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Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road restaurant, London

Posted in Cheap Thrills, Eating, NQN's most memorable moments and meals, Outside of Sydney

Gordon Ramsay once said that his Royal Hospital Road is his pride and joy, if all goes bottoms up then he always has that baby. Only open Monday to Friday it’s also the hardest place to get a table, and at up to £120 a meal for just lunch, the costliest of his restaurants. To secure a coveted table one needs to ring exactly one month in advance, and to secure the table give them your credit card details and should you not show, they can at their discretion, deduct £100 per person for the meal missed. It’s all phrased very courteously but you get the feeling that they wouldn’t hesitate in doing so.

Dear sister of NQN,

Firstly let me thank you for your interest in Restaurant Gordon Ramsay.

I am pleased to confirm your table reservation at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, located at 68 Royal Hospital Road, London, SW3 4HP as follows:

Where guests wish to make a reservation, it is the restaurant’s policy to secure the booking with their credit card details. In the event that the booking is cancelled in whole or in part by you with less than 24 hours notice or results in a no-show it will be at the discretion of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay to charge £100 per person to your credit card.
We are sorry that this has become a requirement but, regrettably, our experience dictates this precaution. We would be grateful if you could indicate your acceptance by completing and returning this form in order to confirm your booking by fax on 020 7592 1213
Email us at: royalhospitalroad@gordonramsay.com. Unfortunately, we will have to release the table if we have not received the completed form within 48 hours.As we will call you a day before to reconfirm, may I ask you for a contact number where we will be able to reach you on the working day prior to your reservation. Cancellations must be made in writing and sent by fax to 020 7592 1213 or by e-mail to royalhospitalroad@gordonramsay.com

Verbal cancellations cannot be accepted.
We very much look forward to welcoming you at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay.
On Behalf of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay

Picture in menu

The night before, we were left a rather firm sounding voicemail that we were expected at a certain time. The outside of the restaurant is understated elegance, with a simple plaque outside the door and a simple white building as befits the upmarket Chelsea area it resides in. Walking through the corridor there is a small area for guests to wait which also has many copies of his 3 Star chef book for those to read. There is no waiting though as service is brisk, they know who we are and lead us to our table. As it’s earlyish (12.30pm) the dining room room is about half full but within half an hour, all tables are full of diners.

The menu (excuse the fingerprints!)

The manager Jean-Claude Breton is a smoothie, reminiscent a little of Jerry Orbach. He asks us who is “hosting” the table to which we reply “Umm no-one”. Ahh ok not a problem, he smiles and hands us all menus. My sister and I don’t have prices on our menu but my husband has prices in his which is a first. It’s a nice touch if someone is hosting the table so that other guests feel more comfortable ordering without keeping watch of the price.

On the first pages are the a la carte menu featuring ravioli or lobster, langoustine and salmon poached in a light bisque with a lemongrass and chervil veloute as well as slow braised pied de cochon pressed then pan fried with ham knuckle, poached quail’s egg and hollandaise sauce as well as other fantastic sounding dishes. These can be had for £120. There is also following a menu Prestige or a tasting menu made up of 7 smaller dishes for £90. Then there is the Menu of the day, with 3 courses for £45.

Bread with salted and unsalted butter

We order a bit of everything from the Menu of the Day so that everyone can taste all of the dishes. Whilst we are waiting we receive salted and unsalted butter and are asked if we would like olive, white or brown sourdough bread. The olive is my husband’s favourite whilst the white sourdough thickly slathered with salted butter is my sister’s and mine. The service from the staff is wonderful, quiet and unobtrusive but anticipatory of your needs.

Amuse Bouche: vine riped tomato consomme

An amuse bouche arrives, a tomato consomme flavoured with coriander. It’s poured at the table and is intensively sweet with ripe tomatoes.

Quail and wild mushroom pithivier with confit leg and celeriac remoulade

25 comments | September 8, 2008 - 8:00 am | Not Quite Nigella

Peyton & Byrne cupcakes-a very British Bakery

Posted in Eating, Outside of Sydney, Uncategorized

Even when traveling I find comfort in being able to prepare a meal. For me, cooking all afternoon in a kitchen unfamiliar to me is not a tiresome task, it’s quite exciting, particularly when I have fantastic or different ingredients to work with. So we hosted a dinner party for my sister’s friends and I received a fabulous hostess gift, an absolutely tailored to me gift of a box of 5 delicious cucpakes. I was so excited when I saw the logo’d box, obviously a lot of care had gone into choosing the gift and I was very chuffed.

So with a knife handy I managed to sample each of these adorable cupcakes (I didn’t eat all 5 myself although I wanted to).

The vanilla cupcake with vivid pink icing streaked with a fruit gelee streak is delicious. The cupcake is a plain vanilla buttercake but the icing, my oh my! I forgot my low sugar resolve readily-it was gorgeous.

The one with a hazelnut on top is a chocolate hazelnut cake, a little drier than the others, perhaps that’s the point of it. it’s like a hazelnut chocolate macaron in a cupcake form.

The yellow cupcake with the sprinkles was my favourite along with the raspberry icing’d cupcake, the lemon flavour perfectly balanced for sweetness and tang.

The raspberry and flaked coconut one is thick with cream cheese icing on top of a vanilla cupcake. It’s very much like the Frou Frou cupcake I’ve made in the past.

The chocolate mud is good and thick and studded with chocolate.

Full of sugar, unlike children, it makes us soothed and calmed and happy.

Peyton & Byrne at Heals

196 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7LQ
T 020 7580 3451
E info@peytonandbyrne.com

OR
Peyton and Byrne
at The Wellcome Collection,
183 Euston Road,
London NW1 2BE
T 020 7 611 2138
E info@peytonandbyrne.com

Mon -Wed 8am - 6pm
Thu 8am - 8pm
Fri 8am - 6.30pm
Sat 9.30am - 6pm
Sun 12pm - 6pm

http://www.peytonandbyrne.com/index.asp

12 comments | September 6, 2008 - 8:00 am | Not Quite Nigella

Middle Eastern Blood Orange Cake

Posted in Cooking and Recipes, Sweet things

I was once invited to an associate of my husband’s house for afternoon tea. My husband’s friend set down a huge plate filled with great hulking slices of cakes (bought up from a shop in Melbourne) and the one that caught my eye was a fragrant orange cake. I figured the man of the house was a little clueless as men usually tend to be around cakes and tea as there was no fork or knife around and I only wanted a small slice (I usually start small in case I don’t like it as I feel rude not finished things). As I didn’t know them very well I didn’t want to interrupt the fascinating sailing conversation that was going on between the menfolk (ok sarcasm there) so I kept quiet and transported the huge hunk of cake onto my plate.

And once I lifted the slice to my lips, I was so sweetly rewarded in the most wonderful way. The cake was incredibly soft, cool and damp inside and sweet and heady with zest.

Of course when his wife sat down, out came the forks and knives and proper instruments but did I give up my slice or offer a taste to anyone? Absolutely not. I was shamelessly and unrepentantly greedy that day. And ever since I tried that cake, I sought a recipe for it, making orange cake after orange cake, ones with syrup, ones claiming to be the moistest Orange cake, hoping to replicate that cool, sweet fragrance. And when I finally found it several years ago, I became ecstatic. I should have known that the moistness was due to the exclusion of flour and the inclusion of almond meal.

I don’t remember which cookbook I got this from, although I do know that the printout I have attributes this recipe to Claudia Roden. She used regular Oranges rather than Blood Oranges but I have a stash of Blood Oranges at the moment and couldn’t wait to use them. They are in season for a shortish time, although they are now being imported, and I have seen them around a lot lately at a very reasonable price so if you do see some, grab them. They make a fantastic juice (but the juice must be drunk straight after juicing). Or use it as an excuse to make this divine cake.

29 comments | September 3, 2008 - 8:00 am | Not Quite Nigella

Tapas Brindisa at Borough Markets, London

Posted in Eating, NQN's most memorable moments and meals, Outside of Sydney

Tapas Brindisa can be intimidating. Intimidating in that it is ALWAYS crowded, no matter what time you go past and that unless you flag down the manager, you’ll stand virtually ignored, a persona non grata. Brindisa doesn’t take reservations and given the roaring trade, it doesn’t need to. Reservations would simply hold up the process. I adore Spanish food and my gut instinct tells that it is taking over the world (or at least my little part of it). And the thing that has my tastebuds drooling is the idea of eating Jamón ibérico de Bellota, the Wagyu of pork where in Spain or Portugal Black Iberian pigs are raised on a diet of acorns and allowed to roam free in oak forests. The ham is then cured for up to 36 months in the fresh mountain air.

We’re back at Tapas Brindisa at dinner time after being the ignored subjects mentioned above at lunch time when people and plates were whizzing past at a furious speed and our presence caused not a single soul to look our way. We didn’t realise that we needed to get the attention of the manager so we stood there for 10 minutes before leaving as we realised that a table would not be forthcoming, not just because of the huge queue of people already waiting.

Tonight, fortified by false courage, I steel myself and approach the manager thinking that I’ll be dismissed but he gives a broad smile and apologises that there aren’t any table available but that one should be in about 45 minutes so we can come back in 30 minutes. We go for a walk around and take a peek at Neal’s Yard (who have a huge shower running in their store, presumably for moisture to aid in the cheesemaking process) and a Paul Smith store nearby before we return 30 minutes later. There isn’t a table yet although the manager tries to get another table outside set up for us. We wait outside as inside is chaos with bodies standing, sitting and waiting while waiters weave through them with plates of delicious Spanish Jamón and tapas.

While waiting, we ask the manager what time is good to come by and he says “5.30pm but once it is 6 o’clock, all of the tables are gone. At lunch, maybe 12noon?”. A friend who has been here previously has said that even 12 o’clock is too late, it’s 11.50am or nothing. Once the clock strikes 12, it’s musical chairs. He offers us all drinks on the house (wine or soft) for the wait which is a welcome and charming gesture. A table magically frees itself a few minutes later and we are sitting with our complimentary drinks (a gigantic bottle of sparkling mineral water, a Coke and a Rosé wine).

The prize, a food porn worthy shot of the Jamón ibérico de Bellota (Pata Negra)

We’ve already perused the menu having done so while waiting and we ask the waiter if any of the Jamón ibérico de Bellota (Pata Negra) is available and he smiles broadly as if we’ve said the magic words and says “Pata Negra?” and we nod enthusiastically. He points us to the “Gran reserva Joselito Ham-hand carved” for £20 which we immediately order. We also order the Regional charcuterie selection: Teruel Serrano ham, loin, chorizo and salchichon with bread and olive oil £10; potato, chorizo and pepper omelette with aioli £4.65; Deep fried Monte Enebro goat’s cheese with orange blossom honey £6.65 and for good measure, some spicy toasted broad beans £1.

Spicy toasted broad beans £1

The first to arrive is the small plate of spicy toasted broad beans, the beans dried and crispy with a liberal sprinkling of spice powder. They’re like good quality chips.

Gran reserva Joselito Ham-hand carved £20

Our prize, the Jamón ibérico de Bellota arrives next, hand carved and arranged on a plate. I’m surprised at how much we get, from what I’ve seen you get 3-4 slices of it in Australia for about $30 but this looks like more. Tasting it, it’s smooth and intensely flavoursome, a bit like a meat jerky but please don’t let that description put you off, it’s much, much better of course. I mean more as a testament to the intensity of the flavour.

Regional charcuterie selection: Teruel Serrano ham, loin, chorizo and salchichon with bread and olive oil £10

Our regional selection plate is certainly impressive and causes passing pedestrians to almost bump into each other and drool over our table. There is loin (the pale slices), chorizo (thinly sliced rounds), salchichon (another speckled sausage) and Serrano ham, the paler version of the Jamón ibérico de Bellota.

7 comments | August 29, 2008 - 8:00 am | Not Quite Nigella

Persian Love cupcakes

Posted in Cooking and Recipes, Sweet things

If the name doesn’t sound dreamy enough, perhaps the look of these delicate frosted rose petaled cupcakes will convince you to make them. The cakes themselves are light as air, much like an unusual flavoured Angel food cupcake. It’s a simple-ish, light cake - specifically lemon with a cardamom pop in almost every bite. If you prefer your cupcakes, a little milder tasting you could certainly halve the amount of cardamom and crush them to disperse the flavour a bit more rather than having a concentrated pop when you bite into a seed.

The cake part is not overly sweet and barely contains any oils or butters and would be perfect with a cup of tea (I’d think coffee might overwhelm it). I found that this recipe made about 9 1/2 cupcakes but you may find it makes a round dozen if you have slightly smaller cases. And whilst you can technically eat the rose petals, I can’t say that I relished the petal I tasted. One thing to note that is if you refrigerate the cupcakes with petals atop, they will become “wet” and lose their fabulous glacial beauty so if you need to refrigerate them, add the petals on before serving. And it goes without saying that with this name it is best served to your loved one or your wannabe loved one in lieu of a piece of poetry.