’t particularly vodka-ey. It’s a bit of a disappointment given there are so many other delicious dishes.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Reindeer liver

Terrine of reindeer liver with jelly made of berries €3.50

The pate like reindeer liver terrine is delicious and unusual. Distinctly different from other liver terrines or pates it is enhanced by the berry jelly. If only we had some little toast points to eat it with.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Smoked lamb

Smoked lamb with gooseberry jam €3.50

The smoked lamb is very smokey in aroma and I’m not sure about the gooseberry jam with it. Although the lamb is delicious when I dip it in the other sauces.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki salsify

Grilled salsify with rosehip jam €3.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Quenelle

Pike quenelle in wild herb bouillion €3.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki beetroot

Beetroot and nut stew with small mushrooms €3.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki cheese

Eggcheese spiced with oregano baked on top of straws €3.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Asparagus

Willowherb asparagus €3.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki fish

Roasted swede with cauliflower puree €3.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki menu

Mains menu

The mains we choose are the Wild Boar Ribs with apple butter and vegetables cooked in beef stock, Organic Lamb Tenderloin with dark orange bolete sauce and fried organic barley porridge and Artic Char (a fish native to Finland) braised in whitecurrant wine, jeruselum artichoke puree, beetroot sauce and parsnip chips.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Wild Boar ribs

Wild Boar Ribs with apple butter and vegetables cooked in beef stock 22.50

My Wild boar ribs with apple puree, dutch carrots and other vegetables are absolutely divine, sticky sweet and soft they completely conquer regular pork ribs or any other ribs I’ve had. I almost sob that I know that I can’t get them in Australia and I begrudgingly give some to my sister and husband, knowing that they will love them too.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Lamb

Organic Lamb Tenderloin with dark orange bolete sauce and fried organic barley porridge €25.50

The Lamb is soft and tenderly pink inside and the accompaniment of fried porridge is delicious. It’s similar to fried polenta but softer and stickier. Like Chinese radish cake or something similar in texture although not in taste. The dark orange bolete sauce is a midly sweet accompanying sauce.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Finland Arctic Char beetroot

Artic Char braised in whitecurrant wine, jeruselum artichoke puree, beetroot sauce and parsnip chips €22.50

The fantastic looking Arctic Char with a streak of fuchsia beetroot puree as mentioned before tastes like salmon whilst being a whitefish.The artichoke puree and beetroot sauce not only providing visual contrast  to the fish but also flavour that never overpowers the fish.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Fish

Fried perch fillets with Finnish original onion and tomato salad, rhubarb sauce and new potatoes €22.50

Juuri Sapas Helsinki dessert menu

Dessert menu

Juuri Sapas Helsinki seabuckthorne mousse

Chocolate cake de capo with seabuckthorne mousse €7

Although we are full we can’t pass up on the desserts-there’s one that has caught my eye-the chocolate cake de capo with seabuckthorn mousse. My husband’s cousins tell us the seabuckthorne is actually used in a medicinal sense-whenever someone is feeling ill or coming down with something, they take some seabuckthorne juice. So not only is it tasty but good for you. The chocolate cake resembles a brownie and the mousse a sweet slightly tangy tamarillo mousse. It’s finished with a streak of thick butterscotch sauce.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki cheese plate

Selection of Finnish cheeses and crowberry jelly €7.50

My sister orders the cheese plate and when it arrives, with 4 small cubes of cheese with crowberry jelly €7.50. I don’t have the heart to ask her to share any of her tiny 4 cubes with me and she reports back that 1 was “ok” but the rest were unmemorable. She actually wanted to spit out one of the hard cheeses. Not to mention the tiny portions. The crowberry jelly is more like a syrup than a jelly and honeyed in taste although the consistency doesn’t lend itself to all of the cheeses.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Rhubarb ice cream

Seasonal sorbet Rhubarb €5

We sample some of the Rhubarb sorbet, intriguingly it’s a forest green shade. it tastes like a fruit and vegetable juice, almost like parsley or another herb has been added to the rhubarb.

Juuri Sapas Helsinki Rosehip ice cream

Rosehip and white chocolate ice cream with marinated strawberries €7

Mecca bar Helsinki Finland fire stones

Later, we head off to Mecca bar, an ultra chic and a bit posey bar populated by Helsinki’s beautiful people. We’re persuaded to try the Sweet Salty licorice drink. It’s a glisteningly black tar shot glass and even the smell at a short distance is heady with aniseed. I take a sip, after all I’m not a big licorice fan and indeed it is just like the salty sweet licorice lollies. My husband adores this and wants to buy a bottle.

Mecca bar Helsinki Finland Licorice drink

We leave whilst the night is still young, after all in the Midnnight Sun season, night never falls.

Juuri Sapas

Korkeavuorenkatu 27
00130 Helsinki
Tel. +358 9 635732
www.juuri.fi
Reservation: ravintola@juuri.fi
Seats: 34+6
Open: Mon-Fri 11–24, Sat 12–24, Sun 14–20

Helsinki Kauppatori Market Square & Hall, Finland

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

I cannot tell you how disconcerting it is falling asleep at 4am while the sun is shining. It affords me little sleep and I dream some very bizarre dreams that night although it may have been the results of a grease overload via Jaskan Grilli’s Kannibal hot dog.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Chili salt

It’s a gorgeous sunny day today so we take full advantage of it and go to the city centre and walk around the outdoor markets and the adjacent Market Hall, packed full to the brim with all sorts of Finnish delicacies. As we are hungry we walk to the Market Hall to find something to eat, on a recommendation of my husband’s uncle who recalls salivating as soon as he entered the market hall. There is an array of items not to be found in Australia that fascinates me.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Tins of bear meat-priced at €23 for a smallish tin

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Huge cooked squid

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Smoked fish

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Lihapiirakka

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Lihapiirakka €4.50

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Inside Lihapiirakka

We first choose a Finnish food called a Lihapiirakka filled with beef and cheese and rice €4.50. There are plain rolls for €2. The outer is crispy fried, like a donut and the filling inside is plentiful with the sauce soaked rice, melted cheese and beef slices. My husband loves this although the meat is a touch greasy for me.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Open face sandwiches

The open sandwiches we choose are the crayfish and mayo €3 and the salmon €3 ( as recommended by the girl behind the counter). We’re not usually fans of rye bread but on these open sandwiches, the dryness is needed to soak up the extra sauce and topping so that it doesn’t fall into a heap and become a wet sponge.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square crayfish sandwich

Crayfish and mayo open faced sandwich €3

The crayfish and mayo one is gorgeous, with a slightly sweet mayo giving the delicate crayfish a creamy and perfect complement. At €3 it is a steal. Interestingly, we see another vendor a little further down selling the same open face sandwich for €7.50.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square salmon sandwich

Salmon open faced sandwich €3

The salmon is also good, although when compared to the lovely crayfish. Ordinarily I would have been more than happy.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Sauna smoked ham

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Reindeer meat-Rudolph!

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Gravlax

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Stomachs satisfied, we walk through the rest of the market hall where we see reindeer meat in every conceivable form, smoked, jerky, vacuum packed steaks and pate as well as Bear meat and pate which at €23 for a small can, peaks my sister’s interest.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Juicy, sweet strawberries

Heading out towards the outdoor markets and are greeted with berry vendors at every turn offering samples of strawberries and cherries. We are a little early for berry season so had we come a month later, there would have been more varieties of berry.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Lovely raspberries

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Cherries-sweet but not as luscious and sweet as the strawberries

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square\

My favourite, sweeter than sweet apricots. They tasted like those lovely plump and sweet dried Turkish apricots but they’re fresh!

The next day we sample some of the hot food on offer. All of the stands cook on large round hot plates with each selection taking up some space. It looks like the pictures I’ve seen of massive paellas being cooked in Spain. We get some Game meat balls from one stand which are superbly soft, delicious and large with 3 meatballs per serve. The garlic and herb sauce that it comes with is delicious as is the vegetable paella.

The baltic herring is, for lack of a better word, very “fishy” in taste and with some tiny bones. I’m glad we tried it although I probably wouldn’t order it again.

For something sweet we try the dreamily named “cloudberry crepe” which is filled with a sweet pipped sauce much like tamarillo although sweeter. With the whipped cream, it is a delicious ending to the market meal.

Other fabulous finds at the Market Square were

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

A mysterious looking plant! If anyone knows the name of this, please let me know.

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square


Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square Cloudberry ice cream

Cloudberry ice cream

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square birch branches

Birch tree branches-for whacking on yourself during a sauna. Apparently these are very effective!

Helsinki Finland Market Hall and Square

Kauppatori Market Hall and Square

Eastern end of the Esplanade
Helsinki, Finland

Zetor Tractor restaurant, Helsinki Finland

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland

My husband says that I can shop for almost anything, and it’s true. Even supermarket shopping holds joy and excitement for me. I could stroll the aisles of a supermarket, especially in overseas countries, picking up item after item and not get bored. So when I came upon a tractor selling restaurant I was immediately intrigued. My husband was relieved in that he knew that I wouldn’t be interested in a tractor because a) it’s a tractor and b) a tractor would exceed our baggage allowance. In the city centre, Zetor is said to be a slice of what the Finnish countryside was like a few decades ago. Indeed my husband’s Finnish born and bred uncle confirms this fact.

Zetor tractor restaurant

No hidden bottles please!

There’s a sign at the front, asking us to leave our bags, coats and any hidden bottles of alcohol behind. Hmm I get the sense that this isn’t your usual sort of place. My husband’s cousin said that it was more a “quantity over quality” place which pleased my husband to no end. Yes folks, no matter how hard I’ve tried to persuade him, he still prefers a larger meal to a quality meal.

Zetor tractor restaurant

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland

We’re shown to a booth, past enormous tractors with flames painted on them and a gigantic cow. My husband’s uncle also explains that the name Zetor actually refers to a Russian tractor that was notoriously unreliable and thought to have been a poor quality one so the name is a joke.

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland menu

Zetor’s menu-printed as a newpaper with pages in several languages

And their menu, designed in the style of a newspaper with a menu page in Finnish, English, Swedish, German and Russian certainly has a sense of humour to it with dishes such as “2. Plastic Blinnery: Now, it is finally possible to acquire a DD cup by a safe, natural method. The orally ingested filling includes a blini fried in clarified butter, served with herring caviar, salmon roe mousse and boiled egg. No danger of rejection.” as well as desserts such as “34. This Is Your Captain Speaking: Welcome to this chartered flight to Torremolinos! In order for you to be able to achieve the requisite holiday spirit, we will be serving chocolate cake and strawberries in brandy. And don’t forget to give a hearty applause when we land.”

Zetor tractor restaurant

Booths

The waitress comes to take our order and we order the Cliche Soup, ZETOR C2007I and the fawn reindeer roast (”Slip into something more comfortable”) and for dessert the “Hidden Agenda”-oven baked cheese with caramel sauce and brandy marinated arctic cloudberries.

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland

Cliche soup (large) €12.90

All three dishes arrive at once and they smell fantastic, particularly the Cliche soup which I have chosen. Described as: “It’s a deja vú all over again, said the man, and didn’t skin his bear, because on the same token, he went back to business: Smoked reindeer and cheese soup, vegetable butter and crispbread. The portion took the feet right out of his mouth. Available also without reindeer” A spoonful into it and it’s creamy and velvety and the flavour much like a cheese and bacon roll in a liquid form. The tiny smoked reindeer pieces taste just like bacon and it’s gorgeously voluptuous although you get the feeling that you are eating for Everest and that the calories in this bowl could sustain you for a trek to the summit and back. The crispbread is much like a Pringle shaped Finncrisp with some carrot puree butter on it.

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland fish

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland

Zetor C2007I €11.70 little tinned fish

I next try the “ZETOR C2007I An updated version of our best-selling product. The components are smoked Pielinen vendace in tin can and bread. Optional extras include a schnapps (4 cl), and you can also get take-away vendace components from the hat check girl. Suitable for two. This product will not be outsourced to Asia” which arrives in a tin with one of those little openers that you try and master in order to reach your food. The smoked fish are interesting and the bread very dry and crispy. We find this best when you spoon the fish on and let the oil from the fish permeate the bread somewhat-and even then it’s a n earth shattering crunch when you bite into it. The fish are much like an oily smoked fish-not bad at all.

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland  reindeer steak

Slip Into Something More Comfortable €27.80

The last savoury dish is the “Slip Into Something More Comfortable: The reindeer fawn roast slipped into a potato hash and poured cranberry red wine sauce all over itself.  Then it burned the midnight oil so that the country cheese got warm. This caused the sauerkraut to stew in its sour cream, and the mood was set for the evening. ” This dish, a little more expensive than the rest of the menu, which is mostly less than €20, but it is rewardingly good, the reindeer fawn is gloriously soft and the perfect companion to the sweet and mild sauerkraut and potatoes. The cranberry red wine sauce and country cheese also complements the reindeer and we are in unison impressed with this dish. My sister particularly loves the cheese, called Leipäjuusto, literally translated into Bread Cheese which is like a less salty version of Halloumi. Said to be made from rich milk from a cow that has recently calved it is used in both sweet and savoury dishes.

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland caramel cheese

Hidden Agenda €9.20 Caramelised cheese

Zetor tractor restaurant cloudberries

Hidden Agenda €9.20 Cloudberries marinated in brandy

Which brings us to our dessert featuring Leipäjuusto with caramel sauce and brandy soaked arctic cloudberries. It comes in a baking dish and looks like a gratin but a spoonful in and we are all nodding our heads in agreement. There is the caramel squeaky cheese on top but underneath is a milky caramel flavoured sauce. The brandy cloudberries are gorgeous alongside this creamy cheesy spoonsful and although it’s unusual, it most certainly works.

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland  cutlery pail

Pail of cutlery

We leave and of course it is bright and sunny. We see some people toting beers - they don’t come in 6 packs here, they come in 12 packs for the serious drinker. And the colloquial term for these is “Dachshund” for the shape as they resemble the sausage dog. And no, I didn’t buy a tractor!

Restaurant Zetor

Mannerheimintie 3-5, Kaivopiha, 00100 Helsinki - tel. 010 76 64450
Table reservations: S-groups sales service 020 1234 800 (mon-fri 8-18) -
Open: mon 11-24, tue 11-03, wed-sat 11-04 sun 13-23
http://www.ravintolazetor.fi/etusivu_en.html

Zetor tractor restaurant helsinki finland

Kämp Café & Bar

Kamp cafe helsinkin finland

One of the most irresistible things to do for some people in Helsinki is apparently to sun yourself outside of a cafe, Parisian style, watching the passing traffic, face upturned to the sun as if watching a giant movie screen. My husband thought that the sight of it was so hilarious that he took pictures of them. It’s where Helskinki goes to pose and posture.

Kamp cafe Helsinki Finland

Hotel Kämp is Helsinki’s premier hotel, built in 1887 by Carl Kämp and then rebuilt in 1965. It is the place for the wealthy, social elite (rooms start at €500). It is steeped in history {http://www.cosmopolis.ch/travel/helsinki/hotel_kamp_111.htm} with its rich and sumptuous surroundings, after a hard day pounding the cobblestones touristing, we enter the hotel, delighted that the serenity.

Kamp cafe helsinki finland

The menu is surprisingly reasonable given the surroundings. I am itching for some seafood so my husband and I share the Royal Seafood platter €39.80, the crayfish soup €9.80 and my sister has a burger craving so she orders the €21.

Kamp cafe helsinki finland crayfish soup

The soup arrives first and is spooned from a small silver tureen into a chic patterned rim bowl. The soup is richly and deeply flavoured, an ode to the crayfish. A definite winner.

Kamp cafe Helsinki Finland

It takes a while before the seafood platter and burger arrives, we’re not sure why as we are eating early and it’s relatively empty. We take some time to peruse our opulent surroundings, oddly there are huge shag pile rugs under the tables, we can only think what kind of cleaning nightmare they would be should a diner spill something on them or drop crumbs.

Kamp cafe Helsinki Finland bread

The bread given to us is lovely and fresh, the butter simply gorgeous as Finnish butter is uniformly.

Kamp cafe helsinki finland platter

Kamp cafe helsinki finland royal platter

Our platter and burger finally arrives, the platter piled high with prawns (smoked and unsmoked), oysters, 1/2 a small lobster (and we mean small) and mussels. We dig into the platter, the 2 precious oysters are large and creamy, the mussels sweet albeit small, the lobster doesn’t have a great deal of lobster meat so we savour what is there and the prawns are unusual-the smoked version being extremely smoked (we find that Finnish smoked items are very smokey in flavour) and the natural prawns sweet with soft shells.

Kamp cafe helsinki finland shrimp roe

What is interesting is the amount of tiny sweet roe clinging to each prawn, it’s very sweet and delicious. The 4 sauces are: Aioli, a runny thousand island, a red onion vinaigrette and a blood orange sauce. The aioli is my favourite although the red onion vinaigrette is a natural for the oysters.

Kamp cafe Helsinki Finland burger

The burger is actually not made up with a burger patty, it’s thin slices of rareish beef. Blythe finds it strange and not quite burger like enough. Also the chips are very dry and usually a chip lover, she leaves most behind.

The restaurant starts to fill, with elegantly dressed people seeking a drink or a meal outside of the brief rain shower outside. And of coursethere are still people outside watching the crowd scuttle past with umbrellas, like watching a movie.

Kämp Café & Bar

OPENING HOURS

Mon - Fri 11.30 - 24.00 a la carte menu
Sat - Sun 12.00 - 24.00 a la carte menu

BAR OPENING HOURS

Mon-Wed 10.00-01.00
Thu-Fri 10.00-02.00
Sat 11.00-02.00
Sun 11.00-01.00

HOTEL KÄMP
Kämp Café & Bar
Pohjoisesplanadi 29
00100 Helsinki, Finland
Tel. +358 9 5840 9530
Fax. +358 9 5761 1925
e-mail: sales@hotelkamp.fi

Kamp cafe Helsinki Finland

Fazer Café, Helsinki Finland

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland

Fazer café is the Finnish equivalent of an afternoon tea salon. Started by Karl Fazer (pronounced “Fahtzer”) in 1891, it is said to be the place where “the female population of the city would spend time, taking certain pleasure in using up the last pennies of their fathers, brothers, fiancees and admirers for indulging in huge amounts of sweet delicacies” and indeed looking around there are ladies lunching on salads, sandwiches or divine little cakes and chocolates. Beautifully merchandised, the windows beckon with tantalising colours and delicate morsels. When we had walked past on the Sunday when they were closed, I practically drooled in front of the window so the next day a plan was made to come here. And if anyone should derail these plans, they will incur my wrath!

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland

The shop is broken down into two areas, on the left are the cakes and savouries and on the right are the chocolates and jellies. There is an area towards the rear of each in which to eat. It reminds my sister of the Wolseley although curiously they have self service which is apparently quite a Scandinavian thing. You take a tray, select your food from behind the glass cabinet and they pass the food to you and you then pay at the front, much like the nicest cafeteria you’ll ever come across. My sister and I select some open face sandwiches to share and my husband chooses to partake in the lunch soup buffet €8 for a choice of three soups: a vegetable one, a meat soup and a seafood soup with bread and butter. There are also a selection of salads and of course the gorgeous cakes to choose from.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland

We choose a Russian open faced sandwich with fish paste and eggs €8.20 (Voileipa Sill ala Russia), a chicken sandwich €7.30 (Resissumies Kana) and a prawn and egg sandwich €7.70 (Voileipa Katkarapu).

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland russian sandwich

Voileipa Sill ala Russia €8.20
The Voileipa Sill ala Russia is fairly bland and needs a little salt and pepper. It’s certainly creamy and piled high with toppings though and tastes mostly of eggs.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland chicken sandwich

Resissumies Kana €7.30
The Resissumies Kana E7.30 is delicious, the chicken moist and sweet and the topping perfectly balanced. It’s my favourite of the lot although it sounded less exotic.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland prawn sandwich

Voileipa Katkarapu €7.70
The Voileipa Katkarapu is packed with small fresh prawns which sit on top of a cloud of thousand island dressing. It’s piled high with prawns and great value.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland meat soup

Meat soup (part of soup buffet) €8

I try some of my husband’s soups, the vegetable one is a creamy potato and leek soup, the meat one is particularly good with halved meatballs amongst vegetables whilst the seafood is a little disappointing, tasting mostly of celery and carrot with some tiny prawns scattered throughout it.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland Berry cake

Berry cake €5.40

Savouries savoured, we move onto the sweets. I choose the perfect dome of berries with the delicate sprig of gold leaf redcurrants on top. I also select a slice of traditional Finnish caramel cake and a section of apple slice and a sweet roll to takeaway for our drive to the countryside.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland berry cake

The Berry cake is divine, filled with white chocolate with a sweet berry jam centre it is the perfect level of sweetness. The fine covering of sweet jellied berry is divine against the rich white chocolate centre. It is topped with redcurrants flecked with gold leaf. Simple perfection.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland Caramel cake

Traditional Finnish Caramel Cake €5.30

The Finnish caramel cake is coated in a thick icing of caramel, the centre sponge slices filled with caramel too. The sponge itself is a bit dry and tastes a little stale but the caramel helps somewhat.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland Apple Slice

Reinen Omenapiirakka €3.20

Later we try the apple slice, it’s fairly light on apples but tastes richly of custard powder.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland sugar bun

Voisilmapulla €2.50
The sweet roll is topped with a sweet cheese and sugar and then baked to produce a crispy sugar crust. It is also strongly flavoured with cardamom which gives it an interesting touch.

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finlandt

On our drive to the Finnish country home, I lie back and think of the other cakes that I didn’t try. Yes I will be back for them…

Fazer cafe Helsinki Finland

Fazer Café

Kluuvikatu 3, 00100 Helsinki
Tel +358 20 729 6702 Fax +358 20 729 6700
E-mail: fazer.cafe@fazer.fi
http://www.ravintolaopas.net/fazerkluuvi
Mon-Fri 7:30-22, Sat 09-22